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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/11/22 in all areas

  1. New bracket position/shape/etc looks good. Good bonnet clearance. Printing the other half then I'll need to go get another 4 plugs for the bosch injectors and wire up all 8. Then come up with some extra bits to make sure it's all secure and sitting at the correct angle.
    23 points
  2. Stripped the block this morning. Looks super clean for 300 thousand Bearings look a bit worn but not fucked I'll need to do a bit of 'porting' on the oil drains on the vtec head so it matches up with the 2L bottom end
    6 points
  3. Thought I'd see what I could do about the nasty scratches in the stainless steel window surround so gave it a tickle with some 240 grit and then moved through with some 600 and 800 grit before a final go with some 1200 grit. Slapped a bit of Autosol about the place and it looks heaps better. There are still signs of the two deepest scratches, but I didn't want to push my luck any further, so I'll live with those. Luckily they are on the inside of the frame so wont be that noticeable. Luckily the passenger surround is undamaged.
    6 points
  4. I got the 2nd half printed and bodged it all together with a sea of cable ties and shitty wiring. But there are still bonnet clearance issues that I didnt notice earlier, caused by one particular crossmember bit on the bonnet frame. It ends up hitting on the center section that joins the two halves of the outer rails. So not really possible to use these trumpets unless I tip the motor over a bit or something. I'm thinking it might actually work to mount the outer fuel rail onto the radiator crossmember instead. But this means any future plans of fitting an airbox wont work. I could mount the injectors in through the side of the bellmouths instead, from the bottom. This would certainly make it less of a visual abomination, and also mean I can take up more of the space with runner length if needed. But I'd like to see how it goes with a straight shot down the runners, even if just temporarily. Also I wired up the other 4 injector drivers again, but after the previous fix I've still got the same issue. If I put the injector plug on number 4, it holds the injector open. Doing some googling, this is typical behaviour of a failed mosfet. So I'll see if Dad is able to take another look, otherwise I'll send it down to Link for repair. So a bit of a bummer for a few reasons, but will get something sorted. One thing I noticed though, from just giving the car a bit of an idle area tune on the outer injectors only. Even with just idle fuel, the outside of the throttles gets super cold. Like 3-5 degrees kinda thing. Then when you turn the motor off, they slowly come back up to temp again. Interesting! I wonder what it will be like after a full throttle run, maybe this is where the benefit comes from. (if anything) I'm also incredibly surprised at how well it can idle running on just outer injectors as well.
    3 points
  5. Much like the steering rack, I had disassembled 3 steering columns all in various states and all slightly different. One column shaft was longer then the others, one column and housing has absolutely been munched by the steering lock mechanism and none really shared the exact same internals, with different springs and spacers etc. I used a good short column and the best housing and had them painted. I started to reassemble it last night but hit a road bump. The new top bush, which replaces the older style bearing, is too narrow in the ID to turn freely on the column shaft. The bottom replacement works fine. I'll need to trim down the OD of the shaft or increase the ID in the bush. Even with grease and vice grips it didn't want to turn. old bearing and new bush
    2 points
  6. This project is super cool! Love the parts bin aspect of it.
    2 points
  7. Engine bay well underway A few badges lights windows, chrome etc fitted too
    2 points
  8. With the rear panel being modified to take late model mark II tail lights I doubt the matching garnish that houses number plate and number plate lights would fit so I'm going to take the opportunity to attempt something similar to this Inspired by Instagram user alkku_ Mine will be a bit harder due to inner inward edges on x6 tail lights having a beveled edge not 90° with the top bottom. Hoping to use two spare lights and slice them in the middle and get the bevel right on outer then glue them up
    2 points
  9. Out of interest I compression tested the 4G15 fully expecting it to be stuffed. It has 349,000km's on the odometer and is leaking out out of the rear main seal so much I need a collector tray. Took the first spark plug out and thankfully it is very well lubricated and submerged in oil: The other 3 were dry. And to my surprise it has really good compression...like WAY higher than I thought. My compression tester usually reads quite low. 240psi?! Across all 4! Then I remembered the previous owner said that the owner before him had changed the headgasket. I wonder if the head has been skimmed to hell? Otherwise, it runs super quietly. All it really needs is some cam cover gaskets and that rear main seal and it'd be a healthy engine. It seem far too healthy for a 350,000km engine. Maybe it's not the original one? In other news, I have possibly found a Mivec head if it all works out. Then I'll probably get a short block from Pick a Part to put some aftermarket rods and pistons in.
