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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/30/22 in all areas

  1. Found a 4g92 Mivec engine with apparent spun bearing. It doesn't even have the sump but the main caps are still there. Only want the head and intake so bought it and got it sent down to Wellington. It's missing the Mivec cam cover trim thing unfortunately. The cam design is really cool. I have recently learned that MIVEC is not MIVEC. The early stuff like this is basically VTEC where there is a 'race' cam lobe that is activated with oil pressure and a solenoid. I saw someone claiming they made 200kw atw on 12psi with a 4g93 with this head, don't know what turbo but it seems like it is easy to make power with a head that breaths well. The GSR 1.8 head apparently is not a good breathing head. The later Mivec like the Evo 9 is variable cam timing (I am pretty sure anyway), so less 'aggressive' I guess. Also the 4g69 etc I am pretty sure is just variable cam timing rather than vtec style cam lobs like this. So it looks like the 4g63 never had what I would call 'real' mivec, only variable cam timing. I'm hoping this 4g92 head will act like those Honda Vtec turbo's which make big power because they basically have a high lift cam profile in the higher rpms. Really interesting design. The cams sit in a separate cradle. and the head has two halves. Here it is removed: And the lower half of the head, it's actually quite clean, the photo's make it looks like it is all coked up but it's just a textured casting: It has super long spark plug tubes because the head is really tall due to the cam cradle design. Weirdly a normal spark plug socket won't fit, the tube is crimped about half way down (maybe due to assembly pushing in the tubes?), I had to grind down a spare one to be thinner walled. The head is REALLY tall, this is a big 550ml crc can next to it and the head is still taller: Valves a bit carboned up but otherwise look good: Not that it matters but the cylinder walls still have cross hatch markings: Really high compression factory pistons!
    9 points
  2. Still wrapping my head round the EFI/ECU life but my layman’s understanding after playing around for a bit is that my ECU isn’t sending ground pulses to injectors 2&3 which seems to be my issue. Injectors 1&4 are on a different pin from the ECU. Hopefully not too much of a drama to sort out. I’ve been plodding along with the interior, have managed to get all the gauges working, including rev counter which is a bonus. Slight issue is that the old 1968 rev counter only goes to 6k rpm’s, where redline in the ST170 is 7200, I’m going to try and rig up the shift light output from the ECU to be where the old generator light was in the rev counter at 6500- really need the engine to be running properly before I can see if that will work. Speedo and rev counter still need to have the outer bezels attached but that will come after final install. Have an underdash parcel tray to go in also but will hold off on that until everything else is finished. Could wait to try out my Xmas present from the better half- a nice Momo California which tops it off I reckon. She also made the shifter boot .
    7 points
  3. Engines been cleaned up pretty good awaiting slotting between the rails. Still have to make alternator bracket, and the seals under the rocker covers which seal around the spark plug tubes are toast so machining new ones there too.. Will probably make a set of log-style headers. Next weeks job is to get some flanges cut. Tomorrows Job is cab off and old engine out..
    6 points
  4. Put some hours on the boat this summer. On my last outing, was trying to catch some other boats so had the throttle wide open for 10 mins straight. 5200rpm full noise. After backing off, the oil pressure plummeted and the engine tried to have a little soft seize. Coolant temp never got silly and oil temp is the one gauge I never finished hooking up. Hand on the sump told me it was fucking hot. After cooling it off and going easy for the rest of the day, it was ok. The next weekend, I went out again and had 100psi idle oil pressure rising to off the gauge at cruise speed. So this weekend, decided to have a look at the relief valve. Oil was pretty grot. The relief valve lives behind the oil filter housing in the middle circular bore. While I had it apart, tapped a home for my temp sender. And because it's a 3.8, the gasket was $8 and available easily. The relief valve had some minor scoring on it and some schmoo particles, I'm not convinced that was the problem but polished it up and reassembled. Ran it up to temp, I'll reserve judgement until it's been out on the water again but seems alright for now. I think a little modine style oil cooler would be a good idea. Kinda keen to build a new boat. I think this one has taught me enough to know exactly what I want and how I want it. But I also like not spending money.
