vk327

15 hours ago, rotormotor said:

Thanks soo much, really good info here champ @vk327

Admit I not know the jargon used tho nor which IAT suits.

Link Storm I'm using  has 2x knock inputs

I had a chat with  Gavin at HPR (who I work with alot) about the knock sensors, for most street builds  haven't bothered with knock sensors only when we have really been pushing a motor hard (800+hp 13bt) , if it's getting to the point of knock its usually too late and damage is done, would save the money from knock sensors and go good wide band. Good injectors really help, Good tuner set it up properly and not sit right on the limit of timing. Definatly worth having engine protection setup for fuel& oil pressure, (my previous built motor would have survived if I had a fuel pressure sensor to save it from failed regulator)

Usually this type of iat  is easiest to fit in a threaded boss 

https://stealthride.co.nz/products/msts-series-fast-response-iat-regular-caged-tip-iat-e15

Iv wired a heap of 13b setups on link ecus, if you have any questions about setup just shout out

bosch 026 temp sensor https://msel.co.nz/bosch-026-fluid-temperature-sensor/

link ecus with knock  inputs will take these https://msel.co.nz/bosch-knock-sensor-with-junior-timer-electrical-connector/ work  well and not too hard to  setup the knock threshold on a dyno (ideally want an experienced rotary  tuner)

the bosch combined pressure temp is good for fuel pressure and temp (ideally needs to be not engine mounted)

otherwise the honeywell MXP media isolated  sensors are good i normally use the 150psi ones for fuel  and oil https://msel.co.nz/fluid-pressure/

these new syltech IAT sensors are awesome super fast response https://stealthride.co.nz/collections/vendors?q=syltech

the stock 13b cas works fine have wired plenty of these just need good sheilded wiring normally cut the factory  plug off and use a DTM 4 pin

would defiantly  recommend some sort of wideband o2 

 Link can lambda is good but pricey,   aem 30-0300 or 30-0310 are good setup on canbus so no  analogue offset error,

Been busy getting everything back together, got it all running again on the monsoon and run the cam in with new lifters after finding a cracked lifter face. Alot of work into building a custom cam pickup for sequential triggering  built the new wiring loom for the xtreme and fitted it all up last week, made up mount for the LS coils, adaptor for the e-throttle and mount for the pedal.  Off for dyno run in time and tune tomorrow 

3 hours ago, 87creepin said:

Where do you guys purchase your wiring supplies like cables/terminals from? 
 

I’ve usually gone to Repco, but we all know how sketchy their stock/prices can be. 

youll find most auto sparky  supply  places are trade only  wholesalers (might get the occasional one whos cash sale friendly) most of the stuff i get is thru pan pacific JAS or napa, but trade accounts, MSEL  have a good range of more motorsport specific stuff but not general  Auto elect. I can do parts supply from my trade accounts, if you know what  your after i can get you  prices/quote as needed 

got a standard bore replacement block with a mint crank , will probably be cleaning up and reusing pistons based on engine machinist recommendation, will replace if necessary. identified cause of failure as the fuel reg not regulating pressure properly so new turbosmart reg is on the way, just got pricing back from marsh Motorsport for machining with a 2 week turnaround  so might have it back together before xmas if im lucky 

Well torn it all apart, alot of wear for a motor with 5000k on it glazed bores,ring gaps are all over the place some are +52 thou others around 30,  bearings have all had shit go thru them no6 bore is trashed massive fuel contamination in the oil gonna be a new block needed now I think the noise was coming from crank slapping overfill sump from the fuel in the oil 

have a chat to trevor at holden diagnostics, you might be able to talk him into setting up the memcal you have in your current ecu, hes still does all my v6 and v8 memcal stuff

Well after so much progress on this thing and booking it for dyno tune tomorrow, it gives me a swift kick in the nuts... had it running Saturday everything fine bled coolant all good... took it for a drive last night all seeming well pulled back into the shed and a weird rattling noise  getting louder and oil pressure at idle dropped to 12psi, chasing it around with the screwdriver on the earmuff stethoscope. jacked it up and hello Rodney knocking sound from the sump.

Shut it off and drained the sparkly oil out all 6.5 litres, weird I only put 4.2 in there so I think an injector is stuffed and may have hydrauliced a cylinder.

Mates coming round tomorrow to give me motorvation to pull the engine out and contemplate it's future.

