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Ashkellybarr

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Everything posted by Ashkellybarr

  1. Ashkellybarr
    Hey OS team helping a mate get his LS1 swap using link g4 in non LS chassis. its 95% done and ready to go but there’s a couple things I’m struggling to get info for. 1. alternator wiring. Google comes up with loads of yanks using truck alternators with different wiring. it’s a two wire from early 2000’s como so I’m assuming one wire just needs a resistor and switched off ign? 2. Injector info, found the injectors are standard ls1 bosch 0 280 155 931 but can’t find dead time info, most US posts guys use random info from bosch part numbers that are similar but not to that specific number. However we’re wanting to setup modeled fuel pretty accurately 3. T56 reverse lock out. Safe to say the lock out is NO without 12v applied? plan to run GPO 12v over defined RPM until we get ABS wired in. But if NO I can get it running and on and off a trailer until I can get the plug and wire it in cheers
  2. Ashkellybarr
    Cheers but I’ll be Plastering and sanding
  3. Ashkellybarr
    There’s a Honda tool on Ali express that can be made to work. Bolts where the cam caps go. been told a small amount of compressed air down the spark plug hole will help hold the values in with the head on too
  4. Ashkellybarr
    Little bit stuck cause getting motor mounts done and plumbing brake and fuel lines is all good and well. However they all run down the inner drivers side chassis rail. unfortunity this leaves bugger all room for exhaust manifold and turbo down pipe incl clearance to meet ver requirements. i have a feeling there’s gonna be a significant amount of time and money spent here. good news though, if I get fuel running to it and finish the ecu wiring there’s no reason I can’t get it started now I’ve got a manifold made
  5. Ashkellybarr
    Cheers. Will pass this onto fabricator
  6. Ashkellybarr
    Alright.. all confessions, the motors not mounted. Just sitting on strops. how ever the Gbox member is done and bolted it, with the box level that’s pretty close to where the motor will sit. unfortunitly the factory mounts on the chassis are waaay to far forward. And actually interfere with the thermostat housing and alternator. after talking to a cert guy and couple other onto it guys I’ve though best to leave it to someone else. Bloke down the rd does nothing but motor sport stuff and said 1/2 to a full days work, so I’ll leave it to him when he’s got time in a couple weeks. in the mean time, I can finish and bleed brakes, install drive shafts, new hard line for clutch slave location. install hi steer kit. and that’ll get it moving. from there it’s: intake manifold fuel system wiring ECU and tuning. Good feeling to make progress
  7. Ashkellybarr
    These different depth mount holes are a real pain in the ass ye old battery lathe saved the day
  8. Ashkellybarr
    What’s the go with welding a plate to the chassis rail as a base to build an engine mount off? whats the guide lines for size and if it maybe must have a fold around the rail so it’s not just welded on one face? i had a look under engine conversion and suspension systems sections but couldnt find anything about the chassis mounts. Factory location On the chassis is to far forward and needs to be removed to clear thermostat and moved PS pump. can see motor mount location in yellow i would be happy with something bolt on but there’s no holes for access inside the frame. So for that I would guess I’d need to drill right through and add crush tubes anyway? edit: sorted.
  9. Ashkellybarr
    As I thought I ended up moving the whole lot forward 35mm witch meant modding the gearbox x member. Might still need the “massage” the firewall for the Ktune coolant neck off the back of the head but nothing to bad. I’ll haft to cut and weld a kink in the shift leavers as the Gear shifter already sat far to close to the head unit. mount will sit a couple mm lower too but worse case I’ll just put some body-chassis spacers in
  10. Ashkellybarr
    Awesome work
  11. Ashkellybarr
    Good visual of height, if I had 35’s I could probably just roll the motor and box straight under the frame. cant wait to get a photo with the turbo on :)
  12. Ashkellybarr
    Can see here how much higher it is after the 4.5” lift. leafs will still settle down a bit after more gets bolted on/in. But with 1” body lift and 35” tires it’ll sit another 3” taller plus the roof basket
  13. Ashkellybarr
    Some of the boys came round to help lift the body back on today. Put all the new bushes on the chassis then used threaded rod to help line it up, boys lifted and the girls pulled the planks out, easy down and it was on!
  14. Ashkellybarr
    Need to get the cab back on before winter kicks in. Picked up a new bush kit. Had my query’s as the crush tube is thin and the big washers only aloe for from an M8 witch I though was a bit on the small side. The thinner crush tubes allow for an M12 witch was better but after talking to one of the engineers at work he said the crush tubes to thin for the torque setting of an M12. So I found some thicker crush tubes laying around work and got some longer M10 cap screws witch I think will work better. Cap screws being tensile too Also made some spacers out of 100m UHMWPE off cuts too witch should help with gearbox and bellhousing clearance
  15. Ashkellybarr
    Here’s the timing chain one https://tractuff.com/products/tractuff-oil-pump-baffle theres some other “drop in” baffles but think I could just reengineer them my self for less. Skip to 4.10 so you don’t need to listen to this turkey but they did a common drop in brand and still had huge issues. https://youtu.be/7GMUaje9G34
  16. Ashkellybarr
    I have seen the bolt in kit (maybe K miata or a lesser known brand) witch bolts to the oil pump to baffle this. Think I would still prefer something that’s sealed around the sump instead. cant remember if it’s left or right turns but there’s some guys in the states on utube with a s14 that had huge issues turning one way on the track. Looked into it more and found a couple others saying the same thing. that and their a tall motor with such a huge head on them so clearance is a factor too limiting sump mods
  17. Ashkellybarr
    Good stuff i take it you stayed 2L and not 2.4 for class restrictions? ill be keen to see what you do for the sump setup as I’ve seen a lot of videos where people have pressure drops on long corners and need to look at this my self
  18. Ashkellybarr
    Yeah fair enough
  19. Ashkellybarr
    The APS that came with me K24 is a box that sits in the engine bay being feed from a normal cable pedal. Means you can put the box anywhere and just get a cable to suit
  20. Ashkellybarr
    Friend had this happen to a fresh built SR he had. Turned out the exhaust cam was off by a tooth so cyl press was building for to long until the valves opened. might not be the issue having two banks but is easy to check
  21. Ashkellybarr
    Happy as! Stripped the diffs and epoxisprayed them. had the bottom U bolt plates acid dipped them epoxi sprayed them too. installed all the new suspension, greaseable shackles and bolts, adjustable drop steering arm and torque arm just need bump stops, and steering rod rack ends. and get some sanding wheels for the drill to take out the build up in the shackle mount tubes thinking with the Honda engine exhaust being on the drivers side I might as well do the fuel and break lines now and swap them to the other side
  22. Ashkellybarr
    I’m running a small alloy tray witch weighs nothing and at most will have a gearbox or engine on it. That the arms always been bent and never worked so I’ll just delete it if I can
  23. Ashkellybarr
    Proportion valve requirement on a old Ute or can I delete it? cheers
  24. Ashkellybarr

    PAINT THREAD

    Ashkellybarr replied to dylan's topic in Tech Talk

    Recommendations for 1.2 or 1.4 gravity feed guns under $100?
  25. Ashkellybarr
    I concur
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