Ja1lb8
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Posts posted by Ja1lb8
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Have some faith, That pic does give a bit of a scewed perspective mind you, the bottom of the shock sits 50mm off the ground with a 17" rim ,with a tyre on there its easily over 100mm of ground clearance
Well make the bottom A arm just as i made the top one except using bushes instead of rod ends and slightly different mounting of the ball joint to give more clearance
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Been spending a bit of time on this lately , tryna figure out where the steering columns guna go/clearance around exhaust ,turbo,engine mounts etc, got a chevy tilt column on its way that I got cheap off tard me
Fitted the accelerator pedal
Got side tracked and started working on the front suspension again
First took the bottom arm off and fitted some brackets to hold my airbags,( well be making new tube A arms eventually)
Lifted it up till the arms were where I want them at ride height and then fitted a piece of steel tube to simulate the shock/springs at ride height
Then made up the top brackets out of cardboard
cut them out of 3mm plate and tacked them on
well box them later
Boned out
Was searching the interweb looking at different gauge clusters for my dash wanting to do something different
Quite liked the look of 55,56,57 chev truck gauges and found a few on ebay US , mentioned this in passing to my dad and he sez hang on, ask your brother and it turns out he has a spare one sitting in the boot of his car as you do, he was travelling through last night so he dropped it off on his way
Not sure whether to run it above the steering wheel or in the middle of the dash
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unsure about the rest of it but this shouldnt matter as their pedals are in the same order
Edit, sorry was referring to the 90degree setup where on a lhd car the booster and m/c point to the right , on a rhd car this would be hanging out the side of the car somewhere
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Hey guys
Spent hours today tryna nut out where to put my brake pedal and steering column and decided the brake assembly has to be mounted under the dash either in a 180degree or 90degree configuration
Anyone out there done this before?, have been looking at pics on the net, I think most suitable is the kugel brand 180degree pedal setup but opposite to suite a right hand drive car as there made for the us market
I want to get this right first time as ive never really been happy with previous brake setups on cars ive had
eg too much leverage making the brakes too easy/no feeling or front rear bias all over the show
Using factory toyota century 4 pots on the front and 2 pots on the rear
Similar to lexus v8 setup
Factory pedal ratio is approx 3.2:1 with a 9"vacuum booster and 1"master cylinder
It also used to incorporate an abs unit, Im unsure if that altered the front and rear bias at all
I need a longer pedal then factory because of the layout of the car,ie getting it all up under the dash, and I think making it with a 6-7:1 ratio should achieve this
Unsure whether to run unboosted brakes because of the extra leverage , also running two seperate master cylinders with a balance bar becomes an option then. This would be ideal to adjust front and rear bias as ill probably be running different diametre wheels front and rear and want approximately a 60:40 brake bias
I welcome anybodies thoughts/experience on this subject
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sounds like some good progress, cant wait for some more pics of it all primered up
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SETTLE DOWN BUDDY, SETTLE DOWN.
Dear uncle ray ray, go get your eyes checked, your are clearly blind.
Regards, Thomas.
xoxox
I offer my deepest and sincerest appologies to any that i may of offended (Thomas) ,On second thoughts it looks much closer to a 240z
PS you gunna be home around around christmas, im coming visiting
Ray
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Finished off the back section of the floor, unfortunatly it had to have those sharp bends in it to fit the contour of the chassis and i couldnt come up with a different way to do it without cutting up the chassis which i definatley didnt want to do
The seat sits directly over the top where the round part meets the square part so it should hide it I hope and carpet well do the rest
Still gotta put some more bracing on the underside and drill and fit a few more brackets where it mounts to the chassis
Planning on using this bench seat which im told is out of 1939 chev coupe, has a split folding back which lets the rear seat passangers get in and out, gunna take much modifying to get it to fit and work over the tunnel tho
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Or you could just buy an e type jag and put a toyota badge on it
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Thanks for the kind words
fitment of that bell housing cover piece is impressive to say the least!
Yea I fucked about with it for ages to get it right
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Made up the floor section that goes over the bell housing
Managed to put in the compound curves without cutting or welding it using a shrinker/stretcher machine
Worked better then i thought it would
Made up a blank using cardboard then copied it onto some panel steel and came up with this
Test fit, A bit more massaging and it fit not to bad
Punched holes right around it for spot welding
Welded in place, well take a few hours of grinding to clean up all the welds bit that can wait till later
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Dear uncle Ray Ray, you do great work, you should be well chuffed. Shits looking good man!
I was talking to this guy, whos name I cant remember, he has the old celica with the v12 and viper manual, and he was also slapping a few turbs on his one. The word on the street is (and you may have already covered this) that these bad boys cant handle any more than 6psi, so I guess this is what ya'll be running?
