shrike

Any up rated CR with the change in head? does it feel quicker to the butt dyno What was the tuning method/ecu your doing again? Assuming wof wont be an issue?

Wonder if there is any off the shelf option from another motor Or anything fun on aliexpress Was it ca18 pistons in a 4k or something like that, maybe it was Honda ones I can't remember "Rzcrew Garage - Forged Pistons 76.5mm - 8:5 to 15:0 Compression Ratio - Toyota - 1NZ-FE - RZ-FP-1NZ-FE - 8:5.1-75 - RZCrewEurope – RzcrewEurope" https://www.rzcreweurope.com/products/rzcrew-garage-forged-pistons-76-5mm-8-5-to-15-0-compression-ratio-toyota-1nz-fe-rz-fp-1nz-fe-8-5-1-75?variant=18299895775343 15:1 605euro :p

@Romanmaybe you could look into forging your own pistons like Burt Munro? "They were hand-cast using sand from local beaches in a variety of receptacles, including tin cans. They were then painstakingly finished with file and lathe,” Pretty sure you could improve on that with some 3dprints etc for molds Break up some broken pistons to melt down etc

All the side feed injectors I've seen have been a pretty standard size dimensionally. I'd be looking at subaru side feeds probably 550cc ones would be heaps for what your doing. 4age silver and black top injectors are also sidefeed (310cc) Sr20 injectors are another option (370cc for the turbo ones I think) these are shorter then 1jz sidefeeds.

The big Ford Territory SUV with the Non turbo Barra do like 10.2L per 100km for the 2016 model

Lots of compression and remove weight?

Curious on the choice behind 8.5:1 Compression ratio for the build but keen to see results My AE111 Levin project has the 370Z rear brake setup with the Akabono rear calipers (GT4 rear hubs, toyota highlander bearings/driveflange (5x114.3) a hub ring to center the rotor on the drive flange and then an adapter for the brake) went this way as the internal handbrake on the GT4 and 370Z was similar/same size (cant remember if I worked out it could just factory GT4 shoes or if I needed to add some more lining) Pretty sure I brought the bits before I knew that rock auto was the go but I didn't think $330 was bad for rear calipers back then (2019) https://www.jegs.com/i/Power-Stop/419/S6182/10002/-1?trk_msg=J0VUDM8LCMF4B3PL9EC2QDMGQO&trk_contact=PHST57KEHEJ4JHTH6OUCNU8TO8&trk_module=tra&trk_sid=63E1DGRI1NVOMSC6D65SIEB518&trk_link=1E1GAD39M374BBES33HDTMRMI8&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Product&utm_campaign=Transactional&utm_content=Order+Confirmation Or are you looking at the 370z brembo option?

Weld the hole up?

So are you going to make a claim via the Contract and Commercial Law Act 2017? Sounds like the guy is just scum and took advantage of the current car market, highly doubt anyone in the UK would have paid what he was saying he could get etc if they would surely he would have already jumped on it

Coolent temp sensor, ecu retarding timing until it comes up to operating temp, can always test the sensor and or just unplug to verify If the temp is no good it wont know its warmed up

Hope you are going to investigate putting a sump/bash plate on?

Is the main issue that the carb fowls the cab in its current location? My first thought is low profile efi conversion, but I know you wanted to stay carbed. Anyway to remote mount the carb? Sounds like a good reason to go remote mounted turbo with a suck through carb How much dies the cab fowl on the carb/ top of the engine? Could you raise that part of the seat/engine cover up? Can you remove any material on the heads/cam covers to lower the engine more?

Should post a video of what it's doing in the base tune that @Studid for you. Did it still have issues once you fixed the timing/sensors? When I had my r32 I once plugged the injector loom in backwards so it coughed and spluttered but didn't fire.

So looks like they don't clear the evo front brakes. Seems evos had 15" minimum size so I'll either need to get some 15 or 16 inch rims or put lancer brakes up front for a rwc. Or just see if I can pass it with the 17x8 wheels

Got some factory 14s $400 with tyres Hoping they clear the front evo brakes (they are gsr wheels) if not might have to get another set of wheels or get some lancer Front brakes

Ae111 rear calipers have a cable handbrake (are common calipers on corrollas so heaps of stock) Could probably go to a 270mm if you needed also pretty sure you can get rhe discs undrilled/they should have enough meat to Redhill

Hows the flywheel looking? Lots of hotspots?

Sorry if I missed it are you swapping box and motor from the crv complete or just taking the box?

Not sure if anyone would notice a electric column tbh it's all pretty hidden :p but yeah fair point, did you get a new wof so its 6/12months future you problem?

Or an opportunity to get an electric power steering column to modify and fit? (Pack the factory steering rack with grease). https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/

Right thread Sounds like a good mission, going to do another trip for a gearbox and axles etc? $250 is a good price, I probably would have just done basic maintance (waterpump etc) for peice of mind and sent it. (Dealt with a headgasket if it happened) but at least you'll know the condition and hopefully won't need to do much to it. Surprised pick apart only has one lift, all the ones here have multiple. I've been running Diesal oil in my fake evo 4G63T and it's slowly cleaning out all the varnish/oil sludge crap etc not that I've run it much mind. Assuming your not going to strip/clean/hot tank everything

Lotta kms csn they be wound back?

Well that sucks, any options to go to a 2l bottom end? I remember my dad/step mum had an awd mazda wagon with a 2l goldtop in it. (Think fhey also did a ford version as well) whst are the piston specs any alternate option's.