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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/04/22 in all areas

  1. In other news Tom the previous owner of our Mustang was up our way on a caravan trip with his family and stopped in for a visit. When we bought the Mustang the deal was all done remotely so we had only ever talked over the phone. It was great finally meeting him and his family. Great people and we shared a good few Mustang related yarns. He shared some photos of the Mustang provided by the owner before him. These were taken either just before it left the USA or shortly after it arrived here in Straya. I would love to know whether the Nevada license plate is the real deal or one of those novelty plates that you can buy in the US. Nice to see it sporting its original wheels and hubcaps. Wish I had them. The paint colour looks so different out in the sunlight compared to all of my photos which have been taken under the shade of our carport.
    9 points
  2. Put doort chamber thingy on and fitted fitted throttle cable. Installed torque converter bolts and cover. Connected battery and no sparks or smoke Plugged in the 'faulty' ecu I got out of the bin to test https://i.imgur.com/JtmWgEP.mp4 That's a good sign Auto ecu time Odo turns over (after its surgery) , speedo works no cel. Only hiccup is the rad fan is on constantly, as is the ac compressor That should be a diagnose/fix. Just need to install the shifter and gear indicator wiring/inhibitor switch
    8 points
  3. But I didn't like the look of this. Did some cutting and it was double plated. So cut it all out. Lots of gouges from who ever was in there last. I decided to fill them with weld because the jacking point bracket and the back is not being accessible because the box section is behind it, made patching the area not feasible.
    5 points
  4. I used as little as possible of the vent shape because it was a bit thinner. Some more paint where the spot welds aren't. Done.
    4 points
  5. After smoko the courier arrived with a box full of Mustang goodness. Enough bits and bobs to refurbish the insides of both doors. Yummy.
    4 points
  6. I needed to remove the front fender badges and rear quarter panel "fins" so that Grant can do the paint blending. Getting the rear fins off meant pulling out the back seat and rear side panels, so I figured I'd do a bit of archaeology at the same time. Lifted the carpets to find some pretty solid floor pans apart from someone having done a half arsed "restoration" sometime in the past. I'll clean things up and give the pans some decent rust protection before final reassembly.
    4 points
  7. 3 points
  8. And then... I know it's not really ideal to be painting over the existing surface rust. But some Zinc It has got to be better than nothing at all. I'll shoot some penetrol and cavity wax in there once it's painted. I'm assuming epotec epoxy primer won't stick to the penetrol.... but I want to use something that will creep into all the seams (that 100% will have rust in them) before I seal over them with epoxy.
    3 points
  9. I managed to chuck some colour on the door inners over the weekend and Mrs Flash and I spent yesterday fitting and aligning both doors. Took a few goes to get things as best as we can. The factory gaps were never that good to start with and the fact that the car is fitted with a repro right front fender doesn't help either, but it's good enough for a daily driver. I've assembled just enough to get the car driveable and it's now it's just a case of waiting for Grant to get a gap to do his magic paint blending tricks. Few photos of the interim result.
    3 points
  10. Its been a while, but i scrounged up some motivation and found some time where one of my other cars didnt need for for once, and cut the floor out of the drivers side. In hindsight, this is how i should've done the other side too. Maybe I will revisit that again one day.
    2 points
  11. Progress......maybe?? Well the rear axle/springs are all in and torqued up, as are the front hubs........and she has some wheels on..... But I can't drop her onto the front wheels - the offset is all wrong and the tyres are touching the strut so I need to sort some different wheels for now ha ha. There is some good poke on the rear wheel, maybe some room for more with the flares on. BUT the rear wheels are not centred in the arch......Is this a MAJOR? My first thought was maybe an over reaction?? "Shit the front mounts are too far forward from the new floor being swapped in"....has anyone experienced this?? As per my manual I torqued everything up while it was on the jacks.....would this cause the issue? Oh boy....hopefully not a major!!
    2 points
  12. I did a typo here.... 285 is just silly... yes its 235 I did have it up for sale on a whim and one interested party, decided I was having a moment of sillyness and sticked with it.
