simcaclub

Guys, I have scanned this book (330 pages) at my work and run OCR over it and added a menu on the side. Might be handy if you have this engine.

I am also looking for an electrical forklift motor> I want to convert my 1958 Simca to a EV. If anybody know one. The internet says it should be a series wound DC electric motor.

Link to 7zip file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TH3Mlay0gmwCvVCOC4qnaKgTGbr3a07M/view

Or link to PDF file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RgXnLEkzRuoCHIaRtczWJHg--VYUruZY/view

Thanks guys, a colleague got the pin out with a punch and a hard bang. The shaft on the top is worn 0.1mm as well. The guy on my work will have a look in his shed, he maybe has a spare one.

Hi guys, I am refurbishing the distributor from my sons 1988 ke70. Does anybody know how to remove the sprocket on the bottom of this distributor? It looks like it is hold by a pin with the sides hammered.

The shaft has 1mm play on the top, and the car is losing all its power in high ref.

I saw on fleebay chinese distributors for $87. is that something?

Give me a PM for my address.

No cost.

and let somebody pick it up at my friends place in Wellington

So that is what I am doing here.

Rav4, can take wheels, parts etc etc. Prefer not to take engines and heavy, filthy things.

Let me know, drop it of at my place in napier

Guys, I'm heading to Wellington on Sunday morning, will be there on Monday and leaving Tuesday morning.

I need 5 more post to get my post in the right category.

Yeah and today they get a slap on the wrist with a wet ticket by a lefties judge.

Today my sons Primera was stolen at the university in Christchurch. Just at broad daylight. Three lowlife guys in a red (also stolen) Primera entered the school parking lot, drove a few circles. Stepped out, stepped in my sons car and drove away. How is that working? Are there special tricks for that? 

He was so proud about his first car. If you have some information, please call the police

Car is grey, on the top faded mat grey, sides shiny grey

Licence plate ZL3339

The car is lowered (he bought the springs in Germany)

The windows are tinted with a metal brown tint. The rear window is not tinted.

The dark parts of the bumpers are faded.

Big exhaust

University parking sticker on the front window.

Monsoon thingies on the side windows

maybe I can place video footage tomorrow.

I have cleaned all the engine parts and ordered piston rod bearings and a ring set from bowden engine parts. Complete paints has made a spray can with the original engine color for me. Suvic is gone grind my crankshaft as soon if I have the bearings. The main bearings probably have to come from fleebay. I still have to sort out the seals.

Back in the original color:

Back in the original color:

A box with clean parts. I have to make a detailed photo of the Flash logo on the cover and somehow reproduce it.

Nice clean parts:

The gearbox looks mint. I am not gone open it up, but leave it as it is.

Glad you like it 

Check out this guy for bearings http://www.bowdenengineparts.co.nz/pdf/bearings.pdf he seem to have what you need for $50 - great guy to deal with.

Thanks mate, I didn't know his site. This guys has quite a lot! I have send him an email.

I have the engine disassembled, some of the piston bearings are realy bad. I don't trust the main bearings either. I have seen on fleebay a set of spare bearings with a 0.25mm oversize. But first I need to know if that is enough for the crankshaft. Next week I can borrow a tool to measure it up. In the meantime I have cleaned all the parts. 

Empty engine

Parts from engine

Some of the piston bearings a quite bad. 

I haven't got a lot of time to work on my Simca, but yesterday and today I found some time to disasemble my engine. The engine has only run 50 Kmiles, but looked quite greasy and oily. When I took the head off, I found about 2,5 cm rusty sludge in the cooling channels. The only way to get rid of it is using a water blaster I guess. I already scraped most of the greasy layer off with an old credit card.

Beheaded before I scraped the greasy layer off. The cylinders are looking ok with out worn places or scratches

Cooling channels full with rusty sludge

I'm getting closer to the crank shaft

Box full with bits and bobs

I'm interested in how you zinc plate?

It had a learning curve, but I think at the moment it is going well. I bought a 25L container at M10 http://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/storage_shelving/plastic_storage/perroplas_rolling_organiser_40_litre_clear_213519/ (but then 25L)

I used the electrolysis formula of this page: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=119931.0 except for corn syrup I used sugar, because I didn't wanted to do another drive to pack$ave.

I found out that the hydrochloric acid is quite important, if you don't put your metal in it for 2 minutes, the zinc wont stick to the metal so well. I first used CLR, but that was just not nasty enough.

I went to the poolman for the hydrochloric acid, but unfortunately a concrete contractor had bought all the hydrochloric acid in Hawkes Bay. Luckily M10 had it for sale, but more $$$

On Aliexpress I bought this power supply: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-Mini-Adjustable-DC-power-supply-0-30V-0-10A-110V-OR-220V-Switching-Power/32338449585.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_1,searchweb201644_2_10001_10002_10005_301_10006_10003_10004_62,searchweb201560_3,searchweb1451318400_6151,searchweb1451318411_6449&btsid=e7a7be96-cce8-4965-ac8d-f97420685f57 Don't get to excited about the wires which come with it, they start to smoke at 2.5Amp. But the supply itself is ok.\ Somehere I read that it is the best to use 0.01Amp per square/cm

The epsom salt is from hateme: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1013776295

The zince sulfide too: http://www.trademe.co.nz/home-living/outdoor-garden-conservatory/gardening-landscaping-supplies/other/auction-1022637074.htm

As for the rod: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/bolts-anodes-fittings/auction-1019781612.htm I have cut the rod in 2 in the lenght, It worked out better. It is a line in sight process. If I knew before, I would had bought 2 rods, I had the blisters on my hand of the cutting.

