shrike

Rear abs sensors bolted up Diff fluid changed Transfer case drained (bolts don't look the best) Propshaft in except the centre bearing looks questionable so ordered a new one, I also don't have the hanger mount bushings/bolts so will go to the wrecker this weekend and grab some off an outlander. Haven't tightened the bolts to the diff yet either. Will fill the Transfer case up tonight and might do the gearbox fluid as well. Ordered some 52mm guages direct from Autoguage so will see how long they take to arrive Boost, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp. I've got a dinslot cover with 52mm holes so will mount 3 there. And I've got two 52mm brackets ill put on the steering surround. Already have a wideband to go in once I sort the exhaust. Probably need to go out and get a metal cut-off saw as I am not the best at cutting a straight line with the grinder haha

Really need to take some pics I have started to fit up the lancer wagon muffler, didn't fit at all but not surprised. Have cut off and then re welded one of the factory mounts. Cut the 2nd factory mount off and replaced it with a bended piece of rod from bunnings. Still got to either extend the last mount or replace it, then cut some more of the inlet pipe to the muffler and the pipe to the flange to get the angles I want. Also need more rubber exhaust hangers and to see how the rest of the exhaust fits up (need to put the prop-shaft in first) pretty sure itll need to be modded Still waiting on a 2.5-3" adapter and my 2.5" flange before I can start the front up pipe Going to get the 2" to bolt up to the front pipe in the same place as the 3" exhaust all going well, once I get it legal ill put the 3" back on and then start to change it to suit what I want. Probably a new rear muffler and an added center muffler to get it to a more reasonable noise level Front splash guards back on, also managed to get the lower ones from pickapart, need to finish mounting and put the wheel on (the front calipers I got from rock auto) Other side done with the new center cap on So much room for brake activities (need to get the ap racing ones back on) New wiper blades (windscreen needs a clean) Mounted the resistor pack for the injectors on a bracket I got for the emissions from pickapart as no idea where the factory evo one goes Got some new return line that I need to hook up-to the hard line (will prime the fuel lines first however)

So quick update, spent 3 hours and a 2hour round trip last Saturday to get some parts Grabbed fuel lines out of a CC lancer wagon, they aren't identical but with some gentle bending and some new fuel hose I have all the fuel lines in with the fuel tank, just need to hook the return from the engine to the hard-line and its all done. Managed to keep the diff in (lowered the rear sub-frame) and get the fuel tank in Need to bolt the rear abs sensor cables in but otherwise they are hooked up Bled all the brakes, rear passenger side took ages Clutch clevis and pin are all in with the clutch all bled, might need to adjust the rod to the master cylinder once I get it running but feels good so far Have also put a charcoal canister in from the lancer, will have to play with the vac lines and solenoids I have. Not sure if I am keen on having one between the fuel reg and intake manifold :s Also got one for the Turbo but I may not hook that up at this stage (need to get a t piece anyway. Will take pics later Need to put the steering column back in, the passenger side inner guard liner and front passenger wheel (with center cap), put the rear wheels back on Gearbox, diff and transfer case fluid replacement. Prop-shaft between the diff and transfer case. Exhaust (I grabbed the 2" one of f the lancer wagon that ill modify for now) Front up pipe and cat Inter-cooler piping Radiator piping Front lights, bumper etc Finish the rust repairs in the back and paint Fuel (prime the fuel lines), Coolant Then I think I can start it, bled the cooling system, put a permit on it and take it up the road for a proper wheel alignment as the one it has atm I eyeballed :p it may also need the suspension raising as well Might need smaller rims/new tyres for a rwc as well but will see what the tester says, still need to put all the interior (Carpet) back in as well Getting some progress

So in the bung on the cat before it goes through the cat material? I can add another bung before the flexi or further up the pipe if need be, its a 200 cell cat so hopefully not to much restriction

