hybrid

Mine - e30 m325i s50b32 dyno sheet - stock s50b32 with standard DME, stock s50 headers custom straight pipes to back box muffler, lightened flywheel, custom cold air intake, stock plenum.

Some shots of the data logger / display system how running in the car ... including gear position (among a ton of other things.) Prototype #2 is now ready and as far as the programming almost all features are functional. Still have to program and sort out the hardware for the shift lights ... will probably also use a photo sensor to dynamically adjust brightness .. as the super bright clear LEDs are f**kin bright .. work great in sun light though And here is some of the output from my dyno pulls a few weeks back

Some nice shots while I was out this winter.

A rather cool oppertunaty came up to purchase a brand new e30 m3 260kph speedo. I almost passed this up but a couple of things made sense. My speedo's odometer had just crapped out and stopped reading K's and new units dont come a long for this price very often. Big thanks to Dylan for this as dylan was replacing a needle in his car and didnt need the whole unit. (long story) Anyways, photos. Unboxing Inside the box Pulling apart the cluster and removing the old Odometer Installed the new e30 m3 260kph odometer Seriously .. I hate reinstalling this dam bitch nut! and all installed ready to click over to 000000 Everything works perfectly, including my rev gauge was giving issues as it was down 500rpm, this was because of the needle was out on the spindle.

More updates: -- this is actually leading to something small update ... kind of pointless and expensive to do, but i'm a details guy :/ Before After: Genuine recover Roof rust be gone It was pretty bad if some of you remember ... decided it was more than time to get something done about it. Rocking the RXs for the time being while I put it back together Wet weather weekend stuff rules So starting to put the final touches on the car of all those little bits that have annouyed me. Will have some more interesting updates come soon but for now you have this I decided to splash out on some new OEM replacement pre-fl tail lights. Will just thank Jon the Pom for pointing me in the right direction for these. unboxing Old tail lights doing what all e30 tail lights do best and cracking. Still not bad for 26 years old. The right side had spider webbed pretty bad And the left side had the usual inner piece fall off. Its so strange that this combo always happens to every car? Removed the old lights and cleaned up the area the new sealing gaskets would sit. After messing around with the wiring and plugs which had started to loose their bite on the terminals .. here they are installed!

Myself vs an e60 m5 ... great battle that I really enjoyed going toe to toe. I backed off a couple of times in the sweeper as I didnt want to plow into it! as he was pushing it pretty hard. FUN! enjoy. Road interior nearly complete. Nappa Have some other goodies but its pissing down outside and I cant really photo it in the garage .. Maybe tomorrow night. The stock BMW cooler was pissing me off so I replaced it with a big ass Earls oil cooler / lines (under number plate)...which extends up to the top of the bumper with the blue lines through the grill. Its all isolated and rubber mounted as not to twist the cooler frame You can kinda see the brake cooling ducts. All set for summer of time attack So been a bit busy ordering some new stuff. New Oil housing with the elusive pressed in Oil Thermostat, yes you have to buy the whole housing just for this one bit. My old one is poked shut. And while im at it I installed a new Ratiometeric 0-100psi, 0-5 volt industrial grade pressure sensor (Thanks to conrad for help locating one) This will eventually connect to my new GPS datalogger project (watch this space) Just sitting it in the housing, will seal with alloy washer once locked in. Nothing too special .. but got a second set of race wheels and a supply of slicks. Wheels: BBS RX 17x8 et38 Test fit on car Caliper Clearance for BBK .. slick supply .. went halves with james Been working on the brakes recently to hunt out a few issue with over heating Changed out the pads to something a bit more race orientated and less best of both worlds Followed Ollies Gee's path and went with the V8 Super Car / NZv8 route. Performance Friction Pads Type 81 Medium Compound Bevelled edges for noise reduction, my neighbours will probabaly love me now instead of the screaming from the other pads which normally happens on warmup Also thanks to Ollie McDermott working on some prototypes, these are back from the laser cutters and currently being welded up. All alloy light weight.

Some new toys Dunlop 240/625r17 D11's and 17x8 BBS RC 304 Two spare slicks on the right. Off to be refurbed next week Slicks are fun ... Now to get use to their limits. enjoy Some additions. I was very suprised how light these all were. Front strut brace, rear strut brace and under body chassie brace. Front strut brace installed. It cleared the s50 perfectly and more importantly the brake fluid well. The rear brace was a little bit more difficult to install because of my ground control rear top mounts and tower re-inforcement plates. I had to remove both wheels and drop the top bolts out. and installed Ill install the under body brace tomorrow and upload the result. Time for some new goods. Brake bias valve to dial out some rear brake pinching under hard braking when the tanks half full. annnnd finally got this done .... makes a crap load of difference .. like driving the car at winter time. Floor it in the first 3 gears = wheel spin Stoked.

