Leaderboard

After a bit of fucking around tidying up some wiring and whatnot is time to put it back together. Spent hours, 5 cans of brakeleen and 10 litres of petrol trying to get the oil residue out of the block. It's fairly clean but I'm going to have to flush it heaps to get it all out. Cleaned the head then or it back in.

Well she got washed and dropped off to the certifier. this paint just blings off in the sun, love it I know there will be a couple of things that I only noticed when I dropped it off. Couple of grommets around the front brake lines and 3 P clips instead of the factory metal fold over tabs. and I wasn’t aware that you need receipts for braided fuel line. of course I never kept that, so I just purchased 4m of -6an ptfe that I’ll swap out just to not be a Kent. for a hardcore hotrod guy he actually thinks it’s awesome. But he did also rate the hunter. hoping the list doesn’t get too big. Did supply a flash drive of the build photos for the seat mounts, handbrake set up and anything else that was cunty to remove or covered up.

The ignition gremlin may have been discovered.... When the dash was out I pulled all the wiring and tidied it up. As part of that..The ignition key switch had seen better days with wires soldered, cut and shut, terminal blocks, and splice connectors and the whole catalog of DIY auto sparky thrown at it. And busted locking tabs too. Cue raiding the parts stash and a tidy one acquired + fitted to the car... A few years later and here we are The replacement switch had the same colour wires, same pin-out pattern, and same length wiring BUT the actual switching inside works completely different to the original one. Parts stash has been raided again and one with the original switching pattern has been found... Fingers crossed for fire-up very soon.

Nearly done, just trying to decide about doing figures. Just need to finish the base & tracks and then nail it all together.

Haha, cheers. I guess what you might want to consider / rescale to. Is the fact that the Echo was 800kg flat (excluding 100kg driver) and the Carina is 990kg. This is where Kris' starlet excels, its got the power of my V6 and the weight of the Echo! Anyway, you should have a geez at the program called "CarTest2000" It's great. It's what I used to test the concept of the echo initially, as well as some other combos including the carina options I was considering aside from the V6. This is the carina with 9000rpm limiter: Where the lines cross over, is the best shift point. So you can see that 1st gear and (to a lesser extent) 2nd gear sucks big time. If I set the limiter to 9700 rpm with same power: Can see that the car will be faster because it doesnt eat shit on the gear change so badly. With power "as dynoed" this program speculates that it will run a 12.8 @ 108mph which seems fast. But for whatever reason it's assuming my car can do an absolutely hectic 60ft time, which so far it hasnt managed anything like that. I think a a 2.3 or a 2.5 sec 60ft is best so far (on semi slicks or street tyres) as this car axle tramps so badly. It needs traction brackets, but, I might just be able to brute force the issue with the drag tyres. The two variables which HUGELY affect the overall time and MPH. Are how long the gear shifts take, and how much more slippery I make the track to try get the 60ft time to a higher number. In saying this, a friend with the same bias ply 205/60/13 tyre has run a whole bunch of 1.6 sec 60fts in a 323 wagon. Which is incredible. Fingers crossed for a sub 2.0 60ft! In saying this, there's so many untested moving parts in this car so far. That I'm not expecting miracles first time out with the new motor. It's bound to have some sort of issues on the day. Fingers crossed they are minor ones.

The modified swing arm is coming together. It’s taken some mega stuffing about to get it square but I think it’s there now. still a huge amount left to do and only a week before the king country crusade!

I decided to make an auxiliary fuel tank out of an original air filter. This bike will run a uni filter, so this will help maintain some of the original look. Im trying to achieve a resto-mod kind of style that pulls in lots of ties to the original bike.

