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piazzanoob

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Posts posted by piazzanoob

  1. What Clint Said is what it needs.

    wide open throttle on carb should be wide open on the trans linkage. Sometimes easier with 2 people one underneath moving the lever and one checking at the top.

    and as others have said only real adjustment is the bands and kick down. But would only adjust the bands if confident in doing it. Otherwise normally 727s & 904s as quite smooth during gear changes.

    also check throttle travel too as with aftermarket carbs they need playing with and the amount of throw on carb can be wrong.

    Also how is the motor running? As you were asking about timing 

  2. 20 minutes ago, Roman said:

    Generally a waste of time compared to 98 octane pump gas. 

    The only reason I can see to use it would be if there's some specific reason you need leaded fuel.

    Like some janky old valve seats or whatever.

     

    Ah right thanks 

    Seen that avgas in rich form can get 130+ octane rating but nut sure if that is true or not 

  3. If your looking at doing some upgrades on the gearbox to help it last then i would look at getting the gears and shafts super finished.

    from what i know it was invented by NASA and is used on items under high stress.

    many racecars and bikes get it done on engine gearbox and diff parts. standard practice on high end racecar stuff.

    but gets done often now for things that get pushed to their limits.

    im not sure if anyone local to you does it but there is a crowd in auckland that does it. Morgan engineering in penrose.

    i have personally not had it done but seen the results of it done.

  4. 5 hours ago, SHGWAG said:

    Was going to head along, then realized neither of my RX7s go, heh...

     

    After 2+ years of doing nothing on my cars due to new house & baby, I traded in my job so I can afford toys again.

    Ordered 6 new injectors for the FC yesterday.

    Going to a bigger turbo, looking at a BW 476SXE, seem to make good power on E85.

    Also investigating if a winters rear is worth it or if I just do the driveshaft shop axles & hubs upgrade.

    I want to pull wheelies in the 24/25 Meremere comp season.

     

    I've also chased up the fabricator for the engine mount / sump plate for the 20B FD I'm building.

    Once that's properly mounted I can start getting fab work done on it as I now have the radiator, intercooler and compression elbow for it.

     

    Also, anyone have any good resources or experience with the Pulsar vs. Garrett turbos?

    Obviously Garrett have the billet wheels and spool faster, but I'm trying to find if there's a difference in wheel design.

     

    Just buy one, you won't regret it.

    im guessing your still running stock rear diff?

    ive seen some talk about using a ford 8.8 rear end as they did come in independent versions   

  5. 1 hour ago, KKtrips said:

    I'm running Penrite 20W-50 and Comp Cam roller lifters. 

    Cheers

    That’s a good oil to use as definitely want a high zinc oil in it.

    as with lifter noise if it’s bad I would run it without the valve cover on the side that seems noisy and place a piece of cardboard to stop it splashing on the headers. Then use a hammer handle while it’s running and apply pressure to each rocker on pushrod side and find the one that goes quite. Or just get a long screwdriver and place your ear on it to find the noise.

    also hate to say it but comp cams haven’t got the best lifter reputation out there. I personally wouldn’t use them and would only use Johnson lifters myself. It’s a big issue with v8s and lifters. Not just comp cam ones either 

    im guessing they were all stripped and cleaned prior to installing? 

    As really want to catch the issue with the noise before it wipes a camlope off.

    although if the preload is currently zero then that would definitely cause a noise. How was the preload when you checked it?

    ive always set all that up before the inlet manifold is fitted and can see the lifter preloads. Then remove and fit inlet.

    Im guessing you already know all of the information I just wrote but if not here ya go

    goodluck as never is fun doing the job twice or having to lean in the engine bay. 

    • Thanks 1
  6. I did find this 

    https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/82-92-camaro-firebird-dash-harness-used-select-application/

    as im guessing your dash loom is cut up. otherwise might have to ring around some of the wreckers here or find a facebook iroc page and post. and im not sure also if an 89 loom will be the same or not.

    the engine bay as looking as if doesn't have any factory stuff anymore like engine related i would just start again and possibly just buy a rewire starter kit as has the wiring and colours and fuses and relays already.

    I think there is a few auto sparky type people on here 

    • Like 2
  7. Before putting some coolant in the motor do some kms first as with a new headgasket needs time to get some heat cycles in.

    putting coolant in now can cause a coolant leak from the head gasket. coolant is really good at finding somewhere to leak.

    i would do about 500kms before putting some coolant in. totally fine to do system flushes though with water

    • Like 1
  8. 8 minutes ago, KKtrips said:

    Not sure what you mean by the 90 degree fitting on the carb. Got a link?

    Also Joe said the same thing to me earlier today so yes I do now plan to replace the glass filter. I have it fitted for now just to keep an eye on the fuel, the tank has been 10% full for 7 years and who knows how much surface rust formed on the top of the tank.

    I have a big fuel injection type fuel filter at the back of the car before the fuel pump but I still want to see if any crap is getting through from the tank and the glass filter is the easiest way to watch.  

    After I've jammed a couple of tanks of fuel through I'll ditch the glass filter and replace it with an anti return valve.  

    https://www.edelbrock.com/chrome-steel-fuel-line-with-3-8-barbed-end-inlet-and-wothout-fuel-filter-8126.html

    Can add a pressure gauge into these too. im not sure if they do a 5/16 barbed end or not possibly just 3/8 but im guessing you ran 3/8 line anyway 

    https://www.edelbrock.com/black-steel-fuel-line-filter-kit-fo-eps-carbs-81343.html

    https://www.staparts.co.nz/Search-For-Products?time=8.0074 

    if you wanted one that you can add a filter too. 

    Im sure there is also other manufacturers of the same thing around also. comes down to how much you really want to spend 

    ive had radiator shops clean fuel tanks for me in the past and can pressure test them also. last one i got done last year was 150 from a shop in auckland.

    yeah those filters are nice that you can see if fuel is there or clean. the injection filter will be good as is a much smaller micron filter than a carb one 

    im not sure how much an anti return valve will help but would be interesting to know. if electric pump it probably doesn't matter to much either. bad thing is edelbrock carbs evaporate fuel much quicker than a holley. so can't see the valve helping as they vent from the bowls   

    most vehicles that have had fuel issues when sitting i just fitted a small low pressure pump before the mechanical pump to prime the system. but they just need to be fitted low enough that they are at the bottom of the tank height as they are not designed to suck or last long working like that.

    me personally are a fan of a mechanical pump over electric as less likely to have problems. but when running big power and need more fuel that's a different story.  

     

  9. goodshit on getting some progress and getting it closer to the finish. 

    Im not sure if your aware but edelbrock make a fuel fitting from the carb to a 90 that comes out the front which softline goes straight on. or they do a fuel filter fitting end version too 

    also if the fuel filter you have is the clear glass/plastic jobbie from speed shops ive seen them blow apart which isn't good and they are really restrictive. once you open them as from memory you can unscrew them and see how shit they are. 

    Any car i worked on that was getting fuel or engine related work on would get them taken off and a steel one fitted. or the customer was told about those filters.

    not that im telling you how to build your own car. just some advice if you weren't already aware

    has a nice lope to it too  

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