Put it all back together and reconnect the battery and test. All Done! So was messing around and got GT1/DIS44 working finally with the Carsoft interface. Also managed to buy a new set of tyres which fit a lot better and allow me to turn full lock without touching. Which will allow me to have the car certed. Yay. My spare set of LMs with FK-452 18x8.5 on 225/35r18 Going to send this set in to have curb rash removed and cleaned up a tad. then its time to roll the fenders and lower. I currently have the shocks wound up to the hardest setting to reduce travel .. its solid as s**t and not much fun on the back however will put this back once fenders are rolled. Its gonna be tight but worth it I think. Also note stack of sacrificial rubber Out on the track Quick photo shoot tonight of Hybrids Tech1 m325i s50b32 BBS LM 18 inch, Jamez's m325i Tech 2 BBS RS 15 inch, Aprils Black Cab e30 BBS RS 16 inch. More coming... Some updates: Fuel system added (before hampton actually) but heres a shot of it anyways. Specs: normal pre-fl tank feeds the external accumulator (high volume, low pressure) feeds a 2 liter surge tank which inturn feeds the Walbro 500hp (low volume, high pressure 5 bar++) pump (not pictured as its underneath). The 2 liters is a bit over kill but also acts as a nice reserve if the accumulator would ever to fail. Accumulator and primer is wired in a relay and then to the DME so when EWS enables engine start .. both pumps fire a primer of gas through the lines. It leaves the pumps on the security system which is nice And an interior shot so far. mostly stock, e36 window switches and e34 leather hand brake (e brake) grip. Engine bay as promised Seriously one of the crappiest jobs you could hope to do on an e30. Now to work out how to remove a few KGs of spent KY like substance from my garage. before after Some recent additions. Replaced the pre-fl metal head lights for some light weight nylon frame Bosch projector elipsoid 'Smilie' headlights -- next is 6000k h1 HID Sparco 330mm / 39offset black suede wheel

AN Oil lines to cooler. First off, having a full functional ODBII port in the e30 has maximum novelty factor and its not wearing off! Was mucking around tonight checking the live data and decided to give the car a scan to see what had popped up over the past month and a bit. error 42 translated means speed signal was interupted at some point. error 48 translated means the Air-con relays aren't responding, thats cause there are none I also reset the service interval Faults cleared and only the air conditioning relay fault (which the car doesnt have) so im happy with that) I will continue testing to see if the other error comes back. Its not a major however is just the speed sensor. So today thanks to Ray @ Hellbm (http://www.hellbm.com) converted my horrible e30 window switches to then nice 'click' feel of the e36 switches. I first tried some green base switches which as I found out dont work. This is because the later model switches are infact digital encoder switches and only tell the general module (GM) to activate the electric window relays. E30's obviously didnt have such technology so I went for a white base switch. So I decided to include a small write up to help others, this also includes a wiring diagram from the info I had at hand. Green base switches (dont use these! ) Green base digital encoder Green base pulled apart White base switch (Use this or Blue base). Notice the thicker wiring Inside the switch Proper high current switch contacts to deal with the current from the electric window motors. Before starting any of this DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY FROM THE TERMINALS My brother has had a high current burn before and it burnt a hole right through his hand once, crossing these wires will do the same if you short them So lets get started, Remove the gear shifter boot. and remove the e30 window switches, unplug the e30 loom end and we cut the plug off. Twist the wires on following the wiring diagram carefully. Use electrical tape to shield the wires from each other (make sure you have it all covered) and reconnect the battery, turn the key to postion 2, and test you windows. You should also have the LED light up (you switch should glow) After this, disconnect the battery and tin / solder all wires on the switches and e30 loom end. Right nows the time to enlarge the switch hole in the console to fit the larger e36 switch. I took my time with this and used a half round/flat file. I thought about using my dremel but there is a risk of over shooting the mark and cutting too much off. constantly test fit the switch and surround BEFORE you solder the wires together, run them through the enlarged hole. You dont HAVE to do this .. but it makes it easier to locate the switch. Use heat shrink and a heat gun to shirnk up the tubes.CAREFUL DONT MELT YOU CONSOLE! Repeat all of this for the other side, obviously following the wiring diagram to suit your switch type. My second switch was from the rear e36 switch panel so it had different colours I have included it in the wiring diagram.

