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Well she got washed and dropped off to the certifier. this paint just blings off in the sun, love it I know there will be a couple of things that I only noticed when I dropped it off. Couple of grommets around the front brake lines and 3 P clips instead of the factory metal fold over tabs. and I wasn’t aware that you need receipts for braided fuel line. of course I never kept that, so I just purchased 4m of -6an ptfe that I’ll swap out just to not be a Kent. for a hardcore hotrod guy he actually thinks it’s awesome. But he did also rate the hunter. hoping the list doesn’t get too big. Did supply a flash drive of the build photos for the seat mounts, handbrake set up and anything else that was cunty to remove or covered up.

I kept the mill all locked up in posi and made the spigot. Well I actually made 2 failed spigots because I was being a tard before making one that was bang on size. I reamed the hole in it 12mm used a ground ejector pin offcut as a guide which I threw up in the collet of the mill then slid the spigot over and pushed down on the torque converter. Tacked her in place with the mig while on the mill, then sent it. I'm happy.

The run back from the Mercs was a good time. Had a beautiful peaceful morning with 10-12kts of breeze behind us. We were expecting the wind to pick up a lot so ran the smaller sized spinnaker and the main double reefed. Had a lot of dolphins join us, saw a whale, some penguins and some gannets. All of the animals. By Whangamata, the wind kicked up to 20kts so we dropped the spinnaker and switched to the jib top headsail. Sadly, there are no photos available of the afternoon. The wind blowing 30+kts, 2 meter swell following us, rough sea state and we just fucking sent it. Average boat speed was 10.5kts with frequent bursts up to 13. Between Bowentown heads and the mount entrance, we decided to try for a speed record. Surfing down the swell with the gusts at the right time, I think 16.2kts was the peak. By the time we got to the finish line at the mount, my arms were dead from trying to hold the course steady running dead downwind. Getting pushed a little too far to the right would risk the mainsail and boom slamming over to the other side uncontrolled, possibly damaging the rig and probably killing anyone in it's way. So a lot of concentration was involved. 8 hours 53 mins for the return trip. I think we could've knocked another half hour off that with a more aggressive sail choice at the start. A great weekend had by all with minimal damage.

Been a minute between updates but things are on the move with a substantial amount of repairs to be had. - Holy floor been fixed - Right front pillar fixed - Right sill remade - Right lower rear quarter remade - New rear floor pan in the boot 3d904725-98dc-4666-b1f2-f9bdbbd451d6 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 3c8cfab5-6107-4b6c-924c-2f7c49f25f78 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 17de332b-112d-4601-bf77-dc4c73734943 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 3b639e92-8942-49af-af03-6ea4bc055638 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 94e522a8-c18c-4c60-8a82-26e9c4a83bb1 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 1b07f222-6b08-40d8-ad2f-19270c41a93d by phillipbaines, on Flickr edfd3bf6-9c9c-4c55-acb5-80341ccee12d by phillipbaines, on Flickr f7c8545a-a1f8-4c94-9e4b-4280eaaa5569 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 116f590a-ff08-4b1c-b045-145ef69c077c by phillipbaines, on Flickr 53068741-48d8-4683-a98d-3032f0ac35a1 by phillipbaines, on Flickr e498cdeb-ed50-4c9b-b9c8-4e1a57eac2ed by phillipbaines, on Flickr 36d3bdb7-55df-4b20-a03b-0d42f8436635 by phillipbaines, on Flickr acd40d63-21a6-4d2e-aace-2b1b67df6597 by phillipbaines, on Flickr 51166180-e67e-4ed7-bc57-41eb5d1ce77b by phillipbaines, on Flickr d0ae0966-5447-422e-8630-44d082bc2258 by phillipbaines, on Flickr c1272d08-bb1d-4075-b309-dcaf3c8cbb05 by phillipbaines, on Flickr Right side done... panel man moving on to the left. Updates to come! ca3681d5-1c41-4886-b412-dfc58522c1ec by phillipbaines, on Flickr Discussion:

Who likes good news? Everyone? Good news everyone! Made it to the Mercs on labour weekend for the 2025 Legends regatta. 30 boats in attendance. We had a nice gentle sail up with not much wind. 10hours 45mins. Used the engine for a bit because we got bored and wanted to get there before dark. Had 2 races while there. Did ok but got bumped into the racing division 1 with the big boys. Unfortunately, I think I've proven in certain conditions, I'm as quick as the slower div 1 boats and faster than anything in div 2. Not sure what this is going to do for us standing in next winters racing series. Used the oven on the boat for the first time, the new shitter plumbing worked perfectly, the fridge/freezer worked well and even the shower worked. New battery was good, all the electronics worked mint and the anchor held beautifully and set with ease.