Few updates, will do more after the weekend Installed the Evo Cas I had, head looks a little varnished :s also need to get a new cam cover gasket but that's a job for another day also need to glue the cambelt cover back together (also going to order a new one) New inter-cooler turned up its a 530x233x70mm and fits fine with a Lancer rad support, still not sure if evos don't have a support bar there or not (ive got the cut-down ones to use later if I want) just waiting on a piping kit to turn up for it, should do fine with factory TD04HL power Battery mount all done and installed, need to check bonnet clearance however Front brake rotors on, Tie rods on (need to tighten the inner nuts) all ready for calipers when I get the bolts Exhaust gear is slowly arriving, waiting on flanges to arrive before I start mocking it up 200 Cell 3" cat will probably put a 3" flange on the opposite side to the O2 bung 3" flexi to help prevent cracking of my dodgy welds :p (ignore the feet) Probably do something similar to the below config, will shorten the 90 degree pipe to suit, will have a 2.5" to 3" adapter at the top to suit the factory turbo dump pipe So will weld the flexi to the cat and the exhaust pipe, have a 3" tri flange on the cat and that will bolt upto my 3" exhaust, I also may get a factory 2" lancer exhaust and put a 2-3" adapter on the end so I can get RWC but will see how I go Need to order some silicon joiners and alloy pipe to make the radiator pipes Not sure if I mentioned but I sprayed some start ya bastard down the throttle the other day and it wanted to start when cranking so thats a good sign Pretty sure it just needs fuel to go, coil has power, injectors have power, MPI seems to be working, can get power to fuel pump when cranking Once I get it going with the cas thats in it ill see if I can get it going with the other two sensors, also need to see if I can get it running on the Teensy powered Speeduino I have

Anyone know if putting a wide-band just before the cat will be an issue? trying to keep the factory O2 in the dump pipe at this stage Something like this, will be shortening the 90 degree pipe however

Hey guys been years since ive played with fibre glass, keen to extend part of my fibreglass front bumper so it mounts to the support bar and also help alittle with guiding airflow airflow Will post some pics tomorrow, thinking ill make a cardboard template in the shape I want and then just fibreglass over that? Open to better ideas

Quick update Replaced the low pressure power-steering return hose (brought a roll of the stuff as I couldn't get a short amount) so I can now replace the power-steering fluid when I get some Motivated to do some more welding after seeing updates of the FC on @rotorhoe instagram and the rust repairs. I brought a tig torch for my Unimig 185 only to discover it didn't fit so will go return it tomorrow. So I had a go at making a battery clamp as the one I have doesn't fit the battery, still need to clean it up, drill some holes and paint it but itll do the job Welds are pretty shit but they are solid, worked out I can mig poorly if I actually use the recommended settings for the material I am welding Due to being encouraged by the above attempt I finished welding up the boot holes, upped the amps and wire speed to match the settings my welder recommended for the thickness of the boot and had greater success. No pics as I need to clean it up with the die grinder and a file first Realized part of the reason I was blowing holes was due to not getting enough wire in to fill up the hole (was using the lowest power setting and the lowest wire setting previously) Still need more practice, I'll be welding base plates to fence posts in the next few weeks so should give me some more time on the welder, hoping Ill be able to do an ok job on the front pipe of the exhaust when the parts arrive

Had another 30mins under the car, if I barely thread in the bolts on the rear gearbox mount and tilt the engine forward with the jack etc I can just get it all to line up Missing a few bolts so will have to wait until I can go to the wreckers to do much more (hopefully on the 15th) and then once I get every thing in place I can start tightening it all up

So tidied up some more wiring today, also give it another crank and it spins over all good. Still unsure if ill use the Evo Cas or keep with the RVR setup (guess it depends what I can get to work) cant hook up fuel till I get fuel lines, and I need to test if its sparking. Ordered a whole heap of silicon joiners and the parts to start making a front pipe, the exhaust I have for it needs to have a center muffler added and maybe a resonator but will sort those out later. Exhaust 2.5" flanges 2.5" to 3" 3" 90 degree 3" by 6" flex joint 3" 200 cell cat (with 02 bung) 3" triangle flanges Might need some more straight pipe or a 45 but will work it out once I do the first bit Intake 2.75" T clamp 2" T clamp 2.5" T clamps 2.75" to 2.5" straight 2.75" to 2.5" 90 degree 2" to 2.5" straight x 2 Will start mapping out what inter-cooler piping I need Inter-cooler I have won't fit with a factory Lancer bumper support so may need to look at another option

