VKzac

Long time no see, or should I say long time no more see? I had been meaning to update, but now this..... I'll keep the news shit and short.... This morning I walked out to head to work, looked up and the Commodore was gone...Yes, you read it right, STOLEN When: Stolen this morning (1/12/15) between the hours of 10pm on the 30th and 5:50 on the 1st Where: Dannemora/ Botany area (East Auckland) Details: Rego - LZ8035 KM'S at the time: 21400xx Distinguishing factors: Tail lights are miss-matched (ones pinstripe, ones not), recently put a big fuck-off alloy radiator in and look hectic VL turbo in disguise. I had only JUST got it back after 6 or so weeks of filming (was being used in a movie and a tv series) so is looking very standard, absolutely extremely fucked off. It's hard to miss, I would really appreciate it if everyone whom reads this could please keep an eye out for it .

Such an amazing build, I hope I get to see it in the flesh one day!

Shifter surround looks mint! Now for myself to track one down....

Id be keen to take the VK along to a shoot! Could chuck it back on the OG wheel + hub caps to look legit! Pretty sure Green TC Is keen too

Hello to all, it's been a while haha Pictureless update/ Problematic update: So my EST light came on whilst driving home from uni, Is idling like a fucking dog, but when driving you don't notice it. I've hear some horrific stories regarding EST (refer to K-trips weed story lol) and does sound bad in comparison to some. To all those that aren't aware, the VK Commodores came out with EST (Electronic spark timing), and basically when some of that shit goes wrong an EST light comes on around the dash, now I myself don't 100% understand how it works compared to the HEI system (Points vs High Energy Ignition). So anyway, I thought I try provide some information in the hope someone can help me out (Head over to the discussion thread lad& lasses). So basically the EST replaces the timing function of the distributor, in which it has several sensor units including; an engine speed sensor, coolant temperature sensor, inlet manifold vacuum sensor, throttle position switch and a starter motor sensor. After receiving information from the various sensors it also makes allowances in the ignition timing in which fall into one of the following categories: 1) "Normal Operation - Under normal operating conditions above 900rpm, the control module advances the ignition timing to provide maximum power, fuel economy and low exhaust emissions" 2) "Cranking operation- at cranking speed the ignition timing is 6 deg BTDC" 3) "Idle- at engine speed between 400-900 rpm with the throttle position switched closed, ignition timing is 6 deg BTDC. If the engine is cold or additional load is placed on the engine, the control module advances the timing to increase idle speed." 4) Overspeed- When engine speed exceeds 5800 rpm, the control module limits spark advance to 20 deg BTDC to prevent engine damage" 5) "Deceleration- When decelerating the throttle position switch is in the closed position with the engine speed exceeding 900 rpm. The control module senses that the engine is under deceleration and adjusts the ignition timing to reduce exhaust emissions." 6) "Limp operation - of the control module detects a fault in the system a warning light appears on the dash and the limp operation is activated. Ignition timing is at 6 deg. BTDC an does not advance" So yeah I'm in 'Limp operation', bit of a shag up. I Have been told you can change out the distributor to a VH one but don't know the full extent as to the benefits other than no EST. I will check all the sensors to try and resolve it, but in the long run I'm guessing it best to ditch it ? Fuck I write way too much yarns.

This is absolutely outstanding work mate! Looking forward to seeing the end product !

Yea 5lbs is probably more realistic. 8Hp sounds like a lot for a change of fan set up! But I guess there's less rotational inertia with the electric fan, along with a little bit less stress on the engine? Anyway, electric looks way better in the engine bay (bae) so hopefully ill do the swap sometime in the near future!

Hey mate, Sorry for my lack of activity on here. That sounds awesome! I would love to have ability to rev the old 202 out nicer! Also the lower rpms at 100 sounds mint compared to my 2900ish at 100. Have had a little bit of an investigation regarding how much lighter the starfire flywheel is, I saw somewhere someone said approximately 7lbs lighter than the Blue/ Black one. Not 100% on how right that figure is though

Bake the shit out of it, get the wof and worry about it later Not like we both haven't done it before

Looking awesome!!! 10/10 agree with you on removing steering column, I left it in when I removed my pedal box out of the starfire at Zebra.... such mares. I still can't get over the fact that you scored the gearbox and clutch etc for $50, not even the warehouse can give you bargains like that! And the fan is looking mint!, I just bought a new alloy one as mine is leaking, have yet to put it in though, very keep on going thermo fan. What are the specs/ set up regarding yours?

I like to try and keep up with 1JZ'S and Tractor spec SR20DET'S, I need moar gears

Sounds about right, a lot of coin though. Yeah I mean it's not that anyone will really notice/ care, Im sure you'll do it legit and safe and not some hack job anyways. Still don't know what I'm going to do yet though.....

Just as I thought, no point putting in the factory box then. And if you go for certification should just do all the upgrades at once (brakes etc ) too. What does the average certifier charge ? have heard a lot of different prices before...