Finally got on to this job. The torque converter that matches the gearbag had a smaller diameter spigot that was also too tall so that needed rectifying in order for it to plug into the back of the v8. I couldn't just make a sleeve and slip over the existing spigot as it would have been fuckery so I did this instead. First I had to find a chuck that held the TC securely, the one I had that had a base plate didn't cut it so after some rummaging in the shelves I found this random base of some other bit of gear which I turns out was damn near perfect, even had 3 evenly space slots close enough to the pcd of the bolts on the chuck. So I clocked that up and made some holes and bolted the whole sandwich together thus. I then set the TC up and clocked that then milled the old spigot off.

So I removed the rear bumper and inspected a little surface rust on the RH reinforcing mounting plates which consisted of three layers, the tail panel and two plates stacked together. And of course the meat inside the sandwich had gone off . removing the first layer was easy enough but the second layer even though I made Swiss cheese of it with the spot drill it took with it as much of the tail panel as possible while fighting all the way

Restored. I decided to only paint the chassis rails, as the inner guards didn’t really lose any paint during the wash-down, and there was no way I was going to make that look nice without major work. I reconditioned the brake master while I was there with the brush Like a new one, only worse.

This car needs some sort of Pink Panther sticker on it somewhere. Personally I'd change the wheels, not necessarily to anything stock, just not wire wheels or anything black. IIRC our Jags share a GM stud pattern so there are various bogan options available second hand. I had my Jag's centre mufflers removed and replaced with pipe, to make the exhaust louder without changing the rear tips. Does it sound great? No, but it was cheap.

This is looking great Damian!!! Very impressed. Now that you have it right side up I am figuring you'll soon be starting on the cabin construction. Here's some inspiration for you.. (I feel you will do a neater job though..)

Something that has been irritating me for a while is this: Happens every time I have more that a quarter of a tank on board and its got to the point where it is starting to discolour the clear coat. So time for me to do something about it. First up a bit of background to the issue: In original factory format the van comes out with a non vented fuel cap that looks like so: Under normal circumstances the non vented cap works perfectly as the fuel tank is equipped with a little breather inlet that draws air in through a piece of hard pipe that is looped up in the right hand rear fender well. Now in my case the Toyota 3Y engine has a return line on the factory fuel pump that looks like so: Back when I did the engine swap I cunningly ran a return fuel line from the pump back to the tank and repurposed the breather inlet for the returning fuel. Then in order to let the fuel tank breathe I installed this vented cap which not only allowed in air but also enabled me to protect my precious fuel with lock and key: Clever me ..... not. Little did I realise at the time that I was busy creating a source of ongoing irritation. Anyhoo, what to do. So first step is to ditch the non vented fuel cap. Easy peasey, just go back to the original cap that was languishing in my box of spares. Thoughts of fuel theft be damned I say ! But how do I vent the tank ? Well how did Toyota do it ? Aah, I'm glad you asked. They had one of these: Vent pipe built into the filler neck. Damn clever those Japanese ! However, not so easily replicated on my van as the factory filler neck tapers down from the cap end and pushes snuggly through the rubber body grommet from the outside. So there is no way of getting a similar vent pipe through the body hole. I briefly toyed with the idea of trying to fit a gubbins like so into the Thames filler neck: But ended up putting that idea aside for now. My next thought was to see if I could make use of the Toyota fuel tank neck (I have two of these leftover from my donor vans). Quickly pulled out the Thames neck and laid it alongside one of the HiAce necks for comparison. The difference in pipe diameters is more noticeable at the cap end with the Toyota cap looking pretty dinky. Also the Toyota cap is also not the prettiest of things as it's usually hidden away behind a petrol flap, so I'd need to consider that. On the plus side the Toyota pipe is equipped with one of those spring loaded flaps to prevent fuel back surge. Looking closer at the Toyota neck, in order to make it fit I'd have to cut the pipe just off the lower bend - about here: And that makes it tricky as the pipe is quite a bit narrower than the Thames one at that point. Apart from the ugly Toyota cap, the other challenge would be trying to make the narrower Toyota pipe look half decent where it passes through the body as there would be a huge gap between the skinnier pipe and the rubber body grommet. I could make up some kind of metal collar to fill the gap, but again I've put this option aside for now. On to my next train of thought. What if I teed into my return line and reinstated the looped breather pipe in my left hand rear wheel well. I've got a few doubts about this plan. First up when exactly does the return pipe feed back fuel. Quickly pulled off the pipe at the tank end, shoved it in a jam jar and fired the van up. At idle fuel started pissing into the jar almost immediately and is a constant stream. I'm guessing at full revs the stream will become less, but either way I need to factor in almost constant fuel flow. Okay so what are the chances that fuel will exit the vented loop rather than going back into the tank. Only one way to find out, so I rummaged through my stash and came up with a brass tee that looked like so: More rummaging uncovered some rubber pipe offcuts of matching diameter and a few "used but not abused" hose clamps. Chucked it all together and it ended up like so: Not pretty, but okay for a test run. Then bent up a bit of left over bundy tube and clipped it into the original bracket inside the wheel well like so: Fitted the non vented cap then fired her up. No fuel pissing out the vent pipe, so that is good I guess. I'm hoping that the returning fuel rushing through the pipe will draw in air from the looped breather tube. But that's just a guess at the moment. I'll need to take the van out on the road for further testing, so thats the plan for tomorrow. Thanks for reading.

