Leaderboard

He is clearly of the "throw money at it until it works" rather than "throw scrap and talent at it until it works" school of thought. Does he not know that the calipers will be sourced from some shitbox, the rotors from another unrelated shitbox, the master cylinder from a tractor and that it only needs those $45 worth of parts and 47 hours and you will have a brembo equivalent? Fucking amateur.

Martha is now in fine fettle and about to go up for sale. But before I do a listing I thought i'd do an update here. She went up on the hoist and I removed all the front bumper/lights/guards etc. The rust that she had failed her last wof on was all along the bottom of the radiator support - probably the most typical place for NZ k11s to rot. Cut it all out and let in new steel. Pics explain it easier.. Phew. Done. Gave it a good coating of paint. Then while the guards were off I cut out the rotten corner on one and let in new steel.. While up on the hoist I gave the underside a clean, check over and quick tart up with some of the ever magical CRC Black Zinc 'new car in a can'... Then the surface rust around the windscreen. It looks like it had been flagged for rust, the previous owner then started cutting away the sealing trim around the screen and gave up. I cleaned it right out, wire brushed it back, painted a POR 15 type inhibiting paint around the full perimeter. More pics.. Then masked the car up and gave it some sparkle with a can of colour paint. It came up fine. Nothing flash but far better than what it was like when we got it plus now solid. There was a dent on the drivers guard, 'fixed' with poorly applied filler. I did my best to tidy it up, feather it in and paint it with the small amount of patience I could muster up and its improved but certainly something that needs more love. Then this stupid bloody sticker... Heating it up, very carefully, allowed me to peel the 'JDM scene' off without leaving a trace. Hannah spent some time tending to the usual little surface rust spots k11s get under the rear boot seal and add some aluminium tape over the holes that we've learned through experience can allow water in.. Se also replaced the brake pads for some almost new items we scored from the wreckers...

My response was..

We had fitted the spare wheels from Molly but one was worn so a good tyre was sourced and fitted. Then we took her for a wof and she flew through with flying colours. There was a chip in the screen that was noted and we already knew about however it was not in a zone that mattered. Still, just to be sure, we had our friendly glass man squirt some of his magic goo into the crack while Hannah watched with keen interest... While he was there he also tended to a tiny chip on Minkys screen. The wof pass was about a month ago. We've been driving her about and watching for any issues and the only one that I noted was how slow she was to heat up. I suspected a removed thermostat and had mild alarm bells ring however she never used water nor heated up beyond normal. I pulled the thermostat cover off (noting that there was still factory grey sealant present) and happily discovered that there was still one in there, stuck open and looked to be the original Nissan item..albeit very stuffed.. I swapped in a spare we had kept from Molly and it heats up properly now. She drives really well. Very peppy, seems to be as thrifty on fuel as they should be too. Handles well but very stiff on what seem to be even stiffer springs then whats fitted to Minky. Really fun on the right roads but a little tiring if you're just wanting to cruise A to B. We've taken the squeal free wheels that we'd swapped on, fitted them to Minky and Martha now wears Supercats on the front for maximum squealing delight So that is that. Took some nice photos of her the other week. We will now list Martha up for sale tonight on Trademe (because its free car listings tonight) and see what sort of interest there is. I'll pop an advert up on here too. With luck the next rather special K11 that we have been told might be heading our way will actually come to be. Quite excited about it but I wont say anything more in case it doesn't happen. If it doesn't then at least I might get more done on the Imp..

And then this...

Other side. And same double plating over rusty metal. I think the sill has been replaced before. That hole at the top looks like it was caused by a chisel. And the flange on the left has been partially cut off. Clamping a bit of copper behind the holes so I can weld them without making bigger holes. And fixed all the cuts and nicks. I also used the vacuum and compressed air to clean out the sill and the inside of the crossmember that goes across the car.

I recently popped up some recent photos of the flat six on the Hillman Imp Facebook group. Lots of enthusiasm for it but I was waiting for a Barry to quip in...

