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Sunbeam

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Everything posted by Sunbeam

  1. Oooh what have we here? Postie brings stuff. I wonder what’s in it? If I was a maladjusted human I would make an unboxing video for youtube. Er, I am maladjusted but in a different way…anyhoo. VOILA! I think they were on Trademe for a few minutes tops til I stabbed the buy now so hard I almost punched a hole in the ipad. Good price for some very tidy carbs. Such fun!
  2. I rest my case. And trunnions…..
  3. I didn’t realise these things still ran such a primitive front suspension setup
  4. Photo dump! I doubt this is the O.G. gasket. Bores are well glazed too. Some marks, but can’t really feel them. The gasket is damaged… Underside, check out the scorch mark: Mark on the head between 1&2 (left of following pic) Scorch mark on block Big end cap, bearing has faint scuff, but can’t feel anything. Big end journal: This is where it gets uglier. Main cap & bearing. Check out the dark marks on the edges of the bearing: Main journals have black skid marks on them. I can’t tell if they’re damaged at this point, or if it’s deposited burnt oil. Cam boxes are FILTHY, however the exhaust cam is quite a bit less filthy. The cams have a lot of end float, but there’s no specs for it in the book. Crank end float seems fine. Finally, the pistons look like standard size, they have very gummed up oil rings but most worryingly they are very tight on the gudgeon pins, the rods won’t swing at all. In fact it takes a fair bit of force to rock the piston. Something aint right. Aaaand I accidentally dropped number 4 on the concrete. Looks fine though…
  5. I did know that early and late had different setups. I think I prefer the early. Anyway, I get to decide later, but I don’t think I’ll run 2 again! Stay tuned for more engine teardown pain!
  6. I got started on the engine strip down today. I was confused almost immediately (not difficult to achieve). This is the thermostat housing, next to the new thermostat I have in stock: The first thing I did was to take the coolant neck off the head. What I found was another thermostat! Then I was confused. That’s my story.
  7. Not my cup of tea (that’s not a criticism btw), but I’m loving the attention to detail, and the workmanship. Really well done, amazing stuff!
  8. I had wanted an excuse to try evaporust because the Land Rover tank is way rustier than the Fiat’s. So I went and bought a 5 litre can and sloshed it round in the Fiat tank for a couple of days. Then drained it back into the container (it’s reusable!) and poked the water blaster lance around the insides. Then dried it out Left the heat gun in there on low while I went inside for a cuppa. It worked a treat. The innards now look like this: Then, to retard rusting I made a brew to slosh around Also reusable, it will be good for lighting the incinerator. Then I smashed and scraped all the paint off the tank:
  9. On further testing, there’s a bit of loose flaky rust right around the bung area. You’re probably right, the innards are pretty good. I’ll remove the loose stuff and slosh some kero around it as a preservative until it’s ready for petrol again. Whenever that may be.
  10. The water jacket is in very nice condition. No pitting, and just a light dusting of surface rust. I have cleaned up the outside of the fuel tank too. No pics because it’s boring. I just hit any spots with signs of rust spidering under the paint with a strip disc, then spot painted with brunox. Then I hit the whole thing with 400 grit and painted it with a brush and some White Knight rust killer paint I had leftover from another project. Inside the tank looks like this though: that’s the back of the drain bung you can see on the right of the picture. Check out the tide mark. Thoughts on how to treat?
  11. Hehe. Not really fizzing to do another mission like I did with the MG. However, if needs must. I’ll get in touch with Classic Towing next week to see how prohibitively expensive shipping it will be. Dependent on alert levels too of course. Seller is happy to store it for as long as needed, BUT it’s been moved outside, so I’m feeling a bit of pressure because it won’t take long to slide downhill real fast.
  12. Uh oh. I done bought a thing on the wrong side of the Covidistan border. EDIT. wrong end of country too.
  13. We have RBI (via cell tower) because it’s all we can get short of Starlink. I consider 3-4 Mbps pretty good. (It’s actually shit, but during the school hols it’s been sitting around 0.5-0.8!!)
