vk327

Been chipping away at the massive list of jobs still a heap of little things to finish up but... new headliner in, fitted all the seals and in with the glass, trims and interior back together, just finished off all the plumbing and wiring tonight just the AC lines left to finish once I fit the evap core. Getting close to firing it back up again as soon as I get the rocker cover & taillights back from pinstriping. then I'd better get onto assembling the pile of stainless I have here into a new exhaust. Hopefully have it all sorted an back on the dyno for tune tweaks all before drags

this right here... 3D print a cover for all the e throttle and put a decoy 4 barrel holley on top

looks like the estima might be the go then, been looking at using an r31 disc or similar and a mazda 3 caliper with the integrated handbrake since r31 calipers are old and people want silly money for them

slight thread hijack on the diff topic @Roman what f series housing/axles/brakes are you running? iv got an estima diff i was gonna shorted and make brackets for the st140 corona but looking at any better options that are already 4 stud and brakes that fit behind 14" advans (have an altezza center to go in it to match the 3sge & J160)

tachometric relay is the best setup for safety common in alot of 80s efi cars (bosch jetronic era) the tachometric relay is used to supply battery voltage to the entire EFI system and it does this via two different methods. Initially when the engine is cranking, supply voltage from the starter circuit is used to energise the relay. When the engine is running the relay contacts are held closed by sufficient primary ignition signal pulses delivered directly from the ignition coil negative terminal. Having the relay energised in this way also acts as a safety precaution because if the engine stops, the fuel pump and EFI system power supply would then be turned off. The tachometric relay consists of seven terminals, which are connected and marked as follows: Relay Pin 30 – Battery supply: Connect to battery positive usually via a fusible link. This circuit should have battery voltage at all times. Relay Pin 15 – Ignition supply: Connected to ignition key on circuit. This circuit should have 10-12 volts whenever the ignition is on. Relay Pin 1 – Ignition coil signal: Connected to the ignition coil negative terminal & is used to hold the relay contacts closed when engine running. Relay Pin 50 – Starter signal: Connected to the starter circuit and is used to energise the relay when cranking. Should have 12 volts when starter is engaged. Relay Pin 31 – Relay earth: Connected to ground and voltage should be less than 0.3 volts at all times; with a resistance to ground of less than 5 ohms. Relay Pin 87 – Power supply to EFI system: Connected to all EFI related components, which require a 12 volt, supply. Whilst cranking or running, battery voltage should be present. Relay Pin 87b – Power supply to fuel pump: Connected to the positive terminal of the fuel pump. With the engine cranking and running, battery voltage should be present. common part numbers Bosch: 0280230005, 0280230006 Wehrle: 51 223 909

More progress happening slowly,engine wiring all finished and engine bay plumbing/assembly coming along, still have to wire up under dash and add the water meth wiring, got the gearbox and drivshaft back in with the new concentric slave setup. Finally had a nice day to get it out in the sun and see how the new paint looks

as others have said 3 channel bosch igniter 0 227 100 203, I can supply huco(hitachi) version new fairly cheaply iv used quite a few of these for wasted spark 6 cyl with an AU1 coil pack https://www.efihardware.com/products/374/igniter-triple-channel-HUCO

2002 ford mustang idle valve is easy to fit and works well https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2002,mustang,4.6l+v8,1385670,fuel+&+air,idle+air+control+(iac)+valve,6072

Slowly getting time to work on this between customer jobs and the 2 kids my spare time is pretty stretched, super happy with the 2 tone colours

Just a couple weeks ago got it back from the painter looking super sharp in BMW pyrite brown, and running the lower trims and bumpers in vl MX grey, onto the fun task of putting a fresh painted car back together https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/61662-vk327s-1986-vk-royale-with-boost-discussion/

Decided more power was required so new sonic injection intake manifold & new turbo manifold built to fit, also upgraded to a new g4x monsoon ecu so built a concentric twist mil spec style wiring harness and decided to put ac back in so have put alternator back where it was originally it's tight around the wastegate but it just fits

Stripped all the old dulux dulon gold off back to bare metal on advise of my painter got it in epoxy primer and enlisted help of a panel beater to make it straight