    5 points
  5. mixed success today - Got the manual pedals in and found out the CRV clutch master pushrod is too short. diagrams have diffrent part numbers for the pushrods on crv/ orthia so it may be a length difference. I've got a couple of masters in the lockup so I'll go out and grab them next time I'm there That aliexpress manifold is the gift that keeps on giving - Fuel rail holes are slightly out, Nothing a file cant fix and the stock throttle body throttle cable wheel thing fowls the body too, again I've got a spare throttle at the lockup or if that's the same I've got a grinder
    4 points
  6. The fuel system was a bit tricky, using a surge tank was the easiest option rather than mucking about putting a pump in the tiny 20-something litre factory tank. The tank had some pretty funky gas in it, so I had to seal it up till I could take it to the radiator shop as it would stink out my Leaf whenever I parked it in the garage. They cleaned it up and chucked in a return line for me I wanted to keep everything stock as far as the fuel pump was concerned so I bought a universal surge tank and chopped up the bike pump hanger until it fit. This had to go into... ...this. Please excuse my temporary shelf rail brackets and $6 lift pump, they helped me work out the fuel hose route, I'll have to swap them out for nicer ones later.
    4 points
  7. Nearly the end of spaghetti time.... For the crv. Just need to test 4 wires into the orthia body loom, I suspect they are for the gear selection input or something Last of the auto wiring de pinned pulled out of orthia loom and and back into the crv loom/plug Crv loom done as far as what needs go in th engine bay. I'll plug stuff in before I tape it up. Orthia loom needs more work but that can wait for now
    3 points
  8. So ThePog convinced me to post up some info about my Camper Build. Its a 1977 Dyna U10 which was probably built as a camper straight from the factory - my guess is a CI Munro camper body, its very Caravan-esque. Its a cool thing in so many ways, Ive had for a bit over a year and probably done around 3-4000km in her - Far North, Raglan, Tahora...never missed a beat. Have fitted proper seats in the back for my kids, extended main bed, fitted good stereo and reverse cam, thats about it. It is on wof, which is nice, and has the mighty (79hp) 5R 2L petrol engine and 4spd L40 gearbox. As one might imagine performance is not 'spirited'... some of the best hills it will struggle to surpass 40km/h, which is not entirely conducive to making friends on the road... I am of course always willing to accept defeat and pull over. The 70s must have been glorious, certainly not in a hurry! Anyway, the wof ran out late last year, I still did some adventures through summer because, you know, the fear of actually being pulled over was of little concern! The rust issues were starting to rear their ugly head, and the engine thing was becoming tiring. FYI, it is actually surprising that, given time it will push the camper to 100km/h (@9000rpm) on a flat road, and up to about 40km/h it all sortof works, then goes downhill rather quickly. The 5R is still in good shape, but out she goes... So one night standing around having a beer ole mate from the workshop across the road comes wandering over for a brew, asks if any of us have use for an old toyota V8 hes had sitting on his floor for about 10 years. At that point, the consideration of what to put in the camper became abundantly clear. Somewhat irrational, but on-brand and period correct. Its a 4V, likely from a mid-70s VG30/35 Century. Its carbureted and came with the 3speed auto (I really want a 4 speed to avoid needing to lower diff ratio). Conveniently, it has also had a rebuild and some tickling. Has had a reasonable amount of port work, and a cam, we pulled it down to inspect and fresh hone marks on the bores, all new gaskets etc. Has the factory 4bbl Aisin Carb, which I will keep. The price ws also right at $1200.. So I have just really started, cab is nearly off and engine is likely to be slotted between the frame rails this coming week. The Cab needs an extensive amount of sheetmetal work, someones been pretty rough, lots of fibreglass, bog, gaffa tape... anyway will send cab and panels off for sandblasting/epoxy prime and then commence that bit in good time.' Plan is really just a sweet cruiser, nothing too extreme. Id like to keep it pretty quiet, so will run full twin pipes and 4 mufflers. Cab is going to be decorated in some sort of 70s/80s Toyota Orange. The Caravan body needs some loves too. A couple of roof leaks, a few rivets to be fixed etc. Have a new Solar panel to replace the tiny one on it. Also will rejig the kitchen a little and add in a better inverter, new fridge and new batteries and charge controller. Thats prob about it for now..
