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So at this stage I'm busy trying to round up all the parts I need to come over with the car. The key things being the windscreen and a front seat. The seller reckoned he knew where a good front seat was, and tried to arrange to buy it, but just couldn't get hold of the guy before the car left I managed to find a front seat frame in Southern California, but they're not sure that they can get it sent to where it needs to go in San Fran. Fingers crossed I manage to pull something together... The windscreen is very hard to find for a wagon, but I found a place in Arizona that does classic car glass and has one in stock. They are getting it crated up, but their crating/freight place is busy, and they have a 3-week wait! They're gonna try and hurry it along. Hopefully that doesn't miss the boat either, or things will start to get expensive! I also came across a good Trademe score and got some 15" wheels and near new tires for cheaps.

it can get murky. in an ideal world= the car is certed for a, b and c mods the cert is done properly the first time now has d and e mods added a certifier only has to assess the new mods, the others are covered by the previous cert. you get a new cert and carry on with life however, especially with the new photo based system, this is often not that easy, and a large can of worms can be opened, often a recert can turn into a fucking nightmare due to previous certs being done poorly, things being missed the first time, the old plates not being big enough to fit everything on, the expectation of what should be certified on a car changing over time, people adding or changing stuff that fits within the limited description that fits on a old style tag and even just trying to figure out what was acceptable at the time when it was first certed. this all takes time, emailing back and forth with lvvta etc it always takes me longer to do than just starting a new cert on a freshly modified car for example, the welded caliper brackets on @dabuzz car, if i was re doing the cert, normally that would be a no go, cant do that, but it already has a cert for disc brakes on the rear,so i can just write down "previously certified" however i dont know if the previous certifier went to lvvta to get an exemption because it was already done or did he not notice at all or did he notice and choose to ignore it or has someone changed it since it was certed so ive got to take a photo of that mod for the new cert, and say yep thats good, its on the cert with my name on it, so everyone that looks up that cert from here on, sees that i did the cert so to cover my arse, id have to go to lvvta and explain the situation, and get the OK from them, this might take a while because they would likely recall the paperwork and see what it says it might say that there was a NDT for the weld and it was welded with a low carbon rod to a cast steel bearing housing and there was a exemption given at the time, in which case it is ok or it might just have a tick in a box next to 'car has brakes' in my opinion if you are changing the calipers or are unhappy with it, just cut all that shit off and make a bracket that bolts on to the ends with the calipers you want

yea so HKS made an engine, or maybe dress up parts for an engine and they called it the 5M-GX. they were doing similar parts for the 4age (which was called a 5A-GX) at the time and the 4age stuff was fairly popular. the 5m stuff, not so much. they made a turbo kit for a 5M which there is a tiny bit more info about, but there is nothing i could find on the interwebs about the 5M-GX except a couple of photos. i have no idea what they did as far as engine improvements or anything, i just found a picture on the internet and decided to copy it. cool story bro. what's left is make some sort of ITB setup for this thing and a set of extractors. the extractors will be fairly easy but the ITBs could turn in to a bit of a nightmare. there is very little room around number 6 and the firewall has a hump in it that means i cant come out of number 6 in a straight line. time will tell.

Soon after that, I happened to be browsing one afternoon and saw a new listing with the "Listed just now" written under it. "Running when parked" etc. I didn't think it would be the car for us, but messaged the seller out of curiosity. He was super helpful, quick to respond, and happy to send as many photos as I wanted. The seller himself, was a huge selling point for this car. So more photos and details came in. Its a 1967 Country Sedan, 390FE and C6. Power steering. Power drum brakes. Complete and original except for the front bench seat. Now I'm a terrible optimist, so in my minds eye, I can see this with an original front seat, new carpet, and a steam clean, as being not too bad of a car. There's a rust hole in the left rear guard, but the seller says its the only one. Yeah sure, heard that before... More photos please: Hmmmm OK thats actually straight as an arrow... And how's that patina! The price was right on this car too. So we ordered another Lemon Squad inspection, and it came back with everything pretty much as expected except that the windscreen was broken. A crack on the passenger side that the seller hadn't even noticed before. Just the one rust hole in the rear quarter. I poured over the photos, put together a spreadsheet of everything I thought it would need, and quickly priced up all the parts. It adds up to be pretty much the same price as the "ready to drive" cars I've looked at, plus my time (probably lots of it...) but this seems like an honest survivor car, so once I've got it on the road, I'll know what I've got. And best of all, the seller was a GC. If he ever reads all of this, I hope he knows how grateful I am. Money changed hands, and I got sent this yesterday. Over 6 months after looking at the first car. So as far as ticking the original boxes: Small block v8, ideally manual, 10 seat option, power steering, power disc brakes. Hmmm close enough. Auto is fine, and I'll likely sub out the 390 for a 302W in the future. Supposedly its only got 6 seats, but the VIN tag decodes to a 10 seater, and the panels for the fold up seats are there in the photos, so hopefully its not a major to make/fit some. Hmm yeah that. Well, I figure usually when importing an old car, it needs brakes, shocks, ball joints etc. So just add carpet, seat, headliner and wheels to that list and its sorted. If I'm lucky, it will be less work to get on the road than the rust repairs on that really nice 66 that ghosted us.