I pulled the car out into the sunshine today and gave it a hose off while I am busy waiting. I did contact them, and they are busy waiting as well which is good as we are all busy. I am quite tempted to lower the front valance and bottom of the front guards so that they cover the front X member. I don't think I will be destroying any structural integrity as the valance is more holes than steel. I think it would quite good with a mesh type grill there under the front bumper. I don't think it will be that hard to do. I have done the flare on the passenger side so it gives clearance through full suspension travel which is huge, but I don't like it. It's fugly. I have been looking on lvvta site and suspension drop is measurement of 40mm is given but not compression. I see a lot of cars with flares so close to the tyre that I can't see how the don't rub. How do they get around this. Can I limit travel in compression with longer bump stops, stiffer rear springs, both?. I like the driver side flare as it fits nicely with the front flare but doesn't allow full travel in compression.

Something that has been irritating me for a while is this: Happens every time I have more that a quarter of a tank on board and its got to the point where it is starting to discolour the clear coat. So time for me to do something about it. First up a bit of background to the issue: In original factory format the van comes out with a non vented fuel cap that looks like so: Under normal circumstances the non vented cap works perfectly as the fuel tank is equipped with a little breather inlet that draws air in through a piece of hard pipe that is looped up in the right hand rear fender well. Now in my case the Toyota 3Y engine has a return line on the factory fuel pump that looks like so: Back when I did the engine swap I cunningly ran a return fuel line from the pump back to the tank and repurposed the breather inlet for the returning fuel. Then in order to let the fuel tank breathe I installed this vented cap which not only allowed in air but also enabled me to protect my precious fuel with lock and key: Clever me ..... not. Little did I realise at the time that I was busy creating a source of ongoing irritation. Anyhoo, what to do. So first step is to ditch the non vented fuel cap. Easy peasey, just go back to the original cap that was languishing in my box of spares. Thoughts of fuel theft be damned I say ! But how do I vent the tank ? Well how did Toyota do it ? Aah, I'm glad you asked. They had one of these: Vent pipe built into the filler neck. Damn clever those Japanese ! However, not so easily replicated on my van as the factory filler neck tapers down from the cap end and pushes snuggly through the rubber body grommet from the outside. So there is no way of getting a similar vent pipe through the body hole. I briefly toyed with the idea of trying to fit a gubbins like so into the Thames filler neck: But ended up putting that idea aside for now. My next thought was to see if I could make use of the Toyota fuel tank neck (I have two of these leftover from my donor vans). Quickly pulled out the Thames neck and laid it alongside one of the HiAce necks for comparison. The difference in pipe diameters is more noticeable at the cap end with the Toyota cap looking pretty dinky. Also the Toyota cap is also not the prettiest of things as it's usually hidden away behind a petrol flap, so I'd need to consider that. On the plus side the Toyota pipe is equipped with one of those spring loaded flaps to prevent fuel back surge. Looking closer at the Toyota neck, in order to make it fit I'd have to cut the pipe just off the lower bend - about here: And that makes it tricky as the pipe is quite a bit narrower than the Thames one at that point. Apart from the ugly Toyota cap, the other challenge would be trying to make the narrower Toyota pipe look half decent where it passes through the body as there would be a huge gap between the skinnier pipe and the rubber body grommet. I could make up some kind of metal collar to fill the gap, but again I've put this option aside for now. On to my next train of thought. What if I teed into my return line and reinstated the looped breather pipe in my left hand rear wheel well. I've got a few doubts about this plan. First up when exactly does the return pipe feed back fuel. Quickly pulled off the pipe at the tank end, shoved it in a jam jar and fired the van up. At idle fuel started pissing into the jar almost immediately and is a constant stream. I'm guessing at full revs the stream will become less, but either way I need to factor in almost constant fuel flow. Okay so what are the chances that fuel will exit the vented loop rather than going back into the tank. Only one way to find out, so I rummaged through my stash and came up with a brass tee that looked like so: More rummaging uncovered some rubber pipe offcuts of matching diameter and a few "used but not abused" hose clamps. Chucked it all together and it ended up like so: Not pretty, but okay for a test run. Then bent up a bit of left over bundy tube and clipped it into the original bracket inside the wheel well like so: Fitted the non vented cap then fired her up. No fuel pissing out the vent pipe, so that is good I guess. I'm hoping that the returning fuel rushing through the pipe will draw in air from the looped breather tube. But that's just a guess at the moment. I'll need to take the van out on the road for further testing, so thats the plan for tomorrow. Thanks for reading.

