a.craw4d

Really? I've got a S13 Silvia that I converted ca18de to the sr20det. The sr came from a factory s13 and the conversion uses all factory parts. I was still under the impression I'd need driveshaft hoops for cert. PS, haven't been for cert because project lyfe.

But we all secretly love them. I may as well try put the final nail in the coffin so I can be the one who ruined it for everyone. In all seriousness though it'll have suspension and all the required bits n pieces to be safe and legal so I don't actually see the problem. Plus a low car towing a high trailer just looks stupid. Nobody wants to be that.

Anyone got a link to the rules for building a trailer? Also, is this leaf spring setup legal here? Don't know if it would actually work very well but it ticks the low box I'm going for. Might go something along the lines of this but mounted higher to achieve more low. PS, I don't care if it drags on shit

Don't know about what's available near you but my work has a special lathe set up for machining the face of wheels. On something like those I'd get blasted, a coat of black paint down between the spokes ( don't worry about getting paint on the faces, it gets machined off), get the faces machined and then a good clear coat on top.

Have just ordered one of these also. Will update once I've given it a good work out.

That boc smootharc 185 is a nice little unit. Have one at work and is nice and simple to use. I bought a strada? 200amp acdc machine. Goes well and has heaps of adjustments that I hardly use. Down side is it's big and bulky. It's probably the same as machinery houses ezitig 200.

Yeah I'd be scared of a plug set up as the wheel nuts would be fully located on the plug. You'd be totally relying on the plug to wheel join holding the wheels on the car.

What would be the best plan of attack to repair this? Three piece wheels have had the steel inserts removed and the stud holes slotted. I want to repair to original so thinking of a couple of options. 1- Weld up the slots, machine the holes and fit new inserts (if I can get new inserts). 2- Use the shank style wheel nuts and machine up a washer/spacer that locates on the countersunk and flat area around the stud holes but leave the slotted part as is. Thoughts? PS, I can weld ali and machine parts at little or no cost.

I've just used autosol metal polish in a couple of places I probably shouldn't have with great results (so far, may yet end up in the disaster thread). -Clear yellowed plastic, looks like new now. Will see how it lasts. Unpolished headlight. This one looked clean and clear before I cleaned up the other side. Side polished with autosol. -Powder coated motorbike wheels, have done a small patch and looks really good. It has removed crap that carb cleaner and petrol wouldn't.

Love the car. And +1 for keeping the paint scheme. I learnt to drive in my Dad's 510. Later on I bought myself a factory original one from an old couple in Christchurch who'd had it from new. I foolishly sold it because I didn't want to spend the dollars to fix the rust it the rear gaurds, rest of the car was surprisingly straight and rust free. We all make bad life decisions sometimes but you sir have not.

What'd you use to clean up the wheels? Looks good.

It'll just run rich for a second after it has blown off. Otherwise it'll be fine. On a manual it'd make a little pop on gear change, sometimes a small flame out the tail pipe. Looks and sounds good.

Shit that looks good @shizzl. The back looks like it could come down a little more but it doesn't stand out as obvious either. Might settle down a bit yet. I love how tough a car can look with some wide steelies and decent low.

Will be rolling the guard lips but keeping the exterior factory. Haven't finished the suspension set up but the rims should be very close to the guard and I don't want any tire protruding past the rim. Have searched a few tire manufacturers and seems I can only go down to a 195/45r15 on a 15 x 7 wheel. Need to find some pics now of that wheel and tire combo to see how it looks.

Yeah I have that sheet. Trying to find if something narrower than a 195 will fit.

Sorry but this has probably been covered a thousand times, had a quick search but came up with nothing. Where would I find tire manufactures fitting specs? I've got some 15 x 7 wheels and want to run a skinnyish tire to keep it under the guard. Is there like a general bridgestone (or whatever brand) spec sheet or do I need to search every individual tire I find?

Thanks @cletus. The wheels in question are 15x6 and 15x7 with +50 and +11 offsets respectively. Is offset even noted on the plate? Because there's a big difference on how those two sit.

Probably been covered a million times before (and my apologies) but can you chuck almost any wheels on a car and not need cert for them alone? But once certed you're bound to the wheels when cert was issued? Also is it possible to get 2 sets of wheels certified on the same plate? I'd love to be able to switch back to factory wheels sometimes. Yes I'm weird.

Here's the arse view. From this side both tire guys thought they were rear mount wheels. They however weren't rear mount and tires were removed from the front. This is all new territory for me as I just thought wheels were wheels and there was no front or back in regards to mounting a tire.

Don't have a pic of the back side but it has like a 2 inch parallel dish then steps up. Something to do with that. Had to take them to a second place to get the tires removed as the first guy said about the backwards wheel and his machine couldn't grip it. Second place had the same machine and did the job fine in front of me but they also said they thought is was a backwards wheel going by the profile on the back. I'll go get a pic soon once the kids are in bed.

JWL. Is that the little symbol I always thought was a funny M? Anyone clued up on wheels and tire fitting in general? @spiderwebfx? @MACKAZ? The tire guy thought by the looks of the wheel on the back indicated the tire should be removed from the back. Wasn't the case but he said they were a weird set up.

Wasn't sure where to ask this so I'll chuck it here. Mod's please move or delete as you feel fit. Can anyone identify these wheels? 15x7. 4x114 +11 offset. They say performance on the front and that funny little "m" symbol. No markings on the back. Also the tire guy that pulled the tires off said they were a weird set up, thought they appeared a backwards wheel until the tire was off. Any OS opinion's? Edit. Sorry the front face is on the RIGHT in the above picture. I picked these up cheap and I'm guessing they might be some of China's finest.

What hubs are you running? Sorry if you've already said but I missed it. Are s13 discs and calipers an option? I'm sure 14's clear them and with decent pads they're a very capable brake set up.

And another bugger. Although this one's a birthday present so birthday ham close to christmas.

Made a Christmas ham.