So started doing some wiring Plugged every thing in that I could, removed the plastic injector cover and some tape so that I could get wires to go where I needed (ill re tape/sleeve and put the cover back on once everything works) Went looking for the starter motor wire which had been cut and was a fair way up the loom, grabbed the cable off the dodgy loom that came with the aftermarket ecu, temp join to make sure it worked. Managed to get the car to crank on the 2nd try, first try hadn't grounded the starter properly and it just clicked. Which lead me to pull it out and manually test it. Loom was also missing the reverse light plug, stole a knock sensor plug off the spare auto 1.8 GLXI lancer engine loom I have and wired that in, again just temp to make sure they worked, will get some proper connectors to join them later on Seemed to work fine when I put the car in reverse ( I also put the selectors and clips onto the gearbox cables so can change gear etc missing a few split pins that I need to buy) need to replace the drive-train fluids though Not sure what this plug is for (suspect its for aircon) its next to the washer bottle, need to do some research Also no idea what this one is for it comes off next to the reverse switch

Ok few more updates Got the front coil-overs back in, replaced the last boot on the inner front right cv and put both cvs back in. Not sure if I put the abs sensor wires back in properly so need to check that Went to put the tie rod ends on and seems I have been sent the wrong ones Messaged the seller on ebay so hoping I can get a refund, have ordered another set from another supplier The evo loom I brought from NZ that was meant to be uncut has a few minor issues, the spare RVR loom I got with 3 factory ecus is going to be a lot of effort to get to work and as my evo loom has already been cut I will repair/mod that. Have a new Cas plug to go on as the cas plug is broken but I may just rewire it to run the RVR 2G style crank and cam sensor on the other side of the engine. I have an evo cas but not sure I want to take the rocker cover off at this stage.

Once I get it all running and rwc/rego ill be building a 4G69 Bottom end for it to swap the head onto (or getting another head/motor) so will clean it up properly before it goes on the new motor Thought the Diesel oil would be ok and hopefully it cleans the engine abit, was going to run 10w40 but 15w40 should be fine for now

No oil showing on the dipstick however this is what came out of it So sweet f**k all, will put some Diesel oil in it for now (put the whole 5L as ill see if any leaks out) turned it over by hand and engine turns over and feels like it has compression so all good Also dropped the front CVs and a set of evo 4 abs rings to my fab guy hes going to heat the rings/freeze the cv stub axles to get them on, he may need to take some material of the rings ID as well Evo 4 abs rings 43 teeth(Reluctors) are 65.95mm ID and my cv joints are about 67mm OD im using RVR axles/cvs and the model RVR it come from didnt have abs. I could get the next gen RVR (1997-2003)cvs with abs rings as they are the same measurements but trying to keep with the parts I currently have as they are in ok condition Need to replace one inner boot when they come back and then I can reinstall

So as posted in the spam thread How dodgy is using Diesel oil in a 4g63t? Currently has no oil in it, unsure if its leaked out or if my mate took it out. Don't want to put good oil in it until I go to run it but not sure if I want it to have nothing in it/want to see if I can find the leak. Looks pretty clean in the head through the oil cap other then the varnish Also have some Oil came with the house lol Heard diesel oil just has more detergent so might help clean any shit out Plan is to run 10w40 in it when I get it running.

