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piazzanoob

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Everything posted by piazzanoob

  1. so when you are doing the blocking are you just using a big sanding block and using your eye and hands to check its sweet? also is there any reason why you are not using a guide coat primer to help with getting it straight too
  2. If this is in a kp starlet? if so i believe they came factory EFI in japan so really you putting in EFI doesn't mean shit to the car. And the power increase would be less than putting a cam in or sidedrafts on. me personally wouldn't even bother with vtnz or any other testing stations just take the car into a local garage who preferably works on older stuff who will most likely appreciate the car for putting EFI on and you should get a wof without to much hassle.
  3. so a wee while back i ordered some parts from the US for this. And some aliexpress shit got a boot lock rod so i could fit the lock that was new that came with the car then some fuel flap rubbers doesn't fit quite flush but ill let the rubber settle itself out for abit first. And a new carboard type glove box insert as it is quite handy to have a working glovebox and also ordered a set of letters for the trunk lid as it previous only had F and O remaining and got myself this sweet Ariel as the one it came with had been snapped off and not working. then after a couple of days of having it fitted i snapped the darn thing off. you silly cunt still got some more things to fit onto this car that ive already received but will do that after she is wof and rego'd
  4. Will be driving from auckland to nationals so wanting to know who else is. let me know what day etc would be good to convoy for incase of problems along the way will also have 1x seat free for those who will need a ride cheers m8
  5. Another job on the to do list done starter motor had an issue where it wouldn't engage alot of the time. so out it came from its hole pulled apart the starter motor and narrowed it down to the clutch not working under load. so ordered a new one from northwestern ford and received it the next day. also gave everything a good clean while it was apart. then reassembled it with the new clutch etc another job done and dusted
  6. so with one remaining panel replacement being the trunk floor to be done to have the engineer sign off i may as well plod along getting other bits done. it never ends with this car ordered a fuel sender from northwestern ford from palmy north pulled tank out again fitted new seal that came with the kit too as had started leaking before. also made up a new bit of fuel hose from the tank to the hardline And also bought a new fuel pump has also dulled out abit as i put some degreaser on it. And this old shitta was leaking from around its pressed seal so in the bin it went. also new one had the added bonus of a built in filter like this puppy this is one that came with the car and fits too. also fitted a new fuel hose from pump to hard line aswell thanks work for the hose and clamps so now the fuel system is leak free and has new hoses and clamps
  7. So after fixing the chassis rail i placed the car back on its frame and tighten her up. but seen as it had been hit in the past causing the poor chassis repair the bumper was also bent and twisted upto shit. so we made up a jig so that we could fit our porta power and bend it back into shape. so yeah big ol gap other side you could fit your fingers where the bumper wraps around the car where the side you can see (R/H) side is hard up against the rear quarter so i split the the bumper into pieces so it could be straighten out then placed one at a time on our pressing jig also made up some blocks of wood for underneath in the shape of the bumper. then spent a bit of time pressing the bumper then removing and checking and back in again. while this seemed like a straight forward exercise it took alot of time and we did it by using no heat as we didn't want to damage the chrome on the bumper and had a problem where the top face of the bumper would bend quite noticeably so while we had some pressure on the bumper we used a piece of wood and a big hammer and hit where the big bend was. This worked although it was time consuming as it had to come on and off the jig several times. Then this inner bumper frame was inserted in the jig and bent back into shape. This piece was alot more straight forward and less time consuming. we also had to bend out the corners of the bumper as they were set too far inwards but just did that using the porta power. so when that was done another thing i had to tick off the list for compliance was the rego lamp as when i went back for my recheck he said i had to have a rego lamp lense. would of been a whole lot easier if they had told me in the first inspection. not in the recheck so seen as the cost of a new lense and gasket was much the same cost of a new led generic rego lamp. so i went out and got one. sometimes its better to update and not continue fucking with old crap. although i should have got one from ali tbh. made a real average spec holder for the led one out of some panel steel. then painted it and fitted it. also gave it a bit of angle to face the plate. not really a nice tidy finish i was hoping for but kinda couldn't be bothered making another better one. so on it went. then placed the two halfs of the bumper back on and fitted it too the car. so now has some more even gaps and looks a whole lot tidier.
