MightyJoe

I legit tried to get to my first ever meet in dec and my clutch slave fucked out when I went to use it. Typical. 

Thanks for the replies, im going to run 10w 40 to start with, its a brand new motor so should'nt need anything thicker, i have an aftermarket oil presure gauge installed (electric sender) and the standard oil light. i'll see what pressure it reads cold and hot as to whether i'll switch to a different weight.  

mineral vs synthetic is something interesting which i need to do more research on, not too fussed about cost at this stage cos its a weekend car and wont be doing loads of miles yet. 

I'm looking for recommendations and experiences with modern oils in older engines. 

I used Lucas break in oil in my Ford engine ( flat tappet high lift cam) . After the 30 mins initial startup i drained that and used a mixture of the rest of the break in oil left in the container and some semi synthetic 10w40. This has been in the car for about 15 minutes of total running but that was over a year ago.  I need recommendations for some full zinc oil to run for the full duration . 5 - 8 thousand Ks probably.   

not sure on the wheel size i'll check tomorrow. and thanks i have no clue about bikes really, but i know some are sought after and valuable. i wouldn't want a fortune for them but i dont want them rotting in my garden cos they're worthless and i cant shift them on. 

Does anyone know anything about new Hudson bicycles? I can't find much info that's any use to me. It's a nice looking bike. The Raleigh looks pretty standard. Any idea as to what these are worth?  *edit* the paint detailing on the headstock and forks is custom 

i hung the bike on ratchet straps from the rafters and then it was high enough to use my trolley jack  

I was kinda freaked out I had to dismantle the top end to get the head off which is something I'm not used to but with the workshop manual it was all good. 46kg total weight is nice I'm not gonna lie. But the 3 point pivot thingy between swing arm, rear motor mounts and kick stand was awkward when befitting but turned out all good. 

Barnsys all trade services.  

https://www.barnsys.co.nz

Our small company requires an experienced excavator operator/leading hand
We are a very small company, with 9 staff.we have 5 diggers from 2.5 to 14 ton, which we need for different operations.
We are a civil construction company,specialising in hill digouts, gravel rafts, demolition(as required)driveways and retaining walls. We also have a permanent gang on domestic drainage.
The applicant must be able to set up laser and dig to required levels, work in with builders, and supervise a labourer. He also needs to be familiar with trucks and quarries,and organisation of materials.
He must be able to digout and competently prep up driveways,Carpark’s etc, for concrete and or Ashphalt.
There will be a Ute provided, with tools, laser and fuel tank on board.
NB , the last operator, after 7.5 years of flawless workmanship, has decided to stay back in Philippines, and has left some very big boots to fill!

Joe. Pm me for contact details please. Cheers. 

You could go full barry and build a trailer for it and attachments. Ride to a job, remove motor to power your weed wacker, chainsaw and mower. Do the work then fit the motor back onto scooter and ring ding ding ding home again. 

A stubby stubby holder holder 

I'm impressed with your range of skills man. I can do all the founds and groundwork cos I do it for a living and on a personal level I can probably make a half decent job of wiring becuase you never see it But to build and finesse a kitchen like that, repair the floor and make such a crisp looking deck is a proper skill. And nice blockwork outside too. 

Respect man that's some top quality work you've done. I've just read the whole thread after you telling me about it at Hanmer. 

Yep exactly. I think it goes behind both timing covers but mine was missing from the front. Right exactly 100% on top of the cam retaining plate. You literally can't miss the fucking thing.... apparently. 

Has anyone tested the pressure of w cooling system? Just cos it says 20psi on the cap doesn't mean the 27 year old rad cap will provide 20 psi of closure. 

My truck used to spill it's coolant daily. Until I replaced the rad cap with a 17psi instead of 12. That was after first trying a new 12psi rated rad cap and doing a head gasket comp test. Leakdown etc etc. 

oh theyre different to the ones i know. ive no idea why there are 2 different sizes. mine are the same. but the rubber bush is circular. 

bits and pieces of a few cars lol. 

you need 35mm for an escort, and a rear bowl sump to clear the crossmember. but theres heaps of info on uk sites about these too. 

Nope. You've got a bitsa mate. 

You'll need pick up pipes as well. They're different.

Escort crossflow is rear bowl sump and cortina is front bowl . Escort enfine mounts are 35mm and cortina are 55mm. Or vice versa. Can't remember. I have a set of cortina ones you can have for mocking up if you want them. 

Hi i got the motor back together this weekend. I gave it back to the machine shop and he stripped and hot tanked the block again. he checked all the bearings and there was nothing wrong with them, huge relief, much confusion on the shiny oil. its Lucas run in oil, high zinc for the flat tappet high lift cam  so i don't know if i  was just looking at the zinc or what. but in a black drain tray it looked fucking expensive ill say that but he showed me the bearings and the cam. everything perfect. 

Apparently i'd forgotten to fit a bung at the end of the oil gallery, (i meticulously check this i'm sure of it.) but who knows. so the oil was flying past the pressure switch and straight out behind the front cover.  

It has oil pressure now. i primed everything as before and turned it over and over. nothing. was nervous but i put the plugs in and started it anyway. within 2 seconds i had pressure and a shit load of it at that.  so its running, but i have a massive carb problem now. the webers are throwing fuel out by the bucket load and washing the plugs out. i think its cos I've gone from a lynx manifold single dcoe which sat flat to a double weber setup which they now sit on an incline. I've read that this can cause them to chuck fuel out of the cold start mechanism but that's a problem for another thread. 

a bit of red face on my behalf perhaps. i'm still dubious bu just glad i didn't fuck anything. 

i used an ali express vent to atmosphere catch can. came with a mounting kit and small filter for less than $30. half the price they re selling the same ones on trademe for.  theres a drain plug on the botton which you could probably fit a hose barb to and fit a straight return to the sump if you wanted. 

Yeah gonna get it in the bench and have a look. 

I\ve been playing with this on and off forever now, made the decision to pull the sump and worst case was realised. bearing material in the bottom. not good. I've made the decision the motor has to come out again. bit fed up about it but theres too much metalic in the oil. im only kidding myself. hopefully its a fresh set of bearings needed and nothing more.  plus actually working out why it won't build pressure.