piazzanoob

you will probably get away with stock shocks. otherwise can get the front ones shorten to suit if need be. but rears wouldn't be too pricey if you needed too

I might have to take my bed there too with the sharns you do

That's the standard OS car life mate The porsche does sound somewhat interesting though.. should bring it although the real issue here is getting bums on seats to listen to shit Barry sharns while mildly enjoying a burger let alone getting an OS car to a burger meet

fuuuuck must go hard az nooow swaps for ride on lawnmower?

yeah mate count me in what about @sentra @locost_bryan @sheepers @rich1179 @Shakotom @ul9601 @Styles @cletus @Tumeke @Snoozin @V8Pete @tortron @Kiwibirdman @punkoutnz @SOHC @michaelme @Avenga @MIRAGE-MAN @Thousand Dollar Supercar @Ghostchips @Ghost @Hurmeez @Snorkpipe @xsspeed @The Bronze @The Dude @ae85 fiend @63Ragtop @MichaelJFox @rusty360 @Matteybean @66gt @Mr Vapour @Corbie @SOHC @sluggy @Sambo @Not-a-number @Taistorm @zep @f100_dreamin @Ashkellybarr @sleeektoy @rivalrx @dabuzz @mk2marty @shizzl @beachlander @mlracing.co.nz @Sourkraut89 @slacker.cam And maybe some others i forgot?

okay when i purchased some for the galaxie i could only find semi sealed ones that the glass was flat and not domed as that was all that hella had at the time

flat face or dome ones?

West Auckland Engine Reconditioners I work there so kinda helps with the rebuild process

swaps for 460 m8

now come tell me how im doing everything wrong on this car here

unfortunately its all the small finishing off bits that take all the time to get nice. so close but so far away right

Also between doing the engine stuff some small stuff got done on the car itself tried pulling the steering wheel off but still can't left a puller on it over a few nights plus crc and heat pretty much just ended up stripping the threads in the wheel. removed the seats and put some fabric paint on them. Three coats later and back seat then removed the door cards and inside door handles and painted them \ some previous owner had recovered the interior stuff and has done a half ass job. much like the rest of the cars previous work so im just painting bits as its the best bang for buck. then masked and painted and decided to keep part of the orange to break it up a bit. good enough for this ruff old car done 3 of the 4 but will do that one at some stage then removed the front drivers quarter window mechanism and found the back casting part had broken away which caused the gears to get out of mesh. cleaned the gunk out of the gears and regreased and made a back plate. now i just need to find a clip to hold the winder on

So after all the motor parts were stripped down and cleaned all the parts were measured to see what was usable or needed. bored went from standard to 30 thou over due to wear and main and big end bearings went to 10 thou over due to wear too so now a rebore and crank grind is to be done. also measured the crank tunnel and found it needed a line bore too then after many hours cleaning up the shitty 1950's casing on the block we set to work on some machining but before we did machine work we had to wait for the parts to arrive from Australia as nothing local measured new pistons then bored cylinders to suit. then after all eight were done the cylinders got a hone then after all cylinders were bored honed and the tunnel borred we surfaced the block then after that was done the block was cleaned and carefully wrapped and stored until the rest of the rotating assembly was ready. so removed all of the old rod bushes and pressed in some new ones then machined the mating surfaces on the rods and rod caps so they are flat. then after all rods are done the caps are done also then after all the rod bolts were inspected some of the threads were found to be average so some Arp rod bolts were purchased then bolted all of the caps to the rods and torqued them. of course keeping the rods and caps carefully matched with each other then measured the gudgeon pin and honed the rod bushes to suit that way the bush can't seize onto the gudgeon pin then measuring the big end side of the rods and honing them to suit. then with the finished product then the next job was to machine the crank to suit the new bearing size so once the crank was machined all of the rotating assembly was cleaned and checked then sent away to be balanced as this is a must do when changing pistons or rods as if its not done can cause engine vibrations. so while i was waiting for the rotating assembly to come back from balancing we did some work on the cylinder heads. pretty much same protocol as the block strip and clean then cleaned up the castings and tickled up the ports a little bit then the heads had new valve seat inserts and valve guide insets. and a new set of intake and exhaust valves and new valve springs and keepers. then we machined the exhaust and head facing so they are flat. then cleaned heads and lapped the valves in then once they were lapped in we checked the spring heights and machined some off the top of the valves to get the correct and even spring height then once the spring heights were correct the head was stripped again cleaned then reassemble with valve stem seals. so everything on the heads have been replaced apart from the casting itself. then wrapped them up until they are ready to be fitted.

Also following the same weird issue you are. prior to lockdown drove car and would get hot at lights etc moving all good. now after lockdown have had no get hot situations also fresh motor so clearances are tighter and tend to run warmer anyway done same thing and had rad checked and fans and all that jazz also was thinking was because temperatures have been much lower lately and air is cold on the sunny days. i could just be full of shit and having a barry sharn though

just here to get some info. is your rear end an f series with t series disc brakes? with mounting brackets swapped from t to f series? please and thanks currently asking as got a te71 disc t series rear end for a project but thinking f series would be better for handling the jandle and less cost of parts and using said of altezza LSD unit. hilux just seems a bit overkill for many small old rwd toyota's

unfortunately some of the poor workmanship done on this car is not much of a surprise as having to do much the same on a few of my own and customers vehicles. Your doing a good job on tidying this up which is good to see Also can't see from photos but have you got a spring washer or a sort of locking fastener on the gearbox cross member? looks to have serrated flange nuts which i guess are some sort of a locking fastener but personally would not use them for this use with type of loading on them. would use spring washers and decent flat washers myself. looks to had been cared for by one of its past owners atleast.

Anyone on here have any experience on getting more power out of modern diesel vehicle? currently own a boring 2010 hyundai sonata has a 4 cylinder 2 litre common rail diesel turbo. currently has a real flat spot on take off so much pulling out quickly isnt a good idea. To my understanding this is a factory thing to keep people from spinning the tyres on take off. did look at throttle controllers but couldn't find any that i would buy due to cost or the lack of information on them. also not looking to make this into a project of its own or throwing big amounts of money into. just wouldn't mind a bit more power

I could see where this was going on the bolt post. now pull motor and repaint the front part of the chassis black? would bug me once its back together its not much more work you know haha. doing the other side of the tubs too?

oh sweet. i would say thats a good idea. have you got a date for the body to go to choppers?

ha just saw that you had listed the motor for sale on facebook. seems like a whole lot of effort put into the motor for not much financial gain decided on different setup?

yeah have found that. have you used the bosch belts yet? was thinking on ali for some belts and maybe an air power file too as cheap

@rusty360 I think to blast the underside of mine was 1500 from memory at mates rates and the plan was for me to paint the underside. i started and they finished it off. i also supplied the primer and top coat. also the underside of the galaxie had very light surface rust so easy to blast. also found that autoblast crowd quite high priced also wanted 2 grand just to blast mine. and yes to what sentra said as if they know their painting it the operator can do a half assed job. but anyway you look at it it will cost about 2 grand minimum to get it done. also you could use some 3m sprip disc and wheels and wire wheels then prime and top coat. can do small areas at a time. also personally would not use underseal as i tend to think the moisture gets trapped underneath. plus have found rust under underbody sealer in the past. paint is also a nicer finish in my opinion

what about mounting the switches on one of the sides? that way the timber is easy to work with and you can stack stuff on top of the box

also keen to see the progress on this! And yes i was that annoying person asking questions about it on FB ill just let the updates answer my questions