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Finally got around to setting it up today, fuck I am absolutely blown away with it! I've always kinda sucked at MIG, so kinda tried to avoid it even though I want to get better at it lol Played with the program auto setting menus then just point and shoot without even a test bead

The BMW throttles, I'm definitely not going to be able to get them bored out enough to be worth the trouble. Even if I do, they wont fit on my manifold anymore. So either way I'm remaking stuff. So probably end up hanging on the wall of shame and/or onselling just the throttles etc. Anyone want some? Good for a smaller CC motor with a more normal port shape. Anyway, I'm back to the same old same old. Trying to solve throttle situation. Looking on ebay, aliexpress, where ever else. Seeing if there are any good solutions for a decent throttle size I've not thought of yet. Doesnt look like it, just circling the drain again... Until! Holy shit! How absolutely perfect is this. It turns out that OBX has apparently shut up shop. So they've got a bunch of stuff on ebay for half price. Their full 350Z kit is fairly garbage because the cast lower manifold part doesnt fit properly, and so on. But they obviously have a whole bunch of the throttles on their own to sell. Sweet! 51mm throttle set! For fairly decent price for brand new stuff. (about $700 landed) I'm perilously broke in terms of car budget right now, but this seemed too good to miss. So I've borrowed some $$$ to make sure I didnt miss out on getting a set. As I've not found or seen anything else that was going to work very well. I've started modelling up a new pair of manifolds which will fit these, and cross them over running flat. This is so far working out really well. -The angle of the runner into the port can now be absolutely excellent, with no horrible transitions or shape changes. -Bonnet height is not going to be an issue at all anymore, not even close. -I can have as much room as I could dream for, for runner length, outer injectors, dual stage runners, or whatever other obnoxiously unnecessary crap I can come up with. Awesome! -I've wanted to look at the idea of fitting small, well atomizing injectors in pairs per cylinder. Having one spray down each separated port. So now I can easily fit a fuel rail in the right place to do that. I was running to 79% duty cycle with the 302cc BMW injectors. So fitting a pair of injectors from a prius or similar which are around 220cc. But have zillions of tiny holes (16 I think) means atomization should be incredibly better. Which will likely be a helpful attribute when the injectors are still a fair distance from the valves. Instead of 4 injector holes per cylinder, it will have 32. Bloody good. Haha. This solves an incredible number of my problems all at once. Still a few things to sort out. But should be good! Will be exciting to see the difference on the dyno from last time. Will get a variety of trumpet lengths printed before the next trip up. Wont be any time too soon though. New manifolds and fuel rails (again...) is a fair bit of pocket money. But this feels like its heading in the right direction.

Yeah I had a look at those, was just a pain that they're in pairs like that. Was super stoked when I saw the 350Z setup pop up. Absolutely ideal.

Yeah, nah, it'll be easier in code: Trust me bro! So, a variation on https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/58205-discuss-here-about-yoeddynzs-little-imp-project/page/60/#findComment-2725790 #define pulse_ip 7 // input int ontime, offtime; float freq, period; void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); pinMode(pulse_ip, INPUT); } void loop() { ontime = pulseIn(pulse_ip, HIGH); offtime = pulseIn(pulse_ip, LOW); period = ontime + offtime; freq = 1000000.0 / period; Serial.println(freq); delay(500); // ms }

At this point it should be glaringly obvious that i know just enough about computers to not get electricuted, and that is about it.

As previously mentioned i have an aversion of cloudbased/browser based programs. Which tends to hobble my progress in multiple areas at times, truth being told. I had fusion running on linux, then was having issues with the pc not booting, removed linux and reinstalled windows, then found reason for inconsistent booting was far easier than any of that.... i had plugged in an optic drive just before i started having problems. My psu was 520w, i didn't look at the gpu rating, turned out to be 550w minimum, and hooking up the damned cd drive was too much power loss! Unplugged drive and back to normal, never bothered going back to linux though. Also ordered a nice snazzy 850w psu from pb tech. Which was on backorder because i didn't read it right. Should turn up next month lol. Sharn over. Sound like fun students you have tbh.

AG 2.50 After a very pleasant drive down to Whakatane today I arrived home with this haul: (Almost) 1 and a half AG's. The parts these beauties will donate will give me the following: Working speedometer, good mudguards front and rear, better front wheel & less worn tyre, better forks, cables and clips, and ironically a better tank with only one tiny dent in it. I'll put all of the parts replaced back on the almost complete bike and sell it on for parts as there's still going to be some good items that I'm sure someone else will be able to make use of.

So this happened - the 6 cylinder and auto is out. The engine bay needs a scrub and then I will give it a coat of yellow ochre as it is now. last pic - v8 factory mounts to the right vs the 6 cylinder mounts on the left.

Shes abit ruff but it's a good project gota a new skyteam 50cc of a mate Motor in atm don't run I don't think gota new seat

More than me then

Bit like me mate. I have never needed to know how or why it works. I just use it.