    2 points
  10. Made up some seat adaptors Then put on some John Denver and headed out to the lake. Engine temp was pretty easy to regulate, just setting the dump valve to bleed a bit off kept the gauge showing about 70 degrees. If i slowed down, the temp crept up until the thermostat opened. So i think if i can get a colder thermostat - we'll be onto a winner. On the whole, everything went well. No major leaks, no big faults, just a smooth half hour of boating in some bloody cold water. Did have a small fire scare when the paint I'd used on the exhausts decided it didn't like being hot.
    2 points
  11. Impulse buy off FB marketplace over here in the states. I believe this to be a 67’ or 68’ S37. While searching for info I came across h4nd’s Fellow thread so joined up to ask some questions and he suggested I do a thread. Well, here we go. Truck is pretty damn complete but of course has rust issues. It’s pretty much the floorboards and bed floor, rest is not bad. Good glass. Supposedly *ran went parked* but that was who knows how many years ago. Doesn’t steer (sheared rag joint) doesn’t roll (tires shot) and doesn’t stop (hydraulics froze). I’ve got the brakes torn down and am in the process of rebuilding the system and tires are on the way. She’s a hot mess!
    1 point
  12. Yeah. Today's cruising oil temp was 110 rising to 135 under load. That seems a little spicy
    1 point
  13. yoeddynz sent me to check out your thread... The dizzy engines really aren't too bad in my experience, I've had no failures of dizzy or throttle body (touch wood) and depending how far you're going to push it the dizzy seems up to the task. I also used to think the cg10de small gearbox would be nice but my cg13de box fits and frankly I think the ratios are pretty ideal except 1st is too short but the others are pretty good on 10 inch wheels 3,200rpm at 100km/hr and 3,500? at 110km/hr... I forget but it's perfectly happy sitting at 110km for hours on end and not loud or uncomfortable. I've a sparse build thread here: https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/253043-spot-the-micra-mini/# Feel free to ask any questions or message etc. BTW pretty sure you can use the cga3de crank in a cg13de to make a stroker then there's options for pistons out to 73.4mm to almost get a 1400cc
    1 point
  14. Trip to wash world to blast the worse of the oil sludge off Onto the healing bench in my 'clean room' Rangi de glaze Yes I know I should mic everything and measure it blah blah. If I don't measure it I don't know how bad it is so I can live happily in denial. My theory is it was running well enough and not making bad noises before so it'll be good enough to go back together as it was. Vtec oil pump fitted The aliexpress oil feed kit is as good as the manifold and valve compressor tool Somehow the oil is meant to magic its way through that fitting on the block. Then through that fitting and into the head The fitting also seperates the un filtered oil and filtered oil with fresh air and hopes so doesn't instill much confidence at all. What did I expect for $50... Glad I figured it out now rather than once everything was installed and on startup
    1 point
  15. https://www.pantera-electronics.com/epbcontroller.htm I've found this controller. Currently working on if we can get it to meet cert specs
    1 point
  16. A Google search I did after learning of them said they can improve fuel economy too. Given on rock auto they're a quarter the price of what youd pay for iridium's here, 8m thinking why the fuck not?
