vk327

Spent some time getting the dash setup, mounted the digi display into the original cluster with my spare speedhut fuel gauge and keeping the factory dash indication lights. Started on the body loom rewiring made up a complete new front loom now waiting on parts to arrive to continue. Also made up a lower dash console which is going to house all the switches maybe a head unit (gonna be road legal after all) and in behind the fuse box, relays and windscreen blower

main things to look out for on a donor car is knocking or ticking noises LS1 lifters are known to tick from about 150-180k on the clock (heads off job to replace), and what does it drive like it should be fairly responsive and rev freely, watch out for doughy or laggy shifts in the auto, clunks or long delay as it goes into gear/ reverse check trans fluid it should be nice and clean and not smell burnt, dirty or burnt smell indicates burnt up clutches/bands, dead o2 and knock sensors are common and will make the throttle response doughy

talk to trevor at holden diagnostics and get the SOE scan tool package, its dedicated holden LS scan software, 4l60e are a but rubbish in stock form also know as box o neutrals if its got a few ks on it or been given a tough life, the th700 is the 4l60e mechanical predecessor which is a 4 speed like the 4l60e, mainly say that route as they had the transfer case options, some of the later chevy had 4x4 4l60e with an electronic control on it but are know to be problematic, 4l60e commodore box is fine if you just want rwd i think from memory the 4x4 box has a different tailshaft and housing setup to rwd

If your gonna go auto look into using a th700 or even th350/400 from an early chevy blazer or Silverado 4x4 they have a transfer case on the back of the auto box, and will bolt up to ls block with a crank spacer for the torque converter, either commodore for front sump or f body camaro for rear sump boy retain oil filter as standard on the sump most the fabricated ones require external setup, iv done a heap of various ls stuff and lots of wiring and ecu setups if you got questions about what works

have seen one done recently that i did the engine loom for, 2005 2wd no body lift needed

tech post about changing the primary input resistor on the tacho input to the cluster, the sr will have a low voltage tacho drive and the tacho is expecting a coil negative collapsing voltage pulse, this modo should get your tacho working, done it to my VK from link g4 output and a corona with 3sge beams ecu

thats crazy money for a DT connector, i can supply the 12 pin for $30ea, (my suppliers RRP is $37) downside is need special crimper for DT pins

flick me a pm with your rego (yes i know i sound like ripco/supertards but thats the way their online system is setup), il look up what pan pacific can supply thru my account. Edit just realized OP from 2019, but offer is there of any OS people in need of auto elect parts

your gonna need one of the MSEL style crimp tools for those, the jaycar ones dont crimp the wire enough and over crimp the seal, results in wire falls out and seal breaks off

Pulled the engine out of the falcon and got all the turbo goodies bolted up, been setting up the ECU to take the Fg throttle and injectors and converting the tune file with HP tuners while on nightshift, should have the engine wiring finished off in the next day or 2. Getting rid of the falcon body soon so will get the wagon back on the hoist and look at getting the engine in and mounted

those jaycar ones are ok iv got a couple but not the greatest for small terminals or small wire, this is also a very good japanese made crimp tool that does a wide range of open barrel crimps https://www.fishpond.co.nz/Lifestyle/Hozan-P-706-Open-Barrel-Crimper/9999511936801?utm_source=googleps&utm_medium=ps&utm_campaign=NZ&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIydH36NP87QIV2AkrCh3BpwtqEAYYASABEgIxbfD_BwE

https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/TOOCRIDEL this style for the brass tab terminals, even the basic ones from jaycar are ok have a look around online can get them cheaper from the likes of amazon aliexpress etc, iv never found those generic ratchet style crimpers any good alway either too loose or deforms badly, unless you spend $$$ on rennsteig professional crimp tools and dies. would recommend looking into deutsch DT and DTM if you want sealed connectors

Hopefully that sorts the issue out with the miss firing, gotta love the Chinesium quality see problems all the time with the ls1 o2s and knock sensors

Time to chuck up a post about my latest project since iv just started pulling apart the donor car, starting with 1 VR commodore wagon the old 3.8s rod came knocking and put a window in the block. Iv stripped the interior of that, to make way for a 6 point sfi cage and rear tubs to the rails to accommodate wider rubber and a parallel 4 link 9", to be commenced early/mid 2021, Now the fun part the bf falcon some of you may know from such shenanigans as palmy/fielding 2020 swapmeet is giving up its engine for the repower to be backed up by a th400, now let's see what the stocker na can do with an FG xr6 gt3576 strapped to the side of it. Already got some goodies a powertune digi dash to run off the factory ford pcm and eventually the link g4 when it goes full send, also picked up an e boost2 to keep the boost pixies under control. Plan is to make it fully street legal and be able to swap wheels and tyres and go full send on the drag strip/power cruise and chrome.

I havnt used one myself, i tend to build my own custom ones. my vk is custom front half re wired all moved under dash, the generic one would prob be best as the us gm stuff is s bit different, would recommend getting a decent open barrel crimper and brass terminals, de pin and reuse the connector housings for the like of ignition switch headlights etc inside the car i normally use basic unsealed connectors, under car/engine bay I prefer deutsch connectors, weatherpack is another good option for sealed connectors

i was just reading this post, stick to the known brands like painless there are some cheap knockoffs around, they are the easiest way to do a rewire from scratch only thing worth addding is relays for heavy loads like headlights, grab a factory diagram for the commodore and give it a go (dont just cut the old loom out may need to trace out heater and wiper wiring)

would need to modify a vx/vy loom to standalone and run that the sistema and expanding foam is a bit crap haha, the ones I sell are in a proper enclosure

looks like o2 sensor? https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4511?osCsid=upqrv8d273ipitm50t5t4fb6b4

if you get hold of an ALDL cable I can go thru how to setup tunerpro on a laptop to view live data which will talk without the BCM heartbeat signal, prob easier than that old tech 1. Trevor at Holden diagnostics sells the envyous customs ALDL to usb cables, looks like you need the memcal setup properly to delete the trans faults too, Trevor does memcals for my Jetbost standalone wiring setups so knows what works.

VY wiring diagrams

yep that diagram is correct, should be gettting 12v on pin P when ignition is on, check what the voltage is at your injectors too could have a high resistance relay or fuse feeding that circuit

unplugging cam sensor will throw the ecu to a failure mode back to batch fire injection instead of sequential, it uses the cam sync to identify the start of the injection cycle, iv got a whole dfi and ignition coil set here on the vr im parting out if you wanna give it a go and see if that changes anything

Tachometer signal is direct wired from the dfi module, only think i think that would affect that is the ecu doing something screwy with the timing control, the commodore dash only reads fault codes oil light and temp from the aldl data line speedo and tach are hardwired pulse signals

from memory will need to load up a suitable XDF file in tuner pro 1st so it knows how to use the bin file data