    2 points
  13. Not much to report other than did a lot of small things, old leaky hoses fixed, coolant resiviour mounted in only available space, better radiator brackets, test drives/skids (on indusrtial area roads), and further cert tests, still got some brake and reverse lights to sort, and some bushings but getting close!
    2 points
  14. So being in a bit of a holding pattern at the moment, I decided to tackle a small job that has been on the list for a while. The Strayan front rego plate was too long to fit into the factory recess in the front valance. So the PO had bent the corners of the plate to fit. Didn't sit well with my OCD so I built a little spacer out of some aluminium angle that I had lying about. Before and after pics to show what a sad life I lead. Front bumper is off until paint has been blended. Not the best photos, but hopefully you get the idea. Thanks for looking.
    2 points
  15. Dizzy time. Had a cheap China housing that the timing was out or something was wrong with it New rotor and new ish cap and its (hopefully) good to go.
    2 points
  16. Got Impatient/bored with work today around 3pm and wandered out into the workshop, decided to poke it in the hole. No amount of tape-measury can prepare you for the shear girth of this thing. You think you have room until you are trying to jam a 4V into something. Fuck me there is some thickness there. Chassis needs to be chopped....... actually at this stage fuck knows, time to talk to the cert man about what options we have. I havent fit the cab back over it to see what wriggle room we have, but suffice to say it needs to either come up (unsure if possible without losing the middle seat...), or the top edge of the chassis rail needs some massaging. Either way its tighter than tight thing. It looks fucking cool in there, I really hope I can make it work. If I cant Im turning it into a caravan and towing it with a T-bucket fashioned from the remains of the cab with the motor in it - its the only logical maneuver The way I saw it in my head was I would remove Cab, engine would drop in, sit perfectly where I wanted it and the factory mounts lined up.. I may not only be a cunt, but an unreasonable one. Watch this space I guess, the next bits become infinitely more difficult and time consuming...
    2 points
  17. Decided to stop feeling sorry that this is tucked away and get to work on it some more... Its always been a smokey beast... have pulled the injectors to get them re-tipped. The nozzles did look pretty bad Getting these off to treat for some new shoes. 285/70-16 is what the landy barrys say I should be going for. How long ago did Goodyear make these here...?
    2 points
  18. Milestone! Chassis is off the rotisserie! I finished RE doing the seam sealer and underseal. Turns out the underseal has two variants - water based and solvent based. Anyhoo, moving on..... I did want to get it on its wheels again this weekend but one of the handbrake brackets has broken off one of the leafs so I will get a spare welded on this week. I also need to get a torque wrench for the front ball joints as they are locked away under the RCA's/steering arms. So - plans are: All torqued up front subframe Repaired hand brake cable mount Mounted rear end Front hubs On Wheels!!
    2 points
  19. Yup I missed the hybrid part in the title of that link and at the bottom of the std motobatt features page
    1 point
  20. Am booked for my first meeting with my certifier to see my Riley for the first time on Thursday. We are approaching it as a Scratch-Built Historic Replica build. To be classed as that you need it verified by the VCC who give it a classification (C5 in this case) and issue a VIC card but they won't do that until the car is basically finished. Of course the certifier is wanting to see it being built. I have asked the VCC to clarify this is actually the process but they haven't replied yet. The certifier is happy to proceed but warns that I have to be sure it will be possible to get the VCC classification or else it could be a lot of time and money wasted. It should be fine as it is historically accurate and period correct but having to build the whole car before knowing if you can get it through seems a weird way to do things. It seems all or nothing, no provisional approvals or process to follow. For the LVVTA part it seems it is quite a different process for scratch built vs modified production then different again for a historic replica which is basically a scratch built copy of an existing car type but with period correct parts. Should be interesting whatever happens. I will finish building the car regardless. Anyone know anything about ash framed coachwork? My knowledge of timber is not much more than knowing you can't weld it (but I am learning)! Simon
    1 point
