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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/27/22 in all areas

  1. The fuel system was a bit tricky, using a surge tank was the easiest option rather than mucking about putting a pump in the tiny 20-something litre factory tank. The tank had some pretty funky gas in it, so I had to seal it up till I could take it to the radiator shop as it would stink out my Leaf whenever I parked it in the garage. They cleaned it up and chucked in a return line for me I wanted to keep everything stock as far as the fuel pump was concerned so I bought a universal surge tank and chopped up the bike pump hanger until it fit. This had to go into... ...this. Please excuse my temporary shelf rail brackets and $6 lift pump, they helped me work out the fuel hose route, I'll have to swap them out for nicer ones later.
    8 points
  2. Mostly pictureless update- she runs! Albeit pretty poorly. Currently having issues with the injectors firing, cylinders 2&3 definitely aren’t playing the game- can remove the injector plugs when running and it makes no difference. Have swapped around injectors and the issue stays with those cylinders so seems like a loom or ecu issue. Have sent an email off to omex in the UK to see what they think. First time down on the ground since June last year.
    6 points
  3. So I finally paid some money to get my exhaust done Bought a factory staged injection setup to suit my new throttles. I figure if a staged injection setup is going to achieve anything, surely it's an OEM one. It will be interesting to see if there are any tangible benefits at only 9k or under. Probably not, based on previous experience of myself and @kpr mucking around with injector position. It will be interesting to see if the injector spray pattern of the outboard injectors is anything interesting though. Hopefully the inboard injectors will be a high enough cc rating that the motor can run on just those, if needed. In order to do staged / have full control over all 8 injectors. I need to remedy the problem that one of my ECUs injector drivers stopped working. I'm not great with electronics, especially expensive ECU so I took it to Dads place so he could diagnose. Well, I managed to take the case off myself and spot the problem myself. Bravo to me! It seems one of these resistors is chooched, not hard to guess which one. The mosfet is fine, its just that this resistor blew so it went open circuit. So easy fix. Cool! Have ordered some replacements, will just take some careful soldering to fix it. If both sets of these fuel rails fit okay, then I wont need the factory 1NZ fuel rail and injectors right in the ports. So it might be worth doing a V2.0 head porting project where I can completely grind out the injector boss bumps from of the intake ports. That might be worth a smidge of power perhaps. Probably some worse cold start performance and some wall wetting grossness, from the first set of injectors being a bit further from the head. But will be easy to test before getting carried away. I also have a factory BMW airbox on the way. So this has an easy way to mount the outboard injectors, and also a cool dual length intake runner setup. When you apply 12v to a solenoid, it pushes a plunger down which lifts the upper portions of the intake runners up. Hopefully it fits, but I think it might be a bit big to fit in the available space. Fingers crossed.
    5 points
  4. A very generous dyno, 108kw atw, 144hp at the wheels. They say it reads about 10 percent over, if so its still a good engine.
    4 points
  5. Well that was easier said than done. got the trims in place but was a mission. Skirting timber helped keep them in place. will sand them back and repaint as they got scuffed up a bit and I would prefer them with a matt finish. If anyone has a spare set of the door trims I’d be happy to buy them.
    4 points
  6. Next step is to get the engine hooked up and running, so that means exhaust, fuel, coolant and electrical stuff first. I did a quick and easy job with the exhaust and used a 180 2" bend to join the headers to a cut down and repacked Yoshimura can I had spare. I'll see how loud it is then decide if I need to do a version 2 but that wouldn't happen till after the diff goes in.
    4 points
  7. Done this today, plates on the top are way over size, but thats to allow for corrugated floor, should have enough contact for cert, just gotta trim the long bit off and some paint maybe tomorrow... lost motivation and funds for a while, hope to button up all the loose ends ... at least get to some progress soon
    3 points
  8. Just need some hammering to finish it off. Grabbed a clutch and new rotors and a bucket of cheap oil
    3 points
  9. I realise there have been no photos for a while and people love photos. Putting the engine back together went a lot faster with no internals, only the crank so I can have the pulley for clearance checking. The throttle body on these things is crazy. They have managed to fit throttle, tps, cold start wax plunger thingy, combined idle-up and IAC solenoid( it has 5/6 pins so I thought it was a stepper, but the manual says solenoid so there are two solenoids, or one that does two thing), MAF and IAT all into one unit! I think the 2nd plug on the TPS is for the idle switch and is only on the automatic cars. I also chased some rust with the cut-off wheel.
