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  1. 62 points
    motor in. pretty stoked tbh. its funny how quickly i forgot how little room there is around this thing when its back in the bay. also the bonnet fits. 2020-01-24_05-44-54 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-24_05-45-02 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-24_05-45-10 by sheepers, on Flickr
  2. 51 points
    Exciting times here at the only Imp workshop in the valley. It runs! But typically there are a few small hiccups. Some actually quite comical. I think we should re-wind back to where we left off last time. So I needed a new ball to see the gear stick through until I can get a decent proper replacement. I had bought a section of nylon/teflon bar. I made a gauge from card to match the curve inside the socket that the ball would rotate. Then I reversed that into a gauge that I could place over the bar as I machined it. Not exactly brain surgery. Which leads me to a little giggle about this bit of comedy gold... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THNPmhBl-8I he he. Love it. So yeah.. easy job. I got a pretty match and it came out OK. Works well enough but the reverse lockout plunger spring is a bit too keen and popping the gearstick left into the reverse plane requires quite a sharp movement. Luckily it would be easy enough to sort, except for that removing the engine and box bit.... I might just put up with it. At least I'll never accidentally select reverse when dropping down into second before hurtling around a tight corner feeling the full force of the mighty 68 little Datsun Ponies as they rocket me forwards. But before I got too excited about such F1 levels of performance I thought it might be prudent to protect those little Ponies from breathing in dusty air. I needed an air filter that fitted the space I had (not much area in height available), looked good and was cheap. There was nothing available. So I'll make one. I started with an old but perfectly usable filter from a customers Ford econovan (Mazda really..)... I chopped it up, essentially slicing off a section of the right thickness to suit the height I had. I then grabbed a section of 5mm alloy sheet I had in stock, chopped out two discs with the Jigsaw. Put a hole in one with a holesaw which allowed me to hold it in the lathe to machine it down. Reduced the thickness by 3mm leaving a neat lip around the edge to not only hold the metal filter outer in place but hide and seal the edges... For the lid I welded an old steering wheel boss I had kicking about onto the plate. Then I machined the plate down to suit, like the bottom one and then cut the boss off. Cleaned up the marks and ended up with a filter that fits and looks the part too. I'm very happy with it In place... Note the ugly pipe hanging from the rocker cover breather. I need to sort out something there. The manifold the carb sits on seems to be spot on level since modifying it. Welding castings like this can often be a bit tricky what with porosity and dirty alloy. The datsun item seemed quite clean in this respect... The tiny little Hitachi twin choke carb that sits on top is so dinky. I have no idea exactly what model A series engine its from as I had been given it by a friend who had got it with a job lot of Viva parts. I can only hope that the jetting is correct. I'll soon find out. I might try again with research on the numbers. I had to reconfigure the throttle cable layout to suit its new home. This involved a new pulley to suit the cable pull on offer from the stock Imp throttle pedal... So the filter was sorted, carb in place, cables all hooked up (after buying 3 metres of Shimanos finest brake cable outer to suit the stainles brake inner for a tandem bicycle) and it was all getting a bit exciting. I was starting to get those 'first start, will it start, will it blow up, is the engine actually rooted?' feelings and thoughts. I double checked everything and put some petrol in the tank. No coolant yet- no point if the engine turned out to be a plonker. It would only be one more thing to have to remove. Turned the key as Hannah excitedly watched the engine from the back... Whir, whir, whir, whiiiir, whiiiior, whiiiiiooooouur, whiiiour, whour, wooohour, woooooouur, woor, woor, woo, wo, w....w.. Bugger. Well that battery that charged up ok, seemed ok, was obviously not OK. So we connected the booster pack on. Winding winding winding. Nothing. Hmmm. Has to be spark. Fuel pump, barnd new, was working fine, fuel at carb and at correct level. Fuel smells from exhaust. Spark then. I checked the coil- yep. Power to the coil. I checked it had power when turning over (some ignition switches can fail like this). Yep all good. Checked for spark with spare plug on lead. Nothing. Checked on king lead. Nothing. took cap off and checked rotor. Good. Checked continuity on leads to and from coil to electronic pickup in dizzy. Fine. At this point I was getting a sinking feeling that the pickup module in the dizzy was broke. However I knew that the previous owner had the car running not long before I bought it and there was nothing I'd done that could break it. I checked the polarity on the two wires. It was correct according to the electronic ignition swap thread on Datsun 1200 wiki. i had a look at all the photos I had taken of the wiring before I pulled the car apart. Hmmmmm- the two wires are the other way round. I did some more quick googling and it seems that they should be that way. Tech wiki- you lie. Swapped the two wires and this time we had spark- which my hand can attest to as it had 20,000 volts jolt through it. Reconnected plug lead, tried again and this time something. A muffled backfire. Tried again- same thing. Hmmm- timing is way out. Dizzy timing and it was fine- I had previously very carefully setup TDC using the stick and two marks meathod to double check the marks on the crank pulley because the car has got Toyota 5 rib pulleys on it (previous owner had at one point been running a supercharger on this engine) Everything seemed fine. Then Hannah quipped up and said "maybe its 180 degrees out and its on the exhaust stroke?" She was correct. I had spent all that time checking the tdc but not properly checked if both valves were closed. Oh silly me! So we spun the dizzy round and reset its timing. Jumped in the car and on about the second go it started. Yay!!! It sounded good. Not too noisy. Ran it for half a minute, workshop filling with smoke as all the paints, spilt oils, greasy finger prints burnt off. Decided it was worthy of some coolant and so Hannah filled up the system. It took ages to swallow about 9 litres of coolant, even with the bleed nipples open up front. sadly there was a pinhole on the thermostat housing I'd repaired and the old Smiths temp gauge decided that because its parent company was Lucas it would wasn't going to turn up to work. It was getting late so we called it quits and I removed the housing to seal the pin hole. I swapped the gauge over for another one and went to bed. The next day I thought would be the day of the first drive. I excitedly put the number plates on. I didnt want to fit the rear plate in the usual position on the engine cover. There are no holes there, no light, no light mount and the plate is too wide that it akwardly covers over a section each side of the main centre hole. So I drilled two tiny holes and mounted it below the bumper, with a light on one side. I think that I'm going to change the light though for a neat one hidden in the un used and slightly bent crank handle hole on the bumper. But back to the that drive. ooooooh exciting. So exciting I had to go have a nervous poo. Once back I started the car, with the help of the jumper pack and warmed it up a little. Clutch in. oh. That feels weird?.. let the clutch out eased the car out of the workshp into the sunshine, first time this shell has moved under its own steam for a very very long time. Awesome! Righto- lets go. Then suddenly.. gurgle gurgle splatter splatter. Coolant starts running out of the heater onto the passenger floor. Bugger!!!!! Arrrgggggggghhhhhhh! Righto- thats it. I'm over it. We pushed it back in to the workshop, into the corner of shame. I muttered some more choice words and then said to hannah "fark this...Lets go for a bike ride" So we jumped on our cyclocross bikes and went for a strop in the local mountain bike park. I got to contemplate the problems and felt much better once we got home. Then this happened... I had the heater matrix out and on the bench in about one hour of the Craig Charles funk and soul show. Turns out it had frost damage, from cold Canterbury days sitting out in winter (this heater was from Imp 3, the Christchurch car). Luckily I had a good spare!... Then that clutch. It had over extended itself and when I tried it again once back home it pissed fluid everywhere, having jammed a seal... I have swapped in a spare seal, extended the pushrod so it starts from the very start of the piston travel and will watch it- you can pump it out with quick clutch foot action so something aint right. I suspect its the flexible line has inside kink. I'll look to replace it. In normal use the clutch seems ok. Time will tell. Well that was a wall of text! I hope you all enjoyed my ramblings. Oh and the spare temp gauge I fitted is crap too. I'll buy a new complete setup. I promise the next installment will be full of joyous Imp driving tales
  3. 50 points
    so yea, it goes. had to push the throttle by hand because i haven't got the e throttle working yet. pretty stoked tbh, it goes fucking mint. if i can figure out the e throttle setup i might be able to drive it tomorrow. sorry the video is a bit shit, i was trying to doort and film at the same time.
  4. 50 points
    Filled about 50 holes in the engine and removed all the brackets I no longer need. Laser cutting a sheet of all the filler pieces made it way quicker and easier! Where the chassis rail kicks up at the firewall is a known place where cracks can form. There was already one about 8mm long on the passengers side. Made some gussets and welded them in. Found some previous repairs around the rear hatch on the body. I think they just ground out the rust spots here and then bogged it up. Cut out and welded new steel in there. Another one here, this time just a piece of steel brazed over the top of the rust holes. Fixed! As well as a few more bits around the seal. Picked up a pair off TA22 Celica fender mirrors from YAJ, that you can kinda see. I think they look good, but hard to tell when half the cars missing. Bought a Estima F series diff. Stripped in right down, cut off all the brackets and then noticed one of the housing tubes was very bent! One end was out by at least 10mm. Had a go at straightening it, wrapped some chain around the tube and some big u-channel, and then used a bottle jack and heat to push it out. Came out pretty good, close enough to then shorten it. Drew up a jig that held it all square and inline. Shortened it by 105mm a side, so it's the same dimensions drum to drum as the factory diff. Bought some MRP adjustable 4-link arms off @Cdarust Got a Altezza Torsen LSD head to swap in. Made some upper and lower brackets for the diff. Borrowed @oftensideways rotisserie. Going to raise the rear 4-link body mounts up. About 50mm higher for the lower mount, which should make the lower arm level and somewhere between 50-100mm higher on the top arm. The angles are currently far too much and I've gone this far so may as well, will be good to get rid of the lower body mounts as they're the lowest part of the car. It shouldn't effect the rear seat too much either.
