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Tank back in. Got most of the fuel system sorted. new pump etc, just few lines up front to do at later date. Made a new bracket for the filter, rather than the china fuel pump bracket. Almost had it finished and was doing some questionable machining methods. It grabbed and few out of the chuck, bounced across the bonnet of starlet parked a few meters away. which turned it into pretzel. I then proceeded to beat it straight with hammer and re-machime all the faces. come out surprisingly well considering Made a base plate and got it mounted Wont be room to run an airfilter on the straight shot version of the intake. so i'm keeping the middle ground clear for an air filter to go there at a later date Throttle pedal showed up, so got that mounted. Was only about 160 for a bran new genuine toyota pedal. so went that way rather than sifting around for some old junk bent the arm so could make a flat adapter that bolts to the original mount, said mount flexes a little, but should be fine random brackets and stuff Was hoping to get everything buttoned up at rear of car. but amayama sent me the wrong brake hoses, which need to redo some of the brake lines. chucked a seal kit through the calipers. they were a but crusty but pistons were good once cleaned up. so just the brake lines and brackets to go Its still filthy, but picture of car for thread

Seats have been returned from the upholsterer and installed and the front seat decking has been sorted. The spare outboard is semi hidden at the front by the decking. I'll have to see how it goes in a decent bit of chop if it needs a latch to hold it down. The front seat decking is just boring old kwila they had on sale at the local mitre 10 but planed down to 12mm because it doesn't need to be that heavy especially above the water line. I took the trailer in to get plates and a wof and it got pinged on a light being out. I fixed it on the spot but the bloke told me I'd have to get back into the queue which was a mile long so I'll go back in the next day or so at lunch to get sorted. Frustrating but that's the VTNZ experience for you. Once the trailer is home I can put the boat back on it and begin on something I'm really looking forward to doing and that's sorting the bigger outboard with remote throttle. Also this week the rudder hardware should be done so I can start working on the mile long tiller.

12 months to the day.

I have the drive shaft back. I had it done locally by Quality auto Machinists in Hastings. It was longer than the Toyota drive shaft I supplied so they had to use a complete new tube, make up a rear yoke spacer as the Hillman shaft dia was smaller and balance it and fit new universals. It looks good and bang on the money to the measurements I gave them. I also bought one of those drive shaft safety loops. It's width was to large for the Minx drive shaft tunnel so it received an adjustment in the vice to close it up a bit. A little trimmed off one of them and new holes drilled and will have a doubler plate inside the car.

This is the kinda fucked up weirdness that makes this place great after all these years. Cannot wait to tell my "car mates" about this one. Love that you are keeping the original engine, see if One NZ will sponsor you.

Officially drag'ed. Great day out enjoying the car with friends and family. Just jumping in the car, starting it, and driving it made it worthwhile. I actually can't wait until I can daily drive this car - it's going to be so cool (and make all the effort worthwhile!). Edit - check out Finley tucking into the dinosaur lollies while mum & dad aren't watching. Cheeky bugger! One for the pool room here. Finley loved all the different colour cars even though some were loud. Yellow ones were her favourite. 14.2 @100mph is the best I could manage. Interestingly, I did this in my second run without thinking too much about it, and by the afternoon and a bit more trying/finesse in getting off the line that's all I could get it down to. Ended up launching at 3000rpm and still wheel spinning through first before I could get to WOT. The heat definitely played a part, heat-soaking the IAT and showing intake temps of between 40-50deg C. Among other things, this pulled some fuel which isn't ideal. @kpr has suggested a few tweaks to the tune but nothing major until I can give it a proper well-rounded road shakedown. Snapped a few pics in the morning light. I love the side profile with the wheels tucking. A few good takeaways: Clutch - stopper definitely helped my driving, knowing theres a physical stop before it mashes the thrush bearing into the crank was reassuring. Shifter - Linkages are getting sloppy again after my temporary fix - re-designing and printing a few linkages needs to be high priority in new year IAT position in bottom of airbox needs some heat sheilding or relocation to prevent heat soaking while sitting in traffic/start line. Temps had dropped by end of strip, but still +10deg above ambient. New brake master worked awesome. Way better pedal feel and no issues. Makes me wonder if my clutch master needs replacing too (has been sitting round same length of time). Rear circuit master is newer but still 3-4yrs of sitting around. It makes fucking great Dooty noises Other than that, everything worked as it should. Car stopped/started all day and didn't leak anything. Call that a win. Great day by all, thanks for those who organised it!

Loaded up and delivered with a mountain of parts to Fastblast, communication was a bit slow to get started, probably cos he's a busy man! I can see why Blaine is so reccomended, he was was quick to say what was and wasn't possible, hopefully get this back before the break with the undersides and engine bay nice and clean.