Restored. I decided to only paint the chassis rails, as the inner guards didn’t really lose any paint during the wash-down, and there was no way I was going to make that look nice without major work. I reconditioned the brake master while I was there with the brush Like a new one, only worse.

If you are going to go through the cert process instead, have a look in the CCM page 14-43 It has the requirements for lap diagonal belt mounting to a roll bar structure

The run back from the Mercs was a good time. Had a beautiful peaceful morning with 10-12kts of breeze behind us. We were expecting the wind to pick up a lot so ran the smaller sized spinnaker and the main double reefed. Had a lot of dolphins join us, saw a whale, some penguins and some gannets. All of the animals. By Whangamata, the wind kicked up to 20kts so we dropped the spinnaker and switched to the jib top headsail. Sadly, there are no photos available of the afternoon. The wind blowing 30+kts, 2 meter swell following us, rough sea state and we just fucking sent it. Average boat speed was 10.5kts with frequent bursts up to 13. Between Bowentown heads and the mount entrance, we decided to try for a speed record. Surfing down the swell with the gusts at the right time, I think 16.2kts was the peak. By the time we got to the finish line at the mount, my arms were dead from trying to hold the course steady running dead downwind. Getting pushed a little too far to the right would risk the mainsail and boom slamming over to the other side uncontrolled, possibly damaging the rig and probably killing anyone in it's way. So a lot of concentration was involved. 8 hours 53 mins for the return trip. I think we could've knocked another half hour off that with a more aggressive sail choice at the start. A great weekend had by all with minimal damage.

Been a minute between updates but things are on the move with a substantial amount of repairs to be had. - Holy floor been fixed - Right front pillar fixed - Right sill remade - Right lower rear quarter remade - New rear floor pan in the boot 3d904725-98dc-4666-b1f2-f9bdbbd451d6 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 3c8cfab5-6107-4b6c-924c-2f7c49f25f78 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 17de332b-112d-4601-bf77-dc4c73734943 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 3b639e92-8942-49af-af03-6ea4bc055638 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 94e522a8-c18c-4c60-8a82-26e9c4a83bb1 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 1b07f222-6b08-40d8-ad2f-19270c41a93d by phillipbaines, on Flickr edfd3bf6-9c9c-4c55-acb5-80341ccee12d by phillipbaines, on Flickr f7c8545a-a1f8-4c94-9e4b-4280eaaa5569 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 116f590a-ff08-4b1c-b045-145ef69c077c by phillipbaines, on Flickr 53068741-48d8-4683-a98d-3032f0ac35a1 by phillipbaines, on Flickr e498cdeb-ed50-4c9b-b9c8-4e1a57eac2ed by phillipbaines, on Flickr 36d3bdb7-55df-4b20-a03b-0d42f8436635 by phillipbaines, on Flickr acd40d63-21a6-4d2e-aace-2b1b67df6597 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 51166180-e67e-4ed7-bc57-41eb5d1ce77b by phillipbaines, on Flickr d0ae0966-5447-422e-8630-44d082bc2258 by phillipbaines, on Flickr c1272d08-bb1d-4075-b309-dcaf3c8cbb05 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Right side done... panel man moving on to the left. Updates to come! ca3681d5-1c41-4886-b412-dfc58522c1ec by phillipbaines, on Flickr Discussion:

In this context, yes. /FFS, it's like talking to myk00l.

Thanks Tori, that's not very helpful.

3D printed a dash insert for an old Honda chaly(?) headlight bucket. Eventually this will hold a 2” gps speedo but for now I’ve made an inset for the insert to plug the hole.