It is a 'rolling project' gaming setup, did some stuff for a mate and he built with his spares as payment, my plan is to slowly upgrade it as i go, being able to learn cad on a fullscreen instead of the laptop is just a bonus. Price was right for the psu, still is in fact. https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/PSUMSI1020/MSI-MAG-850W-Power-Supply-80-Plus-Gold---ATX-31-PC Stats to follow...

What hardware are you trying to run? 850W will run a relatively high end gaming rig. 550W minimum is also just a guide. Unless you actually need that much power, i'd knock it down to a 650w or something. Post some hardware specs if you want, all good if you can't be bothered though. Just trying to save you some bucks.

For me, I'm often working with components that are unfamiliar to me, most recently was a number (4) of Decawave DW1000 controlled by an ESP32, solo and with just the data sheets/the internet I reckon it would have taken me a week to get something functional. With ChatGPT holding my hand I got my robot following me in a few hours... Note, I have zero electronics training, I'm sure @h4nd would beat AI.

I don't actually believe this, but do please note the time taken to get to an actual working result, and you can have coffee and lamingtons because I'd be interested to be proven wrong

The code side is something ChatGPT does well if you don't have a trained @h4nd by your side. It's not great at optimising, but it will get you functional pretty quick.

If you can get clean 0-5V into them, shouldn't be too hard. YoEddy muttered about Speedo re-scaling, was that in his Imp thread? I may have dropped some freq reading code there you could adapt.

T bars, club style. Nothing says gang like a honda dax monkey bike.

Was givin this skyteam 50cc awhile back from a mate which did about 100k in his monkey before swaping it for a 125 so she's new. New loom cdi coil ignition new front tyer just need to sort a chain carb ive gotn is to big but ive sorted a new carb so hopefully she will be riding soon. Was wanting to paint ect but more I look at it more I like it asis I'll definitely change head light and make alil nicer

The E throttles are awesome! If I'm ever feeling a bit too smart I love to come and read your updates to put me back in my place.

The day finally came, it was the BRZs turn on the track. I've been holding out for this trackday, since it was the first one in the BRZ and I wanted to keep it as stock as possible (except for driveline bushes and things to freshen it up), to experience the car "as it should be" from the factory. This was meant to be in June, to give me ample time before the WOF expires, but thanks to some bad weather it got called off and shifted to July instead, giving me literally a couple of days before the WOF expires. We drove up to Feilding the day before, and the next morning we emerged into a very chilly subzero morning, warmed the car up, melted the ice off the screen and cruised around to the track to get the usual pit. The blue car squad was completed by my friends in their mostly stock ZC33S Swift Sport (which is still faster than me in the BRZ). A stunning, albeit cold, morning After the driver briefing, we did a few laps of the track to warm the cars up and familiarise ourselves with the conditions and layout, and then we were unleashed in groups of either "slow" or "fast". I feel there should've been a "mid" range group, as there were some fast cars/drivers hanging out in the slow class, causing some grief. The first session was BUSY It was hard to string a good lap together with all the traffic, but the car was showing some promise. It gripped well, and hung on in the corners, but it did quickly show up one issue; the brakes sucked. Coming down the front straight on the third lap of the first session, I get hard on the brakes for turn one and suddenly the pedal feels... weird. It's not soft, it doesn't go to the floor, but it feels wooden, like I'm pressing on a block of wood instead of a brake pedal. I've cooked the pads. Damn. I was pulling decent laps already though, my second lap, before the brakes turns bad, was a 1:36.55, already faster than the fastest I went in the Alto at 1:36.91 The next laps were slower, as I wasn't sure at this point what was going on, so I was feeling out the brakes to see if they were still going to work or not. I found there was almost no pedal feel, and it was taking a lot more pressure on the pedal to actually slow the car, and it was a fine line from having that stopping force, to kicking in ABS. You can see from this video the first couple of corners I really have to jump on the pedal to cut the speed. Coming into the pits after the session and it was immediately obvious what had happened, from all the smoke pouring off the front brakes The smell of fried brakes was the smell of the day, for sure. Every session was followed by plumes of smoke like that, from both sides. I was pretty disheartened from that. The brakes were rubbish, and the car felt underpowered. It turned and handled pretty well, considering it's still on stock suspension, but it was leaving me feeling a bit cold compared to how much fun the Alto was. Not to be deterred, I pushed on and went out for another session. After the first flying lap, I decided the brakes weren't going to completely fail, and I just had to work with what I had. So on the second lap, I did this The fastest lap of the day, a 1:32.21. Even though it was the fastest I went all day, I was very consistent in my times, hovering around the 1:32 mark most of the day. BRZ Comparing that to the fastest I went in the Alto, even though the BRZ never really felt "fast", it smashed the Altos corner speeds in most corners, plus some added speed on the straights. You can really see in the BRZ how early I was braking though by the red shading before the corner. Alto 1:36.91 Unfortunately later in the day I decided to go out without the camera running, and did something a bit silly I had been getting a bit cocky with the car, pushing it more and more and getting some little slides out of it here and there. I had been running it in "sport" mode, which reduces the interference from the traction and stability control systems, but for this session I wanted to see if I could reduce it a little more. What I didnt realise, was that in trying to turn off traction control, but leave stability on, I had actually turned the whole lot off. I was on my own. I went into the hairpin fine, carrying a bit of speed, got on the throttle to exit and suddenly in a cloud of tyre smoke I was A: looking at the front of the car that was behind me, through my windscreen, and B: being flung from one side of the track, to the other. Thankfully the car avoided me, and other than my rear wheels just going on the grass, I wasn't stuck and didn't hit anything. It was an impressive 360 though. The car fired back into life after a bit of cranking (I forgot to clutch in) and I sheepishly cruised back to the pits, no harm, no foul. After that excitement I sat out the next session, but the last one for the day I went out and ended up having some fun with an old Holden Commodore race car. I could get right up his backside in the corners, but just didnt have the straight line grunt to catch him. In the end, I backed off a bit for a lap to give myself some clean space later on, as he was actually holding me up and killing my lap times. It was a good battle though, even if he had no idea I was there. It's quite apparent to me in the videos that the traction and stability control are really fighting me on exit speeds. You can see I go 100% throttle but the speed doesnt increase until I straighten the car (and sometimes you can just catch the little yellow lights flashing their heads off). I have a future mod that will hopefully fix this, without me having to turn the whole lot off and end up going backwards again. Because this trackday was run by a different group, there was a pro photographer there, so enjoy some nice looking speedy shots Blue car squad Over all, other than user error, the car behaved well. The oil temps were getting a tad high later in the day after some of the harder sessions, but generally stayed below 120c and cooled off quick when I backed off. Oil pressure was good even with the higher temps, generally holding the recommended 10psi/1000rpm. I would love to get rid of the mid-range torque dip, as that really dulls the feel of the engine. It reminds me a lot of the old twin turbo Legacy and the Valley Of Death between the turbos, where if you shift into a specific RPM range, there is just nothing there, and it falls flat on its face. To fix that though means spending more money, and to be honest in not sure how much of a Kelvinator car this is. I love how it looks, but it's not as fun to drive as I wanted. It's a damn nice car to drive, though. Next track day will tell. Before the next track day, which is late next month, I have a bunch of things to go into the car to hopefully sharpen up the handling, and some new Endless front pads to get rid of the shite Dixcel ones.