There's the good story about some guy trying to prove that LPG in a car AC system was perfectly safe by letting the lpg leak into the cabin and igniting it and blowing up the car and injuring everyone watching. But yeah if it isn't leaking into the cabin and you're not ignoring the pungent odor of lpg and lighting a dart it's pretty not dangerous.

For interests sake, I pulled the old master apart tonight. Yup leaking from front seal with a buildup of gunk/alloy shavings. Scuffing on the bore doesn’t seem too bad, but there is some. Thanks man, I didn’t know what to expect, and was super surprised at how hard it was to get it to hook up. Numbers seem to be consistent with lots of other people with similar setups, unless they’ve spent heaps of time at the track and refined their setup. 100% agree even a good 15” road tyre would make a world of difference.

I too run LPG in my daily, A+ would trade again. in reality the fuel load from a few 100gs of lpg will doo very little in terms of accelerant if the car is on fire compaired to the 50 or so litres of petrol. Not to mention that it is unlikely to hang around in the event of a punctured system. I used camping gas in the 450g cans, here they are a mix of propane and butane, or pure butane, so I fiddled around with the mix to get it to be cold without freezing.

Just when you think you've seen it all OS pulls another one out of the bag. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out!

Just need to make it clear this guy is not from Northland, he is from a boat, conceived on a boat, Probably makes love to a boat too We run a tight ship up here and don't tolerate this kind of behavior

I wanted to keep the factory (1nzfe) motor in the car for simplicity, the fact that I just like them and yes fuel economy.. so I set about adapting a t40 transmission to fit. I went with the t40 transmission as mainly a mock up for a future t50. I wanted to use it as supposed to a j160 as it’s on the smaller side so I have to do minimal modification to my transmission tunnel and it will be more than capable for what I’m wanting to do with it. I started off using a t2 bel housing which was a lot cheaper than cutting up a 4age housing. The t2 one was a lot longer than what the 1nz clutch assembly was used to so the input shaft didnt reach therefore a simple adapter plate wouldn’t work. I then decided to use the fwd bell housing and adapt off that. I had to keep the end off the t2 bell housing still as it has bearing supports at the end of it. The clutch assembly is all still the same as the standard fwd setup and the input shaft from the t40 has the same spline count so it all worked quite well. I will attach a photo below of how I adapted it. thank you Dudley in this group for supplying me with the transmission.

Finally, someone good from Northland on the forum

Plenty of procrastinating going on around here to avoid welding in the seat tabs, but finally got around to it this afternoon. I had wanted to push the back end of the car out of the shed so i had more room/less flammables, but the steering box is in the blue shitter as it had no steering or hubs when i picked it up. Did not have enough enthusiasm to swap it back so settled for pouring water on the floor and having mrs baldy in charged of the compressed airgun and a bucket of rags and water. Couple of plug welds and a half blind buttweld later and bracket #1 was on. Set some 70s undersealer in the wheelarch smouldering and realised i couldn't get out of car fast enough to keep an eye on things, so that is when i called the mrs to help. Cooled it down, brushed off the loose paint, and took photos for the cert folder before hitting with blank zinc. Heavily so it could run down between. Future will all be stripped and repainted anyway. Then took a bunch of measurements and copied the placement on the other side. Once paint had dried i just had to testfit the seats and check everything. Except they don't fit! When i made sure the seats fitted between the arches, i didn't have the brackets attached. So while the seat does fit, the pivot clips are 5mm too wide for the brackets that are now welded in. These buggers here. Now the stud piece has a hex on it so you would think it was designed to come off. Wrong again, it is welded to the seat frame. Boooo! However with some precision use of a cutting disc and a power file i think i can move each groove and step down the shaft 2.5mm on each side. Will give it a damned good shot anyway. Sometime in march i reckon.

Introduction. Hello, this is what I hope to be a build thread for me converting my Toyota Platz to rwd. A Platz for most people seems an odd vehicle to put money in to and spend this much effort on, but I come from a background of vitzs so naturally I had to do something to the sedan version. I want to create something unique and different and show potential of these strange commuter cars. Here is a photo of the base car. I have to mention this project is based around chopping the car as minimal as possible so it still has the ability to revert back to fwd for legality reasons. This adds the the complexity of not being able to just hack it up and use a Silvia subframe so it will end up being more of a bolt in a fair. Another factor is that it will be slammed on 13s and when doing that the centre point of the hub is almost inline with the chassis rails so this means it isn’t possible to use a solid rear axles either. I look forward to sharing my progress on here.

In the bin. It tells the ecu when you are turning the steering at idle and it bumps up the revs a bit.

Do AC evaparators even have connections inside the car these days? My next AC project will be the chevy, and they whole evaparator is outside the cabin, so short of a leak in the actual tube and fins then there is no risk of it putting LPG into the cabin.

yeah, cool project. keep up the good work!

