johnny.race

I'd never heard of this before - wow. I wonder if it works like the real thing? Probably. Using the word probably again - there is 'probably' some clever pricks on here that could replicate this sorta thing from shopping on ali. https://jattus.com/shop/tig-perfect

I wondered about ali MIG welding also. Makes 3 of us, lol! I remember years ago seeing a complete setup come up on TM that was fresh out of industry. Had been replaced with something newer or something. I remember in the comments section reading the sellers comments about the unit being a well used and well proven unit. It was used near everyday and ran like a dream. It was 3ph from memory. It had a spool gun on it. Right up my alley I thought. Plug and play. It attracted a lot of attention and sold. I dreamed about owning it but can't have wanted it that bad because I never stumped up to buy it. I think the main thing to me was that I knew deep down it would be like a fair bit of my gear - nice to have, mates love it but I hardly had call to use it after initial excitement had faded . Must have been right. That was years ago and I hardly (if ever) have had cause to have something alum welded. I just don't use the stuff. I'd like to though, but are probably deluding myself. Since then, I've noticed pulse welding machines are becoming more common and affordable. Fuck I'd like one of them that could do alum. I don't know squat about pulse though. I wonder if any OS'ler uses one at work and cares to comment?

Ah, just seen this. GMC put these behind the 6.2 Diesels in their 1500 4WD Pickups. We owned one for around 12yrs. We had the trans rebuilt twice in that time. The second time round I questioned the trans shop given they had gone through it years earlier. They basically said there is too much truck for the trans. I get what they meant. The 6.5's came out with 4L80e's behind them in the same truck I understand. I reckon GM did a marginal move putting them in the big arse yank pickups. Just my experience in matters. Oh yeah ... we used the truck to tow tandems/car on a semi irregular basis.

@M.H. https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56868-new-bunnings-gas-n-go-welding-bottle-hire/&do=findComment&comment=2060855 According to the link above I was quoted $1114 to buy in, and $425 per refill after that. Fuck, that was in 2018 and I still paid $425 today for a refill. Obviously things don't move in a hurry in the welding gas world. Good shit.

Swapped this in today for a new (full) one. Cost $425 incl. Eziswap Gas. G size. Argonshield. For those that were wondering what it cost to refill the large size. I'm usually in and out of that shop when I change a bottle but today I found myself in the new welders section looking at all the new stuff. Gawd! Need to stay outta this thread.

Anyone know what the norm is in industry re welding stainless steel. Fuck knows where I have been all my life but I've never had anything to do with the stuff and always thought it had to be TIG welded. Not totally true because when I purchased an old welder years ago, I noticed it came with some arc rods for doing stainless. I put this down to this is what they must have used back in the day' given the welder was from the 1950's. But anyway - yeah TIG. But then I came across a clip on YT showing a guy MIG welding stainless so throwing all of my preconceived views out the window. So question - how is stainless normally welded in industry? Anyone know?

When he said media - what did he mean exactly? Sand is a media' but unsure of what terminology is par for course in the blasting industry. Something tells me he wasn't talking about sand blasting?

I've been intouch with a crowd in Aus who sell conversion bits and pieces and they reckon there is a clearance problem between the ls1 front sump style (Holden) and a solid axle Lux's top torque reaction arm that they have mounted to the top of the axle housing. They get around it by using a rear sump and relocating the rod pickup points. Good to know. This stuff will all become clear when the ruffy Hilux I picked up a few months ago makes it from around the back of the shed. I'm familiar with the LN65/106 style Hiluxs - just not with 8 cyl's in them. The rougher of the two is on the trailer but there is not alot between them, lol!

Cheers @Testament The jury is still out on which way I go, manual or auto but yeah direction will firm up as time progresses I guess. Ta for the points.

Started to notice, well didn't start - couldn't miss the dirty great drip marks being left by the car in its parking spot. Knew what it was straight away but hoped against hope it was something else. Rear main crank seal. Drove it around a little but was always transfixed (lol!) by the oil drip it left behind when parked. Reminded myself why I purchased the car in the first place then parked it on the hoist to undo/remove the motor/trans etc. Gawd what a fucking job. Even with a hoist, gantry and trans jack. Fucking oily covered wires and shit everywhere. Did it though. What a fucking difference working on late model stuff compared to carbed shit. Sensors and wires everywhere. The more I look and think about things though, the more I realize I've lived under a rock wayyy too long. Fuel injection, wasted spark, aluminium block and heads and six bolt mains to boot. Dammn!! Anyway, an eye opener for sure. But I have some questions/need a hand. @vk327 mate some advise please? I have taken the engine/trans out and realize I need to remove some wiring too. But its this last point i am unsure about. The loom in the pic above has the ECU and 3 plugs at the other end of its length. Part way along its got a strand (?) that goes to the trans and then another one that goes to the engine. I know i need to grab this loom in its entirety, yes? Probably. Those 3 plugs. This pic is what i have questions about. Should i be grabbing that big assed long shaped fuse box? Is it attached to those 3 plugs? It looks like it is. The wiring for the alternator and starter go into the fuse box. Does the whole lot come out in one go? Do i need to be doing any wire cutting i guess I am asking? Ta.