Boss ordered on some some strut mounts for me so dont have to mess around with broken shit

i used crc brake cleaner to free up a sticky throttle in a customers l300 van holy heck the smells it made were terrible, and the was wierd green stuff coming out the exhaust which left a stain on the floor which has not gone away

Fucking brakecleaner for everything chap.

Yep, doing acceleration sorts it out. Luckily the Carina still works out ahead of the Echo The Starlet's now way ahead though. Would be interesting to see the difference when you've got it dialled in a bit more.

Honestly, it was worth setting this one up purely to learn this. I was pulling my hair out when the last one wouldn't print, and I couldn't confirm I wasn't the problem 😄. I'm really looking forward to setting up my brand new CWP to see how easy or hard that will be.

I kept the mill all locked up in posi and made the spigot. Well I actually made 2 failed spigots because I was being a tard before making one that was bang on size. I reamed the hole in it 12mm used a ground ejector pin offcut as a guide which I threw up in the collet of the mill then slid the spigot over and pushed down on the torque converter. Tacked her in place with the mig while on the mill, then sent it. I'm happy.

probably not much to worry about. just few more revs, then you can inspect the combustion on the top of the pistons, through the hole in the side of the block.

Long time, no update... Screwed my back and have had months and months of therapy. Its coming right now so ive got stuck into this again. New radiator - old one sprung a leak Driveshaft sorted for the W55 Carbs vapour blasted and rebuilt New MSD ignition with limiter Engine turns over, has spark, good compression. Just the fuel system to sort and a list of 1000 other little things. Hopefully skids by Monday.

https://holidayparks.co.nz/park/seaview-holiday-park/

I think I've got it worked out. Should be able to answer the question no-one was asking. Yes, the Carina should be faster than the Echo... KPR's Starlet might be a little more interesting though... Man, these are horrible graphs to look at. Enjoy!

nah dont listen to him, aero the world

My daily / work car has 19s on it, and its an absolute shit show. I think I've bent 11 or 12 wheels by now between this car and my last one. (Although I do drive 50,000+ km per year) But it would be considerably better with 17s on it and more sidewall. And not being made out of cheese I guess. Congrats on the job!

Not exactly Throttle Body (not very specific in NZ MSDS) This is the USA version MAF

Probably doesn't answer your exact question but if you run a harness rather than a seat belt then it should be covered by your authority card. Then the anchorage arrangement would just have to meet msnz rules which are pretty straightforward. Motorsporting with just a 3 point belt isn't on my to-do list.

Finally got on to this job. The torque converter that matches the gearbag had a smaller diameter spigot that was also too tall so that needed rectifying in order for it to plug into the back of the v8. I couldn't just make a sleeve and slip over the existing spigot as it would have been fuckery so I did this instead. First I had to find a chuck that held the TC securely, the one I had that had a base plate didn't cut it so after some rummaging in the shelves I found this random base of some other bit of gear which I turns out was damn near perfect, even had 3 evenly space slots close enough to the pcd of the bolts on the chuck. So I clocked that up and made some holes and bolted the whole sandwich together thus. I then set the TC up and clocked that then milled the old spigot off.

Kyle with the blue Beams 86 broke an axle at the last race meeting and it wound one of the adjusters out of the diff. Here's where the adjuster is meant to be... and where that piece of axle shouldn't be. And we unearthed some ancient messages from a previous life: Since I'm the T series diff guy now, I reassembled it for him and reset the backlash and carrier bearing preload. I kinda wanted to know if his diff would be easier to set up and get a readable swipe than mine. Well, it's definitely more readable! But also definitely worn and the pinion looks like it's been super hot. It's the opposite of mine. Super defined and hard to read because it contacts across so much of the tooth. The coast side is pretty clear too: aittle bit toe heavy, but I don't want to mess with the pinion shim since the pinion is already showing signs of wear. Very hot looking and pointed tips on the pinion. It was an interesting exercise setting up a different diff with different wear characteristics. I've had a 5.13 kit arrive for my car, so that'll get thrown in next time the car is in the workshop.

