Moffmo

Fuckers getting sold!

https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1730716180&ed=true

I love my Pajero 3.0l v6 off road. It's handled everything I've thrown at it and its a very capable machine.

Onroad? Its a shit car. Needs a new steering box soon and could probably do with a front suspension rebuild. lol. Drinks Oil and fuel. Has a lot of creaks and tapping noises which are "normal" apparantly.

I suppose i'm telling you not to buy a Pajero if you want it to be cheap running.

As a side note. Do people perfer manual or auto for off roading? I perfer manual as i feel more in control and got better engine braking coming down the hills. The only thing is I get really scared when crossing water in case I start to stall and panic and depress the clutch. which has never happened thankfully.

Keen

Sweet thanks.

Yeah and it matches the old plate that's on car jam.

Hi. Has anyone experienced a revin process when a motorbike is a different color to its original plates color? Anything to worry about?

41 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

It came with the rest of the set. You don't want to be fucking around with metric tools while working on an imperial.car.  

I have to agree so much with this. 19mm may just about fit but having a proper socket or spanner makes the world of difference when you're trying to undo something that's super tight!! 

You'll get some stick for having a GN.. But I think they are a great bike to start with. Very simple and not enough power to get yourself into too much trouble... Japanese made too!

That was an awesome meet. Walked away feeling rich with love and materialistic warmth 

DIESEL POWA WOOOO WHHHAA WHOOOO WHAAA HWOOOO WHHAAAA

SMACK MY BITCH UP! BOOOO BOOO BOOO

Project "Remove Motor from Beavers car" day coming up soon then? 

I miss my motorbike

I can walk if the traffic is that gridlocked from owhiro bay to Princess bay lol

Think I'm in.

Holy shit. Was it the entire office that got drench or just parts of it?

Do you work for Transpower or the company cleaning it up? lol.

1 hour ago, Beaver said:

Yeh that’s what told me it’s closed (DOC)

Sorry mate didn't see your post in my excitement. 

That roads been closed for ages now then! 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/H3cYJCHk7X8tf0IE2

Waiohine gorge is fucking lush. Awesome drive to it too. Just go on DOC to see if its open though.

Ahhh Transpower

4 minutes ago, Nominal said:

If the ignition timing is out (too retarded) then you will get overheating. Also lean mixture can be a problem.

It seems you have looked at most of the usual things with the cooling system, so checking the tune would be adviseable.

Do you get detonation/what's the compression? In my 186 I have to run 95 fuel and even then have the timing backed off (retarded) a bit to stop it pinging.

Had the ignition timing checked out by a timing light, mind you this was ages ago.

Unfortunely I am the wrong person to tell you if its pinging etc. Do you have any recommendations who to go to to get the fueling/timing checked etc? I do have a weber 32/36 which I am about to send to Weber specialist to get jetted/tuned and for the manifold to get a water jacket etc but I doubt i'll get to fit it before xmas as its bigger and probably needs modification to the engine bay lol.

4 minutes ago, Mof said:

Now I am confused, that picture isn't your van 

LOL. Are you on about the picture at the top of this thread.. Cos yeah that isn't my van at all!

2 minutes ago, Mof said:

So in your build thread, the link to this discussion thread has a picture of the engine/hoses/radiator that I can't seem to find in either threads to have a proper look. But what I'm getting at is

The top radiator hose looks like it goes up from the thermostat housing outlet, then down to the radiator. Making a high spot that will make an airlock. When you fill it have you/you need to bend the hose down at the thermostat end and work your way along the hose to the radiator end to work the air out. Top up and repeat until all the air is out.

If it's just the angle I'm looking at it, and the hose is actually uphill to the radiator, then please disregard. 

Yeah. It goes up from thermostat to the radiator. It probably used to be the other way round, (so there are probably pictures of both!) but since manu put the shroud on, he lifted the rad about 3" at a guess.

I got told it always ran hot which it did but it never actually overheated to the pump it steamed... but then it got worst after I/we replaced the timing gear so I obviously have fucked something.

Since then I have

Had radiator rodded.

Changed Thermostat

Changed Water Pump

Manu added shroud/fan (which it always needed as I didn't get much airflow going up hills)

New pipes.

Needless to say I'm at my wits end and if I don't sort it out before xmas I've just wasted alot of money as I won't get to go away in it.

Tested in some boiling water and it opened. Can see water moving when it gets to temp when rad cap is off.

I have gutted a thermostat which I will put in and take for a drive and see if makes a difference.

Will try the pop bottle test!

Also reading about making the radiator a triple pass design may be a good way to go...

Will need to get one of those guns and actually measure how much it's reducing the temp right now.

16 minutes ago, Nominal said:

What are you main radiator hoses like? Is there a spring in the bottom hose? It is possible that these can 'close up' under the pump suction.

Thanks for the articles. Will have a read through.

Main hoses are all good and brand new. Bottom hose doesn't need a spring as its pretty much metal corners that manu fabricated to get the hose to fit in. haha. 

In a nutshell it seems that the radiator is doing it's job up to a certain point and then it just can't cope anymore.

BTW I have been flushing the system so currently has rad flush and water in the system (no coolant). Would the higher boiling point of the coolant help in this regard? (I think that heat is heat and even if it was coolant it would still be running too hot?)