As always been neglecting this car but I did do something to it by chance. Found a cyborg in my mates paddock so purchased it to strip for parts. Wasn't much worth saving but the motor will be of good use. 1600 dohc turbo 4g61t. Decided to mate it to my sigma gearbox using a sigma flywheel and cluch and drop it in the hole. Flipped the td04 on the stock manifold for a laugh, it won't work as it's touching steering box but kept me entertained. And purchased a modified rwd intake manifold off Bigfoot

I don't have a lathe so I carefully cleaned up the shaft using using die grinder and a flap wheel, checking it as I went. I had removed enough material that the bush would snuggly fit over the shaft and move. Success. Then I couldnt work out why it was such as effort to fit into the steering colum. It would only go half way down. It's hard to see but the end of the shaft is slightly tappered. 39mm tappered down to 38.5mm. Out came the die grinder and flap wheel again. I enlarged the internal shaft to accept the new bush and we were away laughing. Until... ...I installed it all in the van and the ends of the steering shafts don't line up. Faaaaark. I will need to enlarge the hole on the firewall and move the shaft up. I thought the assembly was supposed to be the easy part.

Have scored these missing bits so far: seats door cards arm rests rear screen front 1/4 window valence Will have a bit of a working bee on it this weekend and get some more photos

Inner sill almost done will be replacing the top part of the inner door sill amd inner a and b piller after I get the floor in so I can cut out some old repairs .

Bolted the speakers onto the ply using bolts with countersunk heads then used similar bolts to attach the ply underneath the metal shelf. The raised speakers now sit well below the parcel shelf.

Ah yeah.. I offered to buy that, had a 265 hemi in it.. But his brother who was on his death bed in hospital was still gonna do something with it..

Missing the points! Why would you get rid of a perfectly reliable ignition system. You better carry it in the frunk for rapid change over then the transistors burn out leaving you stranded

Hopes and dreams are cheap and don’t take up much space.. But there’s no fun in that! With a 289 and C4 in stock, and a couple of grand burning a hole in her pocket; it didn’t take much thought when this popped up local and a deal was done The kicker for me was how straight it was and how much was still there. Came with a few spares and 3 more 13x8 wide rims! The plan is a gasser axle under the front, Valiant or falcon diff in the back and use up all our spare shit while having something fun for dirt days/car shows/kids can play in it and I don’t have to stress about them breaking interior shit! I spent a few hours hanging the doors better and assembling the dash again but the main priority is to source some windows and keep the rain out (came with a full set but they must be zodiac)

Took to the particle board shelf with a 10mm drill bit to allow the sounds to leak through. Then slapped a bit more paint about the place. I've ordered some of that textured kitchen drawer liner stuff as per my sample to cover the panel. Should hide the holes and mounting bolts nicely. Hopefully that will arrive sometime soon. I'm not going to win any audio awards with this setup but at least it will look pretty subtle and the sound should be an improvement over my existing single dashboard speaker. Thanks for looking.

That’d be ace. Do a bit of a drive somewhere perhaps.

Next step was to carve up a piece of plywood and chuck a bit of paint on it. Clamped it in place underneath the metal shelf and marked out the fixing positions based on the factory speaker mounting holes already punched into the metal shelf. I can also make use of the holes that were previously used for the baby seat anchors as I no longer need those.

Barry's back...

The “ever lovely Mrs sr2” and I headed up North to the batch for the recent long weekend, the fishing was an improvement on the New Year. (It would be bloody hard to be worse; see the Jan 18, 22 post). On my return I was shocked to see that in my absence Rigamortice had been blatantly and deliberately emitting the nasty horrible dangerous carbon laden CO2 gas, (that our dear leader the "PC goddess of fertility and cultural sensitivity" has been repetitively warning us about).......... to the atmosphere! Still showing total faith in our “transparent” government (in these turbulent times) I was overwhelmed and riddled with guilt as to the long term effect Rigamortice’s senseless selfish act would have on climate change, (it used to be called global warming – but it didn’t get hot!). In desperation to restore our lost carbon credits and head off an imminent climate emergency I decided to “give it the Greta” and acquired an E-Vehicle. Being Oldschool (i.e. 75 oldschool years old) Rigamortice insisted that I hand in my man-card immediately………..begin the public humiliation….! Thankfully after a few medicinal Wild Turkeys, Rigamortice and I devised a cunning and fiendishly clever way of containing the evil fermenting concoction, preventing any further release of the nasty horrible climate changing CO2 gas…..What could possibly go wrong!

Car is officially warranted and registered after 6 years of shed life. The feeling is amazing! Next step is to improve the tuning on carb and timing so it pulls good as ild like to attend the oldschool drags in December

I like the rapid deployment tapemeasures.