  5. 50 points
    Well now.. its been a few weeks and time for an update. So far the Imp has been reliable and not let us down but it has also been true to its English form and left a few little puddles about. I'll talk about them soon. We took it on its first big road trip which was fun, although a bit noisy. I couldn't really cane it super fast on the hills because Kevin the cat had to come on the trip with us. It was a few days away to visit my parents so we cant just leave the kid at home... The car did the trip with no hassles and returned an OK 35mpg, not bad considering its geared quite low, has had heaps of sitting on the spot being tuned and due to the constant annoying flat spot right off idle I had to accelerate faster then I'd normally bother in average driving. It certainly hoons along very very well although it has an exhaust boom right around 60mph, which is around 4000rpm thereabouts. It became a bit too tiresome however should be better now I have added a load of sound insulation on the back parcel shelf. I am super impressed with the Datsun A12 engine!! Its really peppy and fun, very smooth (allowing for the annoying carb issues) and just works so well. I can totally see why they have such a cult following around the world. Everyone who chats to us about the car (and its ALOT of people.. its a right little magnet this car) think that the Datsun conversion makes so much sense. More often than not folk are full of praise for the Imps they knew, had, learned to drive in etc , except for the standard Imp engines reliability. This is a shame because I think the standard Imp engines are great however one must accept that they do need to be cared for a bit more than many owners obviously could be bothered. But the Datsun engine- first comments are usually " what a great swap- those are bomb proof engines " usually followed with the comment "it must be hard to get those engines now because all the ministock racers have got them all"... So anyway.. the wee Imp ran well and got us to Blenheim and back. But before that big trip I wanted to sort a few things. One job was to build a cold air fed filter box and carb lid to let the engine suck on some cooler air rather then the super hot air floating about in the top of the engine bay, due to Imps not having the luxury of lots of cold air running through over the engine. So I built a filter box, sized to take a modern Honda filter. I have made the box large enough to handle bigger pipes and the volume that might be needed when I plan to upgrade the induction. Box... With filter in place... This box fitted under the parcel shelf above the gearbox. Sort of out of the way and hidden but easy enough to get to. It was fed with a flexy alloy pipe from under the car. Another section of pipe headed backwards to a plenum/tophat thinggee I made for the carb... It was all going so well I thought. I splashed some black paint on it all so it looked a bit neater... Then I fitted the tophat to the carb. This is where things went a bit... tight. It seems that I had completely forgotten to measure how much room I had just above in front of the carb. Not enough it turns out .... The engine lid wasn't able to go back in place! A few choice words that somewhat rhymed with duck along with a sentence that sounded quite similar to 'well you stupid punt' were uttered. I then calmed down, realised that at least I have now got a filter box sorted for future upgrades and with that I removed the lot and refitted the previous air filter I made. At least its winter so a bit of hot air cant hurt I did another couple of jobs before the trip. I swapped out the fuel gauge which wasn't reading correctly for a spare unit I had.. I was also fed up with trying to adjust the clutch. The slave cylinder fitted had a 7/8" (22mm) bore and being pushed by the standard Imp 5/8" (16mm) master cylinder, which happens to be the same size as what the Datsuns use. However- Datsuns use a smaller 17mm slave to get the correct amount of stroke at the slave. I wasn't getting enough stroke so the clutch pedal and release fork clearences had to be set very tight to clear the gears. But I did have a very light pedal... So I worked out that the amount of stroke available from the Imp pedal, whilst being very close to that on a Datsun, was not quite enough I could get a good working system with a slave of around 3/4" (19mm). However- there didnt seem to be any slaves available out there that had the same mounting lugs, in 3/4" bore, with a metric fine hose thread. But I did have some spare random 3/4" seals, some stainless bar for a new piston and a big lump of alloy. So I made a new slave cylinder to suit. I could have sleeved the existing one down and I have a 3/4" reamer to help but I wanted to keep that one intact in case it all went pear shaped. Plus...its more fun making things ! I offset machined the lump of alloy down in the 4 jaw, bored and reamed it to suit, milled the shape up and machined a new piston to suit. But I was having too much fun and forgot to take many photos.. New next to old... It works heaps better! I can now have a bit of slack at the pedal and at the release bearing and still get my gears. Another job was to take the carb apart for the 14th time. I'm getting very quick at this and can field strip a Hitachi 306 carb in under 15 seconds, blindfolded, with both hands tied behind my back, whilst under water breathing through a straw. The carb had a few leaks. I realised that the top lid was pulled out of shape... I carefully filed it and the body flat, cleaned it out again for the 10th time and made a new thicker gasket to suit... On the next test drive the leaks had gone but I had still had not cured the flat spot. So I gave up and made a parcel shelf instead. I did have an original Imp one but it was a bit wobbly and a pain to fit. I made a new wooden one for the passenger side so now actually had somewhere to sit our phones, wallets, bag of Werthers originals, old parking tickets, a broken pen, out of date fuel vouchers and, most importantly, a screwdriver for constantly tweaking the carb settings. Again, so much fun but no photos. I finished the shelf the morning we set to leave. We plonked Kevin the cat into the car and set off. A lovely trip was had with the only downer being that the cold I had caught at fire brigade practice a few days before was really kicking in to full runny nose time, while the weather was a bit... Wintery. Got to test the wipers out though (must fit intermittant control kit I have) On the way over to Blenheim. You can spot Kevin. I took my Dad out for a hoon in the car. He loved it and only complained about the wipers being in the way of his view. Not a car fault but more down to the fact he must only be about 4'5" tall now... Back home and more recently things have happened. I weighed the car at the local tip... 750kg. The guy said the scales are within 10kg. So its in the ballpark for what I was guessing. A bit heavier then a standard Imp to be expected with a heavier engine, seats, exhaust, radiator and associated cowling, water pipes etc. But still light enough I think standard Imps are around 700KG ? More recently- one of the output shafts on the box leaks. I think it might be the shaft moving out just a touch too much on certain corners and the seal running off the land its meant to seal on. Or the seal land on the shaft is too worn. Or the new seal I had fitted has moved. The car will soon go on the hoist and I'll have a look. Cant really drive it until I sort this. Expensive stuff this oil- even more expensive if its loss means a buggered transmission. In other news I have made a parcel shelf for the drivers side. Now I can stash all my own crap within easy reach .. I am going to make some speaker boxes to mount under the shelves alongside a headunit. At a later date when I can afford to do so I'll fit an Amp and sub. I do like my music and there is only so much of Datsun A12 at 4000 RPM booming I can cope with so I need to drown it out. That is about all for now. Wish me luck with my seals...
