8ball

Get a rabbit.

Thats a Mitsubishi sigma herein Australia. Is it the 2L or 2.6L astron? Over here they had the old bw35 trans. But they aso had a "sports" option 2 door sedan called the scorpion. They had a baby torqueflite 904 auto. So they may be an option in the us? Mitsi also released a gsr turbo sigma 4 door sedan. They went hard for what they were. And from memory the early tm-tp? Magna efi heads etc were the go for these things??

Cutting fluid. Dont forget to use it. Makes a big difference. But nah even the "expensive" drill bits aren't as good as the old stuff. Its like something they used to add to the steel (or didn't add??) Was deemed unhealthy? So they stopped or something and now the steel isn't as hard/good. Had a $50 drill bit (a single bit) and after about 6 or 7 cuts it was virtually dead. Cutting fluid and correct speed used. Was in a drill press, so no weird side loads/angles during drilling either. After a resharpen it was ok for 2 cuts before needing another sharpen..

Go find an old Barry's garage/estate sale and buy all his drill bits and files. I did that a few times now have few hundred kilos of old tools lol. Far better than todays shite

Nice work. I cant remember the brand drills i have. They're pretty old (20-30yrs old) but it seems the older drills seem to be better/harder than some of the new ones? Did you use cutting fluid/spray? Helps alot but messy.

No body likes doing something for nothing. So i asume you'd just get a call informing you of the offensive nut and then charged $100-$135h Labour to fix it plus parts.

SNAP!

Cant say if will help in your scenario. But when we were left a car to fix and it had the old mag/wheel lock nut and the owner didn't leave/have the key, we loosened all the other nuts on the rim. And then retightened them extra tight. This would sometimes (about 60/40) make the lock nut become loose and allow you to remove it with pliers/socket/or even fingers? Or once i just found a drill bit approx stud sized and drilled the stud through the wheel nut. When the nut fell off etc i removed the wheel, cleaned up the stud and knocked it out and replaced it

You're just trying to start it as it sat? Definitely. Fresh fuel and fuel filter will go a ways to helping it run.

Has it ever started since you've owned it? Hasn't got a fuel cut anti-theft on it? Kill switch etc etc.

There ya go. Knew i read something about different tyre pressures. Old fuzzy memory still kinda workin lol

Will be useless to you if you slam it. But i heard if you run a different tyre pressure in the rear (4-5psi ?)higher it helps the straight line stability of these things. But if you slam it ive got no idea if that still applies lol. Im sure high speed isn't the main interest in a low rider haha.

Non acid wheel cleaner isnt bad for alloy ive found.

Not sure mate but camber would have to be like 15-20deg for all that street cred right?

How far is it up the hill? Rig up a pulley/whinch system. Make a track kinda like a small monorail or even twin train track setup and winch it up the hill

Is it a clear plastic lense thats come off a black plastic body? Or is it a clear on clear? My choice would be loctite super glue. Loctite 406.

https://www.motormag.com.au/features/1503/mid-engine-holden-rodeo-track-monster Stumbled across this. Didn't know where to post it.

Nice. Maybe a removable kickboard for when ya cant be bothered (or just cant) move it and that bastard tool rolls underneath it lol

Spoke to a guy i worked with and turns out i was kinda wrong. They weren't a factory item just the company that had the fleet of cars had same issue as you in a few cars and fitted aftermarket oneway valves. Unfortunately whoever chose them used some weird design instead of a normal ball and spring design. (Easily found on ebay) The rubber diaphragm unit they fitted was as unreliable as a flymesh condom. But. You could do the same. But a decent "check valve" or oneway valve and fit it just before the fuel rail. It could very much fix your issue. If not id look at the pressure reg. Then the injectors. (This would mean its flooding the cylinders or cylinder and requiring you to flush itbout before it fires, but i tending towards oneway valve or pressure reg )

I think it was an 80's nissan?? Was many moons ago now. Most modern cars utilize the pump as you said. Try what i said. Click the ignition "on" wait about 4seconds then crank it. If it fires straight away then it narrows it down to a fuel priming issue. Your mechanic will probably do this same test anyway. But possibly charge you to do so? Its quick and easy to do

Ive seen some cars with a one way type valve that sits near the pressure reg. They were a rubber diaphragm setup that used to perish. If your car has one it could be this. One way to test is before starting turn the ignition on for a few seconds to allow the fuel pump to "prime" up the pressure etc. Then crank it. If it then fires straight away you have oneway valve issue in your fuel line.

Stale fuel. Fuel filter Spark plugs Air filter. Battery (how old and does it test within spec?) Lazy/fucked starter. Bad earth or missing earth straps. Few things to look at and check.

I'll have to checksome of them out once my bloody laptop is over its hissy fit. (Aslong as thats b4 i throw it out the friggan window and drive over it a few times) No use looking via the mobile. Thanks guys

I haven't done any computer modeling stuff since high school on a really old cad system. But thats like 20 odd years ago. Wanting to print some small parts /ideas for projects. Stuff you can't buy but need.

Anyone here done any 3d printing? Whats a good (preferably free) software to get started with. Is a scanner required or just useful.