"I had to grab his trousers and forcibly lift his leg up, and he immediately got a totally inappropriate erection" Oh yes. Such mirth. You didn't know which gearstick to grab after that. Oh how we chortled when I suggested you scribble the numbers 1 to 5 on my knob with a vivid marker.

Its a 1966 Country Sedan. 289W and 3 on the tree manual. Power steering. Power disc brakes. Only 6 seater, but at this stage beggars can't be choosers, I'll retrofit the fold up seats. Its got nice 16" Torque thrusts (one of my fav wheels), a really tidy original parchment (cream) interior, and we love the colour. Its in a small town in Oklahoma. Its quite a bit more than we were planning to spend, but its on par with the mustang condition wise, so that seems like a good move. Being in Oklahoma, its too far away from the man in California, so Danny ordered a 3rd party inspection from a crowd called "The Lemon Squad". They sent someone out to inspect it, who sent us back about 100 photos and a report on the condition. They were pretty thorough, A+ would recommend. Now lots of the cars we had seen, even the nicer ones, all had one thing in common. Rust in the bottoms of the doors and the tailgate. That was really the only fault with this car, and we had resigned to the fact that this was just how things are. So all good, lets take a brave pill and pull the trigger on this one. Its pretty much bloody perfect for us. FINALLY!! Stoked!

New genuine coil plugs (same as cam sensor plugs on other vehicles) and some trim clips to stop the trim falling off every time I open the doors. The barry in me was hoping for Mercedes branded bags similar to the Honda stuff @Raizer found me a nos boot tie down anchor kit on up garage for mega cheap. (freight was killer though) Had a nice box waiting for me on the doorstep yesterday

This is now less than 10 weeks away!

Chase cam from the City in run 3. Skip to 1.05 to see a hairy moment passing a Mini.

So after a day of research, and advice from the OS GCs (thanks all) I've gone and bought an other head, it's 'Open' but all measurements check out and I'll be able to transfer my LSD unit into it. This will give me 5.1 tractor gears, time will tell if it's overkill or not, but at least now I'll have some more options. I'll shim the LSD a bit before reinstalling too, for a bit more fun. That just leaves the caliper bracket to consider, if it'll pass cert as is, then I'll leave it alone, it's been there for 20 years after all, and still solid.

That thing sounds fucking terrible.

I see no denial in that. Understandable given both the excitement of the car and it's other occupant. Also Elliot and I were looking at the green meany when we were fixing his brake lights, I kicked the nose panel and I shit you not, lumps of soggy MDF fell out. Elliot then looked at the rear panel construction, this was bondo over ply which quite frankly was a step up in quality from the front.

Club sprints are like that eh... People forget to look backwards, no matter how much you talk to people and they agree to move out of the way. It was fun though! Even though the traffic killed a couple of runs for ultimate times. Cheers man, it's a nice feeling to be back out there. Looking forward to more events over summer.

