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Lord Gruntfuttock

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Everything posted by Lord Gruntfuttock

  1. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Found a zx spectrum, small telly and box of game tapes at the in-laws. Got no tape player to try them out yet though...
  2. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Very small effort over the weekend. After looking at marine ply and HDME options I cut some transom plates out of scrap builders ply, cos I'm cheap and had it in the shed... And just decided to paint them with epoxy to see how it goes. Drilled holes oversize and put tape underneath so they filled with resin, will flip over and do other side when set. Hopefully when I drill the holes out smaller they'll be properly waterproofed... And discovered holes in the boat aren't anywhere near true, just randomly installed so one drilling was really close to the edge of the internal plate. I shifted it inwards on my plates and will fill/drill new one in the rear of the dinghy. Beats me how someone can drill visible holes without lining things up...
  3. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Worked over the weekend, but did some foraging for bits amongst the junk at home (after seeing the stupid prices on trademe for vintage bits). Pulled this ratty seat off an old Raleigh in the shed... And looked like it would suit the 70s? vinyl Brooks cover I scored for $10 on the tard some time ago... Sweet... And on the spare Ali seat post I bought for my Raleigh Twenty, was too short for that but perfect for this... After I cleaned up the hub I found some other bits I had squirreled away for just such a project, thought I had a shift lever somewhere, glad I didn't buy another one... Still need some pedals and a carrier, but things coming together... [Edit] Found a couple of carriers on donor bikes I could use, and have ordered these... MKS for $19US. Far better than the junk ones I've seen elsewhere, and should look great in white with that seat...
  4. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Had more 'sea trials' in the wheely bin on Saturday, in the pissy rain, after a lunchtime pint down the pub. It may have been the beers but mate is super keen for maiden voyage... Ran it for around 40 mins all up, trying out different carb taper needle screw levels. It runs really well on full noise but struggles at lower throttle settings, backfires and stops. Thought it was too lean as it would run with the choke 3/4 on at around half throttle, so raised the screw flush and it went slightly better, but raising it any further didn't help. Really not sure how these are supposed to run, and if it comes down to it can just mang it at full tit I suppose (speed trolling for fast trout)... Plug looks like this, I'd be really happy if this was a bike, but thought a 2-smoker at 10:1 would run a darker colour? Would have run it longer but doesn't always flow water through in the bin (think it sucks a lot of air with prop going) and was scared of cooking it. Gave me some confidence though that it runs for a while and starts from hot, now need to glass up the boat...
  5. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Get it's big brother... 1966 Austin Princess HL Vanden Plas 4l R https://www.trademe.co.nz/2396193685
  6. Lord Gruntfuttock
    looks like it...
  7. Lord Gruntfuttock
    So looks like a win...
  8. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Did an inventory of bits in the shed yesterday. Got a new set of Sun Ringle CR18 26 x 1 3/4" alloy rims looking for a home... And a 1972 Sturmey Archer AW 3-spd hub that looks ok... And some packages arrived today, batteries from Dunedin... Think these are pretty good spec, Panasonic 3200mAh...? And most exciting, hub motor has arrived, 11 days from order, pretty sweet... Except, it's bloody 48V. Checked and def ordered 36V. Wouldn't be a major but I've ordered BMS, batteries, battery holder system and charger all for 36V configuration. Have notified Mr Ali, will see how we get on (could be a win, could be a PIA)... It came with this fitting from motor (3 power and 6 Hall effect connectors?) guessing there's a socket to suit, don't think the cable included fits, only had a quick look. [edit, yep has appropriate connector, was looking at wrong end)... Good thing is I can measure up hub for spokes, looks like 5mm wide flanges, 42.5mm apart, 119mm flange diameter (haven't looked at any offset yet). The Sturmey AW is 65mm flange diameter and 27mm from centre to each side. So until I hear back from Ali I guess I can order spokes and look at controllers...
  9. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Ha, yep the Aparima is our intended destination. Initial journey won't be family spec. Can't think of anything that could go wrong with a couple of deros on a seagull-powered dinghy, but made a detailed map for search and rescue just in case...