  6. 47 points
    Well, it happened again. Somehow awesome old British cars that need loving find me, and of course who am I to turn them down? This car has a bit of a weird story, but I guess it adds to the history of it all. It all started when I had the M328i listed on Trademe, back in March, and in amongst all the useless time-wasters asking me dumb questions, I got asked if I wanted to swap the black leather vaders for white leather seats from another M3. Of course this was a no, white leather is one of the worst wearing colours in the E36. The fellow wasn't done there though, he wanted my seats. The next question he asked on my listing immediately had my ears perk up, and suddenly I was intrigued. Yes, that's right, a TVR. After a bit of googling I worked out an 80s TVR would be a Wedge. Not the most loved TVR, but I like them, and any TVR is a good TVR in my books. It's 80s, it's British, how bad can it be? Of course I was interested, and let him know. Later that night I get a call and discuss the car. Its been off the road for a few years getting some work done at the "local" TVR specialist, in Auckland. Ok, no problem, except the owner is down in Christchurch (about 1000km and a large body of water away from each other, and I'm somewhere in the middle of that). It turns out that he wanted my car, because he was buying a convertible E36 M3, and wanted to swap my black leather into it. He also had thoughts of "Trevors last drive" by flying up to Auckland, picking up the TVR, driving it down to me, swapping to the M3 and for him to continue on his way down south. As I found out later, this would've been a big ask for the TVR. We discuss the ins and outs, and I'm recommended to contact the specialist and discuss the car. I give the specialist a call and discuss the car. Apparently it's all sorted, and basically ready to "fly through" a WOF and to hit the road. Its had various work done, including most of the hard work like suspension. He noted it does have an issue starting, which is possibly down to a failed fuel accumulator, but does run and could be driven onto a truck. His description of the car was that its a good solid, tidy car, but may need some carpets as they are a bit worn. I was very interested, but needed photos to see what condition it was in. Ok he said, he will try and sort some for me. To cut a long story short, I tried for months to get photos of the car, with every reason under the sun for not getting them from the specialist. On the other side of it, the seller of the TVR decided not to buy that M3, and couldn't find one he wanted, so no longer had a need or want for my car. I let him know I was still interested in outright purchasing the car but would need photos. Both him and myself followed up with the specialist, to no avail. Just before I went on holiday at the end of June, the BMW sold, but I still had no proof of life that the TVR even existed, so just left it hanging whilst I chilled out in the UK (more on that in a later post). When I returned, I already had a list of cars on Trademe I wanted to look at. I had basically given up on the TVR at this point, as during the month I was away, still no photos had been sent. I looked at a couple of cars, including an Evo 4 (which I came very close to buying, but the second viewing showed too many issues, and the unmistakable smell of weed inside) and a C55 AMG (nice car, if a bit dull). I wasn't quite set on them, but noticed that the TVR specialists website had been updated, with new photos, and what happened to be dead center in the photos, but a silver Wedge! Well, there was my proof of life I guess; the car did exist! I contacted the owner and confirmed the car was still for sale, and then did the stupid thing; making an offer for the car as it sits, without so much as a real photo. Offer was accepted, and a call was made to the specialist to make sure no money was owing, that the car could come with the spare parts, and that it would drive onto the truck.... oh wait, what's that, it suddenly doesn't run but you will "try to get it going"... I pushed forward anyway, sending my hard-earned money to the seller, and booking my preferred transport, letting him know that the car doesn't run but the specialist will "try" to get it running. After a long week of waiting, this showed up this morning. Yes, that's the proper good fella Brent from Classic Towing dropping off yet another project to me. Can't recommend him enough, as even when things go a bit pear shaped, he has it all under control, and he loves weird cars almost as much as I do. My first question to him was "did it run?" to which he replied with a no, and tightened the winch ready for laying the bed flat. Such a cool truck, it lowers the bed right off onto the ground. This is half way down Brent pushed the car whilst I jumped in and steered it carefully into the garage. This was harder than you would think, being that it was raining on the outside, and inside of the windscreen, and the wiper didn't work (well, it's not even fitted). We made it safely into the garage though. The brakes work, which is something. So, what is this weird little thing? A 1980 TVR Tasmin 280i It's more or less a Ford Capri in a fibreglass body with tube-frame chassis and some weird and bespoke parts. Powered by a 2.8l V6 Ford Cologne engine topped with Bosch K-Jetronic mechanical fuel injection, backed by the latest (for the 70s) in Ford 4 speed manual gearbox technology, and driven via the rear wheels through a Jaguar XJS diff with spiffy inboard disc brakes. The pinnacle of technology, and a real parts bin special. On the plus side it does get some pretty advanced gear for something that is the same age as my green Mini. Independent rear suspension, four wheel disc brakes, fuel injection, electric windows, bonded windscreen and a targa top convertible. It does have a lot of known quirks though, such as a multitude of wiring issues, a wiring loom that consists of only black wires (seriously), diabolical K-Jet fuel injection, and a dual fuel tank system that is no end of troubles. Anyway, this car is the 106th Tasmin off the line, and appears to be the 4th DHC (Drop Head Convertible) made (1st was a concept made from a chopped up FHC). Before the DHC was in production, the FHC (Fixed Head Coupe) was the TVR to have. The FHC was soon phased out though and only the DHC survived until the end of production, albeit with some big changes. Being a very early car, my one has some specific early only "features". The first, and most obvious, is that its a TVR Tasmin, not a TVR 280i. TVR dropped the Tasmin name later on and left the names to just be the displacement of the engine (280i - 2.8 V6, 350i - 3.5 V8 etc). A couple of other early features are the weird little mirrors hanging off the doors. Later cars changed to pods in front of the side windows, like a normal car. One of my favourite really early features though, has to be the gorgeous Stewart Warner gauges The later cars got boring, but arguably more readable (and probably reliable), VDO gauges. There is just something about the way the SW gauges are clocked, and the vertical odometer. So, now that the car has been delivered, how is it? Did i win the blind buying game, or get screwed? It's not as tidy as described, and it doesn't currently run. The battery was completely dead (to the point my ctek charger won't even detect it), but with a replacement battery the electrics are slowly coming to life again. Unfortunately, it leaks like a sieve and is full of water. I tried to dry as much as I could out, but the dehumidifer will have to do the rest. The roof seals will be the major contributor to this, as they are well buggered. The water ingress is what has ruined the carpet, it's literally rotting away. The boot, once I got it open, wasn't much better, with the lid being full of water and covered in condensation on the inside. The seats are in good condition, with no obvious rips or tears, as is the rest of the general interior. The wood grain has some cracks, but overall for a car I suspect spent a lot of time sitting outside, its in good shape. Apparently blue velour and vinyl stand the test of time. Bodywork is very good, with only some stone chips on the front. The rest of the paint appears to be good and will come up well with a polish. The top is also in good condition, with only some damage to the fabric on the removable section, and the rear window is very cloudy. Hopefully, I can polish that out, but it may need replacement. I don't know how the car is mechanically as it does not run. The previous owner advised (only after I had paid for it) that there is a strong fuel smell from the tanks when sitting, but it drove well otherwise. The fuel in the tanks smells like varnish, but cannot be smelt without opening one of the two fuel caps. I will need to drain this out and throw some new fuel in before trying to start. The starting issues could be a few things, but I will get to that in due course. One cool thing about TVRs is the convertible roof with a removable targa section. You can either have the roof up, down, or the rear section up but without the targa section, which fits into the boot (roof isn't locked in this photo, so looks a bit baggy) So that's the TVR. The plan is to get get it running, get a WOF on it and then take it to the British Car Day show in Feb. In between that, just take it out for some top-down Summer cruising. Oh, and keep fixing it. Can't forget that.
  7. 44 points
    Finished the other side 4-link mount. Bought some more wheels too. 13x6.5j SSR MKII's. Gave them all a beadblast and polish, still need some paint at some stage. Bought some new screws for the headlight trim, gave the trim and headlights a polish and assembled them. Made some new chassis rails out of some 50x50x2.5mm box section. It nearly perfectly slid over the existing chassis rails, which was ideal for plug welding it. The front of the rails/foot well section has gained 25mm of ground clearance now, which makes the sills and chassis pretty much flush, before the chassis was quite a bit lower. Also extended the rails to go all the way through the rear seat foot well and up to the rear chassis section. Should be way more rigid now! Cut out the floor that was hanging lower than the chassis rails and made some new panels and welded them in. The other side is a bit more work, as it will have an exhaust tunnel going through there as well. I should hopefully be able to tuck the exhaust right up above the lowest point. Once that's done the sills and chassis rails will be the lowest point in the centre section of the car. Might need to look at whether I raise the front crossmember or not.
  8. 43 points
    Bought a set 13x6.5 Work Equip 01's. Will refurbish them and then decide if I want to run them. Also scored this off Yahoo Auctions a while back. Has the plugs and also came with some black dash parts. Decided on how to raise the tunnel. Bent the handbrake section up to match the height of where the old gearbox tunnel top piece had to go. Then made up some filler pieces to fill the gaps. Plan was to keep it looking as factory as possible. Had to remake the crossmember as it needed to be built up higher. Used some tube that matched the radius and bent it to suit. Welded in filler pieces. Cleaned up. Next was to make some strips to fill in the sides. Had contemplated making them with the factory swagings, but decided it would be easier to flatten them out and make the strips flat. Then the tunnel to firewall gap needed filling. Made a paper template, transferred it to the steel, cut it, formed it and it nearly fitted perfectly first try. All cleaned up. Up next was the firewall cutout for the dizzy blank cover to sit in. Tried again to make it look factory, which I think turned out pretty good. Stripped out all the sound deadening with dry ice. Have only cleaned off the residue from the passengers seat and footwell area. Pulled out all the wiring as well. Need a F-series diff now.
  9. 38 points
    Well, I've had this thing for a bit over a year now. It's a 1951 Ford Country Squire. It came on TM, being sold by the importer. Apparently it had been parked in a field in Pennsylvania for some time. It got no bids on TM but was offered for a fairly cheap fixed price. After chatting to the seller and getting some bad advice on here I bought it. AT that point it was in Blenheim. The seller shifted to a some sort of skid at Strait Shipping, then I had it collected from there and delivered. It's in pretty sad shape. The old wood is missing, it is rusty, and god knows when the flathead last ran. Rust flagged at the border unsurprisingly.
  10. 38 points
    Havent been on here for a while but in the mean time have picked up a 52 Chev pick up that the plan is to have going for Beach Hop 2020. Running the OG 216ci straight 6 and 4 speed on the floor. Solid original truck with only a couple of bits of minor rust, A heap of newish chrome was on it, interior has been redone at some point and truck was more or less running and driveable. Stage 1 plan for it is: - Rust & Bang a few dents out - New timber deck -Artileries & Big whitewalls with new hub caps & beauty rings -Fulton Visor -6V to 12V Conversion -Heap of minor badges, mirrors etc -Slam -Vin -Roll 2020 Beach Hop Pics of when i first got it.
