Transom

Getting there... Just sorting linkages and the alloy braces between bodies today I have jigsawed a curve in my wooden bonnet guide now so a little more room Thinkin just an alloy box for air intake with two hoses running to pods behind each headlight for cold air feed Can get lower without those rubber BMW joiners on top too Very tight clearance between the back itbs and the throttle arms And the whole v6 everything is staggered is interesting to work around

Got inlet manifolds back from local alloy wizards Machined the manifolds short as possible and flat Sized alloy tubing to squash to oval to match the inlet ports Squashed cut welded Needs just a bit of trim to level up the top ends and dremel porting to smooth it in for flow And this shows how much room i dont have to make an airbox ...

Venturi effect to pull vacuum from the rocker cover pcv ? Seems like a harder solution but certainly an out of the box idea

Engine swap cert question Pcv valve and plumbing is needed from what I have read Can I run rocker cover Pcv valve hose into a non vented catch can and then into aircleaner? Or does it have to be plumbed into the inlet manifold? Thanks

More slow slow progress Trimmed the adaptor plate down to final size (2.5kg) and painted it to stop rust and pretend its alloy Started making the starter motor plate Chopped up a sump to start on making one of those to fit Manual steering rack arrived and gasket set and 36-1 crank pulley on their way cheap via Amazon and Youshop

Yup from reading his story it seems like the Camira dash was the beginning of the end from kitcar to corporate fuckup Also seems like our OPs car is one of the finest made and the creator even bought it for his daughter at some point More photos of your awesome and rare piece of nz oldschool motoring history please

Very cool Now about 1/2 way thru reading this very cool old Sharn by the heron creator http://heroncars.co.nz/template.php?p=content_articles_rossbaker1

Fuck yes Show us more please Especially the skoda parts

Most places that do powder coating have a dip strip tank? Surely one of those in the naki?

Run some solid struts for a week instead of the rear shocks Then see if you still wanna cut it Hard tail with sprung seat and fat 16" rear tyre with not much pressure and my kidneys still hate me decades later Sure it can be certed if done well There may even be off the shelf hard tail frames for that engine somewhere

Scored a set and a 1/2 of ITBs from BMW K100 4 cylinder motorbike They run the injector direct into the head separate from the throttle body so are pretty much just butterflys in a throat and used on K75 3 cylinder so very modular design Also very short height so that will help with bonnet clearance issues Plan is to use the stock V6 manifold cut down with the stock injector ports injectors and fuel rails and add some alloy tube to mount the ITBs with silicon joiners

Good plan You can see the snow while having a wine and be glad you are not trying to drive in it

Yes west is best driving roads Avoid Arthur's and Lewis pass for the next few days it's looking shitty and white Unless your Aston mondeo is good at snowploughing ?

Totally fill to overflow as you screw the top on And cycle the damper rod first to get rid of the air bubbles Used to add a welded on nut and bleed screw on old triumph rear shocks to make them rebuild able easier Other way is to assemble them in a tub of fluid

Control arm bushes? Rockauto.com have them listed under American Motors 1965 classic

And dropped back into engine bay to check measure clearances etc [/url] next missions are plate adaptor for starter motor engine mounts sump chop new clutch ...

Slow progress Picked up another v6 cheap for bits looks clean has plenty of parts for spares as i experiment with bodging Visited Alex and Hannah and looked at their awesome shed and mighty v6 viva for inspiration Countersunk the holes for adaptor to engine bolts csk allen screws in m12x1.5 are not cheap Shoulda not drilled the 2 bottom holes so much and tapped them for for stock bolts thru from the front woulda saved $ Cheap tardme countersink bits were great cut mild steel so clean and easy cut a slice off the starter motor mounting to get it to match up to flywheel - dont grind alloy at home kids its dangerous ended up being a nogo on using rx7 starter - pinion way too small to match up so its steel plate for here and use the v6 starter even bought a new rx7 starter too keen ... 1 step forward 2 steps back started looking at hose routing lost most of the ugly mass of hoses off the v6 lower rad hose routes to rear of block in the valley flipped the thermostat housing to route heater hoses towards car heater and lower rad hose to drivers side where mx5 rad inlet is removed a big ugly hose tee and blocked it with a frost plug

Microsquirt looks better and cheaper for a bike application if you can source your own throttle body and injector setup Been looking at getting rid of the evil BMW motronic ecu on my 650 single and microsquirt looks easy as

I hope that was the " how not to "repair a spark plug thread video Wonder what the instructions really said ?

^^^ there we go cert ninja answered while I was thumb typing

Last time I got a cert way back it was 3 hard stops from 100km with a portable deaccellerometer thingy sitting on the floor Same as they used to use for truck cof before the days of brake rollers Ask your friendly local cert guy Boosted at least has to be good What PCD/size are your wheels?

Awesome sounding v6 s And they sound even better running ITBs The yanks on probetalk boost the hell out of these Currently wrecking a cronos same shape if you need any odd bits cheap as

Yup spigot bearing is farked but still turns and Whole clutch kit is on the way so I can get that buttoned up and start on engine mounts and chopping up the sump Intake manifold ideas are now making my head hurt

Eyeometry and sheer luck mostly Motor sitting on it's nose so no load any direction Rx7 bell is shorter than mx5 so the input shaft pokes out about 12mm Already knew one bolt hole lined up to the motor from yoeddys viva build So drop box onto adaptor and into spigot drop bolt in - wiggle the box so there is no side loading - check input shaft turns freely Clamp down mark and drill other bell housing bolt holes Adaptor plate sits over motor dowels Have a couple of blind holes in bell so I will add dowels to adaptor too Backwoods bastard bodging really but workin with what I have access to here in the Styx

Much cutting grinding hacksawing grinding and drilling and tapping later 12mm holes thru to block need countersunk for flat countersunk allen screws - one main bolt shown goes right thru bellhousing to block - that and the input shaft into spigot what i have lined it all up on Threads tapped 10mm for bellhousing to adaptor bolts - still needs more trimmed off this side - hole visible was a tester for drill and tap sizing