  10. Lord Gruntfuttock
    That low compression test (around 55 lbs) has been bothering me, but I realise now it was probably done with the throttle closed, and with a dry bore, so might be better than that? Just done some research however, and Barry-forum-consensus indicates it's probably ok on these wonderful machines... "The Century and Silver Century, Model 102, from new 55psi, but they work well down to only 35psi, amazing!" "The best Century or Silver Century I've seen has about 72 psi, I'm happy if I find one that is 60 cold and dry. They seem to run well at 50 psi and I've seen them run with 35 psi." "Most Centuries and Silver Centuries I come across show compression numbers of 50- 65 psi by my gauge, my best one being 72 psi. The worst I've measured was 35 psi." So that's good, might run another test on weekend to confirm, and also raise the needle a little to richen it up to see if that reduces backfiring, think it's a couple of turns below flush...
  11. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Yep we've got a place at Riverton so plan is to try it out there. Two rivers converge at the mouth (Pourakino and Aparima) so want to chuff up the Pourakino for a look (the one on the left). Being tidal you get dolphins chasing mullet up past the bridge, and target is big silver sea-run trout full of whitebait... Plus if I go upstream I can merrily float back down to the pub when it conks out (in a film of rainbow coloured water)...
  12. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Parts arrived yesterday from the UK so I'll be able to assemble the mounting bracket properly. But time to look at my pleasure craft dinghy. Transom was obviously rotted out... And I couldn't figure out what was filling the gap between the two wooden sections, was bog... So unbolted/pried it apart, quite a few slaters living in it... and seemed to be stuck on with a gallon of silicon... But cleaned up looks ok. And all under the edge of the boat (the gunwale?) any cracks had been 'repaired' by screwing lumps of wood to it. All rotten AF now... So fair bit of fibreglass repair work to do but basically sound. I may look at using HDPE plastic as a replacement transom board to avoid painting/epoxy coating marine ply, will see how cost effective it is...
  13. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Good info, cheers. I'm flying blind here, just bunging things together to see how it goes...
  14. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Aaand just bought 30 x Panasonic 3000mAh batts on tardme for $100. Apparently in new condition, tested etc. Will see how they go...
  15. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Don't see why not, as long as correct voltage motor. I even looked at using my DeWalt tool batteries... There's a few calculators out there, this is a screenshot of electricbikesimulator.com.
  16. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Hard to say. Depends on the 18650 cells. The 10S gives me 36V, but only have 3 in parallel so if I have 2600mAh cells that'll give me 7.8Ah. 3400mAh cells would give 10.2Ah. I don't know what the 350W rating actually means (constant, peak?) but assuming face value figures, it will draw around 10A at full noise, so should run for around an hr at that. Real world figures will be far different I expect... Of course more batteries is better, but there are huge cost, size and weight considerations. 48V may have been a better option too, I just went for something not too bulky I can hopefully conceal in a saddlebag or similar. And the no-solder battery pack kit came in that 10S 3P configuration. (I'm fine with soldering but apparently it can damage the cells and spot welding is better)... If I had access to unlimited cells and a spot welder I would look at different methods...
  17. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Yeah compatability was an issue I was concerned about. Will look into supplier, cheers...