  11. 36 points
    Welcome back viewers to yet another ever so thrilling update on the old Huddyson. Sitting here and looking back over the last few years I must scratch my head and ask where has all that time gone. I really did believe it would of been driveable by now - road legal or not legal. Life has its way of derailing such grand time frames as im sure you all are aware and the fact that even though the parts im using may not be the most expensive out there they sure dont come cheap. To paraphrase Oedipus, Hamlet, Lear, and all those guys, "I wish I had known this some time ago." Everything was such a damned nice idea when it was an idea yet as with everything How you look at it is pretty much how you'll see it I guess. And looking at it I can see the old gal ride low n slow down the street fast n loud on the highways everytime im out working on the old beast. God i got a tad philosophical there for a moment... what are they adding to the water around these parts. /twitch Enough of that nonsense. let start the normal barrage of images and brief explanations. Back floor all patched up over four link brackets. Holes added for access & removal of the top bars bolts. Sparks and smoke flying up front as the Trans cover was all made up like a big jigsaw. To help pull the drivers side floor up the brake boosters cover has been incorporated onto the trans cover to add rigidity. Since the brakes are all tucked away under the floor and me being a bit of a lazy sod im using a remote reservoir. The brake pedal was a bit of a sod that took up a heap of time. Due to the floors sloping angle and other factors we couldn't do a normal pivoting bar as the inside push rod where you stand would be pointing towards the floor. So a duel/tandem lever was made up. its somewhere between 4:1 and 5:1 ratio. Still got to get the adjustable top links. but tested with a bit of bar and have heaps of travel for the booster. Grease nipples all over the place. Machined up brass bushes and ya its solid as. Have to get the actual pedal and the other lever bar it connects to tested still. Moving on to smaller jobs now. Power steering. As i have mentioned I think some time ago im using a PSC setup made for rock-crawlers. So if its powerful enough to drive and survive the crazy setups they have it should be fine for my setup. Now I didnt want to take away from the finned engine dress-up stuff when you open the hood. So a low mount bracket was fabbed up. The little pump has a heap of adjustment, lines up nicely with the other pulleys and is tucked nice and low that will not only keep it out of eye sight but since the pump is gravity feed from the reservoir that will be mounted up by the radiator it will have ample full as well. Mounted up the trans cooler up front of the radiator after I drilled a few holes and added grommets for the hoses. Should be hidden away enough not to be noticed. Got the cad skills out again to design up the gas tank. Its about 19Gallons/72litres. The tail pipes are rather close together so the plan is cut a hole in the trunks floor and have half the tank through this and then the other half taking up much of the trunks floor space. Baffles will also add bracing for those times I may throw heavy loads like tires ontop of it. The bottom should be flush or just tucked up with the bottom of the chassis whilst the top will come nearly up to the trunks lip/bottom of the door. So it shouldn't be a hindrance or noticeable. One end is slightly deeper for the pump and sender. Josh and the guys at Apex in Oamaru cut n folded it up. Top guys with some great kit that I highly recommend. They also made up that Hudson logo for a bit of fun what was nice of them and chucked it in. Until I figure out what to do with it I plan to use it as a stencil to tag a few things around the garage. \,,/(-.-)\m/ On a bit of a separate note the missus has taken up slinging a bit of one shot paint of late. Hell yeah I say. Im more than happy to buy the brushes, paints and what ever if it means I can get some lines laid down on pretty much what ever I want. I think she is busting it out but naturally I may be a tad one eyed, biased and not the best judge in the matter. Take a look any way. Some panels up near the top of below pic in my garage. Cooler to go with her Morrie Door she made up for Flockie on an old 40s Ford pickup door. And of course hand bags... she has a thing for handbags.
  12. 35 points
    Drove it to work. It did not blow headgasket
  13. 34 points
    Last update for 2019 I got annoyed at my brain going around in circles about intercooling, between water to air, air to air, or doing water meth injection. Spent waaay too much time reading stuff on the internet I'd actually bought most of the stuff to do W2A but it adds a lot of weight and more stuff to do A2A means I lose the bonnet catch so I'll have to put up with 1x dick punch from @RUNAMUCK due to bonnet pins Water/meth is the easiest route but so much conflicting information on whether it works well or not plus the unit I was looking at was $800 So to stop going around in circles any more I stopped thinking about it and attacked the front with a cut off wheel and a hole saw Got some piping mocked up and the warm side, which was the side that looked like it was going to be difficult, is pretty easy using piping I cut up that was on the vg
  14. 34 points
    So I got the block into the boring bar. It's pretty straight forward boring a block. Doing a cylinder liner is a bit more involved as far as the boring bar is concerned. This block is at 30thou over or .75mm in metric. I have bought 40thou over or 1.mm pistons. It has a bit of wear. But hopefully it's should clean up once it's honed. This picture is of a test cut. So you dial the boring bar head into the bore. If you have a decent amount of wear it pays to slightly offset the bar towards the wear so you clean all going well at the next oversize. So in this picture you can see the boring bar hasn't totally cleaned with this size cut. I have only set the bar at 81.90mm. So I have .1mm or 4thou to hone out to get to our finished size of 82mm. We generally like to leave this amount to hone to achieve good rk rvk this is the depth of hone pattern. I'll go into that a bit more once we get to honing it. Once we've finished honing we normally go to the surface grinder. The top of the block is a little corroded so I'll probably take a few cuts to clean it up. So I've done a light cut to see how it looks You can see it still needs more off it. In this case it's not a issue to take more off the deck. When you are dealing with a late model diesel or performance engines that have been set up with good tight clearances it pays to watch how much your removing as you may have to detop your pistons as they may start getting to close to the head once assembled. Also valve reliefs can also need deepening. But this is more so a issue in extreme cases. This good old xflow should be fine. But i will be checking all this later once i can dumby the engine up
  15. 34 points
    Long time no update.. Not a lot has happened since "16, been to nats banks peninsula, won the grasskhana and didn't miss a beat the whole trip (not that it was a long way) failed a warrant before hand on no horn which took me a while to figure out, turns out there was no earth strap on the rubber coupler to steering box.. Fuck knows how the horn had been going otherwise, And also the hand brake cable on these is mounted via two of these rubber bobbin mounts, they are in fact one of the things I thought would fail the re-vin on but somehow they made it all the way through 6 wofs.. *edit, also failed on the rear muffler which @RUNAMUCK kindly donated.. Multiple hanmeats, the last of which ended up with a fair distance on a potholed gravel road up the back of Hanmer in the snow and rain, the one bonus of the potholes is that my heater fan randomly started working which was terrific as every time it rains the car fogs up like a bitch.. Problem solved. That was 8 months ago..... Decided I should really give her a clean for the next wof.. My little girl was dead keen and came around the corner holding a trade spec scrubbing brush and a wire brush gagging to help, I let her do the wheels, sans wire brush of course.. In the end I did the wheels while she spayed them and me with the hose.. Came up ok, As per the story of my life nothing else on the turbo/injection front has continued because of a lack of working space and the house.. all good tho I guess, she purrs along and is out of the shit brotown weather so I'll just keep driving her as is for now..
  16. 34 points
    Boot lid finished which pretty well completes the panel. It’s going to be a shame to paint it! Stainless trim already to go to the polishers.
  17. 34 points
    "Test Drive" turned into blasting around in it for large parts of the afternoon, reckon I've done about 45 miles or so. Brakes are fine and it goes pretty hard (for what it is). Handles really nice and is no way stock in the springs & shocks department. Tweaked the timing a bit and it's just rattling a little under heavy load, I'll try some octane booster tomorrow that will sort it out hopefully. It was blowing oil smoke for the first 5 miles but a couple of hot & cold cycles seems to have freed the rings up a treat. Haven't revved it beyond 4 grand yet but it feels pretty strong. Over all I'm pretty bloody chuffed with it, it's a really nice car. Bit of a clonk in the drivetrain but it only sounds like a UJ. Water pump bearing's a bit wobbly and it needs a new rad cap but it held temperature & oil pressure despite some enthusiastic driving. Vids for your entertainment... What ? Skid you say ? So, it's all good. Gonna do the wheels bronze and paint the rear panel black between the lights but apart from that, roll on summer.... * Also, side-sharn.... About 5 years ago I was chatting to the in-laws neighbour about cars. Started telling him about the Hako and he said " Fucking Japanese shit, I'm not interested in those useless bits of crap". We popped round to Carols folks earlier and the neighbour drove by as we were leaving. He fucking loved the Skyline, was all over it and asked if I wanted to sell it. I ignored him. Silly bugger.