    2 points
  9. Its bloody great. The built in discharge protection to stop it going too low works and has saved me a few times. I took bike out today- not used for 3 or 4 weeks and it started instantly. You def get what ya pay for.
    2 points
  10. D Day - I went to collect the XE from Hamilton today and bring it to Auckland the 265s proved to be too wide for the trailer by 2”S so I had to do the bolt to the wreckers for spec savers/steelies. Managed to locate 3 and we got the bastard on the trailer. I could only find 3 steelies/space savers and that was just enough to get the job done - albeit with a square cut out the front one to fit the hub haha Sacrificial lamb The poor single axle trailer made it home after a type pump and weight re distribute. Note - if you are using a trailer, check measurements prior, check tyre pressures and fill the spare room just to be safe! Also check the load rating so that it’s safe to use. Lessons learnt and yes, it made it. Anyhoo, it’s in Auckland and will be at my new house in 3 weeks.
    2 points
  11. The steering universals both looked good with absolutely no play so a little lube and some fresh paint was all that was needed. I can’t for the life of me remember what car they came from. Any UJ experts out there? Fitted up to the old tart…….. And the booster in place as well.
    2 points
  12. A cup of very hot water with a tablespoon of baking soda and your old toothbrush will clean it up. There are a couple of products to stop it coming back. Korode Kure (Repco?) or CRC Battery terminal protector. Don't know what does it. I suspect material of terminal (non lead) with a dusting of battery acid from fuming causing electrolysis across dissimilar metals. I haven't seen it happen on lead clamps. Supercheap do a wire brush terminal and post cleaner cheap. Worth cleaning terminals properly so the alt doesn't overcharge/ boil the battery trying to sense across high ohms connections.
    2 points
  13. I initially did before the 4V came along. I agree they are no powerhouse, but the 4L 5V is actually worse than the 3.4L 4V as its choked up with emissions gear. I want the simplicity of no electronics and with the tickle up its had I expect it should make 150kw at least and enough torque - will be over double whats in there. Economy isnt the biggest deal its not a daily, and tbh the original 4 cylinder averaged 23L/100km on trips as you had to beat the dick out of it everywhere, mostly with the secondarys open , so I expect the V8 might be slightly better than that. Its still a cheaper holiday than flying and motels
    2 points
  14. Looking like your making some good progress on yours! Mines is coming along albeit slowly. The last couple of minor bits of steelwork have been done and filler work progressing well hopppefffulllyyy not to far from going into primer then will chuck some photos up. Panelbeater/painter is doing it after work/weekends so that slows things down a bit. Interior is off at KP Upholstery getting done however so thatll be some progress when thats done.
    2 points
  15. More spaghetti! Crv loom all repined to correct plugs. I added in the knock sensor wire. Will do the auto stuff tomorrow. I went to run the wire for the vtec solenoid and the orthia loom already has it populated and it's running to the dizzy plug. I'll have to look at the dizzy and see what's going there Qc/supervisor making sure I'm staying on task More cluster schenanagins. Turns out the crv and orthia clusters are the same size just different fonts Crv now has gear indication and a higher redline for more doorts If anyone wants the leftovers for digi speedo or something then let me know
    2 points
  16. So I finally paid some money to get my exhaust done Bought a factory staged injection setup to suit my new throttles. I figure if a staged injection setup is going to achieve anything, surely it's an OEM one. It will be interesting to see if there are any tangible benefits at only 9k or under. Probably not, based on previous experience of myself and @kpr mucking around with injector position. It will be interesting to see if the injector spray pattern of the outboard injectors is anything interesting though. Hopefully the inboard injectors will be a high enough cc rating that the motor can run on just those, if needed. In order to do staged / have full control over all 8 injectors. I need to remedy the problem that one of my ECUs injector drivers stopped working. I'm not great with electronics, especially expensive ECU so I took it to Dads place so he could diagnose. Well, I managed to take the case off myself and spot the problem myself. Bravo to me! It seems one of these resistors is chooched, not hard to guess which one. The mosfet is fine, its just that this resistor blew so it went open circuit. So easy fix. Cool! Have ordered some replacements, will just take some careful soldering to fix it. If both sets of these fuel rails fit okay, then I wont need the factory 1NZ fuel rail and injectors right in the ports. So it might be worth doing a V2.0 head porting project where I can completely grind out the injector boss bumps from of the intake ports. That might be worth a smidge of power perhaps. Probably some worse cold start performance and some wall wetting grossness, from the first set of injectors being a bit further from the head. But will be easy to test before getting carried away. I also have a factory BMW airbox on the way. So this has an easy way to mount the outboard injectors, and also a cool dual length intake runner setup. When you apply 12v to a solenoid, it pushes a plunger down which lifts the upper portions of the intake runners up. Hopefully it fits, but I think it might be a bit big to fit in the available space. Fingers crossed.