Kyle with the blue Beams 86 broke an axle at the last race meeting and it wound one of the adjusters out of the diff. Here's where the adjuster is meant to be... and where that piece of axle shouldn't be. And we unearthed some ancient messages from a previous life: Since I'm the T series diff guy now, I reassembled it for him and reset the backlash and carrier bearing preload. I kinda wanted to know if his diff would be easier to set up and get a readable swipe than mine. Well, it's definitely more readable! But also definitely worn and the pinion looks like it's been super hot. It's the opposite of mine. Super defined and hard to read because it contacts across so much of the tooth. The coast side is pretty clear too: aittle bit toe heavy, but I don't want to mess with the pinion shim since the pinion is already showing signs of wear. Very hot looking and pointed tips on the pinion. It was an interesting exercise setting up a different diff with different wear characteristics. I've had a 5.13 kit arrive for my car, so that'll get thrown in next time the car is in the workshop.

Its still alive and working, Maintenance so far - Random bushing for wof New spark plugs were from the 80's Got the dual fuel tank working, not well but is working TO DO Some sort of AC system Some sort of sounds New carpets, get door cards and other interior bits fixed Try to get the old fella with other pink jag to sell his mint pink seats Keep outside as is, rat rod'is look, Make the exhaust a bit louder but keep the jaguar tip/ends for looks re-chrome the bumpers (maybe)

The ignition gremlin may have been discovered.... When the dash was out I pulled all the wiring and tidied it up. As part of that..The ignition key switch had seen better days with wires soldered, cut and shut, terminal blocks, and splice connectors and the whole catalog of DIY auto sparky thrown at it. And busted locking tabs too. Cue raiding the parts stash and a tidy one acquired + fitted to the car... A few years later and here we are The replacement switch had the same colour wires, same pin-out pattern, and same length wiring BUT the actual switching inside works completely different to the original one. Parts stash has been raided again and one with the original switching pattern has been found... Fingers crossed for fire-up very soon.

Ive secured a job at mag n turbo and my boss is a good fella told me to bring my car in to do suspension stuff, seems i have to do a skid out the back too

My apologies, thought this was the 2027 coropeak hillclimb thread

Smokes! This is like a week away now! current forecast has me finishing my bike build on the morning of the ride 😂

Did manage to hit a submerged waratah and explode the dinghy Nice to know that the dinghy will remain afloat with 3 people in it and 1 of it's 3 chambers completely deflated. The tear has been patched by a local dinghy repair guy after we got home. Also managed to rip the chartplotter off it's mount and smash the bracket to bits again. Glue can't fix it this time so I'll make a new simple bracket out of some aluminum flat bar.

i just realised i see this car semi often, not surprisingly its quite recognisable is the paint a factory colour?

