vk327

Au 1 falcoon coilpack is the go for a wasted spark setup, along with a bosch triple channel ignitior from a volvo makes an easy setup, nounted my coils on heavy ali angle with the igniter bolted to the bottom using the ali to heat sink, also used a ba falcon VR sensor for the crank pickup, sensor type will depend what ecu you use tho, also check out thesonic injection throttlebody injection stuff for the 9 port 202

@chris r i have a spare 36-1 trigger wheel for 202 balancer i used with my link atom on the vk build @flyingbrick done the cad file and got it cut for me, if you go that route with efi, flick me a message if you wanna know more about the efi stuff on the 202

Some custom purple pearl mix its got a red and blue pearl in it, gonna be a pain in the butt when i needa touch up the paint

The guy we brought it off was an apprentice at a panel shop, was his 1st car, (he didnt wanna sell it but had it sitting for 5 years after being told he couldnt drive for medical reasons)wrote it off twice and fixed it both times, 2nd time he bare metaled the car inside and out and spent 11k on the paint according to the receipts we got with it,

Discuss here

Go ahead ask build questions or comment here Build thread

Bout time I put up a post for the on going evolution of this build, a few years ago discussed with the mrs what car she wanted to build and she wanted an hq, we put it on the 5 year plan... 3 months later im working out on site at one of contacts powerstations and got talking cars, got wind of an un finished project a mate of the site fitter had sitting in a shed, que a few calls and some $$ changing hands it came home with us, its been evolving ever since, initially we spent 8 weeks and plenty of $$ getting it back to roadworthy with the 202 and 3 on the tree, since then its had my 327 chev and a fully built th700 fitted, then i picked up a vz ss ls1 cheap so makes sense to ls swap it since i run CWS specialising in wiring them, so out came the 327 and in went the ls1 mid lockdown 4 weeks later iv just fired it up, will endeavour to post up more pics of the project build but heres a few of various stages from when we 1st brought it in pieces to how it is now with the LS1

Post drag day have been daily driving to work, broken another 2 t5 gearboxes one blew a 3rd syncro the other sounded like an angry chipmunk so now running on a Frankenstein box made from 3 parts boxes, iv decided to splash out and get a jzx110 r154, waiting for my billet adaptor to gm bellhousing to arrive from the states and will be getting it fitted up and the clutch modified again, bonus is shifter in the right spot and cube speed short shifter off the shelf but need to make a new longer halfshaft, cue the i need a lathe for ....things talk with the Mrs (too late its already ordered) (also the you need another gearbox why?) haha

Pics of the water heating and 32/36 on a redrilled hollley adapter

if you havent got a carb yet check out palmside.co.nz, they sell the 32/36 weber new for a reasonable price new, also if you have the ability to weld a water heating tube to the bottom of the manifold for anti icing, done that to the redline manifold i had on my hq 202 made a huge difference to not having cold fuel pool in the manifold, was running a new 32/36dgv from weber specs, that and the vk electronic dizzy worked well on the old 202

vk thru vt 86 thru 2000 commodores all have center cv joints v6 and v8 are all the same cv joint, 21r series u joints at the ends

The same size or even a 3 kw single phase motor is no good on a screw type hoist, ask me iv tried it even with gearing down the drive pulleys it stalled the 3kw 4 pole motor could only lift a mazda6 on the hoist about 600mm off the ground, single phase just dont have the same torque a 3 phase motor has, @Kimjon im gonna guess that motor you have is star wound only for 400v (looks real similar to the one i had), if it could be hooked up for delta windings it could run on a single phase in three phase out 230v vsd but would lose torque due to the lower line voltage. Flick me a message if you have questions about motors and power calcs (im an industrial sparky by day)

yeah the axle tube flange ends are the same on both sailsbury and borg warner diffs, just the thickness of the backing plate that affects the bearing/seal depth, from memory the axle flange offset is the same

can be done. need to change to the disc rear end axle bearing and seals they have a different seal width to accommodate the difference in backing plate thickness, bearings and seal kits from vk v8 sailsbury commodore should work

@spanners BMW wiring is so fun isin't it haha, iv got to do an e30 with an m54 swap soon, back to the topic of LS tho, Im assuming your using the factory LS ecu to run it, give me a shout if you want to get your ls loom sorted to standalone and ecu setup, its what I do as a sparetime job.

the 4l60e and vt ecu requires the speedo input to control the transmission shift points and also idle control on deceleration, without it you'll be stuck in limp mode, the sensor is a hall effect to the ecu, the ecu outputs a scaled pulse to drive the speedo, the 2 common ones iv used for conversions are the dakota unit and, the speedhut speed box (alternately could go speedhut electronic speedo or similar

brown wire is the alternator light. wire from ignition feed thru a diode thru a light and to the brown wire. white is the alternator voltage sense, ideally wired to the battery + terminal (can be looped to the alternator + stud) let me know if ya have any problems getting your standalone setup going, been a while since i done that one.

I done the concrete myself, im on swampy ground so has 5x 3.6m piles concreted in under the center area with a 200mm thickening and 200 thick ring beam footing around the edge of the pad, was almost 4 cube of concrete which worked out about $900, hoist is a motorex base model $2100 delivered, So far been mint just keep it lubed well with spray grease, made a weather cover for the hydraulic pack and is all good

So after a few hours sleep after nightshift, got keen and stuck into pulling the sump since another new tool arrived the engine support beam made this way easier than having to pull the engine. Got the k frame out, sump off, welded in a couple breather fittings and went to town with the rtv and new gaskets. Pics tell the story better, also pic of how iv done the external 5/8" oil pickup in the sump. Fingers crossed this sorts the leaks. Bring on drag day

no idea on 1/4 time but will be interesting to see, just needa get the oil leak sorted and should be good to go

Well back on the dyno at protune yesterday, made some good power (175rwkw 445nm at 11psi) but found an oil leak, seems like this car just dont like dynos haha, at least i was only cleaning up an oil puddle on the dyno and not engine pieces Got home and checked it out, pulled the clutch dust cover...bonus its not the rear main rope seal. Waiting on an engine support bar to arrive and il drop the sump clean it up Gonna weld in a couple of sump breathers and go to town with the rtv Oh and all before drag day...

@Truenotch Im keen for caffeine & gasoline, gonna be heading up there anyway in the kingswood for hq muster

nov 24th is also the HQ holden muster at hampton downs, will be a busy day up there with caffeine & Gasoline on as well

VDO pump specs VDO Universal Engine and Transmission, Differential Oil Pump This small 12 volt pump is designed for pumping gearbox and/or differential oil. It has also been used for pumping oil to motorcycles fitted with Turbos. Can be used as an oil cooler circulation pump. Can also be used as a Turbo scavenge pump for low mounted Turbos to better drain oil and avoid oil blowing through seals. Features & Sizes - Voltage 12V ONLY - 160 Litres Per Hour - 4 Bar Pressure (58 PSI) - 100 to 150 Degrees Celcius working Temperature - 16.0mm Diameter Inlet - 7.8mm Diameter Outlet (Straight) - 9.0mm Lip - 127.0mm Overall Length

VDO do a nice electric scavenge pump, will find the details and post it up