smokin'joe

unsure if it would matter. i'd be guessing that anyone with a yard full of gear will be sub-contracted in. omms up there is apatchy as power is still down in many places. My sister and partner got choppered home to Kaikoura yesterday. house is all good but everything else is smashed. might head if up the call arises.

after the rumble I slept through last nite, there'll be an imperial fuckton of work for you. trying to decide if I can bullshit enough to head up there if the current house purchase falls through

what struts are you using ? if you decided to use Nissan struts, then there is you main problem......... fit Toyota ones with RCA's

leave my lawnmowers out of this........... unless w cut one up for eats

you reckon, very similar weight to a complete, dry manual V6 Commode motor with loom and bell. sub 200kg on a pallet . but back on topic, bored and stroked 2tg on sides for period doorts

define "light as hell being full alloy" love to know the composition of the crank/flywheel/cams and rods

2tg on sideys.............. keep it period

I believe Clint is referring to re-fitting the rack offset to cure a fuck-up made by pushing motor too far back. OP have 3 options really 1. move motor forward to get clearance 2. return the shell to steering box set-up. 3. get a real engine

but hang on, you are not the first person to install a rotary into a corolla, and I bet (or I fucking hope) they don't fuck with the rack to install the engine. what parts are contacting ?

one does not need to fuck with the rack. I put you wrong earlier, rally car has TE71 X-member with KE70 rack mounts and rack, (AE70 unit is in spare shell) the RH engine brace is easily modified by machining (or grinding) the bosses off then counter sinking the holes that attach it to the block. get countersunk cap screws(may need to have heads turned down) to replace standard bolts. the bolt that retains the steering U/J to the rack is replaced with a button head cap screw in doing these 3 things, 15-20mm clearance is achieved taking the brace off allows the bell housing to flex, with inturn stretches flywheel bolts, resulting in flywheel walking off the crank. VERY FUCKEN DANGEROUS !!!!!!!

what motor are you running? I have 3T with AE70 x-member/rack and with some minor re-work, clearancing the lower steering u/j . what ever you do, DO NOT run it without RH bellhousing brace, as you will fucking regret it very fucken big time !!!

so not the Tanner saw bench and planner , currently at $102 ? can paste link, as computer is being a dick !!

haha, just found the said machine and asked a question or 2 for you. good solid machine, but current owner seems like a complete twat.

Luke, make sure it's got 6 inch blades, anything smaller is a waste of time. I had a small Masport/Dyco 8 x 4 and was hopeless. 8" blade would stall and 4" buzzer bed was too short. doweller was OK, tho.

have a look at the end grian of the lengths. ensure they don't run the same way when you glue them up. how long are the lengths ?

got thicknesser buzzer etc down here. you could laminate them to 150 wide, them fire them over buzzer to get 1 good face, then block laminate to 4hundy which is my thicknesser width

column change Toyota commercial box ??

what fuel pump are you running ? is it fitted with fuel pressure regulator ?

a side on photo will enable ID'ing it. if it has a cast steel main case, it will most likely be W40/50. if alloy, a photo is needed to ID it

was advised to use it for very low temp panel welding............not a pro welder, but seemed to create far less heat related distortion than either co2/argonsheild with MS wire

interesting, i was told i needed to use str8 Argon in my mig for using silicone bronze wire....... might have a go with argon sheild next time i am doing thin panel work.

is this to run a hoist on single phase ? if so, a colleague has just done this and had a huge failure

shit bugger damn. run it up and down a few times to see if it was just residual fluid.....nope, still pissing out. pulled ram apart, main pressure seals quite skody, rest not too horrid, will replace is cheap enough.

righto, been back on this contract as finances allow. plumbed up single stage ram with home-built trunnion mount, all good, but need to get more fluid. as the pump only allows for gravity return one-way ram, i have fitted a silencer to spare port to keep dust and shit out and to prevent air-lock ............... any issues with doing this on a 2-way ram ??, as it seems to be pissing fluid out of silencer, and wanted advice before i rip the ewe-rooter apart incase it pushing past the seals.