  18. 32 points
    We've all done it, right? Spotted something tasty on Trademe while browsing idly on a Friday night? Sometimes, after a few beers, you might even put in a cheeky low autobid just for the hell of it. Well, fast forward two weeks and it turns out no-one else wanted that crunched Accord you were bidding on while a little bit drunk. Damn. Thus, for a stupidly small amount of money, I added another slightly rotten Eighties classic to the fleet. This one rolled off the NZ Motor Corp production line in Nelson sometime in the early part of 1981, probably into the hands of a caring gent who treasured it for a couple of decades, adorned it with a set of THE GREATEST WHEELS EVER M8, and apparently never had a flat tyre because the original Reidrubber Award is still sitting in the boot. Fast forward a few years, it passed through several more owners, and tried to pass through a brick wall which didn't go so well for it. However, considering the reputation that first-gen Accords have for disappearing slowly before your very eyes, this one seems remarkably solid. The wall-inflicted damage was limited to the pushed-back bonnet, radiator support panel, guards and bumper, with the chassis rails thankfully having escaped damage. It was in this state that I picked it up on Saturday morning, drove it to the parents place and tore it to pieces in their driveway. By Saturday afternoon it was sans front, I had pulled the radiator support panel back to where it should be (it helps when your Grandad has a low mile, immaculate one owner example you can take measurements off) and I sprayed rust neutraliser over every bit of metal oxide I could find. The whole structure is surprisingly flexible, everything bent back into place quite easily, and by Sunday afternoon the front was starting to look more like a Honda again, and the bonnet was back to where it should be. It was solid enough to make the trip home, anyway, and to drive it round to Grandad's beforehand to spin Honda yarns and spot the differences between pre and post-facelift Accords. It was already missing parts of the grille moulding and a bumper insert though, which was a bit annoying, and the bits of chrome moulding it does have are bent. Not sure where to get replacements for these, I am unused to the lack of aftermarket support for anything that isn't an old Ford... I did however find some repro indicator/park lamps from a place in Otahuhu that turned up in the mailbox the next day, which was pretty sweet. I'll take some proper photos of it once the rain stops, but here are some phone snaps in the meantime
  19. 32 points
  20. 32 points
    Well its been a while since I've updated this thread. Mid July was where I last posted up anything of worth. Little Imp got parked up in the corner of the workshop so leaving anough space for our neighbours to make use of the shed while we took off to England for a decent holiday. Hannah got to catch up with her family, we both did heaps of cycling and running, had plenty of sunshine and beer plus I got to go along to the retro-rides gathering 2019! As I always do I had a fantastic time there and came away with boosted Mojo and lots of ideas. Before leaving the UK I ordered a few spare parts for the Imp... We got back to NZ in September, just in time for the start of spring. The Imp was sitting there tucked away, a tiny little puddle of oil under the sump just like a good little English car should have... First job was to fit the shiny new lenses. Hannah jumped straight into that, an easy but so very satisfying job to do... We then took the steering rack out and fitted the new centre gaitor. Hooray for a rack that holds oil... Having decided I was pretty happy with where the temp gauge needle sits once fully warmed up I carefully measured the resistance across the potentiometer I'd been using to adjust it. I then made a little joining lead fitted with a resistor of the same value. This replaced the adjustable item and should be it for the temp gauge. At some point in the future I may well make a new instrument cluster to suit the dash as I rather fancy having a rev counter in a place that I can actually see it ok. We have been driving the Imp since getting back to NZ as much as possible. On its first journey out since back I got this pic... We've had a few decent trips including a one really neat drive all around the local valley roads and hills, some gravel roads etc. Its so fun to drive. I'm really getting more confident with the handling and how to get the most from it. The engine seems fine and loves a good trashing. The carb is still a bit iffy with that worn out primary spindle still allowing some air to sneak in. I have ordered a new carb from China and will see how it goes. It was cheap enough to try and when I eventually fit injection I can sell the carb on. Whilst out on that really fun drive I got this photo. Shame I only had my phone as the sky was quite moody... After lots of driving I checked the plugs. They look fine with what I think looks to be a good colour... I thought it better to fit the fire extinguisher I bought before our holiday. It tucks away neatly behind the drivers seat... In other news I have been collecting many different parts needed for a conversion to fuel engine management. I just scored another megasquirt one (2.2) ecu plus a full loom and some edis bits - this time from our mate Rob in return for me doing some machining work for him... I need to decide on a few bits needed and also in which direction to go for the inlet layout. Maybe Itbs but maybe a plenum with a single tb. I foolishly dillydallied about when there was a full set of cbr900 ITBs on trademe for $55 including injectors and loom and subsequently missed out on them. At the time I wasn't sure about the suitability but for that money I could have made them work. Not sure on ideal throttle size but they were 40mm each which given the Datsun only has 30mm inlet valves I figure they'd have been plenty. Then I would have had all of the doorts! I'll keep looking... I'll be using a 36-1 trigger wheel, also supplied by Rob. Luckily there is ample room to mount it on the back of the main pulley. Both MS1 ecus I now have use the earlier version 2.2 board which don't have built in VR conditioner circuits. I can make a VR conditioner board and use VR sensor, of which I have many. Or I could use the Edis setup (which has a VR conditioner built in and uses a VR sensor) that came with the MS1, of which I suspect the ECU has been supplied already configured to use. I have never used Edis before. Hmmmm? Its a bit ugly and clunky though. I dont like the quite large ignitor box I'd have to sit somewhere. Or I can go with a Hall sensor but then I'll have to locate one from a wreckers- but what car? As usual I want to do this conversion as cheaply as possible because its just more satisfying for me that way. In my first few casual searches it seems that they are quite pricey and can be a bit frail or temperamental in use? More research is needed, of which I must say I do find to be one of the most fun parts of modifying! Oh also - I fitted a new speedo cable and now have a speedo needle that doesnt wibble-wobble all over the place. How thoroughly modern!
  21. 31 points
    in the last couple of days ive been doing a bit more. i dont actually know if im supposed to be or if its doing any damage but everything feels great and my back is super good so fuck it im going to play cars. so, last part of the fuel supply puzzle was making clamps for the fuel rail. today i did that. only made two because the belt on my linisher shit itself and i had to go get another one. i took some photos of how i did that. 2019-11-27_07-48-54 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-11-27_07-48-46 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-11-27_07-48-38 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-11-27_07-48-30 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-11-27_07-48-20 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-11-27_07-48-12 by sheepers, on Flickr
  22. 31 points
    Drivers door complete and only the boot lid to go and body work finished. Still trial fitting parts etc and once done it is off for the final blast and prime then off to paint.
  23. 30 points
    So this finally happened! Taken awhile and still little things I want to sort but will be good to be able to drive through summer!
  24. 30 points
    Well today the car passed the compliance recheck and I now have 12 months REG and 6 months WOF. Thanks to those that have helped me during the build. Now it’s time to relax and enjoy the old sled. Beer o’clock for me I will be parked up at chrome this weekend weather permitting. Come say hi.
  25. 30 points
    so @Mrs 64valiant sent me more photos to use in the post above so here are some of us putting the upholstery in. me sitting at our table beth laying on the bed for scale me, beth & boobs now on the bed. we went to raglan and had fush and chups for our 1st meal in the kombi. ft potato cam and me looking out onto the raglan harbor yeah cool story bro. I plan on taking a week and a weekend off for my 30th and driving it around the north of the north island so the goal is legal and 85% of its problems sorted by then.
  26. 30 points
    did a bit more. i gave the patches i put in a bit of a tidy up and made the whole car red. i got some rattle cans matched and just used them. i fucked up a bit on the passengers side around the wheel arch and didn't cover the primer enough so now its showing after i gave it a polish. ill blaze some more paint on that bit and call it good. i started trying to polish the paint to see if it would come up ok. it didn't. its better i suppose but the paint is pretty fucked. anywho, ive only done one side. ill paint the whole car at some point but i was kind of hoping it would come up a bit better. 2019-04-21_12-54-05 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-04-21_12-54-20 by sheepers, on Flickr
  27. 29 points
    Yay. So I started sanding and it became immediately apparent that there were a bunch of layers and lots of them are fucking nasty. There is a layer of black dulon in there which is fucking everything up. Nothing for it but to strip it all back to metal. Side sharn, I bought this car in 2006 but I'd seen the car in about 1999. At that stage it had a black engine bay and a 3T sitting in it. The rest was in primer. He must have primed over the black art some stage. So anywho, fast forward to today and most of the paint is gone. I'm feathering the edges where it's a real cunt to get to and hopefully the epotec will seal the nasties from coming through. Time will tell. On the plus side I'll probably get primer on it before crissy then it can sit for a while before I sand it. Give it some hope of settling down. Still got strut tops to do and the top of the firewall
  28. 29 points
    So entered this ol thing at the Smash Palace Bike show this yesterday. Seen a bike show near Gold coast earlier in the year and all the bikes had thier own displays so took some inspiration from it and I created a display that was fitting to and a Monty Python skit Im a LumberJack and im ok. I work all night and sleep all day. Quite fitting for me as ive worked night shift the whole time ive been building this bike. So I scored some wood chip from work and a few rounds and put a Axe and Saw into them and had this as my displaye. I won MVP of the show for my display which I was quite surprised about.
  29. 29 points
    2 months later i have all the bits to rebuild the bottom end. the heads are already finished and i have them back. parts, 9 to 1 CR Ross forged pistons (the cunts will not change the value of the parts on the shipping invoice so keep that in mind when deciding to use them or not) eagle H beam rods and ARP rod bolts ARP main cap studs and bolts new genuine Toyota oil pump theres heaps of other shit too but you get the picture. block will now be bored and honed to 88mm. rotating assembly will get balanced and ill get the short block back. then its reassembly time. good days. or maybe not good days. going in to hospital to get back surgery in about a month so that will fuck all progress for a while............... 2019-09-19_07-59-37 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-09-19_07-59-22 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-09-19_07-58-23 by sheepers, on Flickr
  30. 29 points
    hey also, here's a technical tip for those of you interested in the finer details of auto trans setup, if you want it to not leak fluid out the bottom, do up the drain plug. you got that?