    2 points
  17. Next step is to get the engine hooked up and running, so that means exhaust, fuel, coolant and electrical stuff first. I did a quick and easy job with the exhaust and used a 180 2" bend to join the headers to a cut down and repacked Yoshimura can I had spare. I'll see how loud it is then decide if I need to do a version 2 but that wouldn't happen till after the diff goes in.
    2 points
  18. Has this inside.. 2m/70cm radio USB ports Battery and charging plug
    2 points
  19. I have been keeping an eye on the lvvta docs but if you see anything whack let me know. Crush tubes for the engine subframe mounts Put the rear ones where the original engine subframe mounted Bending tube to fit The subframe isn't finished, I still have another engine mount I want to pick up and maybe tie it into the shock towers but for now it's enough to get it in.
    2 points
  20. I got distracted with engine stuff. Pulling apart the sweet 3 cyl 2 stroke engine I found a blown bigend. I still intend on rebuilding it but after reading some cool builds on the net I bought one of these to go in first.
    2 points
  21. I was pretty adamant that I was I was going to get tattooed this month after a good few years of not getting any. After a few st90s came up for sale on a group chat I thought I wouldnt get one for the price it was offered again but can get inked anytime. So I bought with the plan to repower it and give it to my dad so he can come out on the small bike rides with me and the rest of the small bike community. My initial plan was to blast everything and repaint the frame and powdercoat everything else that isnt chromed. I'm going to leave the frame as it is and just give the bike a general tidy up. Replacing cables, bearings, bushes and brake shoes. The front guard was pretty hammered so I fettled it a little with my planishing hammer, it came out surprisingly good.
    1 point
  22. I picked this little thing up ages ago from Fronte fiend @Goat, good things take time but I just fuck around heaps so I'm only now making some progress worth posting up. Hopefully some peer pressure will give extra motivation.
    1 point
  23. I remember dad doing that on the old mk4 zodiac wagon we had. I think he just liked the fact it cleaned off all the oily mess around the area too and helped keep it shiny.
    1 point
  24. So it turns out that I was way off the mark in terms of the provenance of my driver's door. After sanding through the yellow / white stuff that I thought was the factory top coat on the door it became evident that this is an undercoat applied when the car was repainted back in 2010 or thereabouts. Under this primer I found the original Nightmist Blue. I swapped a few yarns with another Mustang Barry in the USA who confirmed that it is entirely possible that a door with a build date of late February could have ended up on a car assembled in early April. He also confirmed that the factory had a habit of using up their old stock before switching to the new stuff and its therefore not uncommon to find early 66 models sporting parts left over from the 65 run. So that solves the mystery of the older style hinge bolts. And now that I've bored you all to tears with Mustang trivia I though I'd update you on the status of my door repairs. After many coats of primer followed by multiple sessions of block sanding I've now declared the doors as straight as I'm ever going to get them. I've chucked a final coat of primer on the inner and outers and the doors are now ready for colour. A while back I took the car through to my local paint supplier and they matched up some base coat using their scanner. The colour is pretty close, but not perfect, so today I ended up dropping by a local old school painter that has a fully blown spray booth and paint mixing setup in his back garden. First time I'd met him and it turns out he is originally from Nelson so we had a good yarn about the old country. He played around with his tints and got the match near perfect to my eye, but he reckons even with the modified match the outer paintwork is likely to need blending. So the plan of action is that I will paint the inners with the modified mix and will then reassemble the car before taking it around to Grant's place so he can paint the outer door panels and do any blending that may be required. Few photos of the doors in their nice new coat of primer. Thanks for reading.