Back home now after some final prep at rays. 2 Now its home we will work on the tidy up tasks and interior bits and pieces. Also some final bracket fabrication. The whole thing hasn't quite sunk in yet haha .. The drive home was pretty interesting .. third gear pull to above 200 was pretty much a mouse fart for this engine. Its left brendon driving the 330 1/2 a K back in no time. no question .. F**k it moves. I must say im really enjoying the e30 smell again in my garage .. with added extra of other burning sh*t. Something I dont miss, the smell of e30's haha. Nice work! In other news Finally got some more update photos. Ireland Engineering adjustible sway bars are now in and clear the headers .. Rear sway bar installed -- drilled into body as its a lot more re-inforced than the stock mount points New 2ltr alloy surge tank. Complete with base plate. I looked into getting one with AN fittings however the price of running 4 x fuel lines went up quite a bit. The AN oil line was around $450 Got the car back tonight from the welders tonight. * Permantly mounted brackets for expansion tank and ODBII * Flanged removible center muffler with straight pipe insert * Ireland Engineering Front and rear sway bars with adjustible links * Drive shaft loops * Custom battery mount for supporting smaller lighter batteries in the boot. High flow center muffler thats quitened it down a nice amount for the road. But still has its bite, just legal Straight pipe option I can bolt in for track days. Rear re-inforced swaybar blocks drill through to the boot Front sway bars connected to the control arms De-loomed washer tank and sensors, mounted expansion tank and ODBII connector neatly tucked in the corner. I have a replacement clutch reservoir and arm, just need to install it

All finished and I tested it up to temprature and connected a battery pack to see it bring the temp down .. it worked Also note the FL smile headlights im gonna chuck on MMMMMMM smilies e30's are the only car I know of that actually look just as tuff with no bumpers as they do with them Update [special edition] wheels are back. testing the caps (not pressing them in just yet .. will let the paint harden another week) custom black anodised bbs bolts

photos this is seriously the best way to prototype Sorting out the fold lines with the perf tool whole system Needed to make some room first ... Out comes the PITA bracket VIDEO: Time to cut some sh*t few adjustments to make as you can see .. I also need to buy a silicon 135 bend and alloy 89mm joiner After this I ran around and re measured everything and marked it on the prototype where changes need to be made. We will do this process again and try the card up at the car next time. Once its all matches its off the the laser cutters to cut this out of anodised alloy I also decided to give mounting the new radiator fan a crack... was plesantly suprised it wasn't the end of the world and I didnt need to fabricate any mounts. I just used old parts kicking around the workshop for brackets .. worked a treat! e36 pusher fan gave it a clean up with some decreaser and an airgun placed it in the location to workout if it would fit .. and it does The bumpers were just getting in the road so off they came Needed to make up some brackets from old parts. The bottom just bolted pretty much to the bottom lip the top just needed some extra metal .. which I found and converted

Update: TITS!!! P.S it was up to operating temperature before I did this Video link Wiring pics as promised .. Finished up the covers weds night. Things left to do are sort out permanant earths for the engine etc, Sway bar mounts modified, clutch and expansion tanks mounted on OE brackets to body and sorting out the radiator fan and wiring. So it starts.. Removed the e36 cover to expose the wiring. Lots of un-nessecary coppper in these things bit of a birds nest too for straightning out. Separation of the loom DME plug so with fit through the firewall. I hear all sorts of stories/posts of people enlarging the firewall holes with a hole saw .. I dont get it? just pull the plug apart and feed it through and re-construct back on the other side. Great thing with Siemens and Boshe plugs, they are meant to be pulled apart for pin additions. Taught ourselves that when doing my e46 satnav retrofit. Through the other side. EWS and DME wiring Reader coil wiring and chip placement. Fuse box wiring back to ignition A nice little spread sheet of the e30 pre-fl vs e36 engine loom with colours. Packing the loom together behind the new plastic shrowding for a nice OEM look and finish UPDATE: Time to step this sh*t up a bit. Cold Airbox time. Big thanks for Ollie's cad skills in sorting this out from his airbox design and to my dad for cutting the mock ups and no thanks to stationary warehouse for charging me $20 per sheet of 1.5mm thick cardboard. Dad runs a cutting business which specailises in cutting materials / foam / plastics / composites etc. Company is called cutlines. Anyways here we go.. Top down view 3d The design at Dads work. measuring the card VIDEO: explaining how to program the design for the different tools (Pen, Knife, pizza wheel, hole punch etc) Setting up the drag knife for depth Tooling up the head Air pressure check. Marking the the 'origin' on the card with laser. This will be the return or known point on the card. VIDEO: card being cut