  21. The cooling system is gonna take a few revisions to get spot on I expect, I'll put it together with what i've got and see what it needs before spending money on new bits. Things I don't know, will it need a bigger rad?, will the bike waterpump cope?, will I be able to get all the air out? etc etc The stock setup has two hoses running through a tunnel in the floor to the radiator up front, the hot side goes through the heater matrix first then a bypass thermostat before the rad, there is also a header tank in the frunk which takes an air bleed from the thermostat on the engine, this runs up the c-pillar through the roof channel, down the a-pillar then into the header tank. Interestingly it has no fan on the radiator, the heater fan performs this duty as all the hot water runs through it anyway. I'm mostly replicating the stock setup, due to the height of the engine the header tank and overflow will be in the back now so they can still be the highest point in the system. I'll also be adding a radiator fan and after speaking to the radiator shop I'm gonna ditch the heater for now to help with flow and will also cool the oil with air instead of coolant. So starting in the front. I had to buy 7m of 25mm ID hose to replace the 50 year old originals. Chopped up the heater box as the bottom was rusted out anyway The hose now goes straight to the bypass thermostat housing. The benefit of keeping this setup, as I read on an MGF forum discussing headgasket failures, is that it helps stop temperature fluctuations in the engine by warming the system up in stages instead of repeatedly flooding the engine with litres of cold coolant whenever the thermostat opened. I need to make a trip to supercheap sometime and rummage through hoses for a better upper rad one, one join would be ok but two with different colour hose looks a bit michael mouse.
    1 point
  22. Julian Cheer the local certifier came to look at the Triumph today. Nothing major to do. Engine mounts need more beef. I was on the fence about whether they were adequate anyway. I'll remake them in 6mm. And because I've butt-welded the subframe together to narrow it, he wants it double plated. It will be easy to do. I'll probably do something like this. No issues with the floor mods. He wants me to do a bump steer test on the rear suspension. He's going to drop off his bump steer testing bars later this week. I don't see why it would be any different to nissan OEM, I'm optimistic.
    1 point
  23. Filled in some more hole. Threw some paint at it. Made the closing panel. But still need to make the vent thingy.... it would be so easy to have no vent. But I can't do that.... Instead of making the vent thing, I procrastinated by filling in this hole. And removing this bracket that was squashed, so I could flatten the floor a bit and reshape the bracket. Apparently these are not actually jacking points, they are used in the factory to hold the floor assembly to a pallet thing as it moves along the production line.
    1 point
  24. Started building my trailer while I wait for parts to arrive. only doing a 4mx1.95m deck. will be a tandem with ramps and tyre rack.
    1 point
  25. Knock the nut off and install a rivnut? Easier than chopping up the skin. e.g ToolShed Rivet Nut Set M3-M8 (thetoolshed.co.nz)
    1 point
  26. another picture less update sorry.. we had another play with things on Saturday.. wasn't getting anywhere again... we stopped went through it all again and again.... and then Simon said ...what about the plugs ? I told him they were new last weekend..so we thought fuck it ... I grabbed a set of old shitty plugs (pretty sure they came out of the motor in the old rusty wagon).... we slapped them in and she fired up.... only for a few seconds but she fired up... I can't tell you the feelings I had when she started..... just gave me instant hope that I had done things right ....was like a massive weight of my shoulders.... still heaps to do but I know now it will work.. massive thanks to @Stufor the basic tune to make it run.... cheers.
    1 point
  27. The steering universals both looked good with absolutely no play so a little lube and some fresh paint was all that was needed. I can’t for the life of me remember what car they came from. Any UJ experts out there? Fitted up to the old tart…….. And the booster in place as well.
    1 point
  28. Not a great deal of progress but every little counts. Whilst some parts were away getting vapor blasted I concentrated on stuff i could do at home. So I stripped and painted the lower fork yokes and swingarm and painted them with gloss epoxy enamel . I picked up the rear wheel from my mate dave who does vapor blasting locally and reassembled it. the bearing were fine but I put in new shoes and springs I sprayed anything that was vapor blasted with Lanolin to prevent flash rusting and further corrosion
    1 point
  29. Done this today, plates on the top are way over size, but thats to allow for corrugated floor, should have enough contact for cert, just gotta trim the long bit off and some paint maybe tomorrow... lost motivation and funds for a while, hope to button up all the loose ends ... at least get to some progress soon
    1 point
  30. The VCC in their latest magazine have a story about someone trying to compliance a Model T via what they call 'an orange building' and giving up and in the end going to a 'seasoned, old guy' doing compliancing. The short article finishes up commenting it not what you know but who you know. Pity it doesn't say who the who is!