So after sussing out the speakers I moseyed on over to the Mustang for a better look at the parcel shelf. The cover plate is actually a purchased repro part, but it has been slightly butchered in order to fit modern 3 point rear seat belts as well as dual baby seat anchors that the previous owner Tom fitted for his twin boys. I reckon I can still use it though. Lifting it out and looking at the metal structure underneath it is an almost unmolested factory panel so I definitely don't want to be cutting that up. The metal panel has a total of 5 factory cutouts presumably for speakers and the like. The centre hole is perfect for a single 6 x 9 but that helps sweet fanny adams. The holes on either side of the centre hole are a reasonable size so I'm picking I can do something with them. Started off by making a few cardboard templates, the middle one is modeled on the factory holes and the lower one on the 6 x 9s.

The head unit currently plays through a central mounted dashboard speaker. It's not ideal so I figured a set of 6 x 9's in the rear parcel shelf would be the go. Now it just so happens that I have a set of 3 ways sitting on the shelf, so I dusted them off for a closer look. The smaller speakers sit well proud of the tops and the covers look like like something you would find in Liberace's boudoir, so they will definitely look out of place in the Mustang. But fear not as I have a cunning plan.

Hey @HighLUX @GuyWithAviators maybe do a weekend one when I'm up some time? Keen to meet TGA locals.

Beautiful machines probably the finest ever Ford out of England my misspent teens were spent in mk3 s the 6s always lost 2nd gear and then eventually threw # 5 rod out of bed a nice mk3 lowered a little and debumpered and with the front and rear seams removed is a very slippery and road hugging aerodynamic shape will be awesome with 289

This one?

I did manage to force myself to get something done to the actual project car the last 6 months though. Managed to find a torque tube rubber mount in Australia, now installed so the car can finally move under its own power again. Cleaned up the front left guard and drowned the thing in fish oil: Reassembled the rear bumper installed, didnt realise the numerplate lights went between the steel bracket and the plastic until after I put it on the car the first time.. Drowned that in fish oil too: Test fitted the front bumper, amazingly everythig lines up! Now I just need to finish panel beating the front right guard, a spot of rust by the fuel flap and clean up the hatch and it will be ready for paint.

Still waiting for the weather to dry out so we can paint the doors, so I'm chipping away at multiple small jobs to keep the momentum going. I've cleaned all the crust off the interior floor pans and chucked some rust converter on to the surface rust . Followed that with a brush coat of epoxy primer. Not the prettiest looking thing, but hopefully it will keep the floors nice and solid for years to come. I've ordered 4sqm of butyl based sound deadening which should arrive late next week so that should neaten things up considerably.

Goodies have arrived. got the block in at franklin engineering getting a deck, clean and hone. all the bearings , rings and thrust washers are ready to go. will get the bottom end back together. Then send the head in for a look at and valve lap.

Engine bay well underway A few badges lights windows, chrome etc fitted too

It was somewhat depressing to learn today, when peering under the bonnet of my mates HQ Statesman, that an engine of near double capacity (ie a SB chev) is about 200mm narrower than this donk. Todays Fun fact.

Much better. Just got to linish the welds and trim that edge. The other side jacking point has a reinforcing square around the hole... I doubt I'll ever use that jacking hole ever, let alone enough to dent the area around it... But if I don't add the reinforcing square, it won't match the other side....