    1 point
  17. As I dig into this I will try and keep this post updated with information on parts as I come across them. *Front wheel bearings: Inner NSK 320/22. Outer Timken A4059 *Front spindle castle nut: 12mm x 1.5 *Front/rear brake shoes: 170mm x 30mm. I couldn’t find anything available this small so sent them out to be relined. If they were 180mm there were some possibilities. *Wheel studs: 10mm x 1.25 x 30mm *Wheel bolts (bolting wheel halves): 8mm x 1.25 x 16mm *Tires: 145r10. Using Falken SN807 *Tubes: Got tubes for Subaru 360 with 90 degree stems. *Front wheel cylinders: 7/8”. Using MGB/GT cylinders with minor mods to the backing plate. These use a clip rather than nuts to mount. Raybestos WC37354. Still working on how I want to convert to the 3/8-24 thread on these. Decided to use 45* banjo adapters. Needed to shorten the bolts I got due to bottoming out before tight. *Rear wheel cylinders: 5/8”. Using early 70’s Subaru cylinders. Direct bolt on. EIS EW100920. *Brake master cylinder: 11/16”. Used rubber bits from Datsun B110 brake master kit. Have not verified it works yet. *Clutch master cylinder: 5/8”. Used rubber bits from Datsun 520 clutch master kit. Have not verified it works yet. *Clutch slave: 3/4”. Used rubber bit from Datsun 520 master kit. Have not verified it works yet. *Brake/clutch pedal pads: used pads for Datsun Z *Brake line threads: 10mm x 1.0 *Converting rubber hydraulic hoses to -3 braided SS Front 18” Rear 16” Clutch 9” *Steering coupler: used VW type 1. (Not direct fit)
    1 point
  18. I couldn't find my bonnet cable clip so pinched it off the blue van and made a replacement. Could have used a cable tie or p clip but because it's visible I didn't want it to look too out of place. I'll have the old black one stripped and anodized.
    1 point
  19. Then started a side quest for some reason, so that’s probably going to chew up most of my time for the next few months, Shit Nissans is a mental disorder I think.
    1 point
  20. Thanks to the great ideas here I had a new plan of attack. I drilled a hole beside the tap and cleaned the area. I could see through the new hole that the nut had 3 factory welds holding it on. Must have been very fatigued/rusted because it didnt require much force for it break away. Tried to plug weld/tac the nut on and managed to get a strong enough tac to take the tap out. I decided I wanted two different spots of weld on the nut. Unfortunately the first weld broke off when drilling the second hole but thankfully I had a screw in place just in case. New hole, new weld. Accidently welded too much of the screw so it required quite a bit of cutting and grinding to remove it in one piece. Required a lot of concentration to avoid the raised stamped areas in the panel. Ended up nicking the top coat once. Cleaned the area again with the die grinder, put in another screw but this time insulated it with copper wiring which worked a treat. Ground it all flat and this time it looked much better. The weld had penetrated and filled in the holes. Best part yet, the bracket covers the entire worked area. Easy for these small jobs to chew up time. Just need to keep looking at the big picture.
    1 point
  21. Have wet sanded about half of the car with 400 grit. Coming out good. Took a break from breaking my back to have a go at removing the weld in the exhaust manifold flange. Tried a few methods but a tungsten bit and a rotary tool ended up working best, still a bit of a slog. I really rate these cheap Ozito rotary tools, I've worked it hard and it is still good. I've had TWO dremels just stop working randomly, not even working them hard. Opened up port versus the one with the weld still blocking it:
    1 point
  22. About 20 years ago my pop gave me a multitool. Said he had it for so long he can't remember. Had a nice leather pouch and all. Well it got used and abused, rolled bolled and arseholed. Until the point it was rusted solid on my workbench. Old boy passed away this morning, so i thought i should restore the tool he left me. Keep it going for another generation. Found it on a shelf down the arseend of the bench so here it is. Will derust, descale and free up before deciding the next step. This is very old and i am on the drunk end of the drinking scale. So bear with me. Admin feel free to delete my ramblings...
    1 point
  23. Overdue update to seal this up. Found the sheath in the shed, was dried out and crumbly. Managed to revive it partly by applying half a dozen coats of leather boot grease. The old boy made a kwila stand for one of my motorbike models back in the day, when i track down what box my model collection got relegated to i plan on repurposing it as a base for this. How it has turned out.
