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Posts posted by fletch
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Couple of dyno guys here reckon up to around 30% ethanol improves knock resistance to the point that its not worth any more advance, then no real gains until over 50% with the increased cooling.
Turbo rb, 2j, Sr etc
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Looks like raising the hanger bearing would be pretty easy.
How much more penetration do you need into the box? Can you make a 30-50mm spacer with a male and female spigot to go into the front of the diff flange to space the shaft forward? If you do it at the same time as the hanger move it will look 'stock' too
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5 hours ago, 87creepin said:
So you’re telling me anyone who is half capable and can drill concrete, bolt it in, will be able to install a hoist and it’ll be safe? Mean
Spend some time with a tape measure getting it square. Measure the base width, top width, and diagonal measurements to make sure its square.
Once you have the width correct, drill and bolt it. Then do the diagonal measurements and add shims to get it square.
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Have you got the rubber/plastic bits on top of the springs inside the crossmember? Mayne you have them both on 1 side or 1 missing
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48 minutes ago, sheepers said:
Those things are pretty good compared to most other stuff.
A quick panel beat on the fan cowling and some D1NZ cable tie repairs to the plastic cooling shroud/belt guard, and a bit of electrickery and your away
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I ground a chunk of steel to hammer into the nut to free it up
Then had to cut all of the rubber off the old hanger and press the bearing off.
The new one should have gone straight on and I blindly slapped it on with the F facing the front.
However, the F is supposed to face the back and the price was jammed on. It took a hour to get it off without fucking it.
Fortunately the new bearing came with a new nut as that was fucked too. Haha.
Reinstalled the driveshaft and also a trigger wheel to get driveshaft speed for the ecu and 4wd controller I am going to run.
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Spent the last few nights in the shed on the premise of getting a datsun ready to go to nats, but got a bit sidetracked on this.
Speedo fixed
Then I removed the driveshaft to swap for the less 2nd hand one I have in stock. While I was in there I noticed the rear diff cover had been leaking and was covered in shit and thought I better do something about it now rather than later when it runs out of oil.
I whipped the back cover off and spent hours with a Stanley blade shaving the original paper gasket that had set like rock.
The drain plug magnet was broken into a few bits so that got replaced with a donor from a smashed gearbox.
Then I needed to replace the centre bearing on the driveshaft. It's a cnut of a job.
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Dad went through a few 185's.
He got a new one roughly every 2 years as they would be fucked.
I remember his excitement of swapping the tow bar and 100L drum off the carrier to the new bike each time.
Probably explains why they were fucked in 2 years, towing a causmag spreader around for a few months of the year.
Also thinking he was Ivan Mauger in the speedway world cup finals on the way back up the farm track after shutting the cows away..
I think the tow bar is still leaning up against the wall in one of the sheds. He couldnt part with it haha
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Yes 30 and 87
Have you got it wired up as per the pic? Maybe move the yellow wire to ign.
The relay hasn't got any trickery in it where it auto cuts out as it warms up. Maybe your yellow wire which is now sense if you have jumped it as per above, hasn't got a great connection to 12v.
Plus it will always be on as its connected to battery and ground.
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Toyota 3rz.
Paradise racing 1500hp kit.
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5 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:
Spend too much time wound off the end of the speedo?
It goes past 180 and keeps going to the zero stop. Maybe that one time I went to Mexico and spent some time there, it loaded up the cable too much.
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Had a bit of a dismantle under the dash today. Need to fit the correct clutch pedal and bracket and also swap around the brake pedal from the (poorly) cut down auto one I was running.
Ended up pulling the column as I'm old and inflexible. How the fuck did I get up and under here when I first had this car ill never know.
Also got a new rubber boot for the column to keep the engine bay fumes out.
A long time ago just before either parked it up to go overseas, the speedo stopped working. I always thought it was the dodgy speedo drive I modified. Turns out it was the cable
New one on order. 3 weeks from Japan. Will give me an excuse to tidy up under the dash properly.
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Picked up the car tonight from a mate who's great with a welder. He did the ally fab below and the exhaust.
I ended up packing the engine mount up 3mm on the passenger side to get some turbo clearance and I might pay the strut tower a little visit from Mr hammer later on.
Need to get a bunch of hose clamps, and a few more silicon joiners to for the piping, and some finessing of a few places where things are close.
Then oil and fuel hoses.
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Would the larger valves on the smaller bore suffer from shrouding being so close to the bore and negate the larger valve size?
semi related, on L24 datsuns, the valve notch has to cut into the bore. So you could do it!
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7 minutes ago, zep said:
4.5t usually 3 phase, the single phase pump is usually around 4t
Edit- is a single phase motor in the photos. Can see the capacitors on the motor
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Do you have many other high speed inputs on the link? I think I read that that while they can read up to 10khz, if you have have a few high speed inputs, the max frequency each input can process drops.
Could have my wires crossed, I was doing some research into which ecu to run and read it somewhere. Was to do with people trying to run all 4 abs sensors to digital inputs and maxing out the processing ability of the ecu
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For the top ball joint boots, just go to repco/napa/supercheap/butler auto mart etc, and ask to have a hunt through their boot selection.
I found all of the sizes for my 230 at maybe repco.
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On 02/12/2023 at 23:30, Grumpy said:
Lots if not all automatic transmissions from around the mid 90s are semi or fully controlled by an ECU of some sort.
Who has had experience with getting them to work when doing a conversion.
For example, I'm thinking of fitting a VK45DE with its factory auto trans to a different vehicle.
How easy is it to get the trans to operate?
Chairs
is it the 5 speed trans? look up compushift. they make a controller for it but it only works with the trans that has the external computer. Some of them are internal and they are the shit ones
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New clutch bearing. The old one was for my old Japanese twin plate and was for really long clutch plate fingers.
I'm not sure where the new one came from, I found it on the shelf
Then, since I was on a roll I put the box on the motor, set up the subframe on stands under the car and balanced the motor on top.
Not dodgy at all
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Finished the fuel lines.
Extended the factory brackets to make it all fit nicely.
Ignore the tube that shoots off into space. I'll trim it once the motor is in.
Next up was the flywheel and clutch. I replaced the sandwich plate as the manual ones come with a rubber seal that keeps the leaky rear main oil off the flywheel
I have a folded piece of scrap still that I didn't take a photo of that jams the flywheel nicely. Looks like I forgot to take a few pics.
I also did up the crank pulley bolt to FT. It needs 240ftlb which was tricky when you are also trying to not tip the motor over!
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Made up the oil feed line to the vct solenoid. Well, actually I reused the line I made years ago, but made a new oil restrictor for it.
It's fed from the oil pressure sensor port. I'll use one of the ports on the remote filter housing for the sender.
The previous restrictor was no good so I needed to make another one. I don't have a lathe but found a brass electrical fitting in my van and it was the right size.
Drilled a 1.3mm hole in it
Drilled a bit of a recess into this swagelok fitting
Bit of a nudge with a punch, et viola.
Mint
It's maybe not the most suitable method of doing it, but I work with swagelok tube a lot so the price was right.
Also rekitted the PS pump and fitted a new pulley with the correct offset to suit my crank pulley. Only took a few pics so nothing exciting there
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Just re-read what ya said.
Yea just jam your rcd lead into the inverter. It will give you rcd protection, and the the pdf for that inverter says it has ground fault protection, so your double protected.
I would bond the inverter to the frame of the hut and your all good.
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Roman's 4GR V6 Carina discussion thread
in Project Discussion
Posted
Spray brake clean backwards throught he injectors while powering them up to get any shit out too