Jump to content

SR1978

New Members
  • Posts

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

SR1978's Achievements

Member

Member (2/5)

47

Reputation

  1. D-day/week, second week of January and the mission was on had a week to fit engine/box, get the car rolling, panels on and packed up with parts to roll into a 40ft container with the Mrs' ke20 for their journery to Auckland with all our other crap. Borrowed some ae85 struts off a mate as the coil overs still aren't finished and fitted them up with ke35 top hats to get the car rolling. Quickly primered the insides of the doors/boot/bonnet to fit up and painted up the block with engine paint as well as the rear half of the box. Reassembled gearbox and fitted some ta22 engine mounts to the motor (the shorter ones) that I had picked up a while back. Also finished brake/fuel lines under the car etc and fitted tidied up genuine toyota brake master and clutch master/slave. Engine went in like a dream, the ta22 mounts put the engine nice and low in the factory position on the te3# x member and the factory te3# gearbox x member lined up perfectly with the rear pair of the 2 lots of x member holes in the body, forward position shifter also came straight through the factory hole in the floor. Just had to dig some factory filler stuff out of them and it bolted straight inreally happy everything fitted together with factory sourced parts and I didn't have to hack anything up, I also have three T series drive shafts of different lengths, I haven't tried yet but hopefully one goes straight in and I don't have to worry about modifying one. Engine cleared the added rack and pinion perfectly too which was awesome because I really didn't have the time for big backwards steps. The only real set-back was I had originally fitted a larger 3t corona front sway bar which fitted together on the subframe sweet but fouled on the castor arms when I slammed the car back down so it was swapped out for a factory ke35 one for now, motor still clearances it fine but it looks a little funny as its tiny and offset for the lean over K motor. I'm hoping to find something to replace it at some stage but I'm not sure yet, either find and try an ta22/ra28 one and see if it fits or hunt out a te3# one from the states. Anyway most importantly plenty of room either side for dellorto's and high rise headers With that the car was ready to be packed with parts and loaded up, both cars made it safely to Auckland without any damage and it's good to have them up here! Still mucking around with my track car but that'll be out of the way soon so getting back into this in a big way. Aiming to finish the car this year, really have to stay motivated and get it done!
  2. While working in Auckland purchased a polishing kit and filled in some weeknight boredom with polishing some stuff I had bought up from chch, Polished the bellhousing for the t50 with a couple of other bits and when I was back in chch one weekend polished the head on the motor to get the 'unboltable' bits done and clearcoated before the engine had to go in the hole.
  3. Carried on tidying up the front end got carried away and ended up sandblasting the lot, spent hours using a mates sandblaster which was pretty small but did the job in the end. Instead of just painting everything back plain black I decided to hunt out a different colour for a laugh, after everything had been etched and primed I settled on a ducati subframe bronze which I had mixed up then paired it with some sweet matte clear. Came up really good the photo's don't really show how the bronze came out at all but it's sort of a metallic but matte, it will probably get scraped to shit with the car being so low but oh well. Also fitted new nolothane throughout the front, looks pretty good re-assembled and fitted got it finished right before I went up to Auckland to start working around October last year. I really just have to finsih the front suspension now which only involves purchasing some new inserts and getting someone to tig the platform thread onto the shocks for crack testing then I can paint and fit.
  4. In between panel and paint also did a bit of mucking round with the front end and steering, the car always suffered pretty bad from sloppy box. No one likes sloppy box.. So instead of replacing the the steering box with another that was probably going to be just as bad I decided to convert it to rack & pinion. After a bit of measuring it was decided that a kp starlet rack was going to be the best option, so collected the bits then had Todd (Driftnmaz) graft the rear half of of a starlet x member onto the te3# x member mounting the rack and mounts etc into the correct position, he also modded the pedal box for hydro conversion while he was at it. The finished rack enabled x member turned out awesome, really stoaked with it, the starlet rack was paired up with a late ke70 coloumn which fitting for cert also included fitting the factory ke70 firewall rack entry hole and the factory bolting points for the rack into the factory firewall. The end result was tidy and maintains all the factory bolting points for the steering coloumn so I hopefully shouldn't have any issues come cert time. Also scored some ae86 p/s knuckles so the steering has a bit of extra lock if I ever need it I guess. It's all bolted together steering now and works like a dream, I used late ke70 rack ends but they only just fitted so may need to look for something longer.
  5. No doubt missed a bit but build thread up to date now; //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46931-sr1978s-78-ke35te37-levin-project/?p=1465282 Need to stay motivated and get this piece finished! Marcus