  31. 28 points
    Well yeah, Bosch K-Jetronic.... I now understand why it's so widely hated. This will be a rather large post, as this covers about 6 weeks of work. The TVR has been out of commission for a while now, since the running issue was getting worse to the point it wasn't able to make it down the road anymore. The last update regarding the engine saw me remove the plenum and injectors to test them. This lead to the discovery that the flow was there, but the pattern was rubbish, so new injectors were sourced. New Bosch injectors for the cologne are big money, and I'm trying to sort this issue for minimal cost (within reason). There is a lot of discussion online about using Mercedes injectors in various KJet powered cars (mainly VW), and it all seems good, and the injectors are much cheaper. I found one single blog post on a foreign website, that once translated confirmed that the Merc injectors do indeed work on the Cologne V6. Good enough for me. The injectors in question are Bosch part number 0437502047, and I also got new seals, Febi 034133557E. I sourced both from FCP Euro. The Bosch boxes made me laugh. MECHANIC ONLY! You can see the obvious difference here. The new injectors are shorter, both in the overall length, but also in the hex part at the top. I can now confirm that these do indeed fit, and if you check the link to the other blog above, you can see that the injector does stick out into the intake tract less, but won't be an issue (and some say is better for intake flow). You can see the shorter hex here These are the plastic retainers. These sit on top of the O-ring, and appear to be what actually holds the injector into the manifold, by the metal retainer pushing down on the plastic retainer, which pressed down on the O-ring. The tapered face visible in the first photo is what sits against the O-ring. Due to the replacement injectors having a shorter hex, you cannot fit the retainer and O-ring, and then still have space to tighten the injector pipe. I found it easiest to slip the plastic retainer, O-ring and metal retainer on, leave them at the bottom of the injector, and then fit and tighten the pipe on the car. Once tight, then you slip the retainer and O-ring up into place. So that finally solves the mystery of the injector seal. It's a normal KJet O-ring, with a plastic retainer on it. With the new injectors sorted, they all got refitted into the manifold and secured with the metal retainer and screw. Next was to remove and clean the fuel distributor. This is the big weird thing on top of the air box, which feeds all the injectors. This has a plunger inside it, which the sensor plate presses up on as it opens. This plunger is known to get sticky when cars are left sitting. Mine was slow to return, and wasn't moving as free as it should. Carefully crack off all of the banjo fittings, including the feed and return on the side, and then remove the banjo bolts. Take care to collect all the copper washers, as there will be two on each banjo fitting. With the fuel lines disconnected this gives access to the three flat head screws that secure the unit to the air filter housing. Remove these screws. Now the distributor can be CAREFULLY removed. Make sure to slip a hand under it and stop the plunger from dropping right out. If it falls out and gets damaged, the whole distributor is a write-off! You can see the plunger in the center of the unit. With the unit on the bench you can turn it over and let the plunger slip out. If it doesn't freely drop out, it may need some compressed air in the top fuel fitting to push it out. Mine dropped out OK. Be VERY careful handling the plunger, and keep it very clean. I cleaned the plunger and its cylinder in the main unit, and sprayed and soaked all fuel ports with carb and brake cleaner. In the injector outlets there are individual filter baskets. I used a long, thin screw to gently screw into them, and then a sharp pull freed them They all had some traces of dirt on them, but nothing major. I soaked them in brake clean overnight and then refitted them The regulator was the last part to clean and overhaul. This resides on the side and is a 5/8" hex. I ordered a replacement seal kit from Delorean GO as they use the same part in their Kjet setup. The regulator kit is PN 102807A and I also got a new seal for between the fuel distributor and airbox, PN 102855 I used a small pick to remove the old seals, and replaced them with the new green ones. The old ones looked in good shape, I wonder if they had been replaced recently to try and fix the issue? Be careful handling the regulator too, just above the o-ring in the below photo are two very small shims. These set the fuel pressure, so don't lose them! You can add or subtract shims to increase or decrease system pressure. I also did the o-ring on the regulator piston, but no photo of that. That's about all I could do with the distributor without splitting it, and that is a risky job that could result in further damage or leaks. The next part to clean out was the (incorrectly named) Warm Up Regulator. This is the main control pressure regulator (the one above only controls the system pressure), and controls how rich or lean the engine runs. It has two bolts holding it down, two fuel banjo fittings, a power connector, and a vacuum hose. Mine was pretty grotty. A lot of parts on the engine have been badly painted grey, which is flaking off and being ugly. I'll deal with that another time. I could see some dirt in the inlet mesh already, so not a good start. There isn't a lot to break on these, but take care taking it apart. Opening it up is easy; there are four screws on the bottom, which when removed will split the two halves. There are a few things of interest inside the top half Orange Arrow - Adjustment pin for COLD pressure Green Arrow - Heater element Blue Arrow - Bimetallic Strip Red Arrow - "Mexican Hat" and pin Bascially, when the engine is cold it needs a richer mixture, like a choke on a carb. A LOWER control pressure will give this result. The springs in the bottom half press on the mexican hat, which pushes on the pin, which then places pressure on the diaphragm via a little cup. This force is countered by the bimetallic strip, which pushes down on the mexican hat when cold, reducing the internal restriction. Of course you couldn't run that rich all the time, so to lean it out when warm, the WUR is warmed by both engine ambient heat, and by a 12v heating element. This heat causes the bimetallic strip to slowly bow upwards, which releases pressure against the mexican hat, allowing it to rise up and towards the diaphragm, creating an internal restriction, raising the control pressure, and leaning the mixture. The cold pressure is set by adjusting how much the bimetallic strip pushes down on the mexican hat when cold. This is done by moving the adjustment pin up and down.... with a hammer and punch. Anyway, to continue disassembly you need to remove the clip that retains the heater connector. A large screwdriver to lever it out does the trick And then remove the 10mm nut from the bimetallic strip and remove it. Take note of the washer placement This is the fuel unit containing the cup and diaphragm. I have removed two of the screws already. The cup is in the middle, filled with grease (to lubricate and retain the pin) CAREFULLY remove the disk and diaphragm. Don't damage the diaphragm as its hard to get a replacement (although there are some rebuild kits on eBay now which may work). Removing these gives you access to the o-ring and fuel ports. One of them has a very fine five-layer mesh filter in it. Internet wisdom says to clean it, but not to remove it as it can cause issues with pressures if you do (reduces restriction). I hosed it from inside out with brake clean, and got a whole heap of what I can only describe as a fine sand from it. There was heaps. After much testing, I eventually went back and actually threw the disassembled top half into my ultrasonic cleaner, which seemed to clean the filter out well. I tested it by shining a light through it, and there were some big differences in how much light came through. There was almost no light passing through at first, before cleaning. Cool moody shot from that night I refit the distributor and WUR, and refit the fuel pipes I also plumbed in the fuel pressure testing kit, between the fuel distributor and WUR. The system pressure was a little low, it should be over 5BAR But the cold control pressure was crazy. It should be about 0.5BAR, not 3.6BAR! Keep in mind this is after only cleaning, but without any adjustments. No wonder the car was leaning out hard. Remember, higher pressure is a leaner mixture. This triggered the next couple of weeks messing with the system trying to iron out the pressures. I tried many things, including running the WUR naked, with no internals And setting the pressure with the adjustment pin, located here Then it all started to turn to custard, and the system pressure was low at about 4BAR, and wouldn't come up even with additional shims in the regulator. This lead to buying a replacement fuel pump. The old pump is pretty easy to remove. Four bolts hold the mount to the car, two hoses, and two wires need to be removed. I clamped the feed hose as the tanks had fuel in them now and set about removing the pump Pump on the bench The pump has an inlet filter in it, and this is what came out of that filter. It's not rust, which is good, but almost looks like fluff, some organic matter (bits of leaf?) and a lump of metal, which kinda looks like lead or solder. I might get a pre-pump filter. The new pump is bigger and slightly longer, but otherwise a direct replacement. I couldn't reuse the sleeve from the old pump, but reused the rubber insulator The old pump was a Bosch 0580464125. A good pump, but mine wasn't having a good time anymore. The replacement is a generic pump which met the required criteria (high flow, and up to 8BAR pressure). The new pump sounds nicer, but the system pressure hasn't changed much at all. I tried adding a whopping great washer as a shim on the regulator and finally got 5BAR pressure, but I'm sure that isn't right. I have had the WUR open so many times now that I can open it in about 30 seconds for adjustment, but I'm still getting weird results. Right now, the system pressure is around 5BAR with the extra shims. The cold control pressure should be about 0.5BAR (as that's what I dropped it down to after resetting the pin) but either it's very slow to rise on the gauge, or doesn't rise at all now. Warm pressure is about 2BAR, 0.9BAR too low. The new pump can obviously do the pressure, but its either being restricted or bled off somewhere. There are no leaks, and the fuel filter was replaced when I got the car (although I do now wonder about it after the pump packing a sad). Anyway, I reassembled the intake today, and removed the pressure tester And fired the car into life. It had some issues at first, but tweaking the mixture screw sorted that out and it idled OK, albeit a bit lumpy and revved on about 5 cylinders. The more I ran the car, the more it was happy to pick up all the cylinders and rev again. I set the idle by ear, and so far I have taken it for a dodgy run back and forth along my road, which it seemed OK. I haven't been brave enough to take it further yet as I might take a support car with me just in case it dies in the middle of the road again. I still want to know what the pressures are doing, but I suspect there is an issue with my pressure tester. Either that or I have a weird issue in my KJet system. I'm trying to source a second testing setup now to compare and see what happens. If I can set the pressures correctly, in theory I should be able to get a nice happy running car. Fingers crossed. Oh, it wouldn't be my car if it didn't spill some coolant. Thankfully I believe this is just from me overfilling the radiator, as it was from the overflow. Looks like it'll need a flush at some point too.
