shrike

No plans to convert to electric power steering? Ie from a newer corolla, echo , vitz, prius or GT86/BRZ?

I stand corrected good to know there is an option but gosh your right it's not a cheap exercise

Don't DI engines tend to have carbon build up issues on the valves? Also I'm not sure of an aftermarket ecu that runs direct injection but I could be wrong They also run alot higher fuel pressure (mechanical fuel pump at the rail?) From what I've seen DI and Port gives best of both worlds if you can run it properly Guess it's another failure point however

Why not get rid of clutch fork and go to a concentric clutch release bearing?

Didn't @chris r get some jets from Aliexpress or am I thinking of someone else?

I've got Unimig gear, havent had an issue but I don't use it that often https://unimig.com.au/product-category/equipment/tig-welders/?pa_welding-processes[]=ac-dc-hf-tig Not sure if they sell it in NZ though

Assuming your going to tig up the hole? I have the feeling its not going to be a fun job

2zz-ge into an echo 122kw and 162nm atw, @Romanwhat was your final dyno number? https://www.facebook.com/100075883510301/posts/288421180363997/?mibextid=Nif5oz

Was doing some reading (I'm in the airport waiting to board) Apparently solid lifter conversions would allow circa 500rpm more (if the hydraulic lifters have issue) but would reduce cam duration so would need lager cams to compensate. And fully agree on weight reduction helping to reduce mass/friction at higher RPM Been interesting reading about if certain engine parts will be able to lubricate correctly at the rpm your aiming for. Are you planning on opening up the bottom end and doing any mods or is the plan to just run it stock and see what happens?

Any valvetrain conversion options if it's the limiting factor?

Do you need to have the oil distribution block on the sump to be that size? Could you make it lager off to one side and tap for fittings off to the side instead of have it out the front? Or do you need the lines to be from the front?

Can't claim its a factory hole then? like the one to the left? anyone got a dimple die you could use to make it look more factory?

Whats the specs compared to the b20?

How easy/cheap is it to get spare heads for these? Any cheap dead motors around that you can play with first?

Center bore hub rings are pretty easy to get whats the size you need?

@Romanits the circlip mod as a base line 500nm or around 400hp, shotpeening is also involved https://neatgearboxes.wordpress.com/2014/04/16/nissan-silvia-s15-6-speed-gearbox-circlip-mod/ Neat do it over here but im sure someone in nz would

I'd be hesitant to slot flywheel bolt holes, could probably get them welded up and then redrilled though. How much shorter does the rad need to be for the hoses to line up? Could be worth seeing what other models may fit

Are you not going to need efi for the swap anyway?

Apparently 775kg stock so 400hp would be nuts power to weight even with a heavier drivetrain. Assuming it's the 1.6L I wonder what EFI and a turbo could do powerwise on that. Not sure if the factory gearbox would handle much extra power however. The Brumby I think had a similar box in it and took a moderate amount of power. Edit: later generation Leone's had the EA82 and EA83 1.8L (also a turbo varient) Would possibly be an easier update till you build a better option

Curious on the measurement between frame rails. And engine bay dimensions, if it was me I'd probably look at a turbo EJ but a turbo FA would also be cool. Depends on budget and pricing/availability of parts. 5x114.3 and big brakes would also be on the list depending on how much it weighs however. Assuming these are solid rear end?

Got it upto about 400Kw with everything maxed out lol

So I'm still tipping 200kw+ not sure what the factory rods are like, but not sure if they will do 10k rpm guess it depends how heavy they are and how well its balanced from factory I am assuming you'll do valve springs as a minimum and be going for custom exhaust/headers might even crack 220kw atw (would love if it got more however :p) Whats the harmonic balancer/engine dampener weigh? and are you going to run many auxiliaries on the motor? I've been having a play with the Automation game and well some of the figures aren't super realistic it can be an ok guide/indication sometimes Couldn't get down to 83mm bore (84.4mm smallest I could go) but with cast rods/pistons it was happy with 8400rpm, would say 9k with the smaller bore is reasonable ITBs, exhaust etc (with springs) it did 270kw at 10k rpm lol which Im not sure about, might upload something later if you want a laugh?

Yeah think the ebay listing is wrong. Also don't BMW use plastic sumps

You can also look to go remote oil filter, probably worth adding an oil cooler as well. Is the oil filter built into the sump? Front/custom sump maybe the way to go. Could you 3d print a sump and then get sheet metal etc to weld one up? https://www.ebay.com/itm/325352398654 is this one different from yours? Actually how different is the bolt pattern on the sump if you wanted to run it backwards, (could always modify the pickup) Modify or use and adapter to run the sump as a front instead of a rear?

So back to the 2AR as an alternate again, depending on height to fit. China/Russia/Thailand got a 6AR which is 86x86mm (2L) how would a crank from a 6AR (sourced from thailand) go in the 2AR as a destroke from a rod to stroke perspective? Custom rods maybe needed or to raid the parts bin ror something suitable Looked at the new corolla engines (m20a) ?