    3 points
  10. For some years now both Rigamortice and I have always shared a propensity for saving old tools and painting them blue (don’t ask!). The handle was falling off my favourite planishing hammer (bought in a junk shop years ago when we were buying our first house, ms sr2 had a baby on the way and were broke). This ball-pen was my grandfathers and we think was probably pre WWII. It’s got a name on the head with Sheffield England below it? Found a guy on Trademe selling American Hickory handles and ordered a couple. Spent a pleasant evening with Rigamortice in the “much esteemed & universally applauded” (in NZ) sr2 man cave drinking ½ a bottle of Barossa Valley Pinot Noir while linishing and painting the two hammer heads. Following day I shaped the handle ends and wedged them in tight. These hammers should outlive me and the people reading this thread – It’s easy to discard history but it is just as easy and far more rewarding to keep it alive.
    3 points
  11. Put sound deadner stuff in. I bought way too much, I ended up not doing 100% coverage as I read on the internet it doesn't achieve much more plus it sucked so I got a bit lazy. Plus it's fucking heavy so I didn't want to put too much in. These are my excuses anyway. Mounted some gauges Did some wiring. Engine side is now done. Started mucking around with the original loom and got some stuff to work so that's good, because 2018 clint was a bit of a dick and just ripped into it without noting what went where so there's a few mystery wires. Doesn't look too hard to figure out though
    3 points
  12. I’ve been spitballing factory paint options for a while now and love the factory metallic blue look….however I think I like the 2-tone look a bit better. Charcoal and Snow White as seen on some XE ESP’s from the factory. Even the OG 18” yea bud Simmons looks killer on this Pretty sure this colour way with the Spare tan interior will look pretty smart and the fact my car is a low spec GL Falcon, I don’t mind doing a tasteful tribute to the mighty XE. They even have the repro moulding kit too which is rad! Hopefully I’m picking the XE up from its barn this Saturday and bringing it up to the 09 for a decent tidy up and clean when we move to our new house. I should be able to crack into this build a bit more soon so watch this space
    3 points
  13. The garage build is coming along nicely. I think I had posted up a pic of the concrete pad on the shed thread a short while back. We have been building it as quick as we could in between other property jobs/customers work. Luckily its been a 6 week or more run of perfect clear sky days up until two days ago when the skies opened up and so far it all seems dry and very cosy. Pics explain the build better. It has been built on a super tight budget. We had hoped to keep the whole build under $5000 but its going to be just shy of $6000 inc the ply inside and benches etc. The concrete came in at $1100 plus paying a friend $300 to do the pour and that magical floaty finishing bit with the upside down helicopter thing. I was going to hire one and have a go at doing the whole job myself but I knew I'd fuck something up. Its probably never a thing I'll need to do again so I was happy to sit back, drink some beers and watch someone else use their experience to not screw up a job. We bought new iron and clearlight for the roof- again, something not to piss about with. The rest of the build used new surplus timber we were given by a builder friend and old iron we had salvaged from various places over the last few years. The window was gifted by @Willdat? and most of the interior ply came from the shed we pulled down. Pics.. I ordered extra concrete because no one wants to run out midway through a pour. So I made a load of forms and we ended up with heaps of paving slabs which will get used for a glass house build later on... Framework... Roof. Went for heaps of overhang on each side because why not. The old shed roof was perfect for the back wall and there was just enough of it. Already complete with patina.. We are doing what we can to try and build a garage that looks somewhat like its been there for decades. Its going to have a sign written facade above the front along with a small iron verandah. This old iron siding was perfect for the look. The alloy window is going to be painted to try best to hide the fact its alloy. Got a load of Douglas Fir timber from a friend around the corner who I had done some welding work on his van.. Ship lapped which had the added bonus of creating a load of kindling... Made some old style bi-fold doors... Had a solid old, but brand new, and very stained wooden door we had bought years ago for $20. Finally we have something to use it on. It needed gluing back together.. Altogether now.. Imp for scale... We'd bought new gauged and treated rafters because made sense. But they are pink. So Hannah painted them white for that old garage look... We went to the local tip and fished through