I need to pull finger and sort my life out

Here is a photo from the other day. It is amazing how the wheel arch trims change the look of the car. I had been playing around with the EFI, it was still pretty much at the default settings. The Edelbrock user interface is really easy to use. I leaned up the cruise AFR and gave the engine some more advance, especially the vacuum advance. Driving on the motorway I had my sone in the passenger seat watching the real time display. (this is sitting in the garage with the engine off) It took about 5 kms driving to learn the new AFR which the target had gone from something like 13.8 to 14.6. I was really impressed. Sitting on about 70 mph on the motorway north of Albany it was on 9% throttle. The other thing I found was the throttle was only opening to where the secondaries on the throttle body just cracked. A 5 minute bend on the accelerator pedal and throttle goes to 100%. Not that a mild 350 Pontiac needs 1000 cfm, it did need more than the guestimated 400 cfm it was getting to. On Sunday went for a drive out to Hunua to see @sheepers and collect a Holden workshop manual. The car is a joy to drive and even gets reasonable fuel economy. Its only going to take 35000 miles for the fuel savings to pay for the EFI conversion. Considering its taken me 28 years to do 17000 miles I better drive this thing a lot more. From a its so much better perspective the EFI is an absolute win and worth every last cent.

Took this for a run at Highlands on Saturday. The Central Otago Motorsport Club run a sprint on Track C each year. It's reverse direction with the addition of the whoops and an extra corner through the forest, so there aren't many straights and it favours good handling cars. Suits me! It's a pretty busy little section of track... I'd say it's the coolest format of any sprint I've done in ~20 years of motorsport. Here's an external view: My workmates Brandon and Taz were running the B18CR City, which also suited the track really well. We ended up 1st, 2nd and 4th out of the 48 entries. Not bad There's a couple more videos on my YouTube channel if you're keen to see more: https://www.youtube.com/@truenotch/videos

Danny sent us a link to this 65 Fairlane which looked like an absolute gem, and my wife really loved the style, and I really did not... So it was quite timely for this next car to pop up for sale. I think the message I sent to Danny said something along the lines of "I've found a car to fall in love with"

So then we found this one: It had been parked for a long time, but looked tidy enough, and even cheaper than the first. So we sent the man out to have a look... And the for sale photos must have been very old photos... Cos the actual car had been matty-b'd over the brown at some stage and looked like even that paint looked like it was old. It seemed OK rust wise, and all complete and original, but just stunk of of a car that was hiding some bullshit and the interior was seriously grotty beyond what I was willing to deal with. Mostly I was just not going to buy a car that was clearly misleading. So that one was out. The first car was mid-March 2024, this brown one was early April. Keep hunting...

Yearly update, but things are progressing well. I’ve had this thing for 14 years now and while I’m proud I got it running in its old guise, I’m really excited to see it become the car I always wanted it to be. Since the last update it’s had: - Diff drain/fill and breather repaired - Extractors - Moved to 15 inch wheels, looks pretty stout- enkei j speed with R888 tyres - New body panels, scuttle, bonnet Nearly time for paint, I’m thinking Honda championship white. Anyway, pics

Settle in for a sharn… We’ve been talking for a year or two about selling our mustang and getting an old wagon. The muzzy isn’t quite big enough for us to do family trips in, and we can’t/dont want to tow the caravan with it. So a wagon seemed like a good idea. After we had been thinking and talking about doing this for such a long time, a really tidy 67 Country Sedan popped up on the LA Wellington Shipping Facebook page. Some boxes we wanted to tick were: Small block v8, ideally manual, 10 seat option, power steering, power disc brakes. This one ticked all the boxes, and the price was spot on. So we sent some money, and Danny from LA Wellington Shipping sent his man in the states to go and inspect it. How exciting! This was all moving pretty fast! He came back pretty quick with a stack of photos and to let us know that he had turned it down. It was so close to good enough but not quite. Little rust holes and scabs all over the place and some misaligned panels that have him bad feelings for NZ compliance. This was pretty gutting, but gave us some confidence in who we were dealing with and that he wouldn’t knowingly set us up buying a shitter. But we were on the slide now, so kept hunting to find another car.

After picking up @Raizer new au and falling for the power and lush air suspension I wanted something similar. Criteria was German v8 wagon because wagons are awesome. Had a nosey around and saw this E 500 on trademe. Went and had a look and a deal was done. M113 v8 and 7 speed auto so goes hard for what it is Had some tints installed Previous owner just had a $6k service done. Engine mounts and rocker cover gaskets, rear tyres and a alignment. It's come with a stack of receipts and barry notes from a past owner

Look at my massive semi I have three more somewhere too. They should be good for the Coronet Peak Hillclimb in November.

Good advise, but the wheels are the best feature of the car tbh

Just get wheels that fit right!