Hey mate, Yeah I've read your thread and I must say you've done an awesome job! Also followed it on the tard for awhile too. Please go in depth when you install the electric fan as I'm quite keen do it also! In regards to the Cert, I talked to the cert man at the CRC speed show about it and talked about the contradicting statements in the certification documents, and he said they're about to amend it sometime later this year. So I'm not quite sure what I am going to do yet, if I have to cert it, I would definitely just go with the toyota box for the reasons being that it's said to be much much stronger with better ratios and what not. But as I have said, as Im not sure with the whole cert thing so im just waiting till I know what I really should do. Interesting note with the starfire flywheel too! Might look into it a bit more... As above, the cert lad reckons when I change the pedal box Im altering the braking system... Don't know how that works? HTC shitty phone life mate haha, go for it Its not the wof man id be worried about, it's not the cops id be worried about, it's the insurance id be worried about. I've got a VY booster and master cylinder on the old girl too, VTNZ didn't pick it up, and id never expect them too either.

I shall try and attend

This thing is so rad, even with the ArrrrghF*knBee! Noticed you too have mismatching rear tail lights, same as mine but opposite side... fancy a trade ?

Will stick with cable for the time being. Was the difference that big? What's the cost side of it like? Yeah I feel like the 202 doesn't love being revved much past 3500 rpm, but then again, It is auto

Hahaha at least you had the goods on your break down! Is there any better options regarding the distributor ? Nice ride mate. Regarding the factory 5 speed, I already know all the risks about using the M76, but I've decided I'm still going to pursue it simply due to the fact that doing it all factory spec is legal and doesn't require certification. For the time being, I just really want a manual and have the choice when to change gears, also having 2 more gears will be much better and more economical! Yeah I've read up about how they get more power into the 202, It's such a restrictive engine in the terms of air flow, more flow into the head = better performance, and you can really notice how restrictive it is when you plant your foot (ie, much noise, very little go).

Hold on, don't I need a VK Borg Warner M76 as the VK is a 202 EST Black motor, and I heard that the EST models had a sensor of some sort on the bell housing ? 10/10 Not sure on this though

Probably wouldn't part with the saas(y) wheel...yet... until I get something I would really like (flat momo suede wheel). As for the boss (bawss) kit, I've only had it for like 3 days hahaha. Yeah I've seen this blokes build thread, much score on the YT head!!!!. And if he's in Manawatu area, it would be very easy for a family member to get for me! Thanks for the suggestion! I shall ask him... Loving your build thread too mate!

VK build ups 'build' thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48945-vkzacs-1985-vk-commodore/

Righto, thought I should spin some yarns about my Commodore on here because after reading a fair bit of threads, you guys don't seem half bad... So, I acquired the car after my late Grandfather passed away (RIP) and my Grandma had no use for it, after a chat with other family members, it was mine (I did have to pay the sum in which the local car yard offered her to my dad's request). My Grandad was the 2nd owner of the car after it was purchased as a company car from a yard brand new (I have an impressive amount of handwritten information about the car, repair, service history etc.). He used it for a daily driver for a bit before it moved to the designated caravan hauler due to the mighty and grunty 202 and 3 speed auto. Once I got the car (Start of 2012) She flew through the wof (Have over 20 + wof sheets for the car) and dad and I proceeded to drive it home to Auckland from Palmerston north, in which we discovered how uneconomical it was, especially considering dad drives a manual LS1 daily, and usually drives it like he stole it. So once I got my restricted, I barely drove it due to not being able to put gas in the bloody thing (often have run out of gas). So it sat for well over a year after failing a wof on rear window rust and after having multiple brake booster and master cylinder issues..... BUT NOW IT'S BACK IN ACTION. Anyways, onto the junk inside her trunk engine bay... - Black 202 engine (Reconditioned short block, converted cylinder head to lead free spec) - 3 speed auto - VT Brake booster and Master cylinder Also It's on VY SS Mags which I am no longer fond of and also has a SAAS steering wheel (HAHAHAHA I KNOW. But legit feels better than the normal bus steering wheel it came with). Short term goals: - Manual conversion to M76 5 speed factory spec (Have manual pedal box and clutch cable so far) - Lower with some half decent shocks (My girlfriends swifts handles so much better than this hunk of shit) - Black steel wheels, like NASCAR kind of look - Enough said - New radiator as current one leaks so bad omfg (Convert to fans??????) - Put some goodies I've accumulated over the last month - I have mismatching tail lights after some iufweieu hit me in a car park a year or so back, so would like matching ones Long term goals: -MOAR POWER Hopefully some of that list WILL HAPPEN (maybe, maybe not), but lets be honest, I'm a poor ass uni student with a girlfriend so probably not quickly. anyways, discuss my build-ups ! //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48943-vkzacs-1985-vk-commodore/

Discuss/ Have some yarns about my car with me here...

Oh right, cheers for the clarification. Thought I read 16x7 haha. I dig the interceptors so much, very much want

Just wonder if those steelies are VE police wheel? Are if so, did you just get the centers machined to fit? Cheers mate