    1 point
  24. The “ever lovely Mrs sr2” and I headed up North to the batch for the recent long weekend, the fishing was an improvement on the New Year. (It would be bloody hard to be worse; see the Jan 18, 22 post). On my return I was shocked to see that in my absence Rigamortice had been blatantly and deliberately emitting the nasty horrible dangerous carbon laden CO2 gas, (that our dear leader the "PC goddess of fertility and cultural sensitivity" has been repetitively warning us about).......... to the atmosphere! Still showing total faith in our “transparent” government (in these turbulent times) I was overwhelmed and riddled with guilt as to the long term effect Rigamortice’s senseless selfish act would have on climate change, (it used to be called global warming – but it didn’t get hot!). In desperation to restore our lost carbon credits and head off an imminent climate emergency I decided to “give it the Greta” and acquired an E-Vehicle. Being Oldschool (i.e. 75 oldschool years old) Rigamortice insisted that I hand in my man-card immediately………..begin the public humiliation….! Thankfully after a few medicinal Wild Turkeys, Rigamortice and I devised a cunning and fiendishly clever way of containing the evil fermenting concoction, preventing any further release of the nasty horrible climate changing CO2 gas…..What could possibly go wrong!
    1 point
  25. HQ is actually 5x120.65 / 5x 4.75” That extra 0.65 is enough to snap your wheel studs.
    1 point
  26. Couple of photos from the Trademe listing. 1981 Toyota Cressida RX60 It's had a full panel and paint with all the door jambs and everything done as well as underside. JZX81 steering rack mounts and engine mount towers have been grafted onto GX60 engine crossmember and 81 rack fitted. S13 front coilovers, hubs and castor rods have been fitted up front, I'm just having some brackets made up to locate castor rods onto factory cressida body mounts Ae86 coilovers have been fitted to the rear with the E series solid rear still there. It's had a late model chaser sedan front installed and late model mark II tail lights have been grafted on. There's a 2JZGE VVTI with the gte covers fitted, W55 and a flywheel has been located to manual convert the motor.
    1 point
  27. Much better. Just got to linish the welds and trim that edge. The other side jacking point has a reinforcing square around the hole... I doubt I'll ever use that jacking hole ever, let alone enough to dent the area around it... But if I don't add the reinforcing square, it won't match the other side....
    1 point
  28. One thing I had previously noticed was the lack of a shift indicator light. I had assumed that the whole fitting was AWOL. A replacement fitting goes for $130 ... gulp. Luckily with the shifter surround removed I was able to pull on the electrical wires that were disappearing into the bowels of the shifter and managed to fish out the light ... winner. The earth wire had broken somewhere along the line and some muppet had had a go at fixing it ... fail .... and hadn't even bothered to tape up the joints ... bigger fail. Anyhoo I soldered the wire properly and chucked a bit of heat shrink on to neaten it up. Test showed still no light, but it was just a blown globe, so that is now sorted.
    1 point
  29. Mustang disc and caliper on a hilux diff Approx 300mm disc Approx 175mm axle center to outer part of caliper Approx 60mm clearance to a 20" wheel Bracket is pretty basic, flat plate
    1 point
  30. RE spark plug socket, I believe a pressed steel socket is the go to that mitsi peeps have in their tool box. Like so
    1 point
  31. Out of interest I checked the bearings and they all look ok? Took a piston out and no damage to the ring lands etc. The rods are TINY! Also interesting that it has piston oil squirters built into the rods which is pretty cool. So I'm not sure why this engine had it's sump taken off and oil pick up removed and left off? Maybe one of the other rods is bent? Doesn't really matter though. Just interesting to see.
    1 point
  32. The analogue VU meters are alive! Because they're modern, their LED backlighting is super effective. Each of them sits beside its corresponding magic eye, which of course was a silly decision, because it highlights that the magic eyes are even more laggy and unresponsive than the analogue meters. I've just basically got some electric stuff spasming half a step behind the beat. Why did I jam the analogue meters into valve shrouds? I don't know.... if the magic eye VU meter box already looked a bit like a robot face, now I've made it worse by giving him some bazookas. Everything is just temporarily hooked up directly to its respective power supply at the moment. Once I have all the elements at least to this point (only a few are still yet to be finished and livened for the first time), the next step will be to re-route power to the deflector shields re-run all the power via the control panel.