In terms of actual activity there is little to report, however the pondering, and opining from cunts like @ThePog and my worker - of near-equal cunt status - has been somewhat rampant. The main topic of conversation has over the last few days largely revolved around whether it is actually going to fit. It is largely a problem I have never encountered - just saying. So the motor has been sitting in the same position since we dumped it in there. I had to have a bit of a workshop tidy up. As many of you would well be familiar with, doing shit like this means sorting your shit out along the way and doing things in stages, so come assembly time you largely have all the shit in order, just requiring cleaning or a fufu can touch-up job. So I did that last night, and then suggested to Kyle that we wheel the cab back on, just to see (and to stop us thinking about the actual problems below). The carb had to be lifted off the engine to wheel the cab back over. But my oh my, doesnt it look pretty in the hole. Confirmed, It is Gynormous.. Also confirmed, the fucking thing is going to live in that hole regardless. Chassis chop, mid mound, fucking whadeva G. Every other possible engine option is shit in comparison, so that bit is solved. Now I need to solve the actual shit of ensuring whatever we do doesn't result in either a basket case chassis-hack job that will never be legal, or someones lunch being sucked out through their asshole by virtue of the carburetors somewhat prominent position inside the cabin. See pics - it is not optimal, the engine must go down in order for the carb to actually clear the engine cover and/or seat. The chassis rails actually widen where they pass under the camper body, and if they were that width in the engine bay we would already have that cunt mounted and half wired up - but alas that is not the case... So the present possible solutions are as follows; Option 1 - slice a 30mm ish slither out of the inside top of the chassis rails (removing some of top leg of C-channel), effectively continuing the inside line of the chassis rail (under camper body) further forward through to where the front of the engine is, then stepping in (see chalk marks). Then strengthening the Chassis with another plate on outside with folded edge to reinstate the 'beam strength' back into the chassis, or adding other folded piece over top extending further rearward and forward (kindof boxing the outside) This would allow the engine to drop down and maintain the current position. Tight set of log-style headers, removable from below should be achievable. FYI, Im an Industrial Designer by trade so drawing up, profile cutting, folding some shit, fabbing and modding the rails doesnt seem a terrible idea to me - but there are obviously rules and my cert man has already advised his 'preference' is for not modding the rails. I feel a CAD model is needed just to communicate my thinking further here.. Option 2 - start hacking out the camper body - this is effectively the area at floor level under the sink - possibly the most useless space in the entire camper. Making a removable section and shifting the motor back far enough (prob 250mm max further rearward of current position or roughly half of the engine under the camper body. Driveshaft gets rather short, as believe it or not the wheelbase of this thing is a tad under 3 metres. This area will need a massage anyway for the trans, so there is some logic in cutting here now and then reinstating removable infrastructure later for trans access etc - regardless of where the engine ends up - ie it would allow us to fully entertain that possibility. Doing this means the engine slots between the rails somewhat easier, but obviously engine access becomes more limited and opening the engine access hatch means the engine wont really be that accessible (prob dipstick, dizzy etc access but little else). And it will look weird - I like the idea of opening that hatch and there she is in all her glory.. Added bonus is there will effectively be a 'Frunk' under the seats where the engine once sat... Option 3 - the oldschool hivemind give me your opinions on my discussion thread - maybe there is something I am missing here. Its hard to communicate how tight it is, hopefully the pics below tell the full story. Be great to hear others thoughts on what is possible here - I am actually also thinking of talking to one of the local Truck Chassis mod dudes too - given this thing is actually just a truck.. Chur.

Its been a while, but i scrounged up some motivation and found some time where one of my other cars didnt need for for once, and cut the floor out of the drivers side. In hindsight, this is how i should've done the other side too. Maybe I will revisit that again one day.

So far, this has been going pretty well. Aside from some problems with cracking on the headers, the car has run pretty well. There's a few tune-based things to tidy up but nothing that really affects the drivability. All the Pioneer stereo gear is now functional. I use a Bluetooth cassette adaptor off Aliexpress to enable me to retain total tape functionality and play tunes from Spotify. It works much better than expected. I also went to town on my cert-spec wheels, as I figured it best look pretty good when I do have to take it for a WOF! Results as below. KP61 Night 21-04-16-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr KP61 Night 21-04-37-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr KP61 Night 21-04-44-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr KP61 Night 21-04-49-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr

So... Diff flange was all fitted up and the driveshaft was fitted and then checked against the instructions from The Driveshaft Shop, and it was too short... It was extended as far as it could go so could not thrust out if required. To say I was disappointed would be an understatement. I had even double checked the measurements on the quote via email before ordering and asked if it took into account the thrusting and they said yes... When building a driveshaft it's a fundamental measurement, to fuck that up time and time again as I had been pre warned shows that they don't have the process and checks and balances in place to ensure the consistent quality of their products. I contacted the original salesman and he was very responsive, he got me to take measurements with driveshaft in place and quickly had a spacer for the rear diff made and shipped out to me at their cost. (luckily the driveshaft was short, if it was to long that would be an interesting discussion...) Once I had the spacer I made up the heat shielding for the front of the driveshaft, the carbon shaft has warnings on how hot it is allowed to get, and also I want to protect the CV joint from getting exposed to to much heat to prolong it's life. I have a new speed sensor on the way as my one is behaving really weird (cutting off the signal at 5000hz), hoping that solves the problem. Next step is get the car out on track again for a shakedown to see if I've improved the way the cooling works and fingers crossed the driveshaft solves the vibration issues.