@ThePog gvm 5700kg tare 3420kg. Its around 7m long.

The rear leaf springs in our W40 are 1242mm long as measured from center of spring eye to center of spring eye. They are 70mm wide with each leaf spring assembly consisting of 2 leaves each. Our bus leans over too, lol!

Got one. Genlll 5.7 Has done 360k in a 2000 WH Statesman. Has got the 4L60e auto trans. Drives/runs sweet. No funny noises or smells. Paid 5k for it with no WOF or reg. $190 later and I had 12 months reg and a years WOF. It flew through the WOF. Happy as. First 9 years of its life was owned by 3 or 4 companies. The last 11 years was owned by 2 private owners, 1 of them for 10 years and the last one for a year. Everything seems to work and I'm good with it.

Short answer to your question is I don't know. Long story is the application I used/tried it out on was on the front of a 2wd LN56. The rim I wanted to use was a 15" but skinny. It was 4.5" width I think. It had most of its minimal width towards the outside (old school style if you know what i mean) so was pretty flat looking on the inside. See attached pic of what I am talking about. I couldn't get the rim to sit on the hub properly without it fouling the 4 pot caliper due to the outside facing pots. This is all from memory but this was the gist of it I think. I dunno if i had of had a normal 15" rim whether it would have worked. Might have but didn't check because at the time i wanted to use the rims i was trying. Yo.

Just seen this, I'll report tomorrow or the next day. Cheers.

@ThePog I only just saw your post. I checked our bus. Its a RGW40. What info do you need exactly and do you still need it? Cheer.

Ok, just checked online. I need a OBD2 I think. I see them on TM. Does anyone know if there are ones to stay away from or types to seek out for some reason? I'm getting one because I intend to purchase a running Ls1 powered donor car in order to ensure I have all of the parts the factory supplied. I want to be able to scan it prior to purchase plus I take it I'll be using the scanner once the engine has been transplanted in the future so is required' buying for me. Thinking aloud.

@vk327 cheers man. I was/am leaning towards the 4L60e that comes in the Commodore already attached to the engine. Are there problems with this type of transmission? My reasoning is I want the overdrive. My intended use centers around being a poser (lol!) using it as my work truck/parts carrier for the most part. The only off-road I foresee is fishing and firewood collecting duties. I'm not into hardcore thrashing of my gear in the mud bro. But yeah, the 4L60e? I have never owned a car that uses an ECU but know they store codes and stuff that can tell the story to some extent of what they monitor. What sort of scanner would one buy to read a 2000 WH Ls1 Commodore?

4WD. The vehicle type is a LN106. Its the last of the 4WD Hilux's that came with a live axle (diff) at the front end.

Yeah I did, well I sent them an email as I got the impression from their YT clips that they were flatout so didn't want to take their time up. Asked for ball park $ for a drive in drive out deal for driving in a 2.8 LN106 then driving out with a ls1 under the bonnet. They said around the 30k mark and that they were not taking on any new work due to current and booked work load. They also said they don't offer a kit to slip the GM engine into a lux - only a UZ. My personal preference is the LS over the UZ so ... I have since started looking at the Aussie sites for costs for the gearbox adapters and engine install kits. I've spent enough time under and around cars to accept that sometimes its better to bite the bullet and buy a kit than fuck around trying to reinvent something that's already been done a heap of times. Still deciding on box type too. Auto or manual. Like the idea of a slusher though. So yeah ...

Hmmm, I've been watching some clips from Cartune NZ and they all seem to be lifted.

Everything I have read on this topic involves the inclusion of a body lift. Does anyone have first hand info on why you need to lift the body? What part (or parts) don't fit or foul due to the body being left in the OEM body position in relation to the chassis. Cheers.

Ahh for the days of a timing light and screw driver.

@chris rYour package has been uplifted and placed into secure lockup. Those two BB Chryslers in the background of the pic want to know wtf a scoota mota is doing in their shed. Yo to the power and reach of the oldschool freight service .

@chris r, have you got this sorted? Is it ok where it is currently or do you need to get it moved/shifted. I can provide a place/store it until you sort out freight if needs be. Just saying.