bigmatt4

18 hours ago, shizzl said:

What’s ya thoughts if twin 40 dellortos on a ae86 bluetop bigport motor?

 

never seen or heard of any dump figures compared to an injected motor.

 

 

 

ps I had a ae92 fxgt with redtop small port motor, lived on the limiter for 2 years/100,000kms before I sold it.

only ever killed a clutch plate(spring broke).

That was a great car

i have 45mm dellortos on my stock smallport seems to go well but never had on a dyno to no actual numbers

1 use the gze clutch and pressure plate on mine running w55 gearbox. you will have to clearance the bellhousing for the gze setup to work as you can see in this pic

Bro soo stoked for you b such a long time in the build makes the first drive a treat. Looking forward to a cruise on full doorts well done brother 

i normally remove the dizzy and spin it with a drill instaed of cranking the engine then you can hear the injectors ticking if they are not i would suspect the distributor to be a fault . also check for a 5 volt feed from a sensor to make sure the ecu is actually powering up

On 12/12/2019 at 19:28, johnny.race said:

How wide is the diff?

 

1360mm wide

I found this in a paddock scrap pile any idea of origin 

this is what i used works real well we had tried the howe bearing in my mates r154 box but if failed so we started using these three yers down the track still mint

i can get new aftermaket senders 10ohm full  180 ohm empty should work

might sound silly but try unplugging abs pump/ecu as these are common for failing blocking up the canbus lines stopping communication between ecu's

i live in matas bro sus me if you win auction and ill pick pack and send no worries

marty4certs@xtra.co.nz  027 446 6443 is a GC to deal with

Following this mine doing the same on the right rear (bf2 wagon) i keep blaming the kids for not shutting the doors properly but dont think that is the cause. I know when i had the tinted windows done there was rust inside the door panel on left front from passengers mirror leaking as it had a broken clip but fixed that.

Actually just went and had a look at my wagon and lifted the carpet in the rh rear and found a little stream of water running down the wiring from the door loom in B pillar will investigate further.

got a pic of the alternator?

do they not go to the gearbox on the motor for the wiper park switch rite fully if you put power on the green and ground the white with black the wiper should run but wont stop at the bottom of the screen when turned off my guess it the red and black are for the wiper park

Crank hitting sump maybe 1300 sumps foul on 1600 engine just a thought

Ha ha wtf you no what I mean

Hard to tell. Might be best to give illuminati aliens a call and talk to Justin directly.

haha auto correct was ment to be LVVTA

this

 

what would be my best option i have been told that my brake pedal has failed.

got this email back from illuminati aliens

 

Unfortunately this extension wasn’t granted.

 

From the photos submitted, Justin was able to see that the brake pedal doesn’t meet the HCTM requirements for being fail safe in the event of weld failure.

 

so i have to find a new certifier with 1 d qualification  my options are construct another pedal up to the requred standard or scrap the lot and fit a wilwood pedal box  which means building a bracket to hold the pedal box as well.

does anyone have a copy of the hobby car manual about brake pedal construction? trying to weigh up my options

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

what would be my best option i have been told that my brake pedal has failed.

got this email back from lvvta

looks like a waste spark ignition setup of some sort not factory by the looks

http://www.autozone.com/ignition/heat-shield-sleeve/thermo-tec-1-4-to-1-2-in-i-d-x-7-16-in-o-d-x-12-ft-thermo-sleeve/398816_0_0/?checkfit=true how about this sort of stuff