    1 point
  31. New muffler and rest of the exhaust in 2.25" and driveshaft hoop fitted Idle problem was seat pushing front carb down and creating vacuum leak at the soft gasket. I have used a big hammer to fix that. Things I need to still address: Speedo out by 10% so need to see if I can get a cog with extra teeth for the speedo drive or increase rear tyre size by 10% (5% to get within the threshold) See if I can get a legal sized tyre for the brx rear wheels (13x7j) that fits in guards and doesn't further mess with speedo. Pcv from cam cover to a non vented catch can returning to fittings pressed into all 4 trumpets with a gauze filter on face of trumpets like so There's a bit of renewed enthusiasm from hooning around in it, it goes pretty good even with 3.9 diff and 165/80/13. From memory ae86 diff ratio is a 4.3
    1 point
  32. Last night was heaps of fun but a bit slower than last time. Track was cold and slippery so 60fts werent great. Ran a string of 13.8s but no better than that. Also about a 20kph headwind so not sure if that makes much of a difference? But sounds like a good excuse so I'll roll with it. I realized it was probably a bit dumb lowering the car at the last minute, as it really needs another wheel alignment to fix the toe. It was pretty all over the show with bump steer on gear changes! My trap speeds were down a little bit as well, possibly due to some scrubbing from toe settings at the moment perhaps. I'll get some camber bolts dial the camber back out, and fix the toe settings before next time. Was fun learning how to do some 2nd gear skids though! Was real happy to get some runs in though, there werent many people so they let everyone keep going for more than 3 runs. I think I squeezed in about 10. Another A++ nightspeed event, was awesome.
    1 point
  33. Did some more r&d on the mk5 to Hilux option. I actually can't see this working with a 15" rim on/in a live axle application. The live axle's design prevents placement of the caliper in a position like that would be found on the bum of a FWD vehicle. This prevents the caliper from working within the confines of a 15" rim. A larger diameter rim could be made to work depending on if a workable rotor could be identified. See that cutaway rim in the pic's I use to check clearance? Clever aye? It was cut down on my rim widener I made out of scrap a few years back. Niice clean job! I know you cunts like this sorta stuff! Chur.
    1 point
  34. In my last update I was battling to get the filler on the driver's door lower panel sanded evenly. Luckily @tortron stepped in with some much needed advice and a link to a really good "how to" video clip and I was soon back on track.
    1 point
  35. I got distracted with engine stuff. Pulling apart the sweet 3 cyl 2 stroke engine I found a blown bigend. I still intend on rebuilding it but after reading some cool builds on the net I bought one of these to go in first.
    1 point
  36. Pretty happy with the way the passenger door has turned out. Black check coat on the first round of bog revealed some low spots. I gave the second round of bog a few days to rest before another check coat and sand, then a quick coat of spray filler to deal with a few small air holes which I left for another few days before sanding. Finished off with a double coat of 2K primer. I'm using Raptor epoxy primer which seems to end up with a rippled finish straight off the gun. Seems to smooth out fine after a slight tickle with a bit of 800 grit wet sanding though.
    1 point
  37. I'll give it another try, (after 1/2 tablespoon of Epsom salts). But it's busy having a go at a motobatt AGM bike battery, which it seems to think is sulphated, so ... fingers crossed.
    1 point
  38. Yesterday my mate got a gap to glue in the door patches for me. A light skim of bog will be needed to get things mint, but I'm pretty chuffed with the results. This morning I gave the new metal a quick spank with a flapper disk and then chucked some epoxy primer about the place. I'll start the bog work over the weekend.
