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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/27/22 in all areas

  1. When I was a kid, my Mum taught me that it was rude to take basically anything offered to us kids when we went somewhere. So we go to someone's house, and they're expecting us, so they've made some chocolate biscuits especially for us to eat. Which are the best thing ever because I'm like 8 years old. Fucking delicious! However. I'd been conditioned to say "No thank you" because doing otherwise was rude. For the person who baked something especially for us arriving, it's was disappointing that no one wanted their food. "How could kids not want delicious my biscuits?" "Are they especially bad?" "What did I do wrong?" How could my Mum not understand how mutually disappointing this situation was? It didnt make any sense to me then, and I've still no idea who profited from this situation. The people were happy to give me a biscuit, and I was happy to eat it. Surely this is the worlds simplest situation to keep everyone happy. I fucking love biscuits, and it tears me up thinking how many I missed out on, at the stage of my life when they were the most delicious. God damn. For some reason, tonight I have had a revelation that refusing willing help from people here draws parallels to this situation. I have been conditioned to feel shameful about accepting assistance that's willingly offered. Why? So for anyone who's willing to chip in a few bucks, I can promise you this: I'll spend any contributions towards a Prius motor, and maybe exhaust parts. I will not spend any contributed money on psychological counselling for my unresolved childhood trauma about missing out on biscuits. I also promise I will come to your house and eat your biscuits if you invite me over. https://givealittle.co.nz/cause/finding-a-cure-for-the-atkinson-cycle Thanks to anyone that wants to help, and by all means dont anyone feel obligated.
    25 points
  2. I think you could be right about that. If the piston is trying to fly apart, where the top of the piston is trying to carry on upwards, and the pin is pulling it back down. So the material strength around the pin is the weakness. Then on the exhaust stroke this force is lessened, and when the cylinder is full, on the compression stroke this force is lessened too. The engine didnt fail when it was approaching max rpm, it failed just after a gear shift where throttle got cut to zero. So the worst case scenario would be zero throttle, high vacuum, high rpm on the compression stroke. I'm not sure if these forces are on the same magnitude as each other though. However, I can indeed increase my piston return spring value. I can use e-throttle to set a minimum high rpm throttle value to something like 10% or 20%, and then use a fuel cut and/or pull zillions of ignition timing out to cut power instead. This might bring a host of its own issues, but might be a bodgey solution I guess haha. Flat shifting, interestingly enough, would also help haha. The incredibly clever @Lith made a calculator ages ago that works out forces on pistons/rods. Entering 1NZ stuff. Peak accelleration on the piston at 9000rpm is 4991G! I'm not sure what sort of numbers I was expecting, but thats bloody lots. Then the PEAK piston speed is 41.7 meters per second. Which is 8200 feet per minute. Which is zillions high when 3500fpm is the reccomended mean value.
    11 points
  3. Proud of you kid. Eat the fricken biscuits
    7 points
  4. I'm going to throw out a wild conspiracy theory that your stock pistons could do 9275 rpm before the top comes off, because of the exhaust backpressure pushing down on the top of the piston Once you have a free flowing exhaust your piston lids will come off at 9021 rpms Might be time for some stronger piston return springs
    6 points
  5. @Romanmaybe you could look into forging your own pistons like Burt Munro? "They were hand-cast using sand from local beaches in a variety of receptacles, including tin cans. They were then painstakingly finished with file and lathe,” Pretty sure you could improve on that with some 3dprints etc for molds Break up some broken pistons to melt down etc
    5 points
  6. I love how the first sniff of a 1nz conversion and DaveScience is in there with the maths. I heartedly approve. #1nztheworld #morerevs
    5 points
  7. It was a tight fit, but I managed to fit the Amp under the passengers seat. I lifted it up off the carpet a little incase it gets warm from bulk doof doof. Whipped up some simple mounts this afternoon that allow the amp to be removed with taking the seat out if need be. Not that its hard to take seat out. I'l finish wiring the Amp tomorrow, hook the Sub up and see if I can rattle any bog out.
    5 points
  8. In further suspension fiddling I sourced a pair of these rear springs that are 20mm shorter than the current mx73 bc short ones and a dual spring rate.
    4 points
  9. Just need some variable compression ratio rods.
    4 points
  10. Spent Matariki Friday making the mounts for the rear 1/4 speakers. I didn't have the factory optional mount so I got creative. Probably a bit overkill but I needed to recess them in so they didn't hit the trim panel. They sound awesome so pretty happy with the result for someone who doesn't do much woodwork.
    4 points
  11. Got the all the wiring run, main fuse to Amp mounted and front speakers mounted. Wired headunit and powered it up. It spits out a Creed CD, so I did the world a favour.
