fletch

Smaller pulley?

whats your email address? i can send you the 1998 wiring diagrams if your interested

Get one that's too long next time you go to nick a part, or an old one from somewhere and cut it. Wrap it round the pulleys and trim it to the perfect length and take it to supercheap and hold it up to all the ones they have to find a match

Not a bad effort for a farmer..

I have left this to the last minute hoping it would all fall into place. Unfortunately not. Work has fucked me Got a bike, bed, permission etc Thanks for the offer offer of accom @cletus and @datlow. Should be able to fill my place with one of the last minute jokers who have to give j5 a gobby.

Spoke to Shaun about this. He has tickled many 185's. Has all the port timing for it, and the down low on the bearing lubrication. I'll bring it on thursday

Sorry I should have said into the sump, not the inlet manifold. It allows the blow by a path to the head then out through the breathers and the oil can flow back through the drain holes with no back pressure Nice! The 25det neo head is the best. It's a solid lifter head, same ports as gtr but with vct. Some people are making silly power with stock unopened motors

Just buy a set of reimax gears for your stock 25 pump. The n1 pump pumps a LOT more oil and this extra volume means there is less metal in the gears. That's the best value upgrade. There are lots of copy n1 pumps about. Edit- I know a few limmy bashing drifters who have had no issues with the reimax gears. You have to disassemble your pump first to measure the gears to double check the diameter Also, the head drain that everybody does, is actually a sump vent. The oil drain holes from the head are not huge and at high revs oil pools in the head as the blow by is trying to get back up the same holes the oil wants to gravity drain down. Build a catch can and plumb it to the rocker covers and a tapping point on the inlet side above the oil level. Have you got a r32 or 34 25det? The 33 has an extra oil drain at the front due to the vct being a constant loss system when it's not engaged. The 34 vents much less oil into the head

Non resistor plugs in a resistor plug engine?

i can pick it up from Trundle and drop off in mid october if necessary

You can also loop your test wire through the clamp to increase the reading if your meter does not go low enough. Eg loop it 10 times through the clamp to move the decimal place by 1

pencil me in plz

I also got a new friend for the wagon! just need a coupe now right? Its the best starting L series i have ever seen, low kays, been in a shed 15 years, immaculate interior. Undecided if i will keep it. might start a build thread

next step is the head. i have been gathering up parts for a while. some manifolds and carbs etc here chose a manifold to run and started matching up the ports and chambers Got a couple sets of carbs and rebuild kits, but decided that efi was the way to go, so gutted a pair of them, pressed in some aluminum and bored the centre out. Have fitted some injectors but havent taken pics yet. hope to finish the head in the next week, and get it to the shop for a skim. I got to get my act together, the family is coming with me to chch for nzdatsun nats in october!

whoa, a year later... so i got the bottom end together But to get to this point took a few steps back and forward. I opened up the combustion chamber a bit and it turned out i would be around 12.5:1 comp which is not daily driver material. The bore spacing of the head chambers to the bores is lol so i had to mark each one to the head. The head gasket is also terrible spacing, but some guy in the us is getting cometic to make him a custom one to his design so ill try and buy one of them Gave the piston a bit of dish to drop the comp a little. Not sure if we did it the right way, but it worked out sweet

Gave it a wash and drove up to auckland a few weeks back. Came up pretty shiny. Fitted some new shocks to go with the reduced suspension travel and its lush again. Had a few funny issues at first and stopped and gave all the spade terminals on the coil/ballast resistor and away she went. Sat on 70mph the whole way, even passed a car up the mahoenui hill at more than 70 Also, gotta catch em all!

Got the ok for this. Saw a couple of mudbug 125's lying in the grass by dads cowshed last month. He thinks 1 of them is a runner. I suppose I'll need rego and a plate right?

My old man bought one for my sisters new townie partner when he came to work on the farm could buy a gn125 ag spec -knobblys, jacked front guard, handle bar guards for mudbug 125 money. plus it's a bit shorter. Turned out he is a mad cnut, and the tacho spent its whole life in the red until the cable snapped. Fuckin thing still goes as backup bike across 2 farms...

How about a Hitachi SU? Aka flat top from 260z? They have an accelerator pump. People think they are shit, but they are just 40 years old and need a re kit.

Has it got abs? Might need 'cycling' to free it up?

Look up nico club forum. They had all the fsm's for all the different years and models I did the same on heaps of rb's 10-15 years ago and it was usually just a few pins difference. I think it's way easier to have the correct loom if you are trying to run a stock ecu as there are sometimes random resistors taped into the loom in different models

Are the brake lines to the cylinders metric or imperial? Pre 71 cedrics had imperial fittings. 71 on had metric.

On SAU its a common mod to do the 324mm rotors with the 280mm calipers you have and some adapters. I think it just fits under the wheels you have. +1 for just getting it out and driving tho!

Snap off every 2nd tooth?

Drill a hole in ya thermostat so it can flow during warm up and don't tell ya old man?