With the van due to head off to the upholsterers for a birthday anyday soon I figured I'd best complete the prep work that Shane had requested. So out came everything one more time: During my last trip to town I'd wheeled past my favorite alloy supply place and picked up a good few lengths of 32mm aluminium flat bar. I'm using a mixture of 6mm thick for the flat portions and a double layer of 3mm for the curved portions Started off by running the strips midway along each side. These even out the existing bottom panels and will also form the lower mounting point for the new window surround panels. Each strip is pop riveted to the vertical factory ribs and then in the case of the double 3mm strips they are sandwiched together using regularly spaced pop rivets. For the lower support I just used a single 3mm strip. With both sides done I moved onto the roof. Again three new aluminium fixing points running from front to back and fixed to each of the factory roof braces. Thanks for looking.

Not started yet Leaks seem to be my issue currently. Filled it with plain water and found a leak around the temp sender unit, and then the inlet manifold also developed 2 leaks. Gaskets, thread tape, and goop have sorted them. Then the sump plug also developed an oil drip. I am yet to remove that and replace the washer (suspect that's the issue) 5 litres of oil may drain out in the interim Hopefully starting this weekend

Hasnt been toooo much go on this couple weeks as havent really been around. Pedal box in though and the brakes hard lines. Also assembled the gearbox . New Tremac TKX, Green Brothers billet adaptor to their steel bellhousing. November will rip into it get it rolling and some runs on the board!

Well, I've been pretty busy with work and life... add to that the weather's been pretty average so I haven't had a lot of time to go motorbikin' of late. But managed a couple of minor hoons into the Central part of the North Island. 2020 KTM 690 Enduro R Phone (143) by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2020 KTM 690 Enduro R Phone (146) by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2020 KTM 690 Enduro R Phone (151) by Richard Opie, on Flickr I did however pick up a Nomad-ADV rally tower off marketplace in pretty good order. I needed to get a couple of new parts and some missing fasteners, so also bought the graphics kit from the manufacturer who kindly offered to assist with product support, even though I didn't buy it new. So on the lift it goes. 2020 KTM 690 Enduro R Phone (155) by Richard Opie, on Flickr You know what though? I SUCK at taking progress photos, because these days I get so immersed in the process. This wasn't a pleasant job. All of the wiring/connectors for the controls, the ABS wiring, almost EVERYTHING is smooshed up inside the factory headlight mask. So it's tedious to remove it, there's a good 18 or so connectors in there. Then you need to carefully remove the (interference fit) idiot lights from the original dash plastics... and actually cut a portion of it up to get the clutch line and brake line to the ABS unit clear, lest I disconnect them and go through the process of refitting and bleeding and no doubt opening a whole shit show of hassle. Mounting the actual unit itself wasn't too much of a headache. Routing the wiring is one thing - but at least there's a little more room inside the tower frame vs the original setup. I think it's a bonus now too, the main loom that used to run into the headlight mask and turn with the bars, now does not, as the tower is frame mounted. One less pinch/pivot point to cause a problem. Anyway this is it now, I'll get some more detailed ones when the weather isn't garbage. It has turned the bike into this luxurious thing though. It's actually quieter with a proper screen. Even the rain was less, uh, wet. I suppose it was being swept in other directions instead of on me. And the headlights. OMFG. No longer do I have to make do with Austria's finest candle. Instead I have 60w or so of LED firepower at my disposal. 2020 KTM 690 Enduro R Phone (160) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Also got my full license, woo. But am on a promise to not do anything too hectic until we come back from a holiday in January... Bex thinks my track record could potentially be a holiday ruiner.

Big upgrades power wise if anyone's interested cheers

Time for a 30k service, all looks just fine and it just does the shit i want it to when I want it to do it. Apart from the main batteries shitting themselves a few weeks ago, but a few hundy later and that is sorted. This slight lack of battery lifetime probably stems from the cert man disconnecting the battery without checking that there were actually two and the still connected one shorting itself out for a non specific amount of time, but enough to erode a bit of the battery box. I found the evidence of this a bit later in the piece, and hence I wasn't surprised the batteries went awry. Thought i would tighten up a couple of noisy tappets while I was in there anyway. I'll check the tyre pressures and jobs a goodun.