    4 points
  12. Lols at the comparisons being drawn between this and other high performance engines of the ilk, such as K series, A series, and Holden 6.
    4 points
  13. Not much progress on this lately, unfortunately. Looks like I'll be changing plans to a different style IRS rear end. If I use the MX5 one, I can't run a rear seat. I did however buy a 3d printer. So been learning how to use fusion 360. So far made some velocity stacks for some R1 itbs, and a radio delete plate for the wagon. Will try a flatter paint next time. Was supposed to be satin, but looks too glossy for for my liking. Some guard mirrors are next. If anyone has dimensions for either the mirrors, or radio plate, that would be amazing.
    4 points
  14. Tried them with another 14" A type wheel and they will work as long as tyre isn't bulging past the rim. Saw these pop up and grabbed them since I haven't seen them before. They are an uncommon 14" work equip mesh Each of the hex head bolts are engraved with 'work' And they have pretty cool black valve stems/caps. These will be widened to a 9/10J stagger as the potenza tr-3 were. I've managed to get a pair of 225/40 toyo t1r to try on and see how they work with the rear flares.
    3 points
  15. I'm thinking, that since you have blown out both sides of the block, the rod was still attached to the crank when it went for a flail. So I'm guessing that the piston was the first to fail.
    3 points
  16. Have been a bit slack on this as of late, will blame the weather. Had a few weeks off from my day job and thought I would make a start on installing the new cambelt and water pump tensioner etc I had purchased. Couldn't find the washer to space the tensioner out so ordered new with a few new engine plastics also. I think I have it all to put the front of the engine back together including cam seals and front main seal These are a bit nicer than the cracked and scraped ones the car came with and cheaper than you think.
    3 points
  17. How much do these weigh? Find this information for me, and I'll send you back some dataz on predictions for how each version of the car will run With an NA K24, turbo K24, NA 1NZ, turbo 1NZ
    3 points
  18. if it's in a paddock near by, be sure to flatten the grass in a circular fashion while working the metal detector, this will ensure maximum chance of finding the lost bits..
    3 points
  19. Today's mission was the driver's side rear quarter window. Again all 3 rollers riveted to the window frame were seized solid, so first step was to replace those. The little roller pins were well rusty. Before installing the window backing plate I wrapped the rear wiring harness in new cloth tape and threaded it through to the boot. Gave the rest of the window components a liberal coating of spray grease and wrestled that puppy back into place. With both rear quarter windows now installed I was able to finally fit the new weather strips and rubber end plates. You can see just how bad the old belt lines were. I'd even sourced new screws for the rubber end plates cause I'm a lost case. Thanks for looking.
    3 points
  20. Thanks to the replies in the tech spam thread which basically reinforced what I was thinking, which is it doesn't have enough air flow and needs a better fan I thought I'll live with the fan noise if that means I can actually drive it So I embarked on the mission of finding an engine driven fan that fits Found the one I wanted on an NZ website , sweet, ordered it. Nope, " no stock sorry" Bugger. Found a different supplier who had one, ordered off their website "Sorry, no stock, they might be here in 3 weeks? " Poos. Local guy had a plastic flex fan , I didn't want one of those as they are a lot deeper but meh I'll give it a shot , chucked it on, needed a bigger spacer so the blade cleared the alternator. spent ages rummaging around for some bolts Started it, ran for a bit, moves heaps of air, good Gave it a rev to about 2500, the inch or so clearance at the bottom became 0 clearance and the fan hit the tank and broke the tip off one blade Ah yes that's why I hate these fans Luckily no damage to the radiator apart from some dinged fins Found a stock 245 steel fan I had in a box under the house, chucked that on, it will do for now and I'll find the one I want I think with a shroud on it should be OK, the mechanical fans move heaps more air. It still creeps up at idle in the shed but no shroud and a slower fan speed than stock due to pulley sizes are the reasons I think
    3 points
  21. I decided to replace the front seats with something that gives some lateral support. The original bucket seats didn't provide much more than a bench seat and one had been reupholstered in a different green so I thought these would do the job nicely. These seats have detachable head rests. I will need to get the rear seat redone to match and spraying the door cards with black vinyl spray should do as they are in good condition. Just working out how to mount them. The original seats were held in with two bolts at the front and the rear of the seats were on slides. The bits that were bolted to the seats and engaged the slides were only made of plastic.