  8. super late reply but never late than never right so during my Christmas break well only the stat days i had off i made a start on the repair on the rear chassis rail. so to do this job the body had to be raised of the chassis on the back so the dog chilled out with me while pulled it apart on Christmas evening then with a few hours work and the help of the gantry crane the old girl was free we then cut out the previous welded piece out As some piss poor american had most likely arc welded it in before which then revealed this which as you can see by the photo that the rail is bent although both of them were. Now here is the part where you say this is a big NO NO and why the hell am i doing it this way. So we gave the chassis rail some heat to move in back into the right shape with the help of a hammer until we got the shape right. So the reason we did it this way as if we had used a porta power or chassis machine it would of had to be done with the body still bolted down otherwise nothing would ever line up again. which also most likely would of bent the chassis even more than it was but i figure that the metal was formed while glowing hot then was rewelded in the past causing it to be glowing hot then we played with it causing it to be glowing hot So really in my opinion it did not change the metal at all. And it had a big dent in the centre of the rail which had to have heat to get it out. Then after we did that we heated up the rail we had cut out and bent that back into the correct shape. Then welded it in. I then applied some anti rust primer and then followed with some semi gloss back. so the only reason the top got done is that it cant very well be seen and once the body is back on you wont be able to get any paint on it. Also note that none of the welding was done by me. my old man done it as he has done plenty of structural welding in the past on trucks and other equipment. plus 30+ years doing welding does help. now go and tell me how ive done it wrong here cheers
  9. so got my new Ali gauges mounted and wired up by @chris r and the oil pressure gauge is faulty so currently trying to see what he will do about it as he is playing the no reply game.
  10. TBH your logo needs to be airbrushed or hand painted onto the doors. would look lush
  11. this chipping away at this ol girl cut out this rusty piece of steel in the R/h front floor pan which had been bogged over. this piece has most likely rusted out due to a leaking heater. \ Used this piece of 1.5mm of zintech panelsteel. spend some time panel bashing it with a wooden panel hammer and sandbag and a steel hammer then tack'd it in with some more hitting with the hammer. Then faced my torch underneath to check for any holes welded the remaining holes up a few times and now shes air tight. just like AL's mum puhuhuhu will leave the welding on this patch as is for the moment untill she gets the all clear from the repair certifier along with no paint or rust stuff. also my aliexpress gauges turned up too pretty happy with the quality of them.
  12. Also 1+ on the powerfiles awesome for rust repair work ended up getting the black and decker one as have found some of the newer ozito stuff is a bit hit and miss but don't forget to stock up on the belts as they don't last long too. also liking the quick progress
  13. this^ i found not setting the speed so high helped with them not breaking. or might of been the change in brand...
  14. so one of the jobs for compliance was to do the L/R wheel bearing. so out came the driveshaft also popped the diff head out for inspection and out came the axles without too much trouble. so seen as this car has no drain bung for the diff fluid i popped the diff head of its seal and let it all leak out well you would of thought so... then with diff head out... the diff fluid had turned into some hard tar shit. the fluid had not been changed in a looooong time. half of the stuff that came out was a solid. also the diff head and axles were also covered in this crap. so took the diff head and axles into work and gave them both a good cleanup in the parts washer. along with fitting two new wheel bearings as may as well do both while i am in there. also made up some new paper gaskets for the axle flange. and got the diff head as clean as i could. must of spent about 3 hours cleaning all the hard tar shit that is the breakdown of the gear oil that was sitting in the axle tubes and diff head area. then refitted it all and refilled the diff up with some 75w 90 gear oil but will change it again after a few miles just to keep everything in there happy.
  15. Ive had to do this a couple of times now with customers who wont pay for a wheel alignment after we have replaced steering or suspension components. get yourself out a measuring tape and put one end of the tape in the middle grove of the tyre and run it across to the other front tyre into the same middle grove. so lets say the measurement is 2.300mm for example so now that you have measured the front face on the front tyres now measure from the back face of the front tyres in the same middle tread grove as previously. and lets say the back measurement is 2.400mm so the vehicle has 100,mm of toe out. so set the steering wheel straight. also do this while the car is resting on the ground. not jacked up. and adjust the tie rods until the measurement is the same on both faces or close enough. doing this should get it quite close and fairly straight. but wont be that accurate if your caster and camber is also upto shit. this pic gives you a better idea best of luck!