Some of you will recall that I was experimenting with a new location for my temp gauge and I came up with an option that involved a repurposed A pillar gauge pod that I had mounted like so: So after a few weeks of riding around with a mock up gauge in place I decided that further modification was required. First up the gauge closest to the driver wasn't that easy to read without twisting your neck. Secondly although the gauge pod just cleared both sunvisors the visors couldn't be tilted up fully due to a clash with the edge of the pod. Lastly the pod just looked too cumbersome. All that I really need is a single temp gauge so I decided to hack the pod in half to see how that would look. Much better: But I wasn't happy with the gaps at each end of the pod: So I made up templates for little end caps out of some old cereal box and then scratched through my shed where I found a piece of flat plastic that I figured might just work. Cut out the bits from the plastic sheet : And left little mounting tabs that I bent at 90 degrees like so: Epoxied each end cap into place and let the glue go off overnight. Then slapped a bit of 2 pack epoxy primer about the place: Next day I spritzed a few coats of my favorite satin black and it started to look half decent: Next step was to figure out how I was going to get the wiring through to the pod. Some of you will recall that I fitted this small loom for future use a while back: As most of you know I really battle to drill random holes in the old Thames and I wanted to make sure that I could reverse things if I changed my mind about the gauge pod further down the track. After giving it some thought I decided to drill a hole in the centre of my aluminium rear view mirror mounting bracket. That way I can always cover the hole by fabricating a new bracket. So this happened: Gulp ... And then I tickled a few wires with my soldering iron and ended up with this: Slapped everything back together one last time. I'm much happier with the look. It's way more subtle and the gauge angle works really well. Just a quick glance down whenever I look in the rearview mirror. And that's another small job ticked off the list. Thanks for looking.

Who cares what op wants to do with it. Best way to learn is by getting stuck in and it seems like he has parts available anyway. He's only asking for advice on other parts that might be required. Probably the wrong forum/ car club however...

what about option s ? or u ?

The Youtube channel is still catching up to real life. There's not much more to show in photos, imagine the above, but with the rest of the front drums re-assembled, and the right rear drum rebuilt with new shoes and cylinder (hint: it looks the same from the outside). Here is the latest video, enjoy: S

The interior got a bit of a make-over with new aluminium door cards. These will be trimmed to match the seats: New window winders fitted. These are the cheapest of the cheap, but with 'nice' screws fitted they work well on the TR7 window winder shaft:

Looking round for materials, I cut the side panels out of the old steel wheel tubs. used the front of the TR bonnet, and cut up a Toyota Echo bonnet to finish the panel. It's now high enough that I can add carb spacers if I need to. It will need some panelwork and a bit of filler, but overall I'm pretty happy.

Finally bunged it back in the hole. Carbs to have a birthday, extractors to be stripped/coated and driveshaft needs shortening +10,000 other small things

Engine mostly assembled - water pump, alternator, and flywheel/clutch still to sort. Headers might get an acid dip and repaint too. trial of a Kameari 2T-GEU cam chain tensioner in this 18R-GEU head also happening

So... a little yarn at @sheepers place about his motor build and also borrowing a large valve spring compressor from him inspired some work on the motor for this. It has sat a long time and nothing was done - the gear drive became a "too hard basket" and i got put off trying to get it sorted. So it has a chain put back in there for now. There were valve to piston clearance issues with cam timing and some light touching happened. Big end bearings are now replaced, cam lifter buckets replaced and valves checked for bentness found to be ok. So in a "roadkill garage" style fix(found on youtube), an old stainless valve was fashioned into a rough as guts cutter and piston cutout reshaping has been done. Result is a nice reshaping of the cutouts slightly bigger at the same time - the engine has been blinged up to go into the nice clean engine bay