My carina with beams did a 14.2 and 97something mph. With the supposed benefit of rwd in a car weighing roughly the same. That was the best after a few events too. 14.2 and 100mph is awesome, especially considering its got lots of front camber and non drag tyres. Easy 13s if you had drag tyres on.

You've probably already figured this out, but my assessment of the shape is the movement is in the corners. the up/down force is really well supported. Often, small Radii on the inside can help (even 5-6mm dia can be beneficial), but ultimately you want to tie the two sides together and maybe back to the top with some form of triangulation. Could be a bolt-on piece or included in the design? Consider front, back or both locations? maybe even fabricated from tube after the fact? /my 2c. Looking forward to seeing this make a comeback next season!

@Rhyscar If you legitimately want good performance I think the only way is to go for ceramic mat and stainless sheet. I first came across this process from these dudes in Finland, https://www.kylmalakustoms.fi/ and was pretty impressed by the videos he put up about it on his instagram. Since then I looked into it myself, and after talking to a buddy of mine that races the Stockholm open, it turns out that all you really need is the raw products and a battery cell spot welder, all of which you can get on Aliexpress. I'll probably do my exhaust manifold and dump pipe on the truck once I actually settle on the turbo configuration, but I think that would suit what you are after. Ceramic Blanket Stainless Sheet Spot Welder

He owns a platz, I think that’s sufficient enough for suffering

Just making something east west mid engined is a bit of a lame way to make it RWD I reckon. Not enough suffering involved

Yea na im gearing it towards more of a drift car and putting an engine in the rear would mean lots of chopping which goes against my whole idea of being able to swap it back to fwd for a wof.

Ive just stuck Jamex springs in mine they seem to be excellent value progressive wound low but not stupid low, Zach made a good call he paid for Konis why waste them sitting on bumpstops. Will get new bumpstops in with some different springs soon, Until then we've got some travel for getting milk and bread. Hes influenced 100% by stuff he's seen on here over years and by me so if you cringe he probably saw it here first....... and i probably posted it. Car actually looks pretty good now he's pretty handy with a vacuum and polishing garbage up into something presentable.

I used a jig to align the the hub mounts and then weld them on. I went for 8mm think plate combined with another 6mm plate instead of the smaller original size of 5mm. I will have to notch the center of the beam for the rear diff to pass under it. I will be using a r180 diff from a c33 laurel which still seems overkill for such a small car and I’m also convinced this rear end already weights more than the whole engine. I have started making a diff cradle which bolts on to the two rear tow eyes are and it also shares the same mounts as the rear beam. The diff cradle doesn’t represent the final product, Ideally I’d like to bend the tube nicely but for now all I really want to do is prove the theory. I have attached a photo of where I currently am with the rear end design.

Originally I wanted to make a tubular subframe that bolts in using McPherson suspension and front hubs in the rear but after making a few mock-ups I found this idea would prove to be difficult as I was still having clearance issues working around a fwd chassis. I would also not be able to run a cable hand break so I gave up with this idea. I then started to research bolting 4wd Corolla hubs on to the rear beam and working around the standard Platz suspension. I found that there were no bolt in hubs so I’d have to modify the mounting anyway. I then though you know what stuff it why don’t I use Nissan 4 stud hubs. They are proven to stand up to the task, can fit 13s and are already 4x114.3. One of my friends kindly donated me some rear hubs and axels and I got to work designing mounting points for them. I designed some some plates in Onshape for plasma cutting which was quite a learning curve for me.

I mean I could put the us800s off of pizza planet onto it when I need it haha.

Had a bit of a misfire driving back from Omokaroa (Free pizza at the Village Green on Sundays if you take a pre-1990 car) a couple of weeks ago. Left it in the shed until the following week when we took it to a Friday night thing up in the hills of Waikino. It hadn't fixed itself. One the way back after dinner at the Waikino pub it was getting worse, including a couple of massive backfires coming in to Waihi. Did make it home but barely perhaps. I wondered if the dizzy had moved but it seemed fine. Next on the hit list was the Pertronix ignitor thing, I put this in the car maybe 20 years ago or so and haven't had any issues in that time. For a long time I carried the old point set and condenser in the trunk, but it wasn't there any more. Had a hunt around and finally found them, still in the original box. So hoicked the modern thing out And put the good old kettering ignition points back in And it has been all good for a couple of runs to the beach since. I do need to tweak the timing a bit as I can hear some pinging, can't find my timing light yet so I might try it with a vacuum gauge which I did find. Probably won't bother with another pertronix since it doesn't see many miles these days.

