spiderwebfx

Are you setting up static IP's from the router or on the individual devices? If you do it on each individual device, you would be limited to over 200, not 8. It would also prevent router from resetting those ip's if it gets reset.

Mine was made from 6mm steel plate with 18mm(possibly 20mm) steel rod used for the spacers. (Welded together) Past cert without issue.

Most ones supplied by the retailers selling aftermarket wheels are plastic. Some are alloy but very few. Why not try ringing a local wheel shop with the ID of the wheels, ID of the spacers, and the OD's of the spigots, and see if you can just buy them. They're normally only $7-$8 each anyway. If you don't feel like calling, PM me your measurements and I can ring and ask tomorrow for you

Tyres should be fitted from the front side of that rim. It's typical of a cheaper wheel to have the well so far from the face, but obviously it's deeper at that end to cater for it. (Not saying it is a cheap wheel, but the likes of Advanti do this on almost all their rims. JWL used to mean something, (it still does in most cases) but then Chinese copies happened, and now they seem to be on almost every wheel anyway. In terms of quality, I wouldn't say that rim is chinese. If you like at the back in the centre, it's formed around the stud holes. All chinese stuff I've seen has a round mounting face as it's cheaper and easier to do. I'd be looking at what @kyteler said and it's possibly from Performance Wheels Australia

Done, a few hours of messing around, but it now works. I have an Auto Meter tacho internals on the back of my S12 cluster. I'll get the tuner to fine tune it tomorrow while it's getting it's tune done. Cheers for the help.

Yeah, I thought about using a S14 one or something, but I can't find anything locally I can grab today

Yep, very similar to that. I may of just found an Auto Meter Auto Gage series one. So will hopefully go pick up shortly.

I have thought about doing that. Only problem is I haven't been able to find an rpm gauge i can try it with

Unfortunately the above method didn't work. Any other suggestions?

Howdy OS'ers Hoping some of you here may be able to help me with something. I've put a Link ECU into the S12, and am trying to figure out how to get the tacho to work. S12 Silvia, originally CA20E, now has S14 SR20DET and Link Monsoon ecu. I was having a read through this thread; But tbh, I don't really understand it. So the Link has a 12v output. I'm not exactly sure on the S12 tacho input signal type, but attached is a photo of the circuit board (R9 is the first resistor on the tacho signal wire). However, I would prefer to do it with the relay option as I don't want to risk damaging the board. I used to have it driven off the S14 coils by using four diodes (1N4004) on each signal wire (from the ignitor chip) into one, then straight into the tacho. This worked, but my tuner has said he'd prefer not to have anything that can interfere with signal on the coilpacks, and I've also converted to S15 coilpacks if that matters. If it's relevant, the larger of the resistors with writing is 82ohm 5% 2w (R1) and the smaller (R2) is 43ohm J 1w. (Not sure what J means)

Pretty much all these pens are. Go to Bunnings and buy paint pens in whatever colors you want. Although $2.50 for 2 pens is cheap.

@Mr Vapour, that sounds like the sort of thing I'm after. I'll flick you a PM now.

Thanks @tortron I'll give the oven cleaner a go first, if no dice, I'll go with brake fluid.

Na, nothing like that. The existing paint is pretty rough / flaky, I've got most of the flaking paint off but I'm hesitant to paint over whats left in case it peels later on.

I got a plastic mud flap kit in from Japan for my S12. They have had a real shoddy paint job on them. Whats the best way to remove the paint and start again? Can I use paint stripper, etch prime, then paint, or will the stripper damage the plastic? They're OEM ones from the 80's. Will a bead blaster work, or is that two aggressive? I'll post a photo up soon if that will help. Cheers, Chris Edit// just read the technical data for CRC strip-off and it says not recommended for plastics...