  18. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Background I've been intrigued by the idea of electrifying an old bicycle for a while, possibly as a test run for doing an electric hub classic scooter. No real plans but interested in the concept so started squirreling bits away. I don't want a balls out speed machine, nor a boomer spec mild pedal assist, so went mid range 350W geared front hub motor, easy to install, small enough to be relatively unobtrusive (130mm diameter) but big enough to pull you along around 30km/h for an hr or so. Grabbed this one on Ali 11.11 sale and it's on the way (36V 350W - $177 delivered)... Originally wanted to do my Raleigh Twenty, but spent so much on the oddball rims and spokes I'd prefer to keep it as is... Also looked at doing my Czech folding Eska bike, but those wheels are even smaller and low top speed may be an issue... Then I saw this one online, and realised how wrong smaller ebikes can look (granted it has a bigger direct drive hub), but still super dorky... so now looking at my old Raleigh/BSA full size jobs, have a few hanging in the shed. I like the old Sturmey Archer rear hub so a combo of that and the lectric front wheel seems a good recipe? (Motor hub not much bigger than the dyno-hub they came with as an option). Have to see if motor will fit forks first before making a decision on base vehicle. Like this old BSA Sports though... Came from O'Shea cycles in Ch'ch... I have a couple of suitable SA rear hubs and new alloy rims set aside, and reckon with the patina this thing could look pretty cool with a sympathetic ehub... Power pack Batteries are bulky and expensive and you have to compromise size/weight/cost vs range, so I bought one of these after seeing them in the moped/motorbike electric conversion thread, the Vruzend battery pack - (10S, 3P kit for $44USD) as they look a good way to avoid the solder vs spot weld arguments/faffing about... And the 11.11 sale on Ali encouraged me to order some Polymide tape (kapton), 220mm PVC heatshrink tube, a 10S 36V 15A Li-ion BMS and a 5.5mm nut driver tool, so all up I'm into this around $270 so far... So still need a controller and charger, plus spokes to suit whatever rim I end up using, but have enough to carry on with. Also need batteries, the no-post ruling is a ballache, and at around $10ea in NZ I'm looking at $300+ which is a bit daunting. Might look at scavenging laptop cells or similar, but got some time to look into this... Anyways, long term project but parts ordered, by the time I actually build anything technology will have moved on and this'll be proper OS...
  19. Lord Gruntfuttock
    So @Herbmiester yep I have a spare. Actually looks better than my one so I may swap after cleaning it up. You're welcome to the one I don't use if you want it...
  20. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Would be better with sound...
  21. Lord Gruntfuttock
    All assembled bar a few things that need finishing... Did this first, not sure what it should be but seems low...? But it popped into life on third pull. Was bloody surprised, and shut it down cos was just running in air. Quickly rigged a bucket to get some cooling water through it... And it chucked water everywhere, Bucket obvs not up to task so emptied the old wheely bin I use for scrap and it seemed to be pumping cooling water through ok... Had daughter holding it for that pic, she wasn't keen... Ran ok but had a few backfires after a couple of minutes, and stopped a couple of times. Could have been low on fuel as I only put a little bit in and had used a bit tickling the carb, plus I'm waiting on a plug cap so the connection's only finger tight, and am unsure how it likes running off choke. Really need some sea-trials to see how it's going... And should be able to see where I've been on the water if this residue is any indication... Stoked it ran though. Now I need to fix the boat to put it on...
  22. Lord Gruntfuttock
    3rd pull start. All the 2-stroke goodness. Pics to come..
  23. Lord Gruntfuttock
    And just finished some assembly... And a test spin worried me as no obvious spark. Hooked it up to the drill though and while trying to hold the plug against the block got a decent belt, then after a good spin up it seems to be sparking well, even with a rudimentary points gap setting... And where I left it for the day. Fuel system to go... Got a temporary clamp holding it in place till some bits arrive and still have to fill gearbox and set points/plug gaps, but hopefully not far off a test run...
  24. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Wasn't going to paint the tank, quite liked the honest dents and grime, but when cleaning the inside with meths lots of old paint came off so stripped it back... Was interesting cos my bottle of Tergo strip had congealed. Tried smearing it on as a paste but didn't seem to be working, then brushed on some other stripper. Lotsa smoke and bad fumes so chucked it in a bucket of water outside and wire brushed the gunk off and scuffed it... And hit it with 3 coats of black Durepox. Deliberately left dents... Then looked at bracket setup. I'd bought a new used one as mine had a broken side tab... And after cleaning and tapping new threads where necessary it came out good for another few decades hopefully... Rapt with the new thrust block, came with clamp and chains etc for $10 from Simply Seagulls...
  25. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Think they're the same? Part No 1LN 22110-00 matches. Also have one spare. May have been welded. I'll look it out over weekend and chuck pics on if you want it for cost of postage.
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