Well been a few years, but time for an update on the old vk, been a busy (and expensive) last 6 months with stripping this thing down rust repairs changing up the motor a bit and getting it repainted on the slow task of putting it all back together now Rust repairs around the rear window & boot lip, gave it a nose job with a New old stock radiator support to replace the buckled twisted one

wouldnt worry about secondary injectors on a 3.8 , modern injectors work well at low pulse widths so not hard to get an engine to idle with a set of 1000cc or 1350cc injectors (at this point you'd lose resolution on the stock delco ecu fuel tables tho) , youd have to be pushing 20 plus psi of boost to even get close to needing that much fuel even with e85 and could run 60psi base pressure if needed a bit extra, more viable option would be a water meth kit which typically run a single nozzle into the intake, either the fancy AEM kit or have done a basic water meth kit before using an AEM nozzle with a solenoid and a tank with an efi pump and regulator on it and a hobbs pressure switch turns on the solenoid as boost comes on

proflow fab in aussie are machining l36 heads to work as l67 heads now if you get stuck finding a decent replacement

3sge beams altezza engine, fairly compact 6 speed manual rwd , can run on the factory ecu standalone, can pickup a crashed altezza fairly cheap

Iv used a couple quality varies a bit the painless ones are good. but the cheaper (proflow) ones are a bit average really thick wire insulation and terminals are pretty thin , would recommend still putting relays with decent battery feeds for headlights (commodore dip switches like melting down with decent lamps fitted) and any other high current loads like fans and fuel pumps. Vh should be pretty basic wiring wise, things like wipers and dash might be easier to keep part of the factory wiring loom if its in good shape and strip back and make it a sub loom with plugs you can wire feeds in and signal out etc

had a bit of time this weekend to finish off a side project iv been collecting bits for for the last couple weeks converted a supercheap sandblast cabinet over to a vapor blaster removed the old blast gun and lines, sealed all the gaps in the bottom with good sealant & fitted a 32mm sink waste in the bucket below is a ryobi submersible dirty water pump to mix and pump the slurry of glass bead and water I built a control box with a 12v power supply and a few relays and switches to turn the pump on and a foot pedal activates the air solenoid, the blast gun is a 3d printed hybrid nozzle spaced to suit a 3hp compressor from NZ vapor blast supplies gets some pretty awesome results out if it. really rate the performance over dry sand or bead blast took about 5 mins for the caliper and couple mins to clean up the one throttle body

im using one of these on an efi build https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/listing/3789738243?srsltid=AR5OiO0BmznBLIfYsqS6JeSlZNQOd1zDWLwMGAiO3EvaOGbSwl51xgLV7BM even tho china it seems to be quite nicely machined and smooth action, takes an ls1 TPS and has ORB ports to setup idle bypass

I recently brought the weldskill 205 acdc and really like it, TGA abrasives https://tgaabrasives.co.nz/shop/welding-plasma/welding-equipment-welding-plasma/tig-machines-welding-equipment-welding-plasma/cigweld-weldskill-205-ac-dc-tig-welder/ were a bit cheaper than blackwoods too, the 8m tig torch is handy for some jobs but a bit of a pain for others so iv got a 4mt flex head wp17 setup for it now as well. really rate the ease of use, great upgrade over my old china acdc tig

public service announcement... don't waste your money on a fitech, have worked with a couple of them and average results at best (stock efi performed better and started easier), there are far better systems available. my personal preference is to retain port injection using something like a link atom if going for carby look throttle on top, but for a stockish motor hard to beat the stock efi for value for money does it job well. fitech is just a carby with electrics doing the fuel metering instead of a metering block and jets still suffer all the same atomization issues carbys have with cold start etc and poor fuel distribution on a single plane manifold on a stockish motor.

haven't got the dimension on hand but BF falcon has a pretty decent single fan setup on the NA barras could possibly trim that down otherwise the maradyne & spals might be your best bet

I usually find maradyne better value for money over spal, another option if your tight on space couple smaller 8-10" fans on the front of condenser offset if needed and a single 16" on the back for engine cooling, wire them up so the ac fans could be plugged into the cooling controls if the 16" did have a failure

if you can fit it in a dual fan from an oem car is a good way to go, I use 2002 mondeo duel fans on both my commodore builds(pic in the barradore build) and an oem radiator and fan setup in the HQ. AU falcon and VT commodore are both good easily available options. Pickapart/zebra/wreckers are pretty cheap for a fan setup oem shrouded fans far outperform anything aftermarket, with a bit of relay logic can have one setup for ac duty and look at using a dual stage thermo switch to stage them for cooling duties. can also get some pretty good maradyne and spal fans but $$ compared to an oem setup if you can fit it

been slow progress on this thing, got a massive stack of parts here I need to find time to get going with, damn pesky customer jobs getting in the way. Scored these the other day and a mate delivered them from new plymouth 4x 15x10 centerline convo pros (2 are basically new) will go good with the other skinny ones I have for the front now to find some 275 drag radials to mockup the diff gonna be a bit of cutting to the floor to make them fit