the old paint deposit bin. Some contractors had just dropped off a whole load of paint, some brand new. Jackpot!!!... Let there be colours! Hannah sorted through them all.. Then painted walls... We made some benches etc yesterday and finished them off this morning while the rain poured down outside. Its really feeling like a good proper useful garage now... Pic of benches getting oiled... That's where its up to now. We've got some treated plywood for the signboards. The treated uprights are in place ready to fit them to. Not yet fixed on names or style but I'll just make something up as I go along. I have some funny sign ideas I might try out. Quite keen to try and make the paint and sign writing look really old and sun damaged, faded like. Keen on any suggestions on how best to do this - that washed out look. Ha- the sun here will no doubt blast the paint anyway. The front timber siding and doors will hopefully go silver in short time and look older too. I'm now super looking forward to moving all the accumulated useful stuff junk that has been taking up space in the workshop, along with many bicycles in the garage and hopefully getting rid of some stuff too. We will make a planter box for under that window out of some old hardwood telephone pole sections that were left on the land when we bought it. Would be a good place for suculants etc because all day sun but sheltered from any frosts. Oh and here's a short video I made with a Go pro I had bought cheap a while back. First time I have ever used one. I thought to take a vid of the quad bike going up the main track to the ridgetop for a beer in the sunset up there. Its a link to instagram because loading it onto youtube with our internet speeds seems to ruin the quality. https://www.instagram.com/tv/CbmRbILrDE3/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
    3 points
  14. Me and my daughter got the windows in without a single swear word from me. next step is to urethane the trims in place.
    2 points
  15. soooo one of our .embers STU offered to help with setting things up so I sent him the file and he sent it back with enough things in place to get the old girl to fire up...(once again thanks for that mate it is greatly appreciated). sooo a mate and my self had a play with things to see if we could get it to start on Saturday... The good news for me is the wiring is all good ( I did have all the relays running off switch 12v and the ecu was losing signal with laptop on hrad cranking .... so I had to run a wire from battary to ecu main power relay then turned on with key 12v). but we have been able to see things are working even managed to see that both triggers are doing as they should.. the bad news is I stuffed up the actual timing on the motor when I slapped the new cam belt on ..I wanted the motor to be at about 10° as ointos love to start there and I had put a nice clean whit mark on the pulley......but 2 things...I had then stupid set the crank timing mark to that white mark and not 0°.... now also as we found out (going through this last night ). I had also put that white mark on 12° and not 10° and that in turn had put the cam out about 6°... THAT IS ALL MY FUCK UP but when I set the base timing it seems I was bang on....its just the motor was way out...so that kinda had shit out of wack the basic tune a STU on old school had done for me is almost there... but there just seems to be something missing... it will cough and splutter .. so we are going to just start from scratch again and make sure it's all working and try again....(not sure when ..my brain needs a break) the old starter motor had to have a few smacks with the small heavy hammer.... the band new battles had a work out of turning a motor over for 2 days... so that the situation....... it is all new for me and I'm learning (and I want to ...to know how ut all works.....there's a reason why tuners charge so much to set shit up)... but the motor is 100% right (now lol ) and the ecu wiring is right (one back fire cased a fire in the inlet and caught the inlet temp sensor on fire lol).. cheers if you read all of that
    2 points
  16. Proceeded to cut the tack welds out so I could fabricate a lip to go over the trans (don’t ask) tunnel. I’m keeping the original bench seat so things will get tight with the shifter further back. It sprung slightly when released so I held things in position with some scrap and the mismatched seat mounting bolts. Bent up a piece of 16 gauge zintec for the lip…… A bit of massaging to make it fit…… And tacked it in place….. Out of the car to finish the welding and trim. A quick test fit – still holding its shape. Time to fill the big hole; endless, painstakingly small tacks cooled off with the compressed air trying not to have it distort on me. Cleaned up and it still fits! Did some floor painting and installed some 8mm riv-nuts. Beer o'clock! - Happy with the results, I’ll finish the rear part of the cover when I find a suitable old-school gearshift boot.