4.5" to 5" is standard for 165 wide tyres. Can put 185's on without a problem though. Answers to questions; 1. Yes - the wider tyres will drive much nicer than the 165's. + you have way more options available to you. 2. Assymetric tyres are pretty much the way of the future with tyres anyway. Some brands are coming up with split compounds, and they can fine tune parts of the tyre for different thing. (Such as outer shoulder firmer/more solid for cornering, but inside half the tyre more for everyday comfort sort of thing) 3. Na, you can get a rough idea on it's water dispersion capabilities but thats it. I'd recommend going to the 185/70R13. As far as options go, #1 recommendation would be a Michelin Energy XM2, but they're priced pretty high for a 13" tyre (retail $150+gst). Well worth it though. Otherwise, Yokohama AE01, or Toyo NanoEnergy3. Also, speedo difference will be less than 1%

Thanks!

Yup, does say Nissan Mod.

I'm wanting to increase the engine power on my S12. It was certed with the current motor but I plan on adding bigger injectors, afm and a Nistune board and taking it for a tune. Does it need to be recerted because of power increase? Engine is a S14 SR20DET, at time of cert it had exhaust, intercooler, s15 turbo, and a boost controller set up.

Will 100% vouch for the Milwaukee impact guns. Have been using the M18 3/4" high torque gun for a few months now for work. (Commercial tyre fitter.) I use it for 95% of the wheel nuts I touch, its not got quite as much grunt as the Ingersoll Rand 2145QiMax air impact gun. (But I ram 150psi into that so thats to be expected.) I'm typically needing at least 500ft.lb torque to get wheel nuts undone. I've also got the M18 1/2" medium torque impact gun, which I use all the time for 2 piece forklift wheels. This thing is a dream and it's so easy and light to use. Tips from experience, if you are going to use it all the time, spend the money and get the 9.0aH battery. If you buy a kit, it's only $70(+gst) per battery to upgrade them from the 5.0aH if you buy through The Tool Shed. I have also purchased some M12 stuff for personal home stuff as well. Impact driver, multi-tool, led workshop light and led torch. In M18 I've also got a drill and angle grinder for home use. Also, keep an eye on http://www.mymilwaukee.co.nz/ . They have redemption offers where if you buy from a legit retailer (such as The Tool Shed) you can claim some free shit. I got two M12 LED torches and an M12 4aH battery from this.

It's not as bad as that photo makes it look. When it's on the ground the axle pivots forward and the spring goes straight towards where it sits on the chassis. The problem I've got (because I'm trying to put in the factory bush) is because the center of the factory bush is offset to the center of where the spring sits on the chassis now. (Does that make sense) So to put the bush in, I've gotta put something in to move where the spring sits against it.

Back at it with the spring and shock issue again now. Everything is working, but I don't like it. Steel springs straight onto steel on the chassis are getting a tad annoying. So I've got the OEM rubber mounts and the springs with an engineer to make me some adapters so they can work together. This seems like a better idea than a tapered spring and will get them sitting on a more ideal axis. Photo of the current spring angle (note both mounts are level, so spring is being forced into an angle.) What the goal with the adaptor is; I may end up having to get some slightly shorter springs as well to help reduce the stroke. (200mm length has a little too much for the height it is sitting at.) I'm also having some weird things going on with my fuel pump, maybe someone has experienced it before? Car has a genuine Walbro 255lph pump with a 12v relayed power supply. When you first start the car up everything sounds fine. Go for a good spirited drive, hop out of the car, the fuel pump sounds like it's whining. Turn the car off and back on again, it goes back to normal. Any idea on this?

Finally have a photo. And for the sake of it, a before (when I first got it) and after (today).

Cars all back together now. Took it for a drive, everything seems good. Brake caliper brackets were perfect. Diff seems to make less noise than it used to. And the speedo is only about 4% off actual speed instead of 18% (blaming the tyre size for that). I have noticed the rear springs seem to be making noise as if it's moving around. I think it's always been there, just more noticeable since all the other noises and vibrations have been reduced. Does anyone know if you can get springs that are tapered? So the bottom diameter is 65mm, but the top 80mm and 200mm long. I'm thinking of running something like that and putting the factory rubber bushes back on the top of them. (Springs are currently steel on steel.) Anyway, apart from that, car is going good. I'm making a plan to take a decent photo of it on Sunday.

Got this back today. Will be putting it back in on Friday. Just waiting for the new brake caliper brackets to be finished. So clean and shiny