Well well well, it has been months of no updates on here. So i've got it painted came out alright. i've redone the ignition with an electronic points system which has made a massive difference with starting. i've played around with timing etc seems to be pretty spot on but one of the diaphragms in the carb has a small hole... so no big trips for her yet. low and behold more issues have popped up. Started getting air in the clutch line, rekitted the slave cylinder, replaced the line, kitted the master cylinder. STILL manages to get air in it which leads me to think I'm looking for a new slave cylinder or i've done such a good job and put it back together wrong Joined the local car club over here because who wants to pay $1000 a year in rego for a car just sitting in their shed when it could be $75 I've also made the mistake of purchasing two more vehicles because I didnt think my shed had enough junk in it. i'll no doubt make a quick build and discussion thread for these. 1971 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 1974 Nissan Patrol G60 both in pretty decent shape more so the fj40 has a bit of here and there where as the patrol is still in transit from over east but has mostly been completed already unless i start prodding and poking...

You might want to dial that back about 20% there......

I'm failing to decode what those Facebook guys are saying

I've summarised your post into the questions and will do my best to answer as accurately as I can. This is entirely unofficial advice as there is no documented answers I can fall back on, so this can only be considered a subjective opinion at best. 1) A scratch built vehicle can be made up of any parts, as long as they are automotive parts that meet the relevant requirements. 2) The process for a car made from a pile of parts is that they are nearly always deemed to be scratch-built. It is unlikely that a car made from a collection of parts could be called a modified production vehicle. (also refer to my point about rebirthing stolen vehicles in my previous post) 3) This is a tricky one - it should replicate an existing vehicle but if they were all effectively a unique appearing vehicle, then I think there may be grounds to consider a replica vehicle built using similar construction methods and materials, however it must replicate in appearance and performance to what you would expect from a vehicle at the time. (ie: you can't make a space ship shaped body running a smallblock Chevy on a 1927 Rolls Royce chassis and say it is a Historical Replica because 1927 Rolls Royces were all unique coach built to order) 4) It's easier to explain this one with some scenarios for vehicles with identity - Replacing the body on a vehicle with like for like is a repair and is considered OE production vehicle, (example - fitting an unfucked Hilux body onto a Hilux chassis that has had the body rolled over and squashed) - Modifying the body on a vehicle is a modification that requires certification, and is considered a modified production vehicle, (example - cutting a Corolla station wagon into a ute body) - Fitting a full custom body on a vehicle makes the vehicle a scratch-built vehicle (example - fitting a fibreglass beach buggy body onto a VW beetle floorpan) Almost all vehicles without identity will fall into a scratch-built category unless they successfully apply Alt Docs and the vehicle gains an identity through that process. 5) Suitable information would be a description of the vehicle that your replica is replicating, it should include information covering the full running gear, chassis, construction methods etc alongside with as many images of the vehicle as is possible, pair the same information for your vehicle and we can make a comparison. It does not have to be a rivet for rivet identical, but if we can compare them, see a comparable silhouette, find substantially similar running gear and construction, then there is a possibility it could be accepted as a Historic Replica. Again - this is not official advice, but the best I can provide having sat in on these meetings before where these determinations have been made.

Sounds like a top bloke.

No news on mine. I submitted it on the 26th of September. I've chased it up with 2 calls (3 weeks and 5 weeks after submission, which I think isn't being pushy) and then an email 2 weeks after that. Both calls said "its still being reviewed" and no reply from email (sent Thursday before last, 14 days ago, and got a confirmation saying there is a 10 business day turnaround) So fuck knows what's happening. Zero communication/visibility. I'm just gonna put an old plate on the Ironhead and ride. The $400 fine of getting rolled is actually cheaper and less painfull then trying to do things legally.... Have to play nice too, as it ultimately falls in their hands if you can register it or not. Waiting for the ok before I tell them how appalling their service is... Though have another application for a different bike to submit straight after, so maybe should wait for that one too. If I was that slow and poor at communication and non performant in my job, I'd be fired, not to mention how bad I'd feel for all these people waiting for "the go-ahead" for their pride and joys.