From memory the drier is mounted on front of  the condenser on the in these, the tank is just a receiver/accumulator just needs to be vertically mounted lines can be routed to suit

2 hours ago, RXFORD said:

If the injectors are cc'd to e85, do you think there will be an issue running 98 through them, in terms of getting too much fuel?

e85 injectors will be specced larger flow than pump gas for the same engine capacity, injectors are easily scaled in the ecu the whole point of a flex sensor is to tell the ecu ethanol content and it can change fuel pulse width (and timing) to  suit, doesn't need to  be a straight e85 or 98 deal either, it will interpolate between the 2 based on % ethanol  content, a bit more involved at tuning as will need to tune both pump gas and e85. would recommend running a wide band o2 so can use close loop fuel  trims as well

6 hours ago, RXFORD said:

Currently involved in a Stockcar re-build and need some wisdom in regards to the importance of a cam angle sensor...

The engine is a 6cyl Falcon AU3 VCT but its had the VCT parts removed and a blanking cover fitted as per class rules. 

We are mocking up a new loom for the current setup which runs a Link G4 Storm ecu, which has 8 injector and 8 coil drives available. It has 6x individual Ls1 style coils setup. We have an aftermarket crank trigger wheel which does all the firing/juicing but are wondering that if we don't run a cam angle sensor, will we only be capable of batch fire injection or semi-sequential instead of full sequential?

Is this true or does it depend on the trigger wheel and ecu map? As far as we know, none of the other efi engines in this class run a cam angle sensor.

We have converted to e85, and think the current fuel tank volume may be on the limit for the added fuel usage so any fuel wastage may be an issue, albiet we don't know how much wastage there might be between the 2 so may be overthinking it.

Efi has only been allowed for 1 season so alot of the speedway engine builders are still pretty secretive about how they set things up. Our sparky is going to power up the ecu which was supplied by an engine builder who said he has put a startup map on it, so we will see if that gives away any secrets on how the injection is setup, but I figured I may as well ask here too. 

 

Cheers

will need cam trigger, normally something like a 36-1 (i think those falcon engines are 60-2 on factory  trigger) wheel on the crank and a 1 tooth cam sync signal to allow sequential injection/ignition, without the cam sync will only be batch fire and wasted spark as it has no reference to  sync no1 cylinder, probablly wont see a huge benefit from e85 unless it has massive compression and timing is knock limited. on an NA engine maybe 20-30% more over pump gas, would be worth running a flexfuel sensor so can tune to run either or a mix of e85 and pump gas. the link storm is fully configurable as to injection/ignition mode so just a setting change to go from batch/wasted spark to full sequential(with appropriate sensors wired)  side note with reluctor 2 wire trigger sensors you need to make sure polarity is correct or will  get timing drift (see  the link help file for info)

Fittings are pretty cheap, would have to figure out sizes, can get straights 45s and 90s crimp on hose ends, would need to get it debased somewhere I haven't got the gear for that, I can vac down and regas tho 

Edit, grab an overall pic and draw up what ya thinking for relocating and il see what fittings would work 

easiest way is prob fit weld on insert oring fittings to the receiver and make up new hoses that splice onto  your existing hoses but rerouted 

I have the tooling to crimp custom lines, can get a huge variety of different fittings and even weld on ends

7 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Why is it that oem injector wiring features a smaller (20~22 awg) wire for the return to earth via the ECU compared to the larger 'feed' wire from the ignition supply. 

I'd always the amperage rating would need to be the same on both sides of a powered device? 

I've been searching Google for an answer to this question but no luck so far. 

 

cable feed is sized to suit the fuse feeding it(fuse is there to protect wiring not the injector/end device), the injector limits how much current can flow and the ecu trigger side only has to  carry the current of a single injector. in reality  20 awg/0.5mm  is fine for injectors, I normally  splice all injectors to a common feed of 14awg or similar  

beware of the mace memcal they  are spotty  at best for actually  being tuned, definitely  throw a wideband o2 at it and check fueling is safe, going off prior experience will have bugger all timing in it as well

iv got a 28 spline harrop/eaton truetrac in the HQ  10bolt salilsbury works well, i snapped a factory axle a little while ago so that needs some billet axles to beef that up , aiming to be somewhere around 7-800rwhp, will be a different engine combo tho