piazzanoob

cheers guys ended up having a nice yarn and drink with @- i5oogt -

Yes correct

Hey guys I'm currently going to be in Christchurch this Thursday and Friday and would like to catch up with any OS folks who would like to catch up with a Sharn and beer. Also recommend me places I should visit while in quake city Cheers

good work on the rust work so far! i personally wouldn't of started with a car that bad so hats off to you. i would make sure the car is well braced while doing the rust work as no full chassis. also adding full chassis connectors is a good thing on these old mopars i also would get the car put on a chassis machine and measured up. as anything done in the states wouldn't have been done properly. as we all know trying to get good panel gaps on a twisted car isn't that easy good luck mate

first of all get the battery load tested when its charged. i find the carbon pile style ones the best. if no good replace it. check the charge rate at the battery with the motor running with and without electrical loads lights radio etc. should be 13.5volts or over. if hits 17 volts regulator could be no good or if too low. also check all your battery cables and starter and earth cables. may have a rusty earth connection. its common issues on old stuff also check what amp alternator it is and if internal or external regulator. may be too small if running better ignition and aftermarket radio. also if alternator is no good i wouldn't buy another second hand unit as who knows what its like. and some of the units from v8 part shops are hit and miss just cheap china stuff. unless paying more for proper branded stuff and chevy style stuff is common too. i would recommend trying pan pacific for a new better quality unit.

12R and 4 speed manual? If so would you be willing to part with it? have someone who is currently looking for factory 12R and 4 speed for a early hiace. or know where one is in running condition

have you got any factory engine and running gear?

if you have a lpg bottle and fittings and hose and gauge you could make one

After doing a few miles the motor needed the heads being retorqued After the heads were retorqued i fitted the MSD ignition system i bought. i also bought a black msd cap and leads. And replaced the high beam headlights as both inside ones had clouded over. these current ones were cheap ones from repco but they didn't last. then got the car ready for OS drag day in 2020

sweet project vehicle. would look sweet with some low and some form of hand painted company signwriting of its era. also the lady at nzta who deals with the black plate stuff might be able to dig up some info on the van too otherwise fill out a ownership form. there is a specific one for deregistered cars and get a jp to sign it. and maybe get the all clear from police that there is no interest in it

Sweet project car to start off with. Its also nice to see a couple who don't know much about cars to give it a go and learn along the way. this is also the best way to learn but can also be frustrating and disappointing when you don't know how to fix an issue or break something from a rookie move. Also with the fuel tank situation I've seen very mixed results with the por15 kit. where a friend did his and the sealer did not stick and went through the fuel system. tank was a throw away and rockauto to the rescue for a new one. i also guess that the budget on this vehicle is limited just by going on the posts. as have seen people often get there fuel tanks reco'd but can be spendy. but often radiator shops can do this service. which i suspect the tank gets electroplated also now that you found media blasting. often getting a small blasting booth is handy for car resto stuff and would be a good investment. also yeah get proper efi rated fuel pressure hose. because being efi the system runs at a higher pressure. where a car with a carb might only run at 5-15 psi. and any hose clamp is better than none. keep up the good work And if you get stuck on something there's plenty of people on the forum who can help or take a look through the tech talk part of the forum.

@Mr Vapour knows a few things about this

the easiest way ive found to do selector seals on 727 or 904 trans is to pull pan and valve body out and put new seal in then the seal is fitted square. but this is how its done with trans in car. nice progress looking forward to the end result

galaxie may be there tomorrow if the correct parts can be obtained. then put back together and hopefully go otherwise will take daily

fuck im useless at updating this thread. motor goes and had a few hiccups on the way. Hei dizzy being shit and causing a misfire And me misplacing one pushrod not into the lifter causing one cylinder having no compression and still some overheating problems polished up my rocker shafts and machined the rockers to suit and in the hole. during the engine rebuild i spent some time and made a fan shroud its definitely nothing flash but worked with what i had and my current skills I then loaded it on a trailer to get the cam break in procedure done at work on the dyno. after that i fixed up my old points distributor and got that working as the HEI caused a miss and fitted a new set of ignition leads new cap rotor points and condenser and changed the mechanical fan to one with a better angel which works much better which is actually a chevy one I also got these valve covers as a freebee from work as they required welding as had been broken and customer never came and got them. and sat out the back for years so had them welded and started to polish them up Ive put these on the backburner as spent hours on them and painted one and the paint peeled off and the more polishing i do im still not happy with them as they are not the greatest casting. i suspect these are from the 70s also shows where it got repaired And while i was on a trip in the usa prior to covid i got some needed parts which i still need to fit. also just before i rebuilt the engine i cut off the rear mufflers and straight piped it as was really quiet no v8 rumble at all. then was loud and sounded like a tractor so rewelded them back on. to be continued...

Marketing chemicals in Auckland sell methanol but not sure if they sell in a small amount as normally in a 205 litre drum and goes off if left for too long. Also try STA Parts as they sell race fuels

for the cam situation i would recommend henry at Auckland cams have used him and is very helpful and isn't badly priced. i would also talk to him about compression ratio and what you want to do.

I take it that haul of parts were from trademe? also are you willing to sell some of your spare engine bits?

yeah its not as good as it use to be. the orange juice isn't bad when its good. haha perhaps on the wrong part of the country for that one! ive also got some in the fridge that need drinking and have been there for some time

i was the only one haha and burger fuel was only doing online order so put that in too hard basket and bought Wendy's instead

I'll be there if anyone wants to join also

happy to take a look if you haven't already found someone. send me a pm cheers

I know you said this on your latest post but is it okay to wet sand expoxy primer? i would've thought that it isn't sealed and ends up wrecking the primer also what grade sand paper do you start and finish with? progress is looking good