    3 points
  22. Becaue everyone likes pics of honda stuff here's some more Grabbed some dowls from work that actually fit Borrowed the 14mm hex of the neighbor and put in the an fitting into the block so I'll actually have a chance at pcv stuff. Next time I'm at lockup I'll grab a catch can and see if it'll fit
    2 points
  23. Whilst the blue panniers were a great addition theyre just too brittle and small parts kept breaking off after every ride. So I bit the bullet and decided to start making some from steel. To start with I made some channel out of 18g with a slight radius, not a breaked edge. Then I had to modify my shrinker stretcher stand as once I got to certain point it would hit the stretcher stand upright. so I moved them apart . Using the shrinker I incrementally started shrinking the sides. Shrinking one side then the other so they'd both be the same. One end is 90 and the other is just under. Next is to make the sides and get them welded in
    2 points
  24. I did a bit of work on this a few months back to try get a warrant and fine tune some suspension bits but it didn't really pan out so it's just been sitting. I also sold the Bridgestone tr-3 to a friend who needed something quick to build his car around. Purchased some of these beams! 40mm roll centre adjusters from Australia Stuck them in and went for a drive and heard a horrible grinding It was clarencing the wheel weight on
    2 points
  25. Spent the morning fitting the glass and winder mechanism into the driver's door. Wow, what a difference the refurbished winder mechanism makes. Smooth as silk. Cracked out the new weather strips and door seal and fitted those too. Final step was to fit the interior door panel and related bling. And, that's the driver's door ready to rock and roll.
    2 points
  26. Or just put your head on a big hinge...
    2 points
  27. Thought about the possible look on Cletus face if a k24 or 1nzfe swapped commodore got booked in for cert.
    2 points
  28. I am pleased you are taking the biscuit.
    2 points
  29. After running the engine a couple Fridays ago, I noticed a leak from steering box output shaft. Whipped it out on the Monday and dropped it down to PG Hydraulics. They put a new seal in and bench tested. Collected it on the Thursday and threw it back in that night. I'm not a huge audio guy, but have had a bunch of gear lying around for years. Sorted through some bits and made a decision on what to run. Pioneer bluetooth headunit that came out of my Lexus. Pair of Pioneer 6" speakers in the rear 1/4s. I keep them when I sold my old Vt commy because they sounded good. Some 4" Jvc speakers to go in the factory dash speaker location. And an old Amp and Sub that a customer didn't want when he put new gear in his truck. Even had an Rca cable to suit in my stash of bits. Just had to buy a fuse and some speaker / 12v+ cables for it all.
    2 points
  30. The subframe has a bit of surface rust. And some oily greasy stuff that the water blaster didn't shift. This is a bit of a no-effort experiment. I know the electrolysis will remove the rust and after a few days it may lift some of the paint(from previous experience). But I want to see if it will lift any of the oily stuff. I could do with a deeper container... but where can I get one that's as cheap as a $18 warehouse paddling pool? An IBC tank with the top cut off would be good, but I can't find anything nearby and I also don't want to spend ~$100
    2 points
  31. We have a new project! We won't share too many details until we have made some progress of our own but we have secured a project that a friend was not able to see through. Looking forward to finishing it with some of our own touches. A real credit to the hard work he has already done
    1 point
  32. Yeah your car is literally twice as heavy as anything that suits a 1.5 litre engine hahaha. But cos it's a laugh, here we are. Alright so this is all of the above data, no weights changed but just engines swapped. Still auto trans and a 3.3 final drive. NA 1NZFE, since this is the least suitable option I'm assuming it's doorty so 160hp @ 8000rpm with 9000 limiter. Turbo 1NZFE 300hp @ 8000, 9000rpm limit NA K24A is the best standard power version, 204hp 7600 limiter Turbo K24A is 300hp @ 7000rpm 7600 limiter If you want to try any of these numbers a bit different, let me know
    1 point
  33. Not a huge update but slowly chipping away at dads ST whilst waiting for my engine to arrive from overseas. In the meantime Ive reinstalled the original engine so to stop me from tripping over it everytime I walk past it, and also make it easier to move when I move house end of July. Swingarm is painted satin black to match the guard. The tool holder was stripped and painted too.
    1 point
  34. Just after morning smoko the courier pitched up with my 2 inch lowering kit for the rear axle. Much excite. Unpacked the parcel and ....... instant fail. Not sure what this kit is for, but it's definitely not for a 66 Mustang. Absolutely nothing fits. Just waiting to hear back from the supplier.
    1 point
  35. I've never seen bearings in track rollers. Are those the bottom ones or the top? Most shops will swap them over/out. The only type I've seen apart are CAT and they had a big arsed pin that ran in a bigger arsed bushing. Everything floated in oil. Once one of those go it's mates need to be looked at closely. An undercarriage lives in one of the most abusive environs known to man. Dozers more than diggers but they pretty much operate all in the same way. Leaving machines in wet area's/under water is asking for trouble in the undercarriage department. Ching ching ching!