I took it out for an all British rally over the weekend. Looked abit average next to the other well kept vehicles there, tho caused a stir with the non British valve cover

I think I've got it worked out. Should be able to answer the question no-one was asking. Yes, the Carina should be faster than the Echo... KPR's Starlet might be a little more interesting though... Man, these are horrible graphs to look at. Enjoy!

Honestly, it was worth setting this one up purely to learn this. I was pulling my hair out when the last one wouldn't print, and I couldn't confirm I wasn't the problem 😄. I'm really looking forward to setting up my brand new CWP to see how easy or hard that will be.

Thats fucking awesome

This is the best way to learn - apply knowledge to a different setup and compare results. Must be validating to know you aren't crazy, and sometimes its a lot easier.

Which week before are you leaving to get there in time?

Surely the top poster in this topic is keen? @Dudley

23 sleeps

Anyone else keen to drive down? Not sure about accomodation just yet, likely we'll camp in the truck.

You heard it here first, @kpr loves a power fc

Some quality work going into this!

So I took part in a Datsun club event on labour weekend, was a great turnout, the drive over the mountain to and from akaroa was a bit hard on the three speed going up and down as I was avoiding overheating the brakes. But it made it happily without causing too much traffic. I might need to take the gearbox out and give it a once over and also a new clutch and output seal

also do the yanks measure horsepower differently to us or something? guys on the rx7 forums are like "yeah I want something streetable, not too crazy. probably in the 650hp range" motherfucker have you tried driving a rwd car with 650 horsepower? there was a norwegian guy who made a jibe about importing a US car and "two hundred horses fell off the boat on the way over"

maybe fit a smaller turbo along with the big turbo, to help it spool up?

And finished the fabrication on the sidestand

Cut and polishnearly all done but need to give whole car a clean again and some finishing but there goes some decals ...2 days of sanding etc etc lots of clearcoat equals no burn through to base anywhere, except where i was a bit careless with buffer and cooked the paint but thats fixable... live and learn or something

Looks like some Gisborne fellas are making the trip again Just trying to get ourselves organized Which is surprisingly difficult 😂 Put a new muffler on my postie this year hopefully it's a bit less obnoxious

I knocked the bastard off! ..went to the garage to do some other thing but couldn’t walk past it. i found that hammering on the flex plate adapter would spin it ever so slightly so kept at that until I could reach a few more big end nuts/the loose ones cleared the bottom of the bore and 3 more pistons exited. Was pretty shit, reaching down the bore and swapping between 15mm and 9/16 sockets to spin the nut, as they were indexed differently so when one was maxed out the other had a turn in it. lucky last had me doing the same trick but with spanners as I could only just get onto the hex but wasn’t clearance for ratchet head.. Pulled the crank out and popped out second last piston now it wasn’t hung up, and began beating on the fucked piston from the under side. It started breaking up (alloy piston) so I just let it be, its now stripped to bite-sized pieces so I can move it to shed and to machinist. I’ll probably tap it up and down a bit and loosen it more so he doesn’t have to, but not today!

I've been hitting the rev limiter at the end of the straight in 6th (209km/hr), into the hairpin in 5th and in 4th into the 1st Esses. One of the changes while the rear axle is being straightened is to change the diff ratio (current 4.55) to improve this situation. I just happened to have a 4.1 spare so have installed that as a "no cost" fix. Then an opportunity came up to buy a rebuilt gearbox with the same AP1 gearset but AP2 reduction gear (plus carbon syncros) since my gearbox has to be pulled apart anyway to replace the housing it seem like a good opportunity to switch and put my current gearbox back to original spec and sell it. It's almost too nice to cut the housing up on the new one, but has to be done. Here's the diff ratios vs gears vs tyre diameter Finally got the old box out to sort it out, the white paint here is the crack around the housing. Wasn't far away from having the whole thing fall off.

Chain roller and a battery box.

Sooooo I guess I'll put it back together? Can't find where the oil water tango happened. It was probably in the turbos somehow (remember how I said the water in the turbos boiled every time I shut the car off, we'll it was probably something to do with that) but i can't test them properly to know for sure. Either way the old turbos aren't going back on. A Garrett G30-770 is though. I got it the other day. Fucking disappointing to see the state of the exhaust housing. Fucks sake garrett, on what fucking planet is this ok? I have the exact same turbo on my blue car and it did not look like this when i got it, it was also 1500$ cheaper for the exact same thing about 5 years ago too so cheers garrett you bunch of cunts. Anywho i had to polish all the fucking gouges out of the housing to make it look not shit.