    1 point
  25. Waterpump swapped back for one that dad fixed. But ive not addressed any root cause. I just now know how to fix it. Also, this made me smugface
    1 point
  26. still got the water pump issue? ahh don't stall.. sounds epic with full send flat shifting! is there anything on the time cards showing improvement mid track? 100mph Trap speed etc?
    1 point
  27. Finished welding the head stock on after these photos tho. Welderd up a bracket for my startermotot motor set up. Test with a battery moves the bike well Some tru test wheels even will paint up and get some stickers made up will look dope
    1 point
  28. Flat shifting is sorted, and I got my better shift light arrangement working again, after lots of head scratching. I've also been curious about what sort of suspension settings work well for a FWD drag car, generally speaking. It turns out that a lot of the top level cars have just got completely solid suspension, or close to it! Watching some youtube videos of launches in slow motion and it looks like they do get the intitial tyre bounce and then a fair bit of wheel spin off the line. However it also seems that since any weight transfer is not beneficial, the best thing is to just get the front and rear center of gravity as low as possible. I cant see how there's any anti dive / anti lift type stuff going on that's going to get worse by lowering it. More camber wont help, but it wont have increased by much. So will give it a go with lower heights. I wound all of the suspension right down to the limit of spring travel. Then had the guard to floor distance measured on all 4 corners on flat area in the shed. This obviously isnt as good as using corner scales, but still better than nothing. With the driver and engine both on the same side in a light car, results were uneven by quite a bit. The front right dipped 15mm, and rear right dipped 10mm lower than the other side. With some fiddling I managed to get the fronts both to the same measurement, and the rears 5mm difference. It will be interesting to see if there's any improvements in grip off the line this way. Fingers crossed that the weather gods are happy for drag racing to proceed tomorrow!
    1 point
  29. Turning my attention to the driver's door I have a strong suspicion that it is not the original factory door for this car. There are a few reasons why I have reached this conclusion. First up the captive plates inside the door that bolt up to the door hinges are threaded for the larger diameter imperial units compared to the opposite door. . According to Uncle Google the door hinge bolts for 66 Mustangs measure 5/16 whereas the 64 and 65 Mustangs used 3/8 bolts. Another clue is that I can't find any traces of the original factory paint on this door. There are traces of the new colour under the exterior door handle and traces of what appears to be Wimbledon White or Sunshine Yellow on some inner parts of the door. Final clue is the door build stamp which reads "2 10 2D" which decodes to 10th February day shift 2. So I'm picking that this replacement door was sourced from a 1965 Mustang. I'll just head off and get myself a proper life now. Thanks for looking. Mustang Barry over and out.
    1 point
  30. I may have mentioned I bought a winch... Well I also bought this the other day off Uncle Shep, who owns a pretty sweet army truck that Nelsonians would definitely have seen. This got hacked up pretty hard, then even more so when I weighed the resulting winch and cradle combo; I had to sort out the wiring as it had been extended with all yellow coloured wire. This meant understanding how this worked, which I now do and am pretty proud of myself. I also bought a hydraulic crimper that shit itself after the last crimp I needed to do. That will be going back next week. I made that box to mount it all in, mostly so people could have a solid visual representation of just exactly how shit my TIG welding can be. Anyway it came up pretty ok and compact, although hefty. I might try to find a plastic rope for it and do away with the rollers, this will remove another 10kg or so I imagine. There is an anderson plug to plug it in now, but I need to find a bit more heavy cable to connect it all up. In other news I missioned the sump leak/oil change yesterday, this appears to be a success. I just chucked the old sump back on as I knew it did not leak. That is all. At ease.