The vinegar came from mrs dobiwallahs kitchun.

There are many howtos on the net with different ways to do zinc plating. The one were I got the formula from works for me the best.

I use approx 1 teaspoon per 2 litres of water, using a stronger solution has little or no improved effect.

The charger is one of my old-school "rescues", it has the original transformer but I replaced the rectifying  circuit with a Jaycar unit, it's capable of around 6 amps at 13.5 volts (ish!). The max I've got out of it removing rust is around 4.5 amps.

You end up with a black film where the rust was but it's easily removed with a wire brush or wire wool or you can just paint over it with an etch primer. The sacrificial scrap steel you connect the +ve to doesn't last long and ends up plated with rusty crud.

I think the advantage electrolysis has over phosphoric based treatments is that it's less invasive i.e. you don't need to worry about damage to threads and machined surfaces. 

Have a play with it and let us know what you think.

HI, I remove the black stuff with my waterblaster with the spinning head on it. It will blow holes in your boots that strong. For the anodes I using iron rod, but I read somewhere that titanium is the best to use. Titanium is what is used in the salt cells of the pool chlorinators. I have tested the titanium anodes from my old salt cell, and this is going quite good. You don't get the build up of the dark brown sludge on your anodes. Today I went to local pool man to ask him if he can save the old salt cells for me, if he is replacing them for his customers. I also diy zinc plate my bolts, nuts and bumper brackets.

Separate the gearbox:

End if life for the water pump:

Luckily I found a spare in a box somewhere:

Removed the front parts. Many bolts and nuts broke off:

The front parts are waiting to be processed:

This weekend we have removed the engine from the Simca, and some of the front plate work. From the front parts about 30% of the bolts broke off due to rust. Plus a couple of cages of the square nuts in the beams come lose. Not an not easy to loosen job. A large area was covered with a thick greasy substance, which made it difficult to find some of the bolts.

In the meantime I was cooking my bumper parts in my bigger Mr. Fusion container. Since it is virtually impossible to get new or good bumper parts for a Simca in New Zealand, I want to de-rust the bumper parts and smooth them out with filler. After they have been sanded I want to try to wrap them with chrome wrap. I have seen some photos on google with acceptable results http://s176.photobucket.com/user/vette427sbc/media/1955%20Chevy%20Hardtop/99529699-EA12-4280-AA01-9218812B887D-30987-00001B0AAC6CA6CA.jpg.html. (New bumpers from Europe will cost probably around 1500 or 2000 Euros, more value than the whole car)

Rusted bumper part:

Derusted bumper part:

Sprayed in black zinc spray:

Taking the engine out:

Guitar photo:

My 1958 Simca Aronde Deluxe 1300 project. Although it is called Deluxe 1300, the model is the cheapest available. In Europe and other parts of the world the Simca were known as Simca Aronde (and than model name). In New Zealand they were only known as Simca Deluxe or Simca P60. Only the saloons were imported. In the rest of the world more models were available, like sports convertibles, pickups, vans and more luxurious saloon models, inclusive 2 door models. Simca is not that well known anymore.

My project:

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51413-simcaclubs-1958-simca-aronde-deluxe-1300/

I drove 4 1501's sedans from 1993 until 2003. Never had any problems. The 1501 station was very popular with the builders in Holland. The spare wheel is hidden under a plate, which is in fact a pick-nick table. The French (Simca is from France) are having the habit to stop on the side of the road when they are traveling to do there lunch. The pick-nick table was quite convenient for this.

The guy were we bought the Station had also a 1501 sedan, 2 Arondes, a Simca 1000 and an eight cylinder Vedette in the shed.

Uh, yeah discussion. I had to sell all my Simcas in Holland, that was a bit of a bummer. The cars which I had at that time were a 1960 Simca Aronde Oceane (convertible), a 1960 Simca Aronde Artisinale (station wagon, cheapest model at that time) 1975 Simca 1501 station wagon and my daily car was a 1988 Celica Cabriolet (convertible) The Celica was one of the nicest cars I ever have had

Pictures of the Celica I made for the Dutch TM >http://www.simca.nl/oldskool/celica/index.html

Pictures of the Simca I made for the Dutch TM >http://www.simcaclub.com/oud/peter/1501/index.html

Hi, In July 2011 we picked up a 1970 Simca Station wagon in Auckland. We bought the Simca of TM, or actually, I bought the car for my son Quinn (12). Before we immigrated from Holland 3 years ago, I said to my boys: If we are in New Zealand I buy you a car when you become 16. But this Simca, we couldn't let it go, now it's his. I was a Simca enthusiastic in Holland, and I have had a similar model over there.

But anyway, we left at 4.00AM from Napier, and we arrived at 8.00PM back in Napier. Colin a friend was so kind to lend his truck to tow the car trailer.

Our main goal is to get the Simca on the road. A quick view learned that the jack point were rotten (common with Simca) and the breaks need a overhaul, at least they were jamming.