vk327

chuck the new ecu in and monitor the same datastreams as the old one 1st and see if it gets any weird errors, it should be completely functional just wont start due to vats initially. id doubt wiring issues if the car hasnt been apart too much, I have seen faulty diag aldl cables before, when reading the ecu make sure the battery is fully charged same with laptop, and save save save the master file otherwise no going back (personally i save 2 separate read bin files from these incase one read fails)

using OSE flash tool you will be able to read the ecu for its bin file, the bin file can then be edited in tunerpro to turn the vats flag off then flash edited bin to the ecu using the OSE flash tool again, id recommend reading both your current ecu and the new one and save master files, should be able to plug then new ecu into the car to read and write it, vats should be the only thing stopping it from starting on the new ecu

iv got a bunch of wiring diagrams for them , what in particular do you need? flick me your email in a PM and can send them thru

well the stock car guys do just weld a 2 barrell holley to the top to pour fuel in and just power up the coil on fixed timing with a three speed hq box, if ya get stuck with it Im in hamilton and can have a look at it, been messing with holden wiring for years now

so Trevor reckons could have a corrupted temp table in the pcm (possibly caused by a spike from the DFI rare but does happen) he said be careful trying to clone the pcm the flash ones are a pain and easy to brick, and it will need OSE flashtool to write, prob worth spending the $$ he does them for me for $85 and getting him to program the new PCM and pair it to your BCM and throw a tune on it at the same time, hes done a lot of these for my conversion setups

Could be a cam sensor problem i can't remember what code they throw, vs on they run a cam sync sensor as well, the codes and data stream issues in AED are odd, could be worth setting up tunerpro adx diagnostics and see if same stuff comes up, iv flicked a message to my tuner guru mate Trevor at Holden diagnostics as well

@Muncie also what's the issue your having when its cold?

in tuner pro v5 need to load the XDF (and suitable ADX if needed) file for a vy v6 flash pcm and then read the bin file from the ecu (or use equivalent bin file and write to ecu) from there the vats flag can be set to disable

Vy are all flash based pcms except the L67s, edit using tunerpro over aldl data line, not eeprom writing like the older memcal ones, delcowizid on the pcmhacking is the guru on v6 pcms

fuel is fine just need enough of it really where efi helps with the delivery basic link atom runs it mint , i run gull 98 now but have run z 95 previously with no detonation issues just a tad less timing than 98, starfire rods = black motor rods mine is running the original black motor ones with arp bolts, stock pistons in the black motor are utter junk they split thru the oil ring and the skirts fall off without a turbo also really thin thru the gudgeon pin area. Iv had several all with the same problem, red and blue motors used to split the tops off too thru the compression rings

th700/ 4L60 ex vn vp commy or an 80s camaro fit quite well , iv got a built th700 behind an ls1 in my HQ sedan all hooked up to the factory column shift using a b&m cable able to get the full shift travel down to 1st I had to clearance for larger billet servo housing but not by much, just chopped up a factory crossmember to suit, running a 3.55 diff sits about 2200rpm at 100k

black motor comp is fine for turbo wont need to decompression plate will need better pistons and valve springs tho, Im running 11psi thru my black engine on a set of hypertec pistons on stock starfire spec rods

efi works well on the old 202, mines turboed running a link atom have a look at my vk build thread, iv used a 36-1 crank trigger on the balancer, deleted the dizzy and using an AU falcon coil pack wasted spark setup, pair firing the injectors, injectors and fuel rail is easy if the throttles have injector bosses, just need an efi pump and fuel reg to feed it. would need sensors for coolant temp air temp and TPS, can use a MAP sensor if you can plumb all the throttles to a small manifold, usually ends up using the TPS as the load value rather than map due to cylinder fluctuation and lack of a plenum

@robbie frew you will be best to talk to delcowizzid then being its not running a 3.8 or 5.0 , the basics of it will be getting familiar with the tuner pro software with the right bin files and definiton files to run the NVRAM it will need to be a custom setup bin file to suit the application you are wanting to run, its not an easy process and wouldnt recommend it for a 1st timer on a custom efi setup, myself and Trevor have been messing with these for years and still have issues with custom programming them. the aftermarket options like link and even megasquirt & speedduino have so much more user friendly interfaces

Trevor is in feilding https://www.holdendiagnostics.co.nz/ he also works in with delcowizzid (wellington) from the pcm hacking forum alot

a single phase 230v input to 3 phase output VSD will work fine for what you need providing that the 3 phase motor can be wired in 230v star configuration( some motors are wired for 400v only) a 1.5kw rated vsd should handle the 0.75kw load with lots of starts and stops fine, but for such a small motor it would be worth pricing up a single phase one

For ease of use I definatly recommend a link g4, the 808 is a capeable ecu but difficult to use especially without an electronics/programming background, get hold of Trevor at Holden diagnostics about it he can prob put you on to the right people if you want to persevere with the 808. Personally wouldnt waste my time with an 808 now that a link atom can do all the 808 can and more and really not that expensive. the 808 batch fires the injectors amd basic spark control, the atom has so much more flexibility for tuning and custom tables, my 202 runs an atom paired injectors with falcon waste spark coils and iv been able to run variable boost control and 2 step launch

had a couple hillman hunter rear drum cylinders stainless sleeved and rebuilt with new seals and i think pistons at apex in hamilton, was about $75 each side from memory

3/8 unf for the manifold studs, i think the fuel pump is 1/4bspt might be npt cant remember which thread tape will make up the gap its only low pressure

is the map sensor in a position where moisture can condense in the vac line and sit in the sensor? best practice to mount with the line facing down so water wont sit in the sensor , it sounds like you got a faulty sensor tho, being link you can run damn near any map sensor with the known calibration, MSEL stock a good 3 bar bosch one iv used a few of https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/SENBOSMAP3

Fyi those bosch 3 chanel ignitiors need a decent sized heat sink, i cooked one testing ignition on a small piece of ali, also be wary series 1 3.8 square coils are prone to failure. That efi throttle body setup off the falcon looks like it should work pretty good on the carby manifold. on another note i take it the trigger wheel showed up

Switched to ground is pwr mode un grounded is eco mode. From memory your ecu has a performance tune loaded with a modifed trans tune

https://www.efihardware.com/products/2344/Injector-Boss-Screw-In-Aluminium

be better to weld or tap in injector bosses above the ports and not have fuel dropout issues that throttlebody injection has, efi hardware in ausie do a bunch of different style bosses and also individual injector rail fittings (PS the crank trigger will be on its way as soon as the courier actually picks it up)

Commodore ones would work but a pain to wire up as they are designed to fit down on the dfi module base with tabs sticking up on the base for the connections, the au coil has a nice 4pin plug and about $90 new for a bosch one