h4nd

Looks interesting. You can't now rotate them outward into a wider V to smooth the airflow?

Good point, I had already done that to a Raum (which got stolen). They are available in warm white (~4300K) instead of daylight. Also, this raises the question: How few 18650's will start it? Just 3S? maybe need 3S2P?

Left the interior lamp on. Oops. Worth a crack. Yeah. Nah.

Left field options: 1/ Run Alt off driveshaft 2/ ditch 'leccy starter, use compressed air reservoir into inlet(s)

Partners immovable carnivore diet just collided with an unstoppable Gulab Jamun dessert. Messy Oops, not spam. Who'd want a little 'cArduino' in a die cast alu box, for controlling just a couple of things, like fan / window wiper intermittent, maybe electric park brake?

^ this. The best power output for a solar looks like this: Made up numbers example to show a point: So e.g. a 144W cell (for instance) might make 12V at 12A = 144W. This means you have a R=V/i = 1 Ohm load (heater) If your load is too low resistance, the voltage starts collapsing as you pull more current e.g. at 13A draw, it falls to 4V =52W If your load is too high resistance, the voltage climbs just a little, but you aren't pulling best current from it, e.g. 13V, 4A (3.25 Ohm load) = 52W So far so good, but, the point on the curve where that peak power is, moves as the amount of light on the panel changes. An MPPT controller (Maximum Power Point Tracking) controller diddles the draw to keep the panel at best output. (stolen/summarised from https://www.pveducation.org/pvcdrom/solar-cell-operation/iv-curve) Now, if you have couple of devices on the same panels, (e.g. also grid-tie inverter) they may (probably will) interfere with each other and get septic. You could run a heater off your 230, but only draw the amount extra that the grid tie would otherwise expert - i.e. Power Point Tracking - but flying in formation with other peoples gear is a bit of a PiTA, and prone to weird interactions and failures - and you'd have to have a variable Ohm heater (yeah, nah). WAter heater has MPPT, and diddles the output voltage to get the best(-ish) efficiancy. OR, just set the heater Ohms for mid/hot day, and have a go! (cheap)

Got end on pics of plugs, and pin pitch measurements? Digikey has a good selector / finder: https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/filter/terminal-junction-systems/422 or more likely https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/filter/rectangular-connectors/rectangular-connector-housings/319?s=N4IgjCBcoBw1oDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbXADYBOAJkoFYQBdAgBwBcoQBlNgJwEsAdgHMQAXwlA

Depending on how much solar you're wanting to chuck in, these controllers are pretty cheap and will PWM convert from what the panel gives you to 12/24V https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/caravans-motorhomes/parts-accessories/solar-panels-accessories/listing/4139869517 ... Actually on 2nd thoughts, although MPPT will help get the best from the solar, most controllers are set up to deliver best amps at 12/24V, whereas you're wanting to get best energy at whatever heater resistance. Oh, here we go, MPPT water heater controller should do it: https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-mppt-solar-water-heater.html

Dat dizzy. Whoa!

.PNG is a good format for drawings, it compresses without blurring the edges. Looks pretty good pic.(not +ve earth like Morrie which would have generator not alternator ?) edit: wow, nice work on this old beastie! editEdit: Might be possible to separate the trafficator stalk solenoid from the lights, and put a blinker on the lights? (will need to check / limit the current in the solenoid, might need a big fat series resistance, or a current limiting switch mode power supply)

That's awesome ... totally needs buttons to do a shred.

Did you set it up at 4pm?

Have at. I guesstimate it'll work fine/better with that, or no resistor at all. (more RF noise, more spark duration). From memory ign Rs are kinda 10 or 20ish k Ohm?

Yep, but Digikey far and away has the best part selector, and delivers in consistent (moderate) timing. Mouser is good for x-checks against all the above, good for certain parts.

Ordered from Element14 (last night), they were claiming overnight delivery from Sydney if ordered before 6:30pm. BUY NOW! DHL just chimed in to say, yeah, nah, Thursday good bro? Suckered.

I just used KiCAD to knock out a sneaky little facia plate thingy, will see if the DXF export suits Anton's CNC import process

KiCAD. Spent 20 years using protel 98, am pretty quick with the built up muscle memory. KiCAD is now good enough, has good and improving libraries, and is free. ( @chris r )

These are 10A, there's others. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002338207839.html

Stand by charging (float) for e.g. house battery, with a top up setting for occasional Boost / equalise to help prevent sulphation. This is a cheap crude approximation that's likely better than most single Voltage only chargers. There's actually quite a lot of detail in charging batteries, including Different V, A for different types the correct voltage changes with temperature. Boost equalise time can depend on how discharged it was before charging etc YMMV The placement of the ammeter is an illustration which measures battery current only, so if the battery is charged, most of the current goes straight to the load (meter reads low current).

Have someone lined up, thanks @ajg193 for the reccomendation.

Oh, and 2T nangs, because company policy.

Hi all, I'm a bit overloaded to get stuff out for end of month: I have some light fab, electrical needs doing for a couple of days. I'm making a (mostly 12V) control sets, and need it copied 2x. It's just 'copy this', find tools and have a go setup for the mo. Prefer someone who can do the self employed (pay own tax to IRD, it's easy to set up), but flexible. You need to be safe with tools, and reasonably handy with stuff. $30/h ish? Unlimited coffee. PM / TXT 0-- --- ---- Wayne / h4nd

Ohhh, no no no no. My list contains better than new spec top-o-the line Nichicon or better caps. ... unless you're implying the new China heads are all that?

I made a spreadsheet of good quality replacement values