    1 point
  31. So here it is I thought I might as well get a page ready for her while she is stuck in a dock somewhere in Victoria. Logo's 1974 G60 Nissan Patrol Discussion As the title says this is my new (old) 1974 G60 Nissan Patrol This thing has been registered in Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria and hopefully soon to be Western Australia. Some casual little details about it from the previous owner/s It was engineered with a Holden 308 5ltr V8 something like 20 years ago, its backed by a marks 5speed gearbox, has disc brakes all around. While the last owner had it he professionally got all the rust cut out and replaced. replaced all the wheel bearings, rear diff bearings and seals, replaced the clutch and has a brand new exhaust. Completely reconditioned Rochester quadrajet carby, 5 new maxxis mud terrain 33s and a custom more durable offroad matt beige/brown paint. He also actually metal fabbed an air dam instead of some bogan fix the previous owner before him made up. Which well also has its issues... He installed a highflow thermostat. So in all reality this thing actually gets too cold which causes the automatic choke to somewhat get stuck on for a bit longer wasting fuel like no tomorrow through that beautiful V8 idle. This accompanied by size 73jets in the carby which he has a set of 71s which might help with a bit of fuel economy along the way. Rigged an electric fuel pump because.... engine thirsty. He tried to grease the rear bushes because of a squeak which he replied... I think I made it actually louder as they loaded it on the transport truck. Has a bunch of spares, all the badges, interior bits and pieces, spare hubs, drive shafts, full set of fulcrum bushes etc. He sussed some original seats from an older model so they made compliance in Victoria so he could actually pass the pits and also they are worth a bit of money. Which helps me even get close to passing this thing over the pits in WA. (somewhat pretty strict on any mods) Door rubbers are apparently a bit loose need some glue to stick them back on. Also as like any straight pipe into a fuel tank they tend to back splash with the speed the new pumps spew out liquid gold. He was also kind enough to be like hey i forgot some stuff in the shed like back up touch up cans and a tub of the paint with the code still on it. Also some spares, because who doesn't love spare old stuff that doesn't exist anymore. So... Heres the bad thing. I bought this and paid for the transport even with them giving 20mins to the guy who lives 50mins away to pick it up... its sitting in some big shed waiting till the 3rd of May to be sent by boat to WA on the 8th. I want the precious. Give me the precious. Here are some pictures i've stolen from him and one of it being dragged onto the truck. Discussion will be added somewhere in here
    1 point
  32. The engine is a Suzuki GSF1250, so not a big hp R1, Busa type but the price was about a third the cost of a sport bike engine and it has a stacked gearbox which was gonna be useful. It still puts out 110-120hp with some easy mods but its main feature is torque, about 110NM which is all in by 4000rpm. Space was a big concern as these cars are tiny, 3m front to back, 1.295m side to side. From the rear axle to the back of the car is 50cm or something silly so I needed a compact engine to allow enough room for a diff, that's where the stacked gearbox helps as it makes the engine shorter front to back. I spent a while considering different configurations, putting it in front of the axle would make it easier to sort the drivetrain but there is still minimal room in that direction and I really didn't want to chop up the interior. This way around had some benefits but still not enough room. White tube at the bottom is the axle centre. Then I noticed the bumper sized space behind the headers.
    1 point
  33. There was a bit of rust in the plenum that needed sorting so I started poking around. View from the inside I cut it all out about 2 years ago and it's still in the same state.
    1 point
  34. Flexing harder than my axles.
    1 point
  35. I had forgotten how bad cut springs ride, so didn't really drive the car much at all between December to March. Had a busy time with house stuff over most of the summer months and once the house sold I began hassling the Mrs for some $$$ to buy an adjustable set up. She caved and I picked up some BC adjustables, (took Clint's advice re quality in comparing similar priced adjustable set ups), they're the FC rx7 model, and they bolt right into the HB which is super cool. Out of the box they slammed the shitout of the front though, so I've been fine tuning the height I want. Cosmo's have a really low underbelly, whilst not actually looking that low. Guard lip rub, inner guard rub, and crossmember clearance of 40mm meant I had to raise it up quite a bit. (2nd pic is showing underbelly with out of the box height - could drop it quite a bit lower if I wanted to for shits n giggles). Have only fitted the front's thus far, and man it makes a hell of a difference to the drive, much nicer even with rusty old shocks and cuts still in the back. Did the drive from Auckland to Tauranga the other day with only one scrape in a silly hump in the road. I'm happy with how it's sitting now, and will chuck the rears in soon. It's the first car I've owned that's had adjustables and geez I'm sold, such a silly gimmick of being able to play around with ride height so easily, but I love it. 15ish mins each side and I can muck around with height.