  32. 28 points
    This year has been a real rollercoaster. I've had far too many projects on my plate (and a lack of motivation to finish them), not much expendable income and a huge life change with my 5+ year relationship ending... So I've been planning on thinning the hoard, moving somewhere else and starting a new life. So when an old, rare 2 stroke bike showed up, the logical thing to do would be to pass on it. Right? WRONG. Enter the Wolf. This piece of Suzuki engineering is 1969-1971 Suzuki T90 Wolf. It's very closely related to a T125 stinger. My dad and I missed out on a T125 last year and we were gutted. It was a green one in "barn find" condition- but appeared to be missing the carbs: Then a wee while ago, @SOHC happened upon this old T90 Wolf that he and his friend used to ride around 15+ years ago. He said it would be available, so a deal was struck and I went to collect it over the weekend. It's a quirky wee beast and has some cool features like a seat that hinges backwards - I've never seen this style before. The seat has seen better days and needs a trip to midnight upholstery so @64valiant can work his magic on it. The frame, forks and motor are all bit dirty and there's some corrosion, but it's surprisingly good for a bike that's been sitting for this long. It needs a headlight, indicators, speedo cable (the thread is broken on the underside of the speedo unit) and the forks will need a bit of love to deal with the peeling chrome. I think a strip and re-paint will be good enough for starters. Eventually I'll strip this bike down and give everything a proper clean up. The frame could do with a blast and re-paint, the tank needs a small amount of rust cleaned up and a re-spray. Overall it's a very solid bike though! And runs amazingly well for something that's been sitting in a barn. All it took was a bit of fuel and it fired into life. Jeah! Rare, old, small capacity, 2 stroke, twin cylinder radness. This should be fun.
  33. 27 points
    Just thought I would update this just so it didn't disappear into the nevernever, but then realised I had actually made progress since I last posted on this thread. So firstly my excuses for not doing much... Got hit by a drunk driver, (he was speeding, no license, no WOF/reg since 2008, etc, real winner), lost control and crossed the centre line at well over 100kmh. Hit us and we did a barrel roll (at least one, not quite sure). Mum and our little dog were in the passenger seat, were mostly fine (Mum headbutted the window) but luckily avoided worse through sheer luck (it didn't actually land on her side at the front, went driver front, passenger rear, etc) and Mum held the dog as we went over so she came out unscathed. I however fractured my spine (roof came down to say hi to my head), luckily nothing too major as far as spinal injuries go (compression wedge fracture in my thoracic spine, loss of about 35% height on one side of one of the vertebra), but meant that I couldn't lift anything for what turned out to be about 3 1/2 months. Stupid thing was I was also reaaaallllly gutted about losing the van too (I know "it's just a vehicle, they're replacable, bla bla") but it was a 92 4WD 1KZ-TE Hiace Supercustom, and was fucking awesome. In really good nick, only 200,000kms on it (not a lot for one of them). Only had it about 5 months. Anywho, have mostly recovered from that (happened mid March), and then the other thing that has eaten my time is the tiny house in the background. Been working on it off and on, a lot of off while I did my study etc, for about 3 1/2 years, and it's finally almost done, move in in August is the goal. Will share photos in another thread at some point once it's finished and looks less like a building site. On to the ute, before the accident, I had actually made some progress and taken a few photos, so here goes: Bought adjustable arms for the rear, RAW shocks, Dobinson 4" lift springs, as well as an adjustable panhard rod, all roughly set up until I get the engine properly mounted and the front done so I can measure the angle on the output of the gearbox to get them equal. Sat the body on, and the shortened tray. Need to lower the cross bar to the height of the piece of timber that's clamped on there. Body is just sitting on the pieces of timber at the moment, but that puts it at the right height for everything to fit Mocked the front end up, tacked together the shs rad support so that I could mount up the radiator and intercooler (which is probably to small, will likely get on same thickness and width, just taller and notch the bumper so it sits in, then holesaw the front for airflow. Have done a bunch of research, small jobs, bits and pieces etc, since then, but not a lot. Once the container is done in the coming month, this will start getting time and money thrown at it again. I desperately need to get some paint on it soon (probably just primer until I have everything properly mounted and can do the bodywork), as the fine rust film on it is getting less fine, and it is a Datsun. A big part of going forward with this is getting the engine (RB25/30DET) so that will require some financing, hopefully in the form of selling my Mitsubishi Challenger. If anyone knows of one, preferably a runner as I don't want to do a refresh on it (for the sake of time/expense) at this stage, let me know. Also need to order some parts from Superior Engineering in 'Straya, so that is gonna cost some money too. Let me know what you think in the discussion thread: Cheers, Hayden.
  34. 26 points
  35. 26 points
    painted engine bits. not sure if ive mentioned before but im going to repaint the RA28 to a modern mazda red. i have the paint code written done somewhere but its a 2017-18 mazda red that i really like. anywho, the silver/black combo of the engine is meant to work with that red, not the shit dirt black/purple it is now. now that the engine is getting close to finished ill start painting the engine bay. as always i want ot change a few things around and do a few things etter thatn before so ill be doing that soon. but first here's the engine in paint. 2019-12-19_05-31-21 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-19_05-30-55 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-19_05-30-46 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-12-19_05-31-04 by sheepers, on Flickr
  36. 26 points
    I'll probably copy this sort of brace for the upper mount
  37. 26 points
    Whilst digging around the internet a few months back I came across a listing for my Thames dated around the end of 2010. This was just before the PO bought it and embarked on the bare metal restoration. At that stage the van was still in its original blue paintwork with heaps of patina. The wording for the listing is in pdf format so I'm unable to upload it, but it makes for interesting reading so I'll transcribe it into a posting when I get a chance. In the mean time here are some pics of the van as it looked back in 2010.
  38. 26 points
    We took the car to my dads workshop as he has a bit more gear than me for getting things free'd up, the initial goal being to get it to a state where it could be pushed around and easily moved about the limited space of my own workshop. We got it into the shed, jacked it up, squirted some CRC at the wheel studs and left it overnight. I came back the next day to start the mammoth task I was expecting to get the wheels off. Armed with a range of metric and imperial sockets, I found the nearest I had to the BSW (*shudder*) wheel nuts and gave an exploratory lean on the breaker bar for the first nut. It turned easily and then came off by hand... NO FUCKING WAY... I repeated this for all 12 nuts, yes it has 3 stud wheels! What I had set aside an afternoon for, took me less than 5 minutes. I later went to take the bonnet off it, it wasn't attached properly and only had one bolt in it. No tools required here, I undid this 82 year old bolt with my bare fingers... As I said earlier, this thing has given me a few surprises about how easy it is coming apart. This is probably a good point for an explanation... When grandad parked up a car for what he thought might be quite a lengthy period of storage, he had a habit of pouring a few gallons of waste oil over them. Makes a hell of a mess and collects every spec of dust and dirt, but it does an impressive job of keeping everything working. The 68 Rambler Rebel in the background was in the shed next to this, and everything on it moves and functions and it has minimal rust due to the oil protection. The floor pans in the austin look as though they have had a tube of grease smeared over them, but zero rust there. The only real rust on the Austin is around the spare wheel, and in the sills, where the oil didn't really get. I've been having a tinker to try and get the engine free'd up. So far I have managed to remove the head, exhaust manifold etc, all without any broken studs. Thanks grandad! In fact the only thing I have found seized up on the entire car so far is the lever for the folding front windscreen (and the engine...)
  39. 26 points
    So I have the crank ground and ready to go. So I got started on the Align hone. This block didn't necessary need align honing It was within book spec in the mains. I haven't fitted aftermarket studs which is another reason for a tunnel hone, the studs normally tighten the tunnel up due to the extra torque you can apply to the stud giving better clamping load. Another reason is if you have run the main bearings this can also put the tunnel out of round and or put a bend through the tunnel. Here's a picture of the cap dresser. I used this to resize the rods earlier on. This is the main cap in it. It ground about 3 thou off each cap. First picture is the cap ground and ready to be torque up back onto the block. The next picture is with the block in the Sunnen Align hone. Sunnen is one of the industry leaders in honing. Our block hone is also a Sunnen Cv 616. So I just refitted the main bearings to check clearance. I've got 2 thou vertical oil clearance in the tunnel. Its nice and straight now. This isn't something we do to every block as some don't need any attention. But most old blocks either weren't that great from the start or have had a hard life.