Made it to OS drags. Blew an intercooler pipe off on the way there but was an easy fix, cheers @Tumeke for the tools! Then it was in to trying to figure out how to launch this thing. Spoiler alert - i sucked at it. Anywho, first pass was 13.99 and i got better from there. Unfortunately I had to leave at lunch time so I only got 5 runs in. Best I managed was a 13.0 whilst still driving off the line like a geriatric with a zimmer frame (foreshadowing) but all that aside the fact that I got the fucking thing there at all is still sinking in. What s fucking battle. Anywho, here we are. I'm to ashamed to tell Dick how I disrespected his 10 second legacy in this car so I'll just have to go back next year and do better.

Road testing the carb changes showed the needle change made more of a difference than I thought. Drivability was the same but AFR sat on 13-14 in cruise. Nice having a temp gauge that works too. Was bloody hot but engine temps sat in the middle which I assume is good.

Cracker day for it, apart from needing physio for my back due to the roads vs my suspension, great day was had. Good to catch up with you lot.

After a bunch of hectic late nights I got everything sorted and car on the trailer for drags. Passed scruitineering and ready to roll! I had a whole bunch of hectic late nights and was starting to question my sanity for trying to get to drag day. But I did it, and that in itself put a big grin on my face. Cool stuff first... Banged out some big rpm! Almost got to my initial goal of 10k rpm and nothing blew up. The quarter mile times were slow as I wasnt trying any launches yet, and gear shifting was still a little problematic (or maybe the driver was) But made some cool noises! My main problem of the day, and what made me call it a day after only 3 runs. Was that the ethrottle motor on one side was shutting down sometimes. What makes this doubly bad, is that this was the bank that has the TPS that my fuel map runs off. So when the throttles start to shut on that side only. The other bank runs lean and gets a bunch more timing pumped into it. Not good. So decided to call it quits before I damage the engine for unfun reasons. I suspect that the reason it had a problem, is my ethrottle motor bracket started warping. This yellow bracket was only meant to be a dimensional test piece. I finished printing an incredibly solid version from PETG-CF, that finished mid day, on day before the drags. Unfortunatley I found that the only reason the yellow one actually fit, was because it could flex slightly. As it was actually 3-4mm out. So there was no way my other one would fit, and I didnt have time to print another. So I was lucky that it still ran at all and I could get some passes in. For my 3rd run I tried putting my drag slicks on, and had the launch control setup. But ethrottle packed up almost immediately so it bogged off the line and just died. I definitely need to put a better final drive ratio in. First gear was going to 70kph, 126kph in 2nd, then crossing the line at 8700rpm in 3rd. I'm not making use of any of the good gears in a J160 box! I dont think a 4.7 will make enough of a difference so I'll look at ordering a 5something at some point. It will probably pay to get some brand new driveshafts made when doing this, as the shaft speed is going to become considerably higher. On the whole though, super stoked to have made it there, and made it back with a car that still goes. I've got some problems to sort, but they're all sortable. Keep plugging away it!

Upper console completed and wrapped. just need to wire ip the head unit once my speaker mounts are done. ill get a hideaway am/fm antenna so i can crank the Breeze on long drives.

Decided to chuck the MS-01s back on. boy I really do love these wheels. i just purchased a set of barrels off Tim Woods son, Cooper. 7s for the front and 8s for the rear. these from memory were 8.5 and 9, or 9 and 9.5. I forgot. but it will allow for a narrower front tyre if I change to the 7s. and almost finished the upper console build. I bought a fancy head unit for it and made all of the mountings etc. the balsa ends up just being a skin and will be wrapped in black vinyl along with the rest of the console parts. I just need to play with mounting the e-fan display and cutting the hole for that, then it will be wrapped and finished off. i fitted both under seat subs/amp combo things, and have a cabinet maker making up some speaker mounts for the 4” mids and the tweeters will sit next to them.

I also just got home from a quick lunch time scooter strop to the hospice shop. That's the red rear seat base and the stained front seat base fixed for $9.

It's cute that you clowns think I don't already have range rover diff centres in the parts bin along with a billion other parts that I'll never use.

Got a new Job so brought brought a Dash AIC - RD3 I really like the fast load time Still gets driven about once a month, need to replace the Vtec solenoid as its shat the bed was $500 for a new b18c one and it has an ugly oil pressure switch - geeze it falls flat on its face at 7k with no cam (must be what a sr20 is like) so can't wait to get it fixed

Got the driveshaft welded together. Dropped it off to engine guy to get balanced. Decided to check the axles before putting them back in diff properly. gave the faces a skim which were a touch off. Checked the pcd. 3 out of the 8 studs were a touch off so corrected them. over all they were pretty decent considering i didn't have a way to do them super accurate back in the day. Also they had 2 spare holes on one side from the original 5 stud pattern, drilled 2 more 180 out from them, in an effort to make axles less out of balance Math slightly off on my coil over mounts, so car is a little lower. I could just wind the coilovers up, but thats an illegal move in northland

A few folds and welds in the right places and it gets very capable fast.