Transom

This is relevant to my interests someone please lay down the specs so we don't have to google or use Saturday night brain cells thanks

The big hole gets filled with a starter motor ... but yes does look odd in photo

Manual only shows adjustment at the pedal / assumes all components are stock ... does not apply in my case

All good ... you are pointing me in the right direction this is with the pushrod pulled right back in slave pressure plate contact is about 5mm forward from that with a worn driven plate - have new to go in so should be ok on snout length at full wear Workshop manual clutch adjustment instructions were no help cos motor swap and adapter plate/ different bellhousing / nothing standard at least I can now bolt all the new clutch in and throw it back in the car for a bleed and a look thru the starter hole while someone pushes pedal thanks for input

Engine side - push cylinder -pivot arm on ball to forward motion at release bearing

Cheers ... managed to find some googles on aftermarket clutches and release arm angles and free play at pressure plate as well will carefully throw it together with some measuring give it a bleed and see what I can see thru the starter hole

Silly clutch questions Release bearing should just against pressure plate at rest (clutch out ) ? how far should the pushrods be into the slave cylinder ? Push cylinder Mazda rx/mx/5/6 bits have a few lengths of pushrods here or can it be adjusted by shimming the pivot ball? Also ..... should the release bearing be almost at the end of the gearbox input snout it slides on (will slide partly off when clutch is pushed ...) ? Thanks never done a Frankenclutch before ...

Look suspiciously like something that was in the Mazda cronos I wrecked got time for a pick a part / wreckers run in the morning ?

Thanks it seems a common mod in merica when fitting polybushes but yeah the suspension arms are pretty thin pressed steel so I think I will avoid it

Would drilling 6mm holes for grease zerks/nipples to lube polybushes into pressed steel suspension arms be ok for cert ? Or is that a Nono?

Progress report ... still avoiding wiring ... scored some better carpet and installed a set of PRD frame rail braces while the interior is gutted to cover my bashed in frame rails and installed some Chynamatt sound and heat insulation no rust in the floor was a bonus

Last one I did needed an lpg installation tag - was 30$ from someone who popped the bonnet and looked at reg and tank test marks said yup 30 here's the tag with make of reg rivet that on yourself Then lpg wof then wof assuming it's all good and passes sniffer test etc

And the only Motorsport event on the coast is this weekend I always forget til it's almost on and it's hardly advertised should try to get an os coast trip for nelson and chch team for next years hillclimb great driving roads may even be night runs on the hill by the local "drift kids"

Cool was gonna suggest that for a meet sometime usually a few escorts and Rota's at the hillclimb what you driving I will be going for a look if I remember on Saturday or if you need anything I'm in Westport

Is megajolt cheap somewhere ? When I looked at ignition only systems they were more expensive than fuel and ignition megasquirt is this a job for speeduino ? Or can you just rig 2 x cdi units onto it ?

Have a look in here if you have not read it And these guys seem best pricing and reputable /helpful to deal with rather than a random on eBay https://www.diyautotune.com/

Fuck it ... removed eeeeverything back to the switches and light plugs cmon Mazda we know you were improving the classic British roadster but you could have not copied the Lucas parts oh well engine bay will be tidier

Wiring nightmares ... removed everything I didn't need and maybe too much Mazda seemed to make every part of the harness run thru every part of the car and back again ... all I have working at the moment is headlights indicators and heater fan ... popup headlights no go no tail or park lights very tempted to just remove everything completely and just keep the tail loom and start from scratch with a universal fuse/relay box bright spark ideas anyone ?

Nice saw that middle pic earlier today as a name this machine quiz

No dizzy on the au so they put they coil pack under the manifold instead ... sounds like fuel problem if it comes right and runs clean after a drive coil /lead problems usually get worse when hot ... I vote for random fuel supply / intermittent earth problem

It's called citric acid at the supermarket usually next to the tartaric acid and baking powder and spices and stuff

Yep works very well ... do that shit outside it is nasty evil toxic stuff don't leave too long or it etches back into the alloy then starts eating it used it lots on rc and bike stuff only ever found one shade of blue it would not shift at all / may have not been anodised /some other coating

Check they didn't call the Suzuki alto something different in the USA they also list cars by the year they got them not by the years they were made

Some interesting reading there really liked their eat shit and die section at the bottom https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/eatshit.htm

Yup use citric acid from supermarket for cooling system flush cos all the branded rad flush s have... active ingredient -citric acid ...