    1 point
  33. Put some hours on the boat this summer. On my last outing, was trying to catch some other boats so had the throttle wide open for 10 mins straight. 5200rpm full noise. After backing off, the oil pressure plummeted and the engine tried to have a little soft seize. Coolant temp never got silly and oil temp is the one gauge I never finished hooking up. Hand on the sump told me it was fucking hot. After cooling it off and going easy for the rest of the day, it was ok. The next weekend, I went out again and had 100psi idle oil pressure rising to off the gauge at cruise speed. So this weekend, decided to have a look at the relief valve. Oil was pretty grot. The relief valve lives behind the oil filter housing in the middle circular bore. While I had it apart, tapped a home for my temp sender. And because it's a 3.8, the gasket was $8 and available easily. The relief valve had some minor scoring on it and some schmoo particles, I'm not convinced that was the problem but polished it up and reassembled. Ran it up to temp, I'll reserve judgement until it's been out on the water again but seems alright for now. I think a little modine style oil cooler would be a good idea. Kinda keen to build a new boat. I think this one has taught me enough to know exactly what I want and how I want it. But I also like not spending money.
    1 point
  34. Found a 4g92 Mivec engine with apparent spun bearing. It doesn't even have the sump but the main caps are still there. Only want the head and intake so bought it and got it sent down to Wellington. It's missing the Mivec cam cover trim thing unfortunately. The cam design is really cool. I have recently learned that MIVEC is not MIVEC. The early stuff like this is basically VTEC where there is a 'race' cam lobe that is activated with oil pressure and a solenoid. I saw someone claiming they made 200kw atw on 12psi with a 4g93 with this head, don't know what turbo but it seems like it is easy to make power with a head that breaths well. The GSR 1.8 head apparently is not a good breathing head. The later Mivec like the Evo 9 is variable cam timing (I am pretty sure anyway), so less 'aggressive' I guess. Also the 4g69 etc I am pretty sure is just variable cam timing rather than vtec style cam lobs like this. So it looks like the 4g63 never had what I would call 'real' mivec, only variable cam timing. I'm hoping this 4g92 head will act like those Honda Vtec turbo's which make big power because they basically have a high lift cam profile in the higher rpms. Really interesting design. The cams sit in a separate cradle. and the head has two halves. Here it is removed: And the lower half of the head, it's actually quite clean, the photo's make it looks like it is all coked up but it's just a textured casting: It has super long spark plug tubes because the head is really tall due to the cam cradle design. Weirdly a normal spark plug socket won't fit, the tube is crimped about half way down (maybe due to assembly pushing in the tubes?), I had to grind down a spare one to be thinner walled. The head is REALLY tall, this is a big 550ml crc can next to it and the head is still taller: Valves a bit carboned up but otherwise look good: Not that it matters but the cylinder walls still have cross hatch markings: Really high compression factory pistons!
    1 point
  35. Welcome back to my art project, where I thought I was aiming for retro.... Today it's looking more like sci-fi futurism. You can see I've put a mirror on one inner wall of the radio cabinet enclosure, to give the illusion of space. I've polished up a bunch of metal valve shrouds and illuminated them from within using neon bulbs, to symbolise the glow of an actual valve. I've incorporated an LED spotlight which is faulty and flickers in an atmospheric way. On the right of the above photo, a pair of 'icicle' Christmas lights chase up and down inside the case of an electrified bug zapper. This both conceals them and helps them cast shadows. I've embedded strings of LEDs into the floor which chase off into the distance, deliberately laid out to give forced perspective. Unfortunately you're not really tricked into thinking the interior of the radio cabinet is impossibly large like the TARDIS - it just looks like a cross between Tron and a penny arcade machine. Here's a piece of interior decoration in the light of day. I cut out and folded a metal box, mainly to give me somewhere to house another moving coil meter. Then I wrecked the meter by accidentally drilling into its internal mechanism when making a hole for a backlight bulb. I managed to half fix it, just enough for it to mostly work. Atop the box, a valve shroud is hiding the light fitting. This either looks like a rubbish bin, or a steam train chimney on a boiler. On the side of the box, there's a vent grille which exists so that I can stick another neon inside and have the glow coming out. Everything has to glow. Also, everything has to hurry up. I've only got another 8 months until my ten-year deadline for this project, and I'm looking forward to kicking back with my first ever glass of Absinthe and tripping out to the pretty lights.