    1 point
  36. How's the ring gap? I have heard of ring gap closing up when pistons get hotter than intended from the factory setup then wedging in the cylinder. Maybe it happened at tdc and the rod yanked the bottom of the piston off. Probably unlikely but another thing you could check on the other pistons. Maybe do some maths with thermal expansion coefficients and see if it would be likely to close the gap in the temperature ranges it could be experiencing.
    1 point
  37. Barra is a fucking fantastic engine but it is huge and capable of making more power than my licence can handle, And there is already a Barradore on the forum that's going to be way more epic than I could hope to build. If I can build something that makes good reliable power that doesn't destroy gearboxes and diffs that would be ace.
    1 point
  38. OK, normally I'd say k swap is cool, but I think we all know turbo Barra is the answer here..
    1 point
  39. Got the bottom end assembled, windage tray and oil pickup on. Sump gasket pood onto the sump with black schmoo like factory. Replaced bypass spring and valve as it was cheap enough Had a cunt of a time with the crank seal in the oil pump, after about 10 attempts I got it in properly. Attempted to wrinkle black the rocker cover. Etch primed it in the paint booth and peaked there Sat the head on and test fitted the cheap headers, I'll get away with a 2.5" 90 bend off them and it'll line up nicely with the rest of the exhaust. Hopefully I can move the cat up and fit the reso and flexi in Unsurprisingly the dowel pins that came with aliexpress kit are shit, flop around in the head and don't for the block or the head bolts. Fitted the shifter cables and sat the crv shifter in to see where stuff wants to sit. I'll need to very carefully drill the firewall and miss the heater core and ducting. I can pretend I'm a rally/race driver as the crv shifter is super tall Mounted the oil feed plate to feel better about fighting the rings and crank seal today
    1 point
  40. I made a start on the head today ( bit of work ). the exhaust ports are going to be opened up being a turbo so I started with that side .. might just do a bit in the evenings after work.. this is a standard pinto exhaust port. the manifold is allready matched to the gasket so I just put the gasket on the head and painted it to give me some guide lines. and here's what I've done so far ... I'm paranoid about going through in one side where it is thin so I didn't do that much that side ... just opened it all up.. still only roughed at this point.
    1 point
  41. bits and pieces have arrived for the motor (still bits to come) but most importantly the pistons have ..so I can putva rod and pistion together and check the compression ratio to see if I need to deck the block.. turns out it's 8.263 -1 .. I'm pretty happy happy with that to run boost.. also huge thanks to nismo-Capri for rods... and info on porting heads... that will be next on the list . while I wait for some bit to turn up.
    1 point
  42. A few weeks ago I managed to bring the b2000 inside to make a push to finish it. Took tray off for the last time, and got the taillight wiring/earths run, and also cut & raised the driveshaft hanger bearing to get better d-shaft alignment. Gave the rear clip a clean and the rear cab wall a quick hand polish and put the tray back on for good. Also managed to snag a nice pair of license plate lights which I had been hunting for a while from Zebra
    1 point
  43. Those are the bits I wanted from it... Rare find. And can see the BodySonic control amp that came with another YAJ score mid last year. Also got the correct optional head-deck made by Pioneer for the Citys with that score.
    1 point
  44. Been a while since an update. Back tracking about 8-9 months ago I brought a City T1 seat from Japan. It was through Moonlight just before he did his last shipment and unfortunatly I just missed that last container. It was no big deal as I wasn't in a rush, so it ended up getting put aside at Stacked waiting for the first shipment from Empire Imports. Fast forward to about a month ago. It finally lands, and is ready for pickup. International shipping is fucked as of late. Anyway, it wasn't the seat I wanted, I actually went halves in all the costs with a guy who wanted it for his T1 resto, but it was the small woofers in the back and base that are pretty hard to find. These came as an optional Pioneer audio 'BodySonic' package. Basically a mono woofer that makes no sound but just gives a vibration with the music. I allready have the BodySonic control unit so now I just have to find another seats worth of woofers to retrofit into my Tallboy City project one day.
    1 point
  45. Just a quick job over the weekend. I got a replacement mirror (will get one for other side, just wanted to see how it looked first) and you can see compared to the one that was on there this is much more sleek design. Still equally useless as the actual mirror size is tiny but looks better. Also I learnt the reason for the passenger side mounting being janky is it never had one from the factory! One mirror only, but seeing as I have holes in there might as well use them so I'll get another.
    1 point
  46. Some tom cat spam for your viewing pleasure December 1982 wheel that up until yesterday hadn't been on a vehicle as far as I can tell. This brings the collection to three wheels, the other two are with Aidan at Pine engineering currently.
    1 point
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