This will be a last post for a while since I’m 1000km away from the car with no future plans to pick up, tho part shopping is on the cards, any suggestions for improvements and best priced suppliers. also on Saturday I replaced the window seal on drivers side, after 50years it has become a little brittle

After the initial skim of filler I decided to strip all of the paint from the tank as sanding the filler revealed more irregularities: I used these strip-it discs which are great on paint and rust, and leave a nicely keyed finish for paint etc. Incidentally, if any OS'ers want any of these discs I thought I was buying 20 but ended up with 200! I don't think I'll ever get through that many so happy to pass them on for $2 each.

View of it roughly done. The pipe will be cleaned up a little but more, painted in high temp paint and wrapped in header wrap. But overall its achieved the understated look I was after.

Nissan did it well:

Oh and the clutch pedal and new brake pedal are in

Last of the top decking put on this morning. Lucky I did wait as I forgot I had to cut the hole with the correct angle for the mizzen mast in the hardwood doubler I put in a while ago. Phiew. Starting to look even more boaty now.

The clutch lever snapped in the fall, so I replaced both levers with these: I've got the same ones on the Blackbird. They are fully adjustable for length and reach, spring loaded, and if my talent should desert me again they flip up if they're hit: Nice!

My solution was to weld washers to the depressions and pull the dent out: And after about ten washers and a combination of pulling, hammering and pressurising the tank again it came out almost acceptable. It will still need a skim of filler to smooth out the ripples but I'm happy enough. The bike isn't going to be a show bike, but I do like my vehicles 'nice'.

From previous experiance the ol corollas take off harder then jesses only toes page

Stand/peg setup all done. Starting to really take shape...

Made this peg setup and side stand. A lot of work, but its something I wanted to do. I'm pretty tall, so it was an opportunity to gain 50mm of leg room each way by lowering the pegs about 50mm, and setting them forward by about 50mm too. I also used the passenger pegs off my bmw, as these look very similar to OEM dax pegs only slightly bigger. The mounting bracket is solid 16mm round bar, which I bent in a manual bender. The kickstand is tubing which i hammered on an anvil to give it that flat shape. Bit of matte black paint and it'll look mint!

Here's a before photo for reference I was keen to cover up the FURY but also make it look more like the original motor which had domed, removable side covers. I'm calling it a win. There's still lots more to do, but pretty happy with how it's fallen into place so far. Things like mounting the oil cooler to mimic the American CT70 dax engine protector frame. The lines of the bike still make sense at first glance, nothing looks terribly out of place and that's the stuff that matters to my OCD.

Looks so much better, than it did. Fuck yeah!

So happy with how these turned out. Loving the hammer formed marks, makes it look older than it is.