    1 point
  36. Waterpump swapped back for one that dad fixed. But ive not addressed any root cause. I just now know how to fix it. Also, this made me smugface
    1 point
  37. The garage build is coming along nicely. I think I had posted up a pic of the concrete pad on the shed thread a short while back. We have been building it as quick as we could in between other property jobs/customers work. Luckily its been a 6 week or more run of perfect clear sky days up until two days ago when the skies opened up and so far it all seems dry and very cosy. Pics explain the build better. It has been built on a super tight budget. We had hoped to keep the whole build under $5000 but its going to be just shy of $6000 inc the ply inside and benches etc. The concrete came in at $1100 plus paying a friend $300 to do the pour and that magical floaty finishing bit with the upside down helicopter thing. I was going to hire one and have a go at doing the whole job myself but I knew I'd fuck something up. Its probably never a thing I'll need to do again so I was happy to sit back, drink some beers and watch someone else use their experience to not screw up a job. We bought new iron and clearlight for the roof- again, something not to piss about with. The rest of the build used new surplus timber we were given by a builder friend and old iron we had salvaged from various places over the last few years. The window was gifted by @Willdat? and most of the interior ply came from the shed we pulled down. Pics.. I ordered extra concrete because no one wants to run out midway through a pour. So I made a load of forms and we ended up with heaps of paving slabs which will get used for a glass house build later on... Framework... Roof. Went for heaps of overhang on each side because why not. The old shed roof was perfect for the back wall and there was just enough of it. Already complete with patina.. We are doing what we can to try and build a garage that looks somewhat like its been there for decades. Its going to have a sign written facade above the front along with a small iron verandah. This old iron siding was perfect for the look. The alloy window is going to be painted to try best to hide the fact its alloy. Got a load of Douglas Fir timber from a friend around the corner who I had done some welding work on his van.. Ship lapped which had the added bonus of creating a load of kindling... Made some old style bi-fold doors... Had a solid old, but brand new, and very stained wooden door we had bought years ago for $20. Finally we have something to use it on. It needed gluing back together.. Altogether now.. Imp for scale... We'd bought new gauged and treated rafters because made sense. But they are pink. So Hannah painted them white for that old garage look... We went to the local tip and fished through the old paint deposit bin. Some contractors had just dropped off a whole load of paint, some brand new. Jackpot!!!... Let there be colours! Hannah sorted through them all.. Then painted walls... We made some benches etc yesterday and finished them off this morning while the rain poured down outside. Its really feeling like a good proper useful garage now... Pic of benches getting oiled... That's where its up to now. We've got some treated plywood for the signboards. The treated uprights are in place ready to fit them to. Not yet fixed on names or style but I'll just make something up as I go along. I have some funny sign ideas I might try out. Quite keen to try and make the paint and sign writing look really old and sun damaged, faded like. Keen on any suggestions on how best to do this - that washed out look. Ha- the sun here will no doubt blast the paint anyway. The front timber siding and doors will hopefully go silver in short time and look older too. I'm now super looking forward to moving all the accumulated useful stuff junk that has been taking up space in the workshop, along with many bicycles in the garage and hopefully getting rid of some stuff too. We will make a planter box for under that window out of some old hardwood telephone pole sections that were left on the land when we bought it. Would be a good place for suculants etc because all day sun but sheltered from any frosts. Oh and here's a short video I made with a Go pro I had bought cheap a while back. First time I have ever used one. I thought to take a vid of the quad bike going up the main track to the ridgetop for a beer in the sunset up there. Its a link to instagram because loading it onto youtube with our internet speeds seems to ruin the quality. https://www.instagram.com/tv/CbmRbILrDE3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
    1 point
  38. Sanding like a beach. Last few low spots to fill last night, feel like maybe I'm going overboard a bit but on the other hand I can't bring myself to not fill these low spots after all this work. Front is looking good now. There were a couple of low spots in the centre which is now good. Next will be to prime it again with a more thinned down mix. Then maybe wet sand 400 grit, depends how well the primer goes on.