    1 point
  39. Spent the morning cleaning 50 year's worth of dirt, flaking paint and other crap out of both door shells. Once the patches are done I'll squirt a heap of rust converter at the bare internal bits and then give both shells a liberal coating of cavity wax. Hopefully that should keep things stable for a while longer. Talking about patches I've made the cardboard templates, so cutting the panel steel should be fairly straight forward. I've also given the inner skins behind the patches a good few coats of zinc paint. Took the opportunity to squirt some etch primer on the bare lower panel where I removed all of the bog. I'll chuck some epoxy primer on the new patches and this lower panel once the welding is done. Just need to check when my mate Cameron has a gap in his schedule to tackle the welding for me. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  40. The time has finally come. I couldn't put it off anymore. I needed to cut out the rust. I have really been procrastinating on this work, as I have never really done bodywork like this before. The closest was fixing the rust on the Corolla, which was minor compared to the scope of this work. The main goal was to cut out and replace the steel on any rust that could cause an issue come WOF time. There will still be some more bodywork to do down the track, but once the car is on the road that will be easier to do. So that means I need to cut out the rust in the two front floor pans, the LH B pillar and LH outer sill. When you consider the car has been off the road for 26 odd years, and most of that stored outside, that's not bad! The front floor pans had been badly patched years ago by a previous owner, using rivets, sealant and some tin. The B pillar has a hole in it, behind the window seal, which means that the quarter window needs to come out. And the outer sill is perforated the whole way along, especially toward the rear. I started with the floor pans, as in theory, it should've been the easiest place to start and then build up to the harder sections. The first job was to grab a hammer, screwdriver and chisel, tear off the patches that had been riveted on and see what they were hiding. This big one on the RH side was the first to go. Instead of drilling the rivets out, I used the chisel to just cut through them So, it was covering a patch of very thin metal, with a drain hole that has rusted out. The circle hole is meant to be there, as it is used during the manufacturing process but usually has a steel "paint tin lid" plugging it. Obviously, the hole rusted out, the plug fell out, and it was covered over from there. There is also a recess pressed into the steel, which just acted as a rust trap over the years There are a lot of other small holes and thin metal on this side, so I originally marked it out to cut the whole lot out, but I'm a bit hesitant as finding the spot welds is proving hard due to the rusty metal (and it's spot welded to a couple of different reinforcers under the car). The LH side was a similar deal. A few patches... This one up against the inner sill gave me some concern as it has a big bead of sealant running down along the sill. Sure enough, the steel under the plate is ruined, as is the section of the inner sill where it met the floor. Another rusty drain hole, as well as a couple of screwdriver sized holes next to it (which had their own patch) Toward the tunnel, there was a large patch made up of a couple of smaller ones, which was shaped to fit the indent in the floor panel That one was bad. Big hole under it, and lots of holes poked in thin metal with a screwdriver. There are also a couple of other smaller holes I undercovered. Out came the paint pen, highlighting the extent of the damage. The only thing to do next was to grab the grinder and cutting disc This little brace for the gearbox support was a bit of a surprise. It was also full of rusty chunks from the floor disintegrating. The inner sill needed to be cut out too as that was barely holding together and was full of sealant. To access this better, I cut a hole in the outer sill (which is stuffed anyway) It was pretty ugly in there I carefully removed the inner sill section and peeled it off the jacking point brace Now, a warning. I'm not a professional, heck, I'm barely a beginner at bodywork. I know the basics thanks to a course I took a couple of years ago, but that only covered the basics of welding, not cutting out rust, making patch panels and working with less than perfect steel. I am winging this. I have a semi-decent