MightyJoe

Hi Cletus/OS council.  Regarding fuel system on escort mk2. I was thinking of blanking off the factory fuel filler because caps are rare and expensive and they get stolen. If I move the filler to inside the boot do I need to fully weld and seal off the cabin from the boot? I assume an alloy sheet glued and riveted (for rough example) wouldn't be sufficient?  The car will be full interior Inc parcel shelf and rear seats. I would essentially flip the fuel tank 180°, use factory mounting holes etc and make a filler neck to meet up with a 'rally style' filler/ drip tray.  Sealed fuel cap and drain to outside the car also.  Some pics to hopefully explain better than I can

Std fuel tank. 

Alternatively, if I used a filler cap from something modern and obtainable, used the top of the filler neck and standard rubber filler donut from escort, would that need a cert? 

Standard filler location.

Filler and drip tray Style I would be using.

with regards to the leather conditioning, gliptone is amazing. im not sure if you can get it in nz bit if you can, it gets a firm recommendation from me. theres 2 stages, cleaner and conditioner. you'll only need the cleaner once,  conditioner once every year or 3. whatever suits. 

discussion.  opinions on the top mount situation appreciated.

another bits and pieces update this week. went to fit my shock inserts and found both top mounts are perished. They're kind of functional due to where they've failed but also very much at the end of their life, so I fitted one insert and left the other as theyve both got to come out again anyway. They are made of that famous cortina unobtanium but I can get repro ones. I'm hesitant though as I've fitted aftermarket rubber to the triumph and it lasts a few yrs and is then also fucked. I'm leaning toward the (believe it or not) slightly cheaper adjustable mounts which means a cert for sure but they're fully adjustable and rebuildable with a spherical bearing.  I'm gonna talk with palmside tomorrow about how viable they are for a road car.  also had a stall with the rear axle. I cant get wheel cylinders at the moment. worst case I can get rebuild kits but the guy is gonna ring me tomorrow if he can get some then I'll get a hard line made. pics...

damaged top hat.

replacement options

it's a shame these get hidden.

Its been ages since an update again, its been off the road for ages, my own fault cos i cant leave anything alone but i took the head off in may / june as i have never been properly happy with the power, its always felt flat and considering its got an a2 cam and a vernier on it i thought i should try and dial it in. trying to keep up with my mates bgt was too much effort so i went chasing power. i spent months waiting for parts from th uk, and when they came spent another few months trying to get it to idle and i was chasing vacuum leaks all over the show. i tried 3 different gaskets and im pretty sure shes right now. i've got a blackline lsd sitting in the house waiting to go into a GT axle i've half refurbushed, i ordered 2 wheel cylinders, shoes and a spring kit sometime in june and they made it to auckland, sat there for 3 weeks and then got sent back for some reason. the guy emailed me saying they'd been returned. perfect. so i need another plan for that. i;ve got new wheel bearings pressed onto the axles and waiting, so need to re source those parts and get that 3:54 rear end in. 

during lockfown 2.0 i got out at it and started tnkering. i bought these name tabs off ebay and made a small control panel for the accessories. I'm pretty happy with it, they were supposed to be mounted under the dash but I didnt like the way the keys interfered with them so I moved them, only now you cant see the tabs clearly hence they angle they're on. meh. itll do. 

23 hours ago, kyteler said:

https://www.lynxauto.com.au/weber-dcoe-twin-2x-carburettor-linkage-kit.html

They also sell/provide individual components, as does palmside, I believe. 

On 04/07/2021 at 20:00, dspec_tt131 said:

Trying to assemble a twin side draft linkage kit, any tips on where to find individual components? 

also palmside in chch might be able to help 

nah not really. il fuse it, but as said the car doesn't have a fuse box so I worry about heating stuff up.  al good though. cheers. 

27 minutes ago, kws said:

If my front fog lamp has a crack in the lens, but doesnt let moisture in, can it pass a WOF or is it an instant fail? Could I use clearcoat on the plastic lens to prove its "sealed"?

The VIRM is quite clear on letting moisture in, but not for the crack its self - 6. A lens is missing, or has a hole, crack or other damage that allows moisture or dirt to enter.

this is prob not a helpful answer, but we've put trucks through multiple times with glad wrap over the lenses covering stone chips. eventually they've been replaced but at the time, the beam pattern was correct and the lens wasnt corroded etc.  

11 minutes ago, UTERUS said:

How many watts is the light? I prob wouldn't even bother with a relay depending on what switch you have or going to get.

not sure. it's a 2 prong sealed beam. I'll check tomorrow and update. they do draw a bit of current though, hence why I was thinking I needed a relay.  the switch is also a period correct Lucas style.  

edit. quick internetting suggests they are 75w. I'll confirm tomorrow. 

2nd edit. unsolicited switch pic. 

I've got some 15 amp Chinese 1.5mm wire. I have an inline fuse holder yeah, I forgot to say that. the car has no fuse box so whenever I add anything I put one in. 

edit, I was hoping under the dash would be alright, cos theres feed wires already there. 

Gday upper class spam, not sure if i should be posting this in the cad drawing thread but i'll try here first. I have acquired the pinnacle of 60s british engineering, a lucas foglight which i want to wire to a manual switch on the dash for general reversing purposes. i've got a relay but not sure where to put it. if the foglights were at the front the wiring would be short and i wouldnt care but with such a long run to the back of the car i'm not sure. 
1, next to the battery. 

2, under the dash next to the switch.

3, in the boot next to the spotlight. 

4. somewhere obvious i havent thought of

cheers. 

tbh, i was thinking a permanent install, just not somewhere obvious to first look at.  although any led sccreen in a 60s car is going to look odd. 

the 14point7 is sounding pretty good tbh!

31 minutes ago, JustHarry said:

@Carsnz123 has one that goes in the end of the exhaust as a temporary for tuning tyre deal

Im sure somethinh can be worked out. Doenst take long to do a few motorway laps and rejet

that sounds very interesting.  I was thinking about just getting a vacuum gauge and reading the plugs for mixture but thought a wideband would generally be better.  

thanks for the info. I'll look into all those later. cheers.

I'll have a read up on those. thanks.

I've been looking at widebands for far too long. I have no idea if there are any to avoid or sensors that wont work the way I need.  

 It's for a ford pre crosslfow engine. ever since I built the motor up and got it running it's always felt flat. I'm not expecting vtec yo, but I feel it's got heaps more in it that I'm just not getting at. I'm going to start again with cam timing, ign timing and then fuel.  

any preferences? are they much the same? 

https://www.trademe.co.nz/3118689564

I was looking at this one also but am turned off it a bit as it says 'kit' but further down then says the oxg sensor isn't included.  https://wide-band.com/wb-d2-wideband-o2-air-fuel-ratio-controller-gauge-complete-kit  

Legend. Cheers I'll check them out.  And thanks. 

Red interior is very nice. A White or black  car would be the nuts with that  combo tbh. And gold wheels. I've got a thing for gold wheels!  Yeah, my dad had a few but the title is because that's what most people say to me about it. My dad had one of those, commence sharns of caravan towing, boating, breaking down etc. Good times.

I was pissed! Haha. Couldn't believe it man. But Yeah it's something I've considered. I bought an ali express led strip but I will probably go for something slightly more retro looking. I don't know if I was the fact it's a red car with low down (dimmer than a new car)  brake lights or it's a manual and you use your gears to slow down, and the fact you dont sit in traffic with your foot on the brake or something. You're right though, people seem to need a bright red light in their faces these days