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chris r

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Everything posted by chris r

  1. Time for a front end refresh on the orthia All the ball joint bolts are split and needed replacing. Got passenger side upright/knuckle out along with the the upper control arm. I grabbed a energy suspension urethane kit. I really like them /rate them. Have them all through the shuttle New ball joint and boot in the upper arm. Bit of heat and encouragement and the inner part of the bushing came out Pressed in the new inner bushings with my press tool Managed to get the lower ball joint out of the knuckle but haven't quite got it sorted yet.
  2. Spent some time this afternoon attacking the rear cv shaft It didn't want to play nicely Remembered I had that nice press thing which did the trick Replacement pick a part cv shaft with non split boots
  3. That will work too. Depends if you want a 'fan is actually on' light or a 'fan switching circuit okay' light
  4. Revthe fan Switch side looks good/it'll work as drawn @sr2what do you want the light to do? If you want it to indicate when the fan is running then connect it to the 30 terminal of relay/in parallel with the fan itself If you wire it as drawn the relay/fan will always be on as it'll earth out through the bulb
  5. Been working night shifts so haven't had much daylight to do stuff. I haven't been awake when the weather has been good enough to paint to no clear coat Got a few mins today. Found some nuts and bolts in my box of bolts, drilled and tapped the strut towers And brace is fitted Paint isn't perfectly smooth and you can see a few sanding marks but it's good enough and will get scratched etc etc in time so I'm not too worried. Also found a cheap factory dual runner intake manifold to play with for another experiment.
  6. Picked up a cheap strut brace the other day. It was wrinkle red and I couldn't handle that much extra power so gave it a quick sand and paint
  7. So replacement spring has done the job and no issues so far. Popped into pick a part and grabbed the tank out of the shuttle there to replace my rusted one. Figure no rust + a soldered hole is better than Fucking around with a rusty tank. Also grabbed the d swries/shuttle output flange from the transfer case a quick rough measurement suggests the shuttle driveshaft might fit the orthia but I'll need to change the flange to suit Swapping to the shuttle diff shoul get more clearance with exhaust and hopefully stop the rattles
  8. One of the springs in the left hand drum fucked out and it was locking up in reverse. Got the shits with them and started re looking into disc conversions again. Found a old forum post that someone drew up/3d printed a bracket. Send the file to my mate who printed it Attacked one of my spare trailing arms and got the wheel bearing/backing plate out and test fitted it For some reason I hoarded everything except the rear discs off the integra I parted out. Caliper almost fits But parking brake mechanism hanging off the back hits the trailing arm Looks like people in the states butcher the arm a bunch to get it to actually fit. So I went to pick a part and grabbed a spring to replace the stretched/damaged one
  9. Other side done Thought I'd change the fuel filter but the one from rock auto leaked. I thought I was going mad/more mental when I was checking the oil and the dipstick was in different positions. The tube was loose and came out Have it a degrease and slapped some black rtv. Back in the hole and hopefully it stays there now
  10. More maintenance. Fitted new adjuster bolt and lock thingy on the right hand side today. Will do other side tomorrow Doug approves
  11. Would a external module work eg the bim023 (assuming your going wasted spark)
  12. Found a piece of Ali in the bin someone had tried to dc tig with stainless filler rod and started on a bracket for the throttle cable Cut a angle so it'd clear the carb and let me access the retaining nut Have it a quick tickle on the sander to try and make a bit of a curve. It's still miles long as I need to have the ute handy to see where the throttle actually wants to sit
  13. Thanks! I was hoping something like that existed
  14. Rough idea I have for idle control is a inline style motor off a bmw/euro thing. Should be able to hide a hole in the manifold and air cleaner base fairly easy. I know port injection is much better overall but for learning/playing around with tuning the single point/throttle body will be good enough to get started
  15. So a package arrived from @Raizer today with some adaptors. I chucked some studs into the manifold to test fit everything. Must have been a Friday manifold or the work experience person had a go at it as one stud is on the piss So of course the nice straight holes in the adaptors didn't work so they got some love with the file Yes the holes for the tbi until aren't a perfect match but at end of the day A it's a 202. B the manifold runner lengths aren't close to being even C it's a 30ish year old throttle body and injectors Throttle linkage clears nicely on tbi. I'm hoping the falcon throttle cable bracket will be close enough to work with then existing throttle cable I test fitted both adaptors and they fit nicely enough so went fully barry and loctitied the studs in along with nuts and washers on 3 of the studs (4th is too close to the runner) Carb fits nicely now. I'll trim the all thread a bit shorter and loctite them in I'll get it running on the new carb and dizzy then start mucking around with getting the ecu schenanagins installed and will do spark control only while I piece together more injection stuff. Still need to figure out some sort of idle control as the falcon setup isn't a option as its two big solenoids that hang in the way. I'd also prefer something a bit more refined/controllable than a on/off throttle opening
  16. I needed to order some woodruff keys for the cams and ordered new drum adjusters at the same time as I'm sick of re adjusting them/the old ones were worn and a bit stripped Will install them at some point and hope I don't have to touch them for a long time now
  17. My mk2 exhaust fix was good but there was a annoying rattle in reverse which I thought was a diff or something. It did end up being diff related but not seriously. The snout of the diff was moving down in reverse and hitting the exhaust. Can kinda see how close it is here I was under the car doing some other stuff and could easily move the diff enough to hit the exhaust by hand. So original mounts were pretty soft. Since the mount worked so well barry me decided to try do the same with the diff mounts. Put the jack under the diff and raised it up. Took the washers off and cleaned the mounts as best I could in place Filled them with schmoo Let it sit overnight supported by the jack. Much higher and it doesn't move by hand anymore It's been a couple of days and no more rattles so far so let's hope it's fixed
  18. Fitted the blue tach and speedo (I didn't get the odo lined up perfect so it'll have to come out again at some point for another attempt) unfortunately it's a auto only option so the black manual fuel and temp is staying. It slightly hurts my ocd but can't do anything about it The new rock auto engine mounts were a bit soft/the engine was moving just enough to be annoying. I don't want to splash out on after market mounts that'd make everything vibrate annoyingly so barried some urethane in the rear mount. It's been a couple of weeks and it's not vibraty and annoyingly moving so that's a win.
  19. I'm guessing the same thing re the cams. I bumped into another orthia foamer at pick a part who had some rare parts so I grabbed them off him The type s/highest trim spec had fake carbon trim on dash with blue instruments and window switches etc so I grabbed them and a rear cargo boot net thing. I'd grabbed this steering shroud from pap a while ago and finally installed it along with the carbon cluster trim Cleaned the shifer boot surround and replaced the black/rusty fasteners with stainless
  20. Fanciest part on the whole ute No blocking of the power valve with this adaptor Carb fits perfect and everything clears I messed up the drawing/one dimension on the base and it's about 10mm to long. Plan is to get the bit cut off and welded back on and hope it stays straight enough. If not black rtv will fix it
  21. Currently has the b18c cams that came with the head. My tuner has done a heap of b20 vtec builds and said the b16 cams have a bit more power/midrange and they pick up power with intake cam advanced a bit
  22. Got some b16 cams and cam gears from the tuner for a good price I've ordered d the woodruff keys and will need to find some time to swap them over then can go for a tune and hopefully get some more killer wasps/atleast fill in the midrange dip
  23. Screen shot of vid showing the adapter model. Should be ready this weekend but I'm working so won't be able to collect it for a bit
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