    1 point
  39. As an advocate of small wrong wheel drive cars with silly power Im sure you will easily get a 13 with some good traction. I don't think my EP71 runs much more power than you and its in the high 11s.
    1 point
  40. FYI. Part d is a ball-ache if you get a flat battery. My wife's toyota got a flat battery in the drive way, boxing in all the other vehicles. Me: "No worries, I'll just push it out of the way cos we are in a hurry to go out in the Jeep" Toyota: "No you fucking won't"
    1 point
  41. Motor and box in for good now, plus a number of other parts, including the new HPCd extractors
    1 point
  42. Good day fitting up suspension brakes diff etc
    1 point
  43. I opened up the petrol tank which has been sitting around for awhile. To my suprise it was like brand new inside. Cleaned it inside and out, and installed. The fuel filler neck was a bit odd. It didn't quite sit flush to the side of the van. I ended up removing some of the floor with a die grinder to lower the fuel filler and get it all lined up. Potentially it was this poor from factory. New gasket, a lick of paint and its done. From the outside, the fuel cap covers the entire filler neck face. I went so far as to even replace the fuel cap screws which hold the locking tongue on from self tappers to stainless caps.
    1 point
  44. its worth it though. when all the painting is finished and you can stand back and admire. then you get to take all the masking off and see all the places where you missed and there's overspray all over everything. ahhh, happy days.
    1 point
  45. Tried again and got this about 12 hours later: Sweet! A couple of problems with the print quality and lifting but good enough for a test fit and to see it I need to change the angles etc. It lines up with the ITB ports perfectly! Fck yeah!
    1 point
  46. Back to 3d modelling, Fusion 360 is great but man I was pulling my hair out a bit with stuff just not doing what it was supposed to, it's totally the software and not me being a novice... I have some screenshots of the modelling but on the other computer. Here are some photo's of the finished test print (one half of the manifold). First test print a couple of hours in: Storm happens and takes out power to 3500 houses, so my print stopped. Just left it and when power came back on a few hours later it said it stopped unexpectedly and do I want to continue the job? I thought, why not give it a go its only a test print. The first problem was the head had melted a blob where is stopped so I snipped it off and then it moved to the outer edge and just started printing again! Came back a while later to this lol
    1 point
  47. Went out with @brotherd to test his new motor. I made it half hour before the bad noises started. I took some bits apart and think it might be this? I guess I'll fix that and see if the noise goes away. Happy it didn't fire a flex plate and driveshaft through the bottom of the boat.
    1 point
  48. The boat never had a thermostat housing and instead came with a plate with a 5/8 double hose outlet on it. This flowed directly into the exhaust manifolds with no restriction. I had blocked off one hose and tried running the other down to the lower radiator hose but that was no good since the water flowed backwards to my intention due to the pressure difference between the cold side and hot. So off to pick a part! Standard commodore thermostat housing cut down and tapped for 3/4 bsp. The 90 degree bend puts the water hose nicely over the coil packs so it fits under the engine cover. This then dumps overboard behind the driver seat just out of reach to avoid accidental burns. Couldn't get a 60 degree thermostat so the plan is to run at 80 in fresh water with the thermostat regulating the temp, then in salt or nasty water I can just open the manual dump valve from the heater hose outlet which bypasses the thermostat to keep the engine temp below 60. Or if anyone knows where I can get a lower temp 44mm thermostat -let me know. Was wondering what latches to use for the engine cover when a Ute came into work needing a new canopy door... Also added a flushing port to the cooling system using a dishwasher tap and a valve to stop the flushing water just going back out the sand trap. The valve handle is oriented so you cannot close the engine cover with the cooling system shut off. Next mission is to mount the seats and bolt a couple new rollers to the trailer
    1 point
  49. Step 4. Eat chocolate caramel tart the wife made while i was drinking in the shed/looking for tool.
    1 point
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