welder, but had previously been using flux-cored wire, which I swore after welding the Corolla, I would not bother with again (it did the job, and it has a place, but it's just more work for the same result). This time I converted the welder to take a standard 0.6mm (as recommended to me for bodywork) solid wire, and shielding gas. Anyway, so I bought the steel that was recommended to me for this sort of work, which turned out to be thicker than I really should be using; 1.2mm. The original steel is about 0.8 to 1mm. I figure the thicker steel cant hurt in the floor and sill areas, and I will use some thinner steel for other panelwork as needed. The first patch I needed to make up was for the inner sill, as everything attaches to this. I did some CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) and cut the panel out so it was a reasonable fit. I left the bottom a bit longer, as that will get trimmed later when I do the outer sill. I'm embarrassed to show these initial welds, but it's all part of the process. I had been having serious issues with my wire feed, which I fixed after this section was done. I went over this a couple of times to make sure it had penetration and then ended up welding both sides. It needed to be strong. I know, I know, I needed to clean the surrounding metal better. The other issue I had was my gas regulator was DOA and the flow meter didn't work, so I just turned the gas up a bit and ran with it. The welding on the inside was marginally better. I plug welded the brace to the new inner sill section, but also later went around and welded the edges right onto the panel too. The front section of the inner sill is where I started to work out the issues with my machine, and more importantly, technique. There are some better welds here, but far from perfect. Due to the weird shape, I chose to lap weld this patch instead of butt welding it in. Once the inner sill section was in place, the first floor section went down. More CAD, but this took a couple of tries to get a nice tight fit. This has a 90 degree bend on the side to meet the sill. The welding is still a bit ugly, but it's strong and has decent penetration. As the saying goes, "A grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't" I carried on again today, and really started to get into the swing of things. The first patch was to join the previous one, up toward the rear of the car. This is a weird one, as it has to start off flat but curve swiftly up to join the existing floor. I made this section slightly oversize with CAD, bent the flange on the side and then notched it The notches allowed me to gently bend the panel in the vice. Once I was happy with the curve, it got welded in place. The next patch, the one that joins on next to it, was a real pain to make. This had to match the curve of the new patch I just welded in, but also match the curve of the existing floor both on the other side and above it. The easiest way to shape this was to make the biggest bends in the vice and then using a hammer and dolly, fine tune it into place. Some additional finessing was done once the panel was tacked in. This welded in a lot better. I'm reasonably happy with it. There is a small patch welded on next to these, which is just covering the small hole I cut out. Finally, I made a large patch to start filling the area above the exhaust and torsion bar. This is plug welded to that gearbox brace, and then butt welded all around the edges. Unfortunately my poor cordless grinder ran out of batteries as I was cleaning up the welds on this patch, but some weld through zinc primer and that was me done for the day too. I still have that one hole to fill, and then I'll move onto the RH side. I've learned a lot doing this side, so hopefully it will go a bit smoother, and quicker. A second grinder will be added to the collection soon, as using the one grinder for everything is just a real pain in the bum and it's chewing through the batteries. Having a corded one at the workbench for just cutting will help immensely. Having dialled the welder in a bit better, and ironing out some of my issues with that and my own technique, my welds are getting better. That last patch needed minimal cleanup with the grinder. Once that floor is completely welded I'll scuff the whole thing up, seam seal the welds and coat it in a zinc rich epoxy. Everything will be covered by carpet eventually. It will need undersealing under the car again too, but that will come once I have both sides done and can jack the car up to get under it.
