Bellicose

4 minutes ago, Muncie said:

True, yeah my mix is just a clear base nothing else apart from the 30g of pigment.

What colour would you recommend under as a base over the primer Black? silver? Its going on a bike frame so ill just keep hosing it on till its even, wanting depth so was going to go dark base with 2-3 clear coats.

Sound right?

Definitely over black. Just use black base coat. You just put the binder/pigment mix on like basecoat, it's easy as.  

29 minutes ago, Muncie said:

Yeah some shit i bought ages ago when i was doing custom painted furniture its an automotive product. I used to do crazy pearl coffee tables and stuff seemed to work well getting particles onto objects.

Probably doing it wrong but its cheap enough to learn with again (been 20 years since ive painted anything other than buildings) 

Im actually a trade qualified vehicle restorer......

Cheers. Yeah i'm a car painter, been in the trade 35 years.

Reason i ask is iv'e seen people put the pigments into already made colours and wondered why their fancy pigments do f all lol. 

37 minutes ago, Muncie said:

Let's shop together on AliExpress with new user coupons
Your NZ$ 1.46 in coupons are here!
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKjLod1

Appears you get a discount... my only advice is upgrade postage or it'll get lost 3rd attempt, bought 3 vials of 10g to give enough for a litre.

Cheers ears. Did you put the pigment in a binder?

22 hours ago, Muncie said:

Playing around with aliexpress pigment $1 a gram to my door .

Link please.

400 for solids, 600 for metallics. Don't use a scotch pad to "sand" anything. I only use a scotch pad when I do blends into other panels, but only after iv'e gone over the blend panel with 1200.

400 wet is closer to 500 dry. I used to do everything 'wet' but now use a Festool dry sander and haven't looked back.  

Only decent way is reversing the process, ie: take to chrome platers.

Have had some parts blasted before put it's kinda luck of the drawer weather they can get it off, chrome is one of the hardest things to blast off.

Sorry mate, I have no other ideas.

I was doing that kinda stuff in oz in the early 90s.

Done a f**k ton of old minitrucks and drag cars in that style.

Long live the 'heartbeat' pinstripe, palm trees and checker boards lol.

21 hours ago, Raizer said:

 

Or a new wave inspired paint scheme lol

 

 

 

Tell me more.

Have painted hundreds. (well probably not hundreds lol)

What's ya plans for it?

Got a X, just bought a Canopy so just need an up now.

Pic' of (cut down) Canopy.

On 10/07/2020 at 18:30, Raizer said:

Still very interested in how the floor paint goes!
Mines flaking off yet again

Also the Mrs is close to starting on her AU50, so am still keen to have a chat about you waving your gun at the tank etc at some stage.

Have had a bit of a play around with different things and will be going with a rubberized coating with body colour over that for the floorboard.

Yeah man no prob'.  

Progress is progress.....

On 29/06/2020 at 23:19, Esky_addict said:

Grabbed this from the rotary thread, anyone know a paint code or name for the Matt green rx2?

Code = cheap ass job........

Looks to be about 3 different colours so which one do you want?

Rims correct way or reversed......hmmmm

On 05/05/2020 at 10:26, TimShadboltfan27 said:

 

 

Is this house in Taupo?

5 hours ago, BlownCorona said:

Damn, so I've almost certainly gone through the clear in a few spots. 

What's the go with prepping the surface for reclear coating? I really really don't want it to peel off in a year or two. 

 

Have you only gone through the clear? If so just flatten with 800 or 1200 then just re-clear the whole panel. Easy as mate.

More bits to the puzzle.

19 hours ago, yetchh said:

 

Ah, this is the info I was after. I have plenty of west systems epoxy but was wondering which one to use 407 or 410. I guess would guess 407 for initial lay down then 410 to finish it off.. Did you just use standard bog prep procedures? What surface did you have under it? 2k, 1k or steel? Soz for all the questions.. I'll be putting it over epotec 408.

 

I just used 407 and put filler primer over that. Haha, i used to use Epotec as my base under the 407 on automotive stuff and it was mint.

Wouldn't mind getting ahold of more 407 but can't justify the cost for the small amounts i'd use tho'.

We used International marine epoxys on the stuff at work because of warranty tho'.

Be sure to mix Epotec absolutely precise with the hardener or it'll stay soft for far to long and cause drama down the line.

When I was doing super yacht stuff I used to use West System 407 microbaloons on cars instead of poly' bog all the time. Worked well.

Little bit of progress. Also tyres ordered.

On 17/04/2020 at 15:05, rumrum said:

any updates ? cheers

Nah man. Waiting on spacers, tyres and me to make up my mind on a colour for the plastics.

If you end up going the way of the vid's just be VERY careful near the panel edges. If you look closely you'll see a "build up" of paint on them. If you try to flat them to much you WILL rub through. It's not so much a "build up" of paint, more a raised area of panel where the skin is deformed when they fold it over the lip when made. 

On 04/04/2020 at 16:11, JustHarry said:

 You can buff 1500 but it's much nicer and quicker to buff 2000/3000 

1200 is easy as.

On 04/04/2020 at 16:14, JustHarry said:

All 2 pack paints clear included need to get up to a pretty high temp like 50 degrease (not totally sure with out looking at data sheets) before they will cure properly.  Time is not good enough.

Nope.

On 04/04/2020 at 17:23, tortron said:

2k hardens by a chemical reaction

It will happen faster with increased temperature. But is not required, it just speeds it up.

Too cold and the solvents won't evaporate from the paint fast enough and give a poor finish

Too hot and you can harden the outer layer and trap solvent inside

 

Takes about a month for a paint job to be truly hardened

On to it.

On 04/04/2020 at 22:46, BlownCorona said:

currently watching this much longer video about the same trick/more info. 

he did say on flatter areas hed stick with the razor. 

he does a good job about making me not feel so shit about getting runs though, "if you dont get a run every now and then, your not trying hard enough or your not putting it on wet enough" 

Pretty much. Although i have many solutions when i get runs, but those two vid's will help ya sort it.

On 04/04/2020 at 10:16, BlownCorona said:

Painted the crown a couple days ago. 

The basecoat went down absolutely perfectly. But when it came to spraying the clear every panel that wasn't horizontal slowly turned to shit. 

Most likly it was technique though I've not had this happen before, who knows. Anyway fairly sizable sags and runs all over it. 

Looking for suggestions on how to cut back the runs properly, there's plenty of info online but it ranges from, just rub it with wet 2000gr and it'll go away to, it's fucked needs a complete respray and if I try rub them out it'll cut into the colour. 

Any input from people with experience? 

Pic's?