I'm inching closer to getting things sorted. I spent a few nights working on unrelated wiring to get the lights and so on working. Just indicators and windscreen wipers left to sort then I can tidy it all up and tuck it away. I've been doing some more car-on-jackstands based fuckery to try and dial in the fuel map. It's surprising how well you can get the ramp rate when you put it in 4th or 5th and just jam the brakes on. But just have to keep them spinning for a while after to let the poor discs cool down haha. TL;DR: noises: But anyway, after a few more runs, much to everyone elses annoyance probably. I've got some good values in the fuel table now, and it's mostly tracking on target apart from some bank to bank imbalance. Its looking fairly promising for next dyno visit! Here are the old VE values from the old intake, new values, and the percentage difference. Keep in mind that with NA motor improvements, you're usually scrambling for 1% or 2% at a time and looking for accumulative gains. So this is pretty amazing / shows how crap my old setup was. Now I appreciate that it's a stretch to expect horsepower to directly correlate with AFR changes. But, if wheel horsepower did improve by the same % as extra airflow now, here's where we would be looking: I believe part of this is thanks to my new runner length giving the good bump right on the 7500-8000rpm region now. If I try some slightly shorter runners, I might be able to bump it over to the right a bit which would be cool! If it gets to over 250whp I will be pretty happy. Here's a diagram of what my original runner length was, the two long lengths that we tried on the dyno (which were either too short or too long) and my best guess for current intake length. Another thing to keep in mind is that the motor might like having some more cam advance now, for higher up in the rpm range. So it might not be done yet! Exciting if any of this pans out to be true, but, we all know that dyno day can be a heart breaker. Haha Something else that I screwed around with, was adding or subtracting 5 degrees of VVT advance from 1 bank only. It didnt seem very sensitive to this, not enough to make up for the AFR imbalance. So I'll need to do some more checks and figure out if there's any other reason why this might be happening. The bank that is running richer is the drivers side, which is funny because its the one with the better looking exhaust manifold on it. Its not toooooo far off I guess ,but I'd rather try find a mechanical reason for the imbalance than just accept it and run a fuel correction on one side. As there's possibly a few more farts to squeeze out of it yet.

Well, I've been pretty busy with work and life... add to that the weather's been pretty average so I haven't had a lot of time to go motorbikin' of late. But managed a couple of minor hoons into the Central part of the North Island. 2020 KTM 690 Enduro R Phone (143) by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2020 KTM 690 Enduro R Phone (146) by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2020 KTM 690 Enduro R Phone (151) by Richard Opie, on Flickr I did however pick up a Nomad-ADV rally tower off marketplace in pretty good order. I needed to get a couple of new parts and some missing fasteners, so also bought the graphics kit from the manufacturer who kindly offered to assist with product support, even though I didn't buy it new. So on the lift it goes. 2020 KTM 690 Enduro R Phone (155) by Richard Opie, on Flickr You know what though? I SUCK at taking progress photos, because these days I get so immersed in the process. This wasn't a pleasant job. All of the wiring/connectors for the controls, the ABS wiring, almost EVERYTHING is smooshed up inside the factory headlight mask. So it's tedious to remove it, there's a good 18 or so connectors in there. Then you need to carefully remove the (interference fit) idiot lights from the original dash plastics... and actually cut a portion of it up to get the clutch line and brake line to the ABS unit clear, lest I disconnect them and go through the process of refitting and bleeding and no doubt opening a whole shit show of hassle. Mounting the actual unit itself wasn't too much of a headache. Routing the wiring is one thing - but at least there's a little more room inside the tower frame vs the original setup. I think it's a bonus now too, the main loom that used to run into the headlight mask and turn with the bars, now does not, as the tower is frame mounted. One less pinch/pivot point to cause a problem. Anyway this is it now, I'll get some more detailed ones when the weather isn't garbage. It has turned the bike into this luxurious thing though. It's actually quieter with a proper screen. Even the rain was less, uh, wet. I suppose it was being swept in other directions instead of on me. And the headlights. OMFG. No longer do I have to make do with Austria's finest candle. Instead I have 60w or so of LED firepower at my disposal. 2020 KTM 690 Enduro R Phone (160) by Richard Opie, on Flickr Also got my full license, woo. But am on a promise to not do anything too hectic until we come back from a holiday in January... Bex thinks my track record could potentially be a holiday ruiner.