    1 point
  41. Hey, hey it's driver's door day. Got the door disassembled before morning smoko which was good. After smoko I unbolted it and chucked it on my stand for a better look. Unlike the other door this one showed definite signs of bog in the rust bubbles and the lower door panel shows definite signs of bog bloat. Gotta love those Mericans ! Gave the rust bubbles a quick spank with a flapper disk and sure enough ..... heaps of mud. Ended up chasing it all the way along the lower panel. Luckily it only came up to just below the dip into the upper panel, so that was good. No other rust apart from the front section, so that is positive. I'm thinking that the rust was showing back in 2010 when they painted the car, so they just did a quick bog job to cover it up. Nice ! With the bog all removed I cut an opening around the rust and yep, same as the other door, the small gap between the inner and outer skins was packed with dirt and debris. Got it all out and cleaned up the inner skin with my dremel. There are a few places where the inner skin has gone too, but that should be easy enough to deal with. Chucked some rust converter on the inner bits and called it a day. Plan for tomorrow is to tidy up the cuts and make some cardboard templates for the patches. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  42. So the underside also looked pretty ugly. Again, I slapped it with a flapper disk expecting to find bog, but again no bog in sight. Cut out the nasty stuff and cleaned up as much of the inner as I could reach and applied a coat of rust converter. I'm relatively happy with the outcome thus far. I'll gut the driver's door tomorrow and then pull it off for some similar treatment. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  43. Got the passenger door off and stripped first thing this morning. Started picking at the scabs with a flapper disk after morning smoko and I must say that I am pleasantly surprised. The car was painted in the USA back in 2010 and they have a bit of a reputation for applying thick layers of bog to everything that they touch. Even although the car doesn't have that "bloated" look, I was still expecting to encounter my fair share of the stuff. Surprisingly not a bit of it. Who would have guessed ... Anyway, after realising that I was dealing with factory original steel only I started to make small cuts around the rust holes and slowly progressed the size of the cut until I had mostly clean steel on the inner side of the cuts. As suspected the internal skin was pretty crusty but I gave it a tickle with my dremel and it cleaned up okay. Its pretty solid so I just chucked some rust converter on the inner skin and I'll let that go off for a day or two before I apply some zinc paint. Next up is the underside of the same door.
    1 point
  44. So with the window regulator removed I figured I'd have a peek around the inside of the door to see how that looks. Had to remove the main glass as well as the quarter window and frame to get a really good look. You can just see the rust where the inner and outer door skins are sandwiched together. And check out the factory original finish on the hinge panel. Nice ! Despite this, the rest of the door is really solid so its well worth saving. While I've got the door pulled apart I may as well bite the bullet and deal with the rust. Unlike the driver's side this door is pretty well aligned .......for a 60's Mustang, so over the next day or two I'll pull the front fender off and mark the hinge locations before I unbolt the door. Its a bit more work, but well worth the effort.
    1 point
  45. Next up was the door lock. For some reason the key would not open the door from the outside and the interior pull up knob was stiff as hell. Pulled the whole door latch out and discovered a badly worn retaining bush that was allowing the return spring to slip past it and jamb up the mechanism. Luckily I had ordered in a pair with the window rollers, so it was an easy fix. I'll do the driver's side at some stage. Photo of the new bush in place. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  46. The focus today was on the passenger door. I pulled it apart to sort out the stiff window winder and door lock. First up was the window regulator. There are definite signs that someone has been here before as the rollers are not the factory original ones. Looks like whatever lubricant was slapped about the place has gone hard and is jamming up the works. This coupled with one of the rollers that has seized on its pin seems to have been the cause of the issue. I gave everything a damn good bath in some de-greaser and ran some sand paper over the crusty pin. Chucked in a fresh set of rollers while I was about it. Mechanism is now smooth as silk.
    1 point
  47. Mixed bag the last few weeks. Seam sealed up the last few bits and painted the underseal over them again - looked good, except i should have given it 2 days to cure, not one. Some of it is ever so slightly tacky now. Will need to try the heat gun or scrape some of it back and try again. Not a major but a bit of a shit. It's been SO LONG to get to this point that naturally I've been so excited to start putting things back together. I got in a mindset of 'should be finished soon' ha ha....oh boy. lots of little things got in the way like needing a some new nuts, cleaning up and painting extra little bits, bushings not fitting, finding the right grease, putting things on upside down......just gotta slow down and enjoy the process. Painted some bits, bolted up a few bits, bought a few more bits....should hopefully have it on its wheels again in a few weeks...... This plasticote paint goes on pretty nicely - probably the best rattle can paint Ive come across
    1 point
  48. My sister-in-law is taking this on an adventure with her boyfriend over new years, they're currently in Houhora in the far far north. Car is probably still going. So far since I have owned this car it has been to pretty much all extremities of the country, without me being anywhere near it and with no failures or fluid topups (apart from petrol) required. Ideal English car ownership experience.
    1 point
  49. As expected from any man well versed in the intricacies of British motoring engineering, I was asked to park on the street.
    1 point
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