And the ever important fluids. They don't seem to stock redline 10w60 in this country *rolls eyes* So Castrol 10w60 edge sport it is. Gear box is a secret blend of 11 herbs and spices .. for gearbox chatter (from the lighten flywheel) nahhhh its just Redline 75W140 ns and MT-90 added to taste. Some coolant Some Castrol Dot4 and the saraficial lamb in yellow (4 liters of $40 engine flush oil before the good stuff goes in) Still working on the wiring at the moment. We now have the starter motor working on the actual 'starter' key position and not ignition. It was to do with the starter circuit pin out differences on the loom adapter for face lift vs pre-face lift. I have a pre-face lift obviously a quickish re-route in the fuse box sorted the start problem out. However we are still not getting 12 volts down pin 15 or pin 16 down the diagnostic port. pins 14,15 and 16 should have 12volts running through them. We again are checking the dfferences in the pre-face lift loom. Confirmed this on Ray's M-Coupe. Anyways so not startup glory today so instead I took a trip down to see how the new wheels are getting on. They have finished the barrels and are just working on the inners., black bolts still to come but ill save that for when they are mounted on the wheels. With out further ado, Arrow wheels work their magic This is the bit they used to drill the PDC and the caps they press into the holes. Welded and in the middle of being milled. new wholes ready for caps to be pressed in A new colour they have made up for me, Ill name it hybrid gunmetal Tested on one of their spare centers to show me what it will look like and give me approval for the go ahead. Note its tastefully darker than the standard silver (in the back ground) Barrel win. Polished lips enjoy.. Update. More wiring (12 hours of it) and connecting up of misc stuff like booster air lines etc. What a day yesterday was. EWS is a steap learning curve, We started out but checking the loom and electrical diagrams for the e30 and e36. by about lunch time we had found that the pin 15 voltage problem actually wasn't a problem at all. Its just that the e30 doesnt have an EGS/IKE/etc to put 12 volts down the line back to the diagnostic port. So we jumpered it across from another ECU pinout. The pin is only used to tell the diagnostic equipment that the ECU and modules is present and accounted for. With that problem out of the way and confirmed, we could suddenly take reading from the ECU. YAY! however we were having issues addressing the EWS. So back to the diagrams. I noticed while I was looking that the EWS unit we had only had 'EWS' written on it. I asked ray to check his 2000 M-Coupe and it had EWS III written on it. AHA! we had an EWS I unit, crap. SO out we went to search for an EWS II + key. again turned out to be a bit of a mission. We had worked out they (EWS II) were only produced between 95 and 97 so finding something was going to be hard. We searched all 5 series and 3 series cars and finally found one in a 318ti. Awesome, so here we go again. (the sun was going down at this point) Plugged in the EWS II and got a different bunch of error messages saying the EWS unit couldn't find the key. YAY! at least the GT1 computer had found the EWS module. Brendon had read somewhere that you need to make sure the key is in the right position, so he adjusted it, we cleared the fault codes and tried again. Success! Cool so were not had a working system ready to code. Brendon and I complete n00bs with progmanSSS ray made a 8:30pm on a saturday phone call to the dealer and he explained the start proceedure. Reading all instructions and linking up extra batteries for constant current while programming, we set off to code. message: you need atleast 13 volts to performing coding Crap! .. time to bring in a running vehicle and jumper cables. right now we had 13 volts. We could now code. We tried and tried and tried but go stuck at the need part number for replacement module screen. so at 10:30pm we decided to call in a night. We are going to look at using my carsoft software as its not so anal about part numbers etc etc and has a simple function to just align DME -> EWS. So will give that a go. Once the EWS is aligned the car sould just start.

Here are some random images I thought may be mildy interesting of the workshop the car is in.. Tune rocking out on our local rock station, notice the taped down tuner so bad people dont go change it something bad. (Im being PC here all right! ) Whats this ... another M-Coupe which is being decided on its future. Its sitting in our little car bay where the e30 sat for over half a year .. Have you ever played lego as a kid, well this is the adult version and one of 5 or so around the shop. We'd be lost with out it and I can thank it for many a cut finger. I have a love hate relationship with it now. Some other headers I have New parts storage And this is what sits under neath it when the e30 s50 is sleeping Anyways .. another big update tomorrow ... these turned up today.. peow peow In the mean time, some photos of incoming parts. Simota 89mm neck and 130mm air filter .. anything bigger I don’t think will fit. Thing I like about these filters is they withstand engine heat and have a life time guarantee. This one will sit inside a cold air box once its fabricated up. (and anodised black ) and a close up of the new centers for the new wheels They really do look 3d, the red isn’t a bright red its more a ruby colour which is awesome! More 'parts' so to speak... 245/40zR18 rears