  40. 25 points
    Looks like i should be able to fix engine back to pretty much 100%, lockdown spec The bad; it has spun 2 big end bearings, shells in pic below were worst. All the rest of the bearings in the engine look pretty tired as well. Crank isn't too bad, but would need a grind to be usable. plus seems it has already be ground in the past, so in the bin it goes. Oil pump hasn't let go or anything but some bearing material has gone through it, bin as well. from there onwards everything looks clean, oil filter has done its job Good news is I have a bran new crank and oil pump. Both are for another project Ive been collecting parts for. Means that goes back down the list, but rather have this thing running. Rods are all good. some very light marks on one of them, shouldn't be an issue. pistons and bores look perfect, although i haven't taken pistons out as may not be able to get hold of a ring compressor. Have managed to sort some new main and rod bearings, should be here early next week. Have also done the oil restrictor mod, to the oil gallery that feeds the head. keep more oil in the sump at high rpm Tl;dr : putting this junk back together with new crank, oil pump & bearings.
  41. 25 points
    Gave it a coat of wd 40 before I wrapped it, tried to keep it away from the seams as much as possible but it did the trick, theres a couple of panels that I didn't do but even they aren't as horrific as I thought they would be. The worst of the surface rust is here, But is pretty minor. The roof on this garage was totally poked so mum had some new iron out on last summer.. Soooo much drier in here now which I guess helps with corrosion. This door wasn't coated for some reason.. Still, not bad really, just surface shit. Another shot just because.. Fuck I've got too much shit..
  42. 25 points
    got the hinges working on the flip front tonite
  43. 25 points
    IMG_20191111_174007 by John Bell, on Flickr
  44. 25 points
    I've owned this car for over 20 years now, after buying it off my Dad while it was off the road. We stripped it back to bare metal, rebuilt the 1800 engine, and put it back on the road. Then came an engine swap to a 2L supercharged engine from a Lancia Beta Volumex. It was great to drive, but I have my gripes. Then life moved on and I parked it, as it wasn't the best daily driver at the time. Unfortunately weather triggered rust, it went into a state of disrepair before I found some dry storage. More than a decade later I'm ready to restart the project, with a number of changes. This seems like a good place to document the build for others. Immediate plans are to strip the exterior of trim, windows etc, pull the engine, strip the interior of the dash, carpet, seats. Then prep the rust affected panels. There is a lot of paint lifting straight off bare metal, so something in the original prep must have gone wrong. Will be addressing that this time around. Discussion thread here.
  45. 25 points
    have been thinking about the air feed and was going to weld a recessed plate into the bonnet for the scoop but the bonnet has so many curves i think i might stuff it up.....so had a re think. made a card board airbox to see how much room i have to play with once i had marked out the area on the bonnet and drilled the holes for the scoop i took the bonnet off and flipped it over. the bonnet its self has indentations on both sides and they are almost perfect for the Porsche air filter.. i marked out the area needed for the filter and cut it out....needed to make a wee bit more room. trial fitted the filter again i then made some sides and back so that the filter can now slide in from the front and be held tight and sealed to the bonnet refitted the bonnet and checked the hole for placement filter in and scoop on. im pretty happy with it so far
  46. 25 points
    Really fun weekend at the Kaspa Transmissions CAR-nival. It's a 3 day track meet with cruising, drags, drift, burnouts and racing. The drag racing was super fun. The car was hooking up perfectly and I managed to win the drag racing tournament in the Naturally Aspirated class!! I was up against some tough competition in the form of a 300KW Holden Commodore, and 396ci big block Holden Premier and another big block HQ Holden. I also went up against a 323, Intgra Type R and an RX7 but that wasn't really a fair fight. I was quite surprised that I managed to beat the big block chevs, I guess it was just down to how light my wagon is and how well it hooks up. Here is a video of all of my runs, I went undefeated 7-0 nd they had a sweet as trophy, I also won best engine bay but they didn't have the trophy there so they will send it out to me. Had a real blast hooning around the track. Went a bit too hard on the first day and wore out my brake pads. It was a total nightmare trying to find some Wilwood race pads at 4:30pm on a Friday in Taupo. None of the brake shops down there had any so I had to call around my friends and found one of them who had a close enough match, so I had to drive out to his place with pretty much no brakes and swap some pads over. In the morning I had to go get the rotors skimmed. The petrol stations loved me down there. The Avenger is pretty good on gas when you are on the road, but it chews through the gas on the track. Discuss
  47. 25 points
    Been having tons of adventures in the wagon. Won a few more awards. Best 8 Cylinder at 4 and rotary jamboree And my favourite, the "What the ?" award from the Automania festival. Pretty much sums up the wagon You put a V8 in what??? So, back to my adventures and what not. I decided on the spark plug cover look I liked the most so I went with just the plain black covers. It worked quite well because I had heaps more people asking what the engine is, so I guess it fools them just enough without the V8 FOUR CAM 32 badge on it Before my trips I figured I would find a new brake pedal pad, I found it a hoot that it is a dodge truck part! Looking sweet, I will have to get another for the clutch at some stage, they are both the same pad So with the engine sorted and the brake pedal sussed I went for a cruise down to feilding for the 4 and rotary jamboree. I stayed at a sweet little B&B just outside of town. Got to Manfeild on Saturday for the track day, super excited because it is the only track in NZ that I haven't done a track day on, so I can tick every track in NZ off my bucket list now. Got out on track then on the first lap disaster stuck!!! The track had been used for field days the weekend before so it was super dirty, and the car in front of my chucked up a rock, smashing my windscreen!!! I drove the rest of the lap with my hazards on and my head out the window. When I got back to the pits I gave my friend Jared (A.K.A @JoKer) a ring and got him to bring me a spare windscreen over from Dannevirke. While he was making his way over I drove down to the local glass place and got them to swap the windscreen over. I got some funny looks cruising down the main road of feilding with a busted windscreen in a V8 Avenger, it was only about 1km from the track so I just drove with my head out the windows. Made it back to the track with the new windscreen just in time for the afternoon session. As a thank you, I took Jared for a cruise around the track. It was quite a blast My favourite picture of the wagon out on the track Out on the track I had a bit of a lean backfire off throttle so I pulled the car off the track early and set it up in the show and shine, After the show and shine I found the problem was the idle adjustment screws on the back right pair of throttle bodies had vibrated up so those throttle bodies weren't closing fully, fixed it in the car park. On the way back home I stopped in at Horopito, AKA Smash Palace to get me some wagon parts. They have a few Avengers there, 2 wagons and 4 or 5 saloons. Got me a good haul of parts, got some rear bumper brackets to replace the ones I had to borrow from the 75 Avenger when I swapped to the NOS Hillman bumper on the wagon. Got me a tow bar because there is nothing cooler than a V8 Avenger wagon towing stuff, am I right?? And also a pedal box for a friend, and a new door card. Got back home and gave the bumper brackets a good sand blast Then painted them with black zinc paint The next weekend I went off to @Ned house warming down in Taupo, So I figured I would camp out in the wagon on his front lawn. I am really digging the wagon for camping. The bed mode is really comfy, so I think I might do that more often rather than staying at hotels. On the way back up I meet up with the Hillman Humber club and we did a run out to a truck museum. Pretty good turn out. We had 3 Avengers there!! Then the weekend after that I had the Automania festival!! I entered my wagon in the indoor show. I figured I should actually get a photo with the bonnet down as 99% of the time it will have it's bonnet up, because V8! I went with a nice little in car display of some of my old Avenger sales brochures. I especially like the one on the back of the drivers seat because it has all the original prices hand written and a dealers stamp on the front, it must have been kept all these years by someone who was thinking of buying one, it's either 1979 or 1980 so it's from the exact era of my wagon, and even has the van pricing on it, and that you only needed 30% deposit, rather than the 60% deposit you needed for a normal car or wagon. I also entered my 1975 Avenger in the outdoor show. It was raining all day so my poor little Avenger Panther felt very unloved while it's younger brother sat warm and dry inside (Can you tell I have a favourite child at the moment?)
  48. 24 points
    been doing some wiring. i found it pretty hard to take a photo that showed what ive done so the pix are a bit shit really. just imagine i had no loom at all, then i did. its a whole new world having new plugs and looms to make everything. i learned a whole bunch making this and im really happy with how its come out. i now have the body interface to sort out which will be a cool process and ill be able to fix heaps of stuff. bit of fucking around and then i can put the motor back in the car. 2020-01-23_07-16-12 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-01-23_07-15-57 by sheepers, on Flickr
  49. 24 points
    Who knows about injector pumps? A bit smokey when you put your foot down (but otherwise fine) makes me think there is something worn in here... So whats the plan....? Firstly, I cant touch it until my mini is done... Last WOF was in 2018 so somewhat thinking of just putting it through seeing if the list is managable and using it from there. But long term I want to pull the whole thing down a do a chassis swap to a late model hilux/navara etc and build it up from there. Will respray and refit as much interior as possible to make as comfortable as possible. Only thing which would prevent that is if I have to rego as a 'scratch build' and do a cert from there. Otherwise would either repower or rebuild the running gear and do a disc brake/power steering modification. Time will tell.... Discuss
  50. 24 points
    its had the b pillars moved back and made into a two door .dash has been changed too
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