So what everyone has actually being waiting for, the final comparison between Toyota Altezza RS200 3SGE BEAMS and a Honda Accord Euro R K20a engine in the same chassis Still trying to get my hands on a single dyno sheet with the 2 different engines on it. So this will have to do. Modifications/Setup Toyota Altezza RS200 3SGE: 120,000 k's SQ Engineering Quad Throttle adapter plate 4AGE Blacktop throttles 70mm trumpets Combined Piper Cross Filter Stock Injectors SQ Engineering Slim line alternator (smaller Echo alternator) No Power Steering pump or AC Custom header (TRD Copy) to side exit exhaust 2.5" Adrenaline R muffler Link G4+ Storm (Blue) Engine internally stock Lightened flywheel HD Exedy Clutch J160 Gearbox 3" Driveshaft with sliding yoke into gearbox Oil: Castrol 5w40 Rev Limit: 8000rpm Dynoed in 5th gear 1:1. Honda Accord Euro R K20a: 108,000 k's Skunk 2 Ultra Street Intake Manifold 770cc FIC injectors Skunk 2 74mm Throttle Body. 3" intake pipe from pod filter. Custom header to side exit exhaust 2.5" Adrenaline R muffler Stock water pump replaced with EWP Alternator replaced with smaller Honda D15 one. No Power Steering pump or AC Stock Oil Pump and Balance Shafts replaced with ported Type S oil pump. New Timing chain Lightened flywheel HD Exedy Clutch Link G4X XtremeX Honda S2000 AP1 Gearbox 3" Driveshaft with sliding yoke built into shaft as gearbox has flange VTEC 4500rpm Oil: Castrol 5w40 Rev Limit: 9000rpm Dynoed in 5th Gear 1: 0.94076 Same: Tires 54cm Michelin Slicks at 21 PSI, on same Rims Same AE86 Diff (Brakes were changed from stock to AP with knock back) 4.5555 Crown wheel and Pinion. Same Dyno Different: Dyno retarders have changed from 110v to 220v. Results 3SGE : 201hp @7250rpm 173.6 lbft @5150rpm K20a: 206HP @8250rpm 167.9lbft @5300rpm Thoughts I'm a little bit disappointed in final figure, but I think my expectations were to high. You have to take all the HP figures that everyone posts with a grain of salt. Especially anything from the UK who like to give made up flywheel figures when they dyno there cars on a rolling road... Changing from a front wheel drive to rear wheel drive setup definitely has more drivetrain loss, from what I've read a factory stock S2000 AP1 with 240/250hp at the flywheel dynos 200hp at the wheels. Also a lot of people show "stock internals" figures which include changing cams etc. So the power figure is in the right ballpark really for the modifications (stock K20a has 220ps at flywheel) as rear wheel drive. Looking at some of the NZ figures I have seen, the engine would probably get quite a gain (20 to 30hp) from a set of drop in cams (no other valve train changes) But if you ignore the single figure and look at the dyno sheet it pretty much makes 200hp from 6700 rpm all the way to 8700 rpm which is a very significant power band. So overall, it's a good improvement. Shakedown So I then got it out to the track and managed 4 laps before the gearbox lost most of it's oil when a bolt came loose. Luckily I was going fairly slowly so no internal damage done hopefully. However a bigger issue is a massive driveline vibration. Plan A: Driveshaft is getting balanced at 5000 rpm (it does 9500 rpm in 6th) Plan B: CV Front joint on the same shaft, or a replacement driveshaft. Driveshaft is to short to go 2 piece and we think the angle of the engine and gearbox is impacting the universal joints. However aftermarket CV joints for these are supposedly not very good. So currently looking at options. Car definitely felt like it was pulling really hard, but with so few laps, and me just making sure everything was working, not a good indication of final result. Videos: First 2 Laps: Second 2 Laps (where it dropped the oil): Flyby (Potato Cam):

Bought 3 more wheels to match the pair i had. Cheers to dave for those. They need a good clean up, some wider lips would be ideal once funds allow. And having 5 wheels so the spare matches too will be epic

Bit slow on updates, drove the shit out of this over summer and loved having it legal again. Probably chewed through nearly a dozen tyres Because I just can't resist a cheeky burnout The new exhaust has been absolutely ruined in the mid section thanks to all the speedbumps in whangarei... yay But it's been parked up again as a water line burst little to my knowledge and it got cooked. At this point it still ran and drove but used water so I went and ripped a classic 5th gear skid for the boys at a birthday party and now it really doesn't want to run haha The ideas are flowing for my options right now but aunty westpac says otherwise