  14. I think the correct answer is get some hub-centric rings. However, wheel bolts are better for positive fitment than studs and nuts. Also, I have personally run 4x100 mags on an alfa with wobble bolts that weren’t hub centric either (in my defence I purchased the car in this condition) and I drove it HARD. I am not dead. Don’t do what I do. Hope this is helpful.
  15. I wouldn’t rate the new guy as an improvement over Mal. Nowhere near the depth of knowledge and doesn’t strike me as a go-getter.
  16. Dino Enterprises in Cambridge Ebay Rock Auto Rexbo (although can’t seem to get access anymore) Lada Power Auto Ricambi Midwest Bayless There’s more, but I can’t remember all of them off the top of my head.
  17. Good enough for me. Might bling it up with some brass. TOTP fail!
  18. @azzurro, you’re the man with the manual, what size are the core plugs on these things? Chur. measurometer says 40(ish)mm
  19. I do have a full gasket set in stock. The cam boxes aren’t too bad. It ran like a champion, no nasty noises, went hard for what it is etc. but yes, she does breathe a little. I was a little shocked at how clean the studs were and how easily everything has come apart so far, but it only has 72k miles on the clock. You’re probably both right, while it’s out of the hole etc…may as well do core plugs too!
  20. In preparation for seal and gasket replacement I started pulling stuff off. Exhaust manifold nuts undid very easily. Maybe too easily. Is that some exhaust stain on the side of the block? Exhaust valves well carbonated Intake manifold nuts were way tighter, but still easily cracked and came undone. The backs of the valves are also quite dirty. Evidence I suppose of decades of non-use and short runs. Then I pulled off the crank breather box. It’s gross. And just out of idle curiosity, let’s pop the sump off. Bolts were not tight at all, gasket was! There’s sludge in the bottom of the sump, and some carbon crap on the oil pickup. I suspected the last oil change before I bought the car was a long, long time ago and this kinda confirms it. I don’t think I should pull the head… Should I? Maybe just a rattle can rebuild. And then a jolly good long run when it’s back on the road.
  21. I’ve been there. Thin MDF nailed over beautifully crafted Canadian Oregon panelled doors painted high gloss brown. Pinex nailed over pressed plaster panel ceilings, fake particle board wood grain shit panelling etc. The decision to go back to timber is not to be taken lightly as it’s a ton of work, but extremely satisfying when finished.
  22. I had to cut the bearing race that was stuck to the water pump shaft. It was still hard work getting the pulley off the shaft and when it finally popped it’s obvious why. Rust! There was also something funky going on with the key. I popped the key out, cleaned the shaft and the bore of the pulley and slid it back on and what do you know…perfect alignment. The water pump feels ok, in fact it looks like a replacement, reinforced by the traces of silicone type sealer residue around the mounting face. It looks like what happened is a ham-fisted amateur, after replacing the water pump (with silicone gasket maker?!) got the key jammed on an angle which prevented the pulley from sliding all the way home and then just did the nut up gudntight anyway. This does not help the fact that the pulley itself is warped and has some crazy runout. Since the fan clutch is junk, and the pulley is riveted to the clutch I wonder if I need to get a water pump and pulley from a twin cam that doesn’t use a fan clutch like the 125. Anyway I thought it was time to clean the motor. I am planning on replacing all the seals and gaskets (not the head gasket because it’s not broken) and I hate working on filthy stuff. I can confirm being able to waterblast the engine upside down on the engine stand is great! I was shocked at how quickly the block flash rusted and also the alloy went powdery really quickly (within minutes) Clean motor:
  23. So what I actually did because I’m impatient, is mixed up some paint and brushed it on. It’s covered by the brake booster/mc bracket and it actually didn’t come out that gross. My attention now turns to the engine. I pulled the alternator off and then I wanted to pull the fan clutch off. Unfortunately, only half of it let go. Side A: Side B: I have another moderately annoying problem. The water pump pulley is bent AND it’s half a pulley width out of alignment with the crank and alternator pulleys. More will be revealed when I get the rest of that fan clutch off, I suppose. Anyway, the brake booster et al is ready to go back on the firewall when the time comes.
  24. Sunbeam

    PAINT THREAD

    Scenario: Ham-fisted amateur wants a paint gun to do touch ups and occasionally paint a panel. Said amateur is a tight git. What to buy? (Asking for a friend…)
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