chris r

Just stick a bulb in series lol

I rangid the gauge in with only the best twisting and taping I could manage. No leaks which is good, only 20 psi which isn't.. Its meant to be about 40, I'll pull the vacuum line off the regulator tomorrow and see how it goes. I'll organise a fuel filter and see if that helps. If not I'll pull the tank out and have a look. I REALLY hope it is just the filter and not the tank sealing kit coming off and clogging stuff

I drilled and tapped the fuel rail bung so I can chuck a pressure sensor in it to see if something is playing up. Slapped some goopy loctite on and I'll leave it overnight to chooch. A blind man wouldn't be happy to see that shit. Not quite at ms paint/graph level of datalogging but we'll get there one day

kfc is down hill from our place so I don't even need to start it to get there!

I was lazy and swapped coolant temp sensors. I checked the tps settings and they were slightly out. It is heaps nicer from a standstill but will still hesitate and no vtec. Tomorrow I'll tap the bung in the fuel rail and put a pressure sensor in it to check that side of things. It'd be nice if I had a wideband but I don't so I'll check everything else

Soaking in oil/atf? It was not smoking like it was running rich. Not much smoke at all. It also explains why it wasn't happy when it was warm

I borrowed a compression tester and confirmed my gut feeling Front rotor I slowed the second vid (rear rotor) Anyone want to buy a van? lol This has gone waay down the project priority list now

Bloody good point! It does seem to do it at certain times too, it could explain the lack of vtec too.... I'll have to get around to getting the Bluetooth datalogging installed, it'd make my life easier

I drove the crx to work for a week and it behaved nicely. It has a intermittent stumble/hesitation when taking off and won't engage vtec. I've checked the wiring side of things for the vtec and it's all good. No fault codes at all which is good and annoying. I'll rangi up a oil pressure gauge in the rail so I can keep a eye on the fuel pressure so see if that is causing the hesitation. my gut feeling is a loose/poor connection or broken wire somewhere in the loom. I have found a supplier (r.s components) that carries the ecu plugs, turns out that they are fairly common things. I'm planning on getting some cable from work and re doing the engine loom on this as a practice run then re do the shuttle loom (and the rx7). There are a few joints and potential failure points so if it's all new I won't have to worry that side of things. Thoughts on using a 2 pair shielded cable for tps & map, I know running current through the shield is a no no if it needs to be shielded but if it comes out of the factory with three single cables it should be fine right? The TE Connectivity part numbers for the ecu plugs are 174514-6, 174515-7, and 174516-7. The terminals are 175061-1 and 175026-1. They seem similar to the fd rx7 ecus and some others but I can't remember what model car it is.

Here is a link to the injector plugs I'm pretty sure someone else on here recommended them.

I initially went out to the garage to pull the injectors out so I can get them cleaned at some point, as usual I got carried away and decided the loom needed some attention as well. The injector plugs were shit and falling apart, as was the tape holding the loom together. Only the cheapest finest aliexpress injector plugs and tesa tape will do. There is nothing like a relaxing few hours playing with wiring.... (I do actually enjoy it) @yoeddynz Very kindly loaned me his copy of the factory wiring diagram so I was able to identify which injector plug was which. I owe you a beer or three for that! You can see the general shitness of the tape and plugs there Like any barry instead of doing it properly and replacing the plug and wiring I patched it up with more wire and a few layers of heat shrink That was the state of the plugs. The mazda pins clicked nicely into the aliexpress connectors too which was good. only one needed to be cut off as the wire had a few splits in the insulation which I wanted to heat shrink Man barrel crimps are so satisfying when you get them right, from a distance you can pretend they came from the factory. After I replaced the plugs, identified the injectors and partially taped them up The worst bits of the loom have been repaired and I'm happy enough with it. Eventually I'll completely redo the loom as lots of the insulation is getting a bit hard/brittle

not yet...