Surely someone has a broken C series box that can have the diff be donated to the cause and get locked :p actually wonder if any pickapart has a box I've only got E series boxes these days

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/diffs-axles/listing/2839812080

Are spare gearboxes cheap? Could always weld the diff up :p

I also replaced the steering rack bushes Have a Manual Turbo RVR loom on the way with 3 RVR ecus. The auto RVR loom I have came with the dash side plugs (with pigtails) and I have a Auto 1.8 GLXI Lancer loom that ill steal the correct dash plugs from so I can make a quick patch loom Means I can get it running on a factory ecu for rwc and rego and then put the Speeduino in after Will need to get an OBD1 (or it might be a OBD11) plug and cabling from the wreckers as I dont seem to have one Need to get the front axles/cvs back in (still need to do one cv boot and put new abs rings on) new tie rod ends, front knuckles, front brakes. Front cross member Bleed the brakes Have to get fuel lines (or I may make some) put the fuel tank back in, which may mean I need to drop the rear end out again :s im getting pretty quick at doing it though. Probably get my fab guy to do some welding next week (depending on availability) Put the steering column back in (as it was clunking when I put it in today so pulled it out again) Sort out the cooling system and intercooler piping, a front pipe for the exhaust. Also the exhaust it came with needs to go as its pretty much a straight pipe (need to buy a cat) Then front end back on hopefully Also discover the engine has no oil in it so new oil for the gearbox, Diff, Transfer case and Engine. (I'll crank it over to get oil pressure up before I start it) Might pull the stump and reseal it before I do so, head looked pretty clean. Not sure if the guy I brought it off dropped the oil or what. I suspect my mate who had it at his place may have done it and not told me

Was a real pain to get the gearbox on with the clutch on :s Top tip remove all the gearbox mounts before you start (not during) Brand new clutch fork (bet my other one turns up now)

So Cracked it and this happened Clutch slave is on need to reconnect the braided line and get a clevis so I can bleed it Starter motor is on, couldn't find one of the starter motor bolts so unsure what the bolt I used was meant to to be on but will work it out later.

Test fitted the gearbox and worked out how the clutch slave goes on Put the flywheel and clutch on Arp bolts to 95ftlb with locktite and the arp grease under the heads Clutch pressure plate bolts to 22ftlbs Aligned with an alignment tool Checked the electrics work, passenger side window doesn't go down. Rear drivers is slow. Dash works, lights work etc and no smoke. Tipping the controls need cleaning/replaced. Ac unit and clock doesn't work so will need to see if I plugged it back in. Put the last of the wiring back to factory, need to work out the starter motor signal Removed the throttle cable as I'll be using an RVR one to match the motor

Public holiday tomorrow so weather dependant planning on sorting a few more bits. Ordered a few more parts from Meek automotive as I can't find my clutch fork and that's what's stopping me from putting the gearbox and engine back together on the bay Once restrictions ease ill go raid the factory fuel lines out of a lancer wagon along with a few other bits. Current thoughts are to get it running and see what it needs for RWC before next steps. Still need to confirm all the wiring works as well

Space savers to go on the rear for drag day? 3 nuts per wheel instead of 4 :p ice on the ITBs? Rear and passenger seat removed 1/4 tank of fuel remove the battery and start with a jumper pack? lower the front tyre pressure to get a better contact patch and increase traction

Used the grease trick to remove the auto Spigot Bush Collar from the back of the crank (its originally an auto motor from an RVR) will put the flywheel, ARP flywheel bolts and clutch on when I get a spare minute. You can also see the brand new spacer plate for the gearbox/starter motor installed Painted some bits Also pressed in new lower ball joints, found some extended ball joints from Fatboy racing that correct lowered steering geometry so will get a set of them at some point. Need to do another coat of paint on them as well (some came off when pressing in the ball joints) Not sure if ill get much more done this weekend but at least a little progress Also most of my parts arrived from Amyama if I hadn't already mentioned Waiting for lockdown restrictions to ease (mainly the 5km rule) so I can go to the wreckers, need to get a clutch master cylinder pin and clevis so I can attach it to my clutch pedal along with some other bits I am missing Fuel lines, emissions gear (maybe) bolt for the fuel tank, bonnet bolts, foot rest Also need to order some hub centric rings (73.1mm to 67.1mm) Considering some more factory wheels too but will see if I can get through a roadworthy without Hesitant to put the motor back in until after I get fuel lines sorted