Roman dave 3d printed ITB manifold plz

Maybe if you were updating the cert for wheel swap or seats etc. But power upgrade would be a different kettle of fish.

yes mate - would you put your name to a power upgrade without going over the existing supporting mods to see if they are still safe? this car is a prime example, certed 20 years ago, remember the coil overs were just about falling out (poor engineering), brake lines fouling, driveline hitting the floor as no bump stops plus a bunch of other items. I for one wouldn't sign off on it, its a case of the last person to look at it owns it.

White smoke can be brake fluid , check its not leaked into the booster and is chewing on that ?

Fuckers going to do a George RR Martin and leave us with no last book in this frankly epic story. I bet the TV adaptation will be great up too, right up until the last couple of seasons, where it will lose direction and leave us with a filthy taste in our mouths.

So the process for this particular car to this point had taken a long time... Like 2 months from seeing the ad and enquiring to finally having the inspection in hand and making the call to buy it. The seller worked away from home, and then went on holiday, and was not interested in being particularly helpful, or seemingly in any kind of hurry to sell his car. So when we finally got to the point where we had seen it and all looked good, and we sent the message to say "Yup we will take it, how much $$ buys it and when can we have it picked up?" - We never heard from him again. As you can imagine at this point I was kind of done, its now July. I'd had enough, the money we had aside was starting to get chewed into by other things, and I was pretty fucked off with America. I'd started looking at XJ6's on trademe again, clearly I was in a bad place. No other decent cars seemed to be coming up for sale, so I stopped looking so hard and just from time to time shifted my location on the old Facebook Marketplace to different states to keep half an eye on things. Then I stumbled across a 67 on Craigslist in Montana. The photos were pretty low-res, but it looked tidy enough. It had a 390 with some work done on it, 10 seats, Holley Sniper EFI and some electric power steering system. It also came with a second car for parts. It looked like a pretty sweet deal even with 2 lots of shipping. I could see the obligatory rust in the bottom of the doors, and it looked like some in the rear quarter. The sellers were not at all tech savy and were seriously struggling to send photos via email. They managed to send enough photos to confirm yes, rusty doors and rear quarter. It looked like it would be 50/50 on what it might be like underneath. But if the parts car was halfway reasonable, then selling that on arrival would probably leave a bit of meat on the bone to pay for some repairs if needed. A couple of other cars started to come up for sale, the Galaxie market seemed to be coming alive again. I messaged a few and got more photos, and they were all total shitters. The two for one deal was starting to look pretty good so we were going to get a Lemon Squad inspection. The sellers struggle with tech and the obvious rust had me pretty nervous though...

I think the next car we found was this 66 Fairlane. I was definitely more keen on a Galaxie, but the Fairlane wasn't as long and this thing looked mint! But... we got some more photos from the seller and that shiny paint had lots of nasty looking bubbles in it. No thanks. This 68 LTD popped up in NZ, but it was a bit more than we wanted to spend, I didn't want a 390, and I don't want a 68 as I'm not a fan of the front of them. It was proving quite hard to find what we were after. This one came up and again it looked perfect! Until they sent us photos of the floor pan... Which looked like someone had lifted the wrong place with a hoist and crushed the rear pan up These two were tidy, but very povo spec optioned, and were 68 models. I think I worked out that they were Mexican market cars. They didn't have the flip over headlights, and had almost no option boxes ticked. The blue one came from the factory with a heater/blower delete fitted... So no power steering, no power brakes, no AC... There were plenty of rough and rusty... (in hindsight this one doesn't look so bad! - Edit: I remember now, it was all dented up as well. You can see it in the doors.)