Polished timber floors look a million times better than carpet imo

My aliexpress hei modules turned up. I ordered a couple so I have a spare. I pulled the module off the injected 202 dizzy I had and re crimped some plugs to suit the hei module. It should work the same as the original module and when I eventually get the megasquirt I'll just wire up the 4 pin plug and will have everything I need. I will need to cut a piece of aluminium to act as a heat sink/adapter for the hei module as its slightly larger then the original

shit news! Good luck and I hope the insurance don't dick you

Fuck yeah it is really satisfying! The 17s kinda suit the rough bombed black look. Long term plan (it probably wont happen) is to paint it the original colour and put the 15s or 14s back on. But first of all i'll get it to engage vtec, daily it for a while to find any niggles and stick it on the dyno to get tuned. Then probably crash it

I though I'd have a go at being a locksmith today as I didn't have a key that worked in the doors. It only took a hour which I'm pretty happy with. I had to sacrifice three locks to get the right combination of wafers but we got there in the end. Barrel out And coded to the key I gave it all a grease and will install it soon I smashed out the passengers side lock in about 15 mins, Luckily I had enough of the right wafers from everything to make it work. It looks like there is no central locking on this so I'll see if I can steal the latch I kept from the parts shuttle and make it fit

What do you need done?

I remembered ness has some 17s she had on her civic with good tyres so I chucked them on so it wouldn't understeer and kill me. Dylan stripped the shit tyres off the 14s and I'll tidy them up one day. He also chucked it on the alignment machine and it's heaps better to drive now. It is strange driving it as my eye level is about the same as most other cars doorhandles. I don't usually like 'bigger' wheels but these are ok and I don't hate them.

The dust shield is no longer touching the rotor. Wof acquired so I'm happy.

I took the crx for a quick drive to see if i had fixed the grinding noise and I have improved it. The dust shield is hitting the rotor a bit so I'll try tweak it out of the way in the morning. I had another attempt at bleeding the power steering and the pump is quieter now too so I'm happy with that, I think there is still a bit of air in the system though. I just need to replace one indicator bulb and I'll take it for a wof check in the morning. The tyres that came with these wheels are shit and are stupid in the wet. I have some hopefully less bad ones I'll get swapped over until I can afford to replace them with something decent. It looks so small next to the van.

Sweet thanks. Saves me some wiring

just brainstorming/making a start on the list of stuff I want to do no order yet regass aircon vsr/2nd battery extra interior lights/leds and wire off 2nd battery clean/polish/wax everything diagnose/repair oil pressure gauge coolant/trans fluid replacement. oh and oil+filter reverse/work light for the back/side pedo spec tints figure out how the cruise control works slightly less shit speakers in the doors and replace the 6x9 in the back. possibly mount the head under the passengers seat so I don't chop the dash up and ruin it, while i'm there wire it up to the 'house battery' so can listen to music/leave shit on and not worry about not starting. Figure out where the long earth cable is meant to do double check voltdrop/earths on motor as its slow to crank sometimes. (and test battery)

archers can re make a leaf for me. I think I'll drop both leaf packs off to them so they can give them a once over. Any tips for realigning the diff when it goes back in? I'll wait until I actually have some spare $$ before I take the springs out. I had a quick look at the drivers side headlight and the adjuster is stripped. I've ordered some from rock as they were cheap. I found a pdf of a tilt column rebuild and it says allow a day, with my current mental abilities I think I'll pass on that for now. I'll wait until I can think/concentrate for longer before i attempt that. I'll have to write a list and prioritize what I want to do as I'm very scatterbrained at the moment and can't seem to choose a task to do/keep jumping from task to task. The joys of head injuries. From what I have seen so far for compliance I need to sort the leaf springs, test/fix the windscreen washers, align/replace headlights, bleed the brakes and possibly a high stop? I heard/read the rules were changing about pre 89 high stops? Can anyone confirm/deny

Archers said they can have a look and make a replacement spring, I'll probably pull both leaves out at some point and they can check both. I'll leave this here so here os I find it later. Headlights h4 semi sealeds because the current ones are a bit shit and if a bulb blows you can nearly always find a H4. One of the adjusters has a stripped thread so its pointing at the ground