  6. As mentioned on the previous post I made a couple of small mods to the body before painting the inside out as I was keen to get this car as low as legally possible, retaining the solid rear end as it wouldn't seem right going IRS with a car that was never meant to be. I'm still working through the suspension side of things so will post as I progress with them, have some mostly finished nice low front adjustables ready for crack testing and some heavy rear leafs a friend was using in his race car to repack with my centres. Once I trialed the ae86 rear end it became pretty obvious that the car needed to be lower than where the diff sat legally so made up a notch for the diff head and had a friend weld it in to get the needed 40mm travel/clearance for cert. Heaps of clearance for the diffhead now but the housings pretty much sitting on the chassis rails, I still want it to end up around the height of the third pic but to go lower but I'll have to look into notching the rails too so need to look up what's needed there/what I can do for cert. I'm also going to be running a lower profile tyre than whats in the pic so will get some more low there but I've been trying not to rely on that. I also ditched the longchamp'ish wheels at some stage when I sold my old carina wagon as I couldn't bring myself to part with the ssr Jilba racing that were on it. 14"s of course, the front are factory 14x7.5" -10 and the rears are re-lipped 14x8.5 around -20. They really suit the car and I'm happy I kept them for it, the only thing that bothers me is the re-lipped pair have a slightly different step in the dish compared to the original ssr lips up front, I'll hunt out some original lips at some stage as even though no one ever notices this bothers me heaps.. I also picked up a stainless drop tank for the car cheap off trademe, cut out the spare wheel well and plated it up but it hung dangerously low once the car was back rolling so added some 3" box section to raise it up but as always this just created more work. I had planned to just fill the tank inside the boot and make up a splash guard/funnel thing with a drain around the filler but raising the tank left zero room for that so I opted to make a filler behind the number plate which ended up consisting of the factory filler tube from the rear pillar, some 3" pipe to the panel and a bit of stainless 2" bend dropping down into the tank, I'm using a Torana flip down number plate holder on the outside and just need a 2" 45deg fuel proof joiner to finish it off.
  7. Carried on working through the joys of fixing more rust inside and out, finally after lots of welding, bare metalling and por15 I got the car to the stage it is panel wise now, the outside is still primer which I'll have to take back completely before I go further as its been on there for a couple of years now. After the mods for the drop tank and diff notch I also fully undersealed the car and all inside the guards etc and the entire interior/inside boot has been sprayed 2k black throughout. For some reason when tidying up the engine bay I decided to start shaving a few things in the engine bay and got carried away. This is a stupid idea. Don't ever do this. I suppose it looks good now its finished but the lengthly process of adding steel plate everywhere, then nutech, hours sanding the nutech and a final skim of bog is not cool it takes months longer than expected and will eat your soul.
  8. Around the same time I started the mission of hunting out the Levin parts for the conversion, sourced them from all over the world; Japan, Peuto Rico and the US (The US guys love our NZ spec bumpers and are always down to trade parts for them!) So far I have the te3# bonnet with the large offset vent, bonnet chrome to match, te3# xmember, Te37 tail lights, JDM Levin grille and Levin script badges. I'm still hunting the JDM guard badges (Levin lightning bolt) and a proper Grille badge which is the same script font but slightly bigger (I have two boot ones) and the elusive roof consul that these came out with which contains a map light and 70's style 'OK monitor' I'm being pretty fussy with this build so I won't be fully happy until I find the last few bits, I'm sure they will be out there I just have to get on the hunt again. I've also spent alot of time collecting other main parts for the build mostly locally and some from Japan, a bit of a list from memory; Te71 2tgeu 262 head model, rebuild previously with mild cams and porting, older script style rocker cover swap 40mm Dellorto DHLA carbs and factory toyota 2tg intake mani T50 with forward position shifter Ae86 T series disc rear with TRD 2way Ae86 vented front brakes and struts (currently building into adjustables) Ae86 disc handbrake cables e3# cusco strut brace and camber plates Ta22 alloy rad Genuine toyota clutch master and slave (Now rebuilt) 2tgeu excedy clutch Large drop tank (who knows why..) 2tg unknown japanese extractors Fibreglass lip and ta22 duckbill that I need to mod to fit ex. japan 'straya spec' rear window louvres Various factory ke35 parts that were better than what my car had originally; interior, chrome etc (Like a whole car worth haha)
  9. Discussion Thread Hey guys, My names Marcus, lived in Christchurch for the most and know a few of the Chch OS guys but have recently moved to Auckland. Have been a member for a few years but first time posting one of my projects, since I'm coming to nats this year I figured it was about time I did one on my bucket of bolts. I've had the car since 09' and dailyed it for a couple of years before pulling it off the road from what started with the excuse of " I'll fix that rust and re-spray it something not blue" It was around this time I discovered the T series powered ke35 variant and became hell bent on building a replica, maybe the only one in NZ? Some of this build thread will be out of sequence but I'll do my best to group the areas of the build separate to make it simplier until I get this thread up to date. Here's the car before it got pulled to bits, some of you may recognize it from back in the day, it has the plates SR1978 (Govt. issue fluke not personalized) and was paper certed in 1998 for all the mods it still had when I bought it, It's been a bit of a slut previously, from memory I'm like the 14th owner! Used to see it around all the time before I bought it and in the time I had it on the road I've had at least two people spin me the 'I used to own this car back in the day' yarn haha As I metioned before the car started off with rust work, there was alot of bog filled holes under the paint. Replaced sections of the floor, sills, drivers A pillar and several other area's trying to use cuts out of parted cars where I could to retain factory swages etc. Around this time I also found an obsession with wide 2/3pce japanese wheels and so had a local guy who was good with steel and had played with guards before do some work on them, mainly the rears which were cut from the inside about 20-30mm back from the guard lip to keep the double skin for strength and lifted up for more clearance the re-welded, the guards were also pumped massively to fit some 14x9 F1 racing? (similar to longchamps) that I had at the time, I was super happy with the end result which allowed me to run the wide wheels I wanted but also retained the factory lines which was something I really didn't want to lose.
×
×
  • Create New...