    1 point
  36. I made a cradle, so now I can play airplane with my diff. It also does away with the dodgy balancing to try lift it straight onto the mounting studs.
    1 point
  37. Got this back together a wile ago, gearbox was stripped and inspected and was fine, got a new drive shaft made, now all gearbox oil leaks are fixed apart from where it weeps from the sector in the top cover but I am not worried about that, misfire was a loose vacuum line to the distrubtor, thats fixed, onto the 3rd oil pressure gauge now as they keep failing, going to fit an industrial one soon as automotive ones are total crap. I have been so sick I have not been able to do much, its like tighten 4 bolts then go to bed.
    1 point
  38. The bike is a 700cc Kawasaki. The image isn't great, but car and bike are the same size physically and despite slightly smaller engine on the Kawasaki, it has much more hrs prs apparently, which is adorable and hilarious. Next things planned: - Fix rust spots and paint job (when I'm rich enough for a paint booth) - Put on the chunky arch and get a phat wheel - Get some of that white paint so I can highlight the word "TRAILER" on the wheels. Better than a white wall.
    1 point
  39. Drain tap and mess from old small one and then still found room for air horns. Good stuff
    1 point
  40. i made one out of hard wood for my "ute crane"(just sat the crane in the ute for extra height) lifting the garage roof trusses into place. 50kg was ok, wouldn't risk much more
    1 point
  41. Made a shitty planter out of an old cylinder, brazed up the holes and put some pipe round the top for safety left a hole in the bottom for the rain.
    1 point
  42. @chris r, @UTERUS, @GuyWithAviators etc all said the same, @Shakotom said that's illegal though. /Prob going out the side tbh, neighbors shitty Bongo has a side pipe and gets WOFs so should be fine ha! //Main concern is I can't afford to lose ground clearance with some of the fields I end up in often. So committed to a MIG Remembered I don't know how to use a MIG so kept at it with my little TIG Should flow a touch better?! Took several attempts to get it to here, but it clears the bell housing, shift linkages and trans cooler lines so it'll be mint now. Grinder and paint make me the welder I ain't or something Embarrassingly I forgot to pick up some straight tube on Friday, so it's going to be a rather loud trip to the steel shop in the morning!
    1 point
  43. Tungstens acquired, still figuring out what I'm looking at with migs so am holding off for right now.
    1 point
  44. It's only taken close to 18 months, but I've picked up where @chris r left off (failed flexi and upcoming WOF made me get off my ass and into the shed) It would have helped if Chris had the van on hand when he started, we would have known it was wanting to go straight through the shift linkage then haha! Figured out the patch needed with CAD Can't find the pack of tungstens I've got in a safe place, so that's as far as I got, will grab some (or a MIG welder...) tomorrow. That's with the stock on still in place, should have tons of clearance from the shifter when it's actually bolted up! Just need to order a 45 or 60 and another 90 to finish it up, might get fancy and throw a V band in there while I'm at it. Inspo from another Super Custom fan:
    1 point
  45. Went out with @brotherd to test his new motor. I made it half hour before the bad noises started. I took some bits apart and think it might be this? I guess I'll fix that and see if the noise goes away. Happy it didn't fire a flex plate and driveshaft through the bottom of the boat.
    1 point
  46. Not as awesome and hectic as @Transom's beast, but I have one of those standard sized folders, they normally bolt to a bench and take up valuable bench space. I'd already done some strengthening mods, did a mod yesterday that I had been meaning to do for forever, took all of half an hour and most of that was finding the right size bit of box section. Just welded some box section to the feet of it, now it slides into the end of my welding/work bench. The bench weighs a lot so it is very sturdy once in there. Comes out easily, and I can hang it on the wall in between it's very occasional use, rather than having it in the way all the time.
    1 point
  47. You clearly don’t rotary.
    1 point
  48. But if they arent pinging gillies tight, then they wont be loud, and people wont know you're cool!
    1 point
  49. Here's the new one that Murray just bought for his Integra. This is bigger than his original and has a few extra features: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33022941096.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.a8ef4c4d8WUncV
    1 point
  50. No, there are many downsides. Lifepo4 is the business for automotive use.
    1 point
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