  16. The lower anchorages I believe are not factory. I fitted them as car came with none. the seatbelts come out of the bronze's 63 galaxie but his had the factory mounting points. but mine already had some holes there so I just used those holes and bought the correct plates and bolts to suit it.
  17. Thanks so being a pillarless there is no other place to fit a diagonal belt so it will need to keep its lap belt. Doesn't help that I've removed the carpet too so can this be done by having a cert plate on the car or a just a document to say so? Cheers
  18. 2 steps forward one step back. as some of you know already from spam this old girl broke down on me last monday on the mangere bridge which is a motorway and this old bus stopped in the bus lane. had been over at work aligning the headlights and getting some other bits done and was going send it back for its recheck. but ended up getting frustrated at the car and calling it quits and taking it back home to sit in the corner. and running the headlamps caused the battery to go flat so i jump started it and off i went. only got 5 mins walking distance till she died. so got my AA cover to come pick me and the car up and drop it at home. was lucky enough that none of the 3 cops that went past didn't stop as the towie said it would of been impounded as no wof or rego and 400 bucks in fines. got her home and charged the battery up and she fired up without an issue as i knew it would. but the carb on it is some no name 50$ napa auto parts POS. have had it off to seal a leak it had and have given it a good clean out but trying to tune it with this carb doesn't get me anywhere and still has a flat spot. so when some money is available that doesn't need to be used for compliance shit a new carb is going on it. was thinking an edelbrock 650cfm 2 barrel with electronic choke. was told edelbrock's are much easier to tune than holley's which i would believe. trunk floor that needs replacing has a few holes in it that could be reapired but the metal is pitted and its easy to just get another piece made. and this is the R/H front floor piece that needs replacing fairly simple shape so will start making it and weld it in. cheers mayte
  19. fucking sweet news! let me know if you need the shit dropped back too
  20. yeah pretty much the first guy that inspected it said it must have a 3 point safety belt. like what! its pillar less you cant bolt it to the roof. now they want a Lvv cert for the mounting points even when its got the certified seatbelt plates and bolts. like it wasn't even a factory option for front seatbelts it was an extra like who cared about that in 64. will just chuck in a high stop to keep them happy. then take it out when it has the sticker on the window sick of trying to argue with people who dont know the rules to start with.
  21. yeah defs i quite dig the colour myself. just needs a good cut and polish and remove the pealing clearcoat and it should come up sweet.
  22. so as some of you already know the old girl went through her compliance. so the morning i dropped her in for compliance the guy there found an issue within a minute the shipping agent in the USA made the bill of sale but they didn't spell my last name correctly but to make it worse they wrote it twice on the papers but with two different wrong spellings. duh! so i dropped the car off at my old mans work and went and saw a JP (justice of the peace) and got the paperwork sorted stating that they spelt it wrong etc. then the car went the next following week after nzta gave the okay on the paperwork. she went through and failed on a whole bunch of stuff lights/rear wheel bearings/power steering leaks/ headlight aim/seatbelt type/rear brake specs to be confirmed/weight of the vehicle/check engine numbers/brake imbalance. And some rust and a previous repair on the chassis to be redone. so at the moment most of the mechanical repairs have been done. so i popped her over toady for the recheck only to have another inspector check it and find more shit they want done. now they want a rego lamp lense/ a high stop fitted (doesn't by the virm need one) but you cant argue with them. and the seat belt mountings LVV certified. but ive also had the repair certifier come and inspect and document the repairs that need to be done so now i can start work on that. so it needs R/H floor pan repaired cut out and new patch welded in. Trunk floor pan cut out and replaced with new steel. and R/R chassis rail cut out tidied up check it is all square etc then welded back in. and clean up sills from previous jacking and leftover bog from repaint. so all of this will be done by myself and my old man. And i have till the 27th of feb for it to be done by. so now i need to find someone to make me a rear trunk pan. was going to use a person who made me a piece for the starlet but he went on holiday in November to ozzy and im unsure when he is back so will need to find someone else.
  23. keen but got no bike to ride. anyone got a spare bike/scooter they would let me ride for the evening? cheers Dylan
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