    2 points
  17. I have been keeping an eye on the lvvta docs but if you see anything whack let me know. Crush tubes for the engine subframe mounts Put the rear ones where the original engine subframe mounted Bending tube to fit The subframe isn't finished, I still have another engine mount I want to pick up and maybe tie it into the shock towers but for now it's enough to get it in.
    2 points
  18. I picked this little thing up ages ago from Fronte fiend @Goat, good things take time but I just fuck around heaps so I'm only now making some progress worth posting up. Hopefully some peer pressure will give extra motivation.
    1 point
  19. I'm disgusted I didn't find the build thread earlier. This is so far up my alley, it's touching a lung.
    1 point
  20. Waka kotahi Morans gonna moran
    1 point
  21. Cv time! Two left two are the auto 36mm crv axles. Right side is ef b series manual (hopefully I can swap the inners over or use the bearings) Top right is faulty accord axles i grabbed from the bin Then the auto/manual half shafts and auto orthia axle on the bottom Got one auto crv axle assembled, pick a part mission inner cv along with the grease/boot off a accord axle. I grabbed the trans cooler I had floating around the lockup so that'll go into the crv as it has a manual rad
    1 point
  22. Time to look at the XA Falcon pedal assembly. The clevis pin on the brake pedal has seen better days. I’m picking it had already done some 300 odd thousand Km’s in a clapped out XA Falcon before I bought the assembly on “Trade And Exchange” in the early 80’s, (no internet in those days). The welded push rod is for the hydraulic clutch - came from an HD Holden. Spun up a replacement clevis pin. Old vs new…… Pedal assembly ready for installation.
    1 point
  23. I managed to find the period correct guards, so pretty stoked about that. It's now with my sandblaster...so hopefully I'll get it back in a few weeks time, blasted back to bare metal and primed. The body is really good on this one and I've been over it with a hammer and dolly, so will only require a minimal amount of body work once I get it back.
    1 point
  24. Waterpump swapped back for one that dad fixed. But ive not addressed any root cause. I just now know how to fix it. Also, this made me smugface
    1 point
  25. Few small updates.. Due to failure to locate beige headrests, I picked up dark brown headrests awhile back.. I've always kept an eye out for the correct brown and recently got my hands on some very dirty beige headrests. The waifu offered to bring them back to life to which I jumped at.. Top is how they came, bottom is scrubbed Another win that took far too long to find, was locating three of these clips as there was only one present when purchasing the vehicle I also re-painted the number plates, attached some Toyota backing plates and got my hands on an S front badge albeit faded..
    1 point
  26. The clutch was still playing up, so it was time to find out why. The work I did on the clutch hydraulics, and adding the missing bolt to the clutch pedal bracket, helped the clutch issues a bit, but it was far from perfect. It was drivable now, but the clutch still bit right off on the floor, had a really long engagement, almost no feel in the pedal and would drag if you didn't keep your foot planted on the pedal as hard as you could. Not to mention the engagement was a bit on the soft side. I ordered an OEM replacement Exedy clutch kit, a new clutch fork (pre-empting a potential failure point), new fork bushes, and bolts for the flywheel and clutch cover (you can probably reuse the cover bolts safely, but the flywheel bolts must be replaced each time). Last weekend I got stuck into removing the gearbox. The first job is to remove all the gubbins around the gearbox in the engine bay, so first the intake ducting comes out, then the coolant overflow bottle, followed by the battery and its hold down. Next, the battery support needs to come out. There are three 10mm bolts on the base, and then the ECU can be disconnected, The ECU can remain attached to the support. The ECU plugs have a latching lever to lock them into place. The shifter cables were next to go. These were a bit of a pain, and different to the videos I had seen of the UK cars. First, this clip needs to be removed (partly removed in photo). You need to lift the end the arrow is point to upwards to clear the locking piece, and then the clip can slide out, allowing you to lift the cap and cable off the shifter mechanism. The other cable just levered out. It has a soft plastic bushing inside it, which remained on the mechanism for me, so I levered that off and inserted it back into the cable. With the cables disconnected from the shifter mechanism, I needed to remove the cables from the gearbox. They are retained in this bracket. This seems to be where the JDM cars differ from the UKDM ones. The