Some of you will recall that I was experimenting with a new location for my temp gauge and I came up with an option that involved a repurposed A pillar gauge pod that I had mounted like so: So after a few weeks of riding around with a mock up gauge in place I decided that further modification was required. First up the gauge closest to the driver wasn't that easy to read without twisting your neck. Secondly although the gauge pod just cleared both sunvisors the visors couldn't be tilted up fully due to a clash with the edge of the pod. Lastly the pod just looked too cumbersome. All that I really need is a single temp gauge so I decided to hack the pod in half to see how that would look. Much better: But I wasn't happy with the gaps at each end of the pod: So I made up templates for little end caps out of some old cereal box and then scratched through my shed where I found a piece of flat plastic that I figured might just work. Cut out the bits from the plastic sheet : And left little mounting tabs that I bent at 90 degrees like so: Epoxied each end cap into place and let the glue go off overnight. Then slapped a bit of 2 pack epoxy primer about the place: Next day I spritzed a few coats of my favorite satin black and it started to look half decent: Next step was to figure out how I was going to get the wiring through to the pod. Some of you will recall that I fitted this small loom for future use a while back: As most of you know I really battle to drill random holes in the old Thames and I wanted to make sure that I could reverse things if I changed my mind about the gauge pod further down the track. After giving it some thought I decided to drill a hole in the centre of my aluminium rear view mirror mounting bracket. That way I can always cover the hole by fabricating a new bracket. So this happened: Gulp ... And then I tickled a few wires with my soldering iron and ended up with this: Slapped everything back together one last time. I'm much happier with the look. It's way more subtle and the gauge angle works really well. Just a quick glance down whenever I look in the rearview mirror. And that's another small job ticked off the list. Thanks for looking.

Replaced all of the hoses while I was at it. Probably not necessary but it meant I could have as few hose joins as possible. The vented anti-syphon loop inside the head compartment was starting to crack and was leaking salt out the cracks. If that bit is starting to go, might as well renew the lot. That white PVC sanitation hose is a right cunt to work with. Comes on a roll and refuses to lay flat until you smoke it with the heat gun. Then only one shot to heat the hose and push it over the barbs on each connection. It does NOT come back off. And every connection you undo doesn't leak coolant or oil or ATF on you...its far less palatable. Hopefully I won't be needing to do that again for a long time. Next weekend's job is clean everything up and get the boat ready for labour weekend at the Mercs Oh yeah, we had a race on Saturday to Bowentown and back. Won the division which was nice 😀

Stoked with the progress and how it’s looking lately. The guys working on it are doing a beautiful job, far better than I achieved with rendition one of this car. Lucas alternator has been changed for a more compact Toyota unit to clear the new exhaust manifold. Engine back in, brake lines and handbrake sorted, all guards on. Next steps are to get the wiring in and get it running to test everything, then disassembly. All going well next update will be the test run before disassembly. Thinking Honda championship white and repainting the enkei wheel centers gold… 14 years and counting, hope to have it ready for our wedding next year.

A while ago I updated the plastics on the 350, and had some graphics designed and applied by @Chunky_t via some ideas and inspiration from early 1980s KTM enduro bikes. I also fitted some flush mount sort of LED rear blinkers, as the original ones were prone to being ruined via crashes and were so cooked you could barely see them when on. I just need to sort out a reflector and bodge a number plate light so I can get this WOF'd and go get my full license. This is the result. 2019 KTM 350 EXC-F-43 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2019 KTM 350 EXC-F-50 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2019 KTM 350 EXC-F-57 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2019 KTM 350 EXC-F-74 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2019 KTM 350 EXC-F-114 by Richard Opie, on Flickr 2019 KTM 350 EXC-F-144 by Richard Opie, on Flickr The #775 is tribute to my very much missed late uncle Tony, who passed away 11 years ago from MND. This was his race number on bikes. 2019 KTM 350 EXC-F-63 by Richard Opie, on Flickr

So it would seem the Gisborne crews complete lack of organization has finally bit us in the arse 😂 No accommodation in awakino on the 14th or in piopio on the 15th Unless some lovely person has booked a big house with spare rooms I can chip in on I think I'll sit this one out, Hope you guys have a choice ride! Looking forward to all the updates 😊