Been robbing bits off the green meanie, mostly things that will improve the overall experience of the blue. Like this little bit of plastic that goes over the throttle mech under the pedals; This is kindof important as @yoeddynz found out when he drove it, because it is surprisingly easy to accidentally wide open the throttle by pushing down on what you think is the floor as you enter the car, but is actually the throttle rod that runs under the pedals. I had to grab his trousers and forcibly lift his leg up, and he immediately got a totally inappropriate erection. So here is me trying to prevent that shit happening. I really didnt want to drill out the broken off screws in the floor, plus all the plastic had broken off where the holes were meant to be anyway so I glued it in place and held down with what was to hand. While I was grovelling in that area I also grabbed the footrest to replace the fudge one I had made, here it is getting some rust treatment and paint. Obviously i was doing all this while I removed the filthy rat piss and oil soaked carpet. Getting this out wasnt a good time. I waterblasted it then soaked it in toilet cleaner and blasted it again. Better. Good enough actually given the state of the rest of the car. I also grabbed the uno turbo front brakes, these looked ok. I'll rebuild the calipers and see if I can find discs, they might get slipped on but someone in Canada wants them really badly. I might see how badly they want them, I need some cash right now. Also GC @shizzl picked up a TM gearbox for me from some old dude in Manakau. I popped over to Picton to grab it as he was on the way through, but when I got home I had a decent look and it wasn't an X gearbox at all. I gently enquired of the old boy if he was trying to fuck me, but he tells me it was a genuine mistake. Unfortunately he is now in Prague or somewhere for a few weeks but assures me he will ship the right one free of charge when he is back. Sigh. Also we fixed the black bitches brake lights that failed as the inevitable result of touching the loom when he removed the heater box. This turned out to be a sweet twist n tape join in the brake wire under the dash that despite using a tried and true method had somehow parted company. Elliot ended a happy boy and I got a bottle of nice beer, so totally worth the grovelling.

Another quick update. The engine and gearbox are back in, and the bolts have been torqued up for the first time which is a little exciting. I also bled the clutch. To be honest it did it itself really. All I did was keep topping up the mc and performed a couple of quiet pumps and then tightened up the bleeder. And it seems to be doing all the right things (Yay). Even more excitement. I really need to write my own order of procedure for this as if you don't bolt some things in the correct order then it could cause a major meltdown. Maybe I have turned a Hillman into a Jaguar. Of course, there has to be a pic. Also a pic of my Minx I had, and as the song goes by Linda Ronstadt A long long time ago.

My usual a/c guy has raised his regas price by 33% so I voted with my feet and found a different place further along the road that is still charging the old price. Really nice guys and the service was way more professional so they will be getting my business from now on. And that's hopefully the last of my a/c related issues.

@Raizer is going look at making some links for his au so if they work out I'll get him to make me a set. Will wait until the tyres are more worn before they get sacrificed as I'm a tight arse I'm aware it'll potientally be expensive for now the comfort is worth it/ it'll be future me problem and when it breaks down I'll have a nice leather seat to nap in I felt a bit bad loading this lot into it but wagons are for hauling stuff at the end of the day

Motor is fully assembled, I've mostly been waiting on engineering of some smaller items to be able to carry on Modified primary fuel rail to suit 1000cc injectors. Cut all the 6 port actuators off the manifold, and welded over the holes to smooth it out. Welded a boss into back of the waterpump to accept the autometer sender. Still waiting on the new side mount alternator bracket I purchased to be cut up and modified do as to lift the alternator higher up, the 'bolt on' item as purchased gives about 4mm movement before the alternator hits the chassis rail.... Pulled apart the old blower manifold to find a massive restriction for flow, there was just 4 round holes drilled through Whereas the mani is a much larger oval shape, currently getting it cncd out to match, and maybe a bit more flow into the port. Still won't be ideal, as a lot of the boost still just hits straight into the blower plate, but should be far better than was was there. Also have an AEM water meth kit on order to help control boost temps, and ign stability

Haven't tried a compression check but starting to think I'd be best served by swapping my old head back on, be it stem seals or cracked head.

This morning I cracked into the fitting of the replacement a/c compressor. First step was to remove the manifold from the old compressor. It looked a bit manky, so I gave it a quick spritz of degreaser followed by a light dose of sandpaper before fitting it to the new unit. It's not mint, but it looks better than it did. There is limited space between the engine and the chassis rail as can be seen here: So the process for refitting goes as follows: Step 1 - Stick the 4 mounting bolts through the compressor (there is not enough room to fit these bolts later) Step 2 - Reverse the compressor into the gap and push it hard against the chassis leg like so: Step 3 - Reverse the mounting bracket into the gap between the compressor and the engine like so: Step 4 - install the 4 bolts that hold the bracket to the side of the engine. Step 5 - Tighten down the 4 previously inserted compressor through bolts. I then chucked on a fresh drive belt, connected the hoses to the manifold and connected up the clutch engagement wire. And that's the compressor done and dusted. She's a pretty tight one as can be seen in this photo: With that done, all that remained was to replace the reciever/drier bottle with a fresh one: Last step was to reinstall the radiator, engine box lid and side panels and the air deflector plate and she is back on the road. I'm booked in for a re-gas at 10am on Friday, so hopefully that goes well.