Just gunna run all the factory actuators and wastegates from the 2jz which well be pushing the limits but should be alright, Its cause the compressions up around 11:1 might even be 11.5:1 cant remember and the rods arent all that big either
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Yeah nah that's the one
Probably looks a but like this one aye
Good mate of brothers , names simon
Looking good ray-dog, you should go column shift for sure. Depending on space its easier to do with a linkage, check out some factory column shifts for ideas, they are real simple.
pulled out the toyota floor shifter last night for a look and not keen at all , column it is!
Accelerator pedal on the other hand looks like its made for the job, toying up whether to use the fly by wire throttles which would mean fitting the all the rest of the accelerator sensor linkage thing, Gunna use a link which says it well support fly by wire but would pay to ring up and ask to make sure
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Been working on the floor, got the front part of the tunnel in and the floorpan area where the driver and passanger put there feet
Tipped the body shell over on its side and welded some bracing underneith, no photos but well get some next time i turn it over again to do the rear half of the floor
Next up is to make the part that covers the bellhousing , Also working on fitting the accelerator , shifter and brake pedal, not sure whether to run some sort of under dash brake booster setup or under the floor, under the floor would be preferable but im a bit squeezed for space there with the exhaust, Also wondering bout fitting some kind of column change cable operated shifter to free up room on the floor
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Discussion thread > viewtopic.php?f=18&t=32726
Wasnt really happy with the swage lines on the firewall so cut the top section off and made a new one, came out much better
Then seam welded it in and spotted it from the inside
Next welded in the recessed part off the old firewall
Next job will be to put some bacing in under the floor and build the tunnel and the front floor section
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Discussion thread > viewtopic.php?f=18&t=32726
Removed the body from the chassis to make it easier to do some of the panel work and also finish off the suspension and crossmembers
Well eventually roll the body over on its side to finish off underneith
First up roughly cut the bottom off the back of the car so I could test fit the replacement panel up to see where to do the final cuts
Tacked it all on, got this neat little air tool thing that I used to punch holes along the joins for spot welding
Did all the spot welding with a mig and and finished off the other joins with a Tig , Fit and finish came up pretty good so shouldndt have to use much bog if any, just a good coat of primer filler
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Folded up one side of the floorpan and put the swage lines in it
Cut out all the rusty areas under where the floor goes and replaced them before welding in new floorpan
Spot welded it along the length of it and also butt welded it along the little crease line thing
Have folded up channel sections of steel for bracing but well have to wait till I take the body off and turn it upside down before they can go in
Just cause
Package arrived from the states the other day with air struts and replacement rear panel that goes under the bootlid area where these things always rust out
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Thanks for the help guys , managed to get a pair off a wellside that someone had taken off to replace with a flatdeck for 100$, the only question now is what am i gunna do with a spare right hand mudflap
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Anyone on here work for a toyota dealership? or wrecker
Im after a back left mudflap for a 2011 Hilux 4x4 , the local dealership quoted me 257$ for one which is a but on the steep side i would of thought
Anyone got any other ideas?
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Cool car man, learnt to drive in one of these (sedan) visiting my partents this weekend and dads just done the old girl up, paint job, new upholstery etc anyway I was crawling around under the house looking for stuff for my chev and found heeps of hillman parts so might be able to help you out with some bits if your in need , I can remember stripping down at least 3 complete cars including a wagon
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its a 65 hillman superminx
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Was looking at selling this but instead ended up buying another one so should have enough parts to complete now,
The new one runs well too so might just put all the running gear and everything in my 240 shell to get it legal
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Havnt got alot done lately due to work commitments but starting to get back into the swing of things now
Cut the rest of the floor out in preperation for the new one, still needs cleaning up around the edges , unsure whether to use acid or sandblasting to get the rust off, What are peoples thoughts on this?
Got hold of another front grill surround thing so put a grill in that to see what itd look like and check bonnet fitment and clearances around the engine
Also toying with the idea of running a water to air intercooler setup just to fit it in there
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theres a chap in aussie doing a vh41 i think it is, hes cutting up inner guards etc, i dont want to do this, the lack of power in the sr20 really doesnt bother me. its just gonna be a cruiser, super low and super slow
Used to own this car when i lived in brisbane, sold it to mate whos doing the conversion on it, pitty you couldnt get in sooner cause the L23 out of this was a minta, guy who i got it off gave it a full rebuild with hardened valve seats as well so ran really well on 91, was my daily for a couple of years
because ??Haha, have an rb30 in my super six i have now and can garentee that ive never owned a flat peak hat, goes alright too
Used to have a l26 in it, from memory someone had given the sump a but of hammer action to clear the cross member
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Found a but of time to do some more work on the firewall and its slowy taking shape
Heat marks on the right hand side are where i used the tig torch to shrink the metal, worked quite well
Added in a 30mm strip to make the recess bigger, probably should of just started again but i was to commited by this stage
This is it mounted in the car, note big spuare recess bit is to clear the back of the head, it pokes out further on one side
ja1lb8's 38 Chev
in Project Discussion
Posted
kinda like this one
No worries I doubt myself half the time, not really sure itl work but time will tell