Also this is what the green menace once looked like, check the fucking epic supercharger setup!

2 months since an update, been working on the car when time allows. I'll start with the rear, I removed all the show car boxed in boot trim, moved the battery to the RH side and purchased a proper cert spec Moroso battery box, far better than just having the battery tie downs just hooked through the floor sheet metal as it was before. Bonus is I can actually run a spare wheel now too! After much thought, I decided to try a high pressure pump and surge tank combo, to save space, should be ok for what I'm trying to achieve. All new speed flow push lock AN fittings, and brand new carter lift pump. Fire extinguisher also mounted for a bit of piece of mind, will also fit another one in the cabin. Also had an O2 sensor bung fitted at the exhaust merge to assist with tuning once up and running. Although it all needs a clean, I'm trying not to be as fussy with detailing on this build, as I really don't want another long term time consuming project again.

Been slack at taking photos, although there's more photos than I thought there'd be. Got the driveshaft hoops done. Rear one was pretty tight to fit in the tunnel. Front one didn't have much room above the driveshaft and shifter, but it all ended up pretty good. Once the driveshaft and diff pinion angle was sorted I could finally fill in the new tunnel at the back. I wanted to tuck the radiator under the radiator support panel, but there is usually another support that goes vertical down from the centre. So pulled that out and made up a new one out of tube, for a bit more room. New thick core sort of tucks under nicely. Built some stainless steel headers. Didn't take very long to make! The no.1 runner is a little longer than the rest so they aren't quite equal length but I'm not too worried anyway. I have now welded tension springs on to the collector and cleaned up the flange welds. Made a little bracket for the oil level tube. Made a reservoir for the brake and clutch fluid. Think I'll powder coat it black or something. Made a Aluminium fuel tank. Slightly larger than the factory one and a bit more centered. The original strap mounts didn't really line up or exist anymore so had to weld some tube across the chassis rails. As you can tell I also stripped all the old underseal off, took way too long! Stripped and cleaned the heater and then got all the steel bits zinc plated. Added some new foam on the sealing faces too. Pulled apart the engine because I didn't really know what else to do/was waiting on some other bits to arrive haha. Everything looked alright in there. Have ordered everything to rebuild it apart from bearings, as I need to get them measured up. Borrowed a Ultrasonic cleaner and chucked most parts in there. They come out sooo good!

Both back sections of the floor done. Has an exhaust tunnel through it to suit a duel 2" system, should be able to tuck it right up above the chassis rails. Sills and chassis rails are now the lowest point in the middle section of the car. Made a rear strut brace to strengthen the upper shock mounts and to accommodate the extra load of coilovers. Made the exhaust tunnel through the front foot well too. Notched out the crossmember above the diff for clearance. Made a mount for a Wilwood pedal box, need to figure out where to put the reservoirs and move the accelerator pedal over a little. Raised the spare wheel well up 60mm to fit a larger fuel tank. Was a good chance to also drill out the spot welds on that centre mount and tidy up the rust that was forming in between.

Bought a set 13x6.5 Work Equip 01's. Will refurbish them and then decide if I want to run them. Also scored this off Yahoo Auctions a while back. Has the plugs and also came with some black dash parts. Decided on how to raise the tunnel. Bent the handbrake section up to match the height of where the old gearbox tunnel top piece had to go. Then made up some filler pieces to fill the gaps. Plan was to keep it looking as factory as possible. Had to remake the crossmember as it needed to be built up higher. Used some tube that matched the radius and bent it to suit. Welded in filler pieces. Cleaned up. Next was to make some strips to fill in the sides. Had contemplated making them with the factory swagings, but decided it would be easier to flatten them out and make the strips flat. Then the tunnel to firewall gap needed filling. Made a paper template, transferred it to the steel, cut it, formed it and it nearly fitted perfectly first try. All cleaned up. Up next was the firewall cutout for the dizzy blank cover to sit in. Tried again to make it look factory, which I think turned out pretty good. Stripped out all the sound deadening with dry ice. Have only cleaned off the residue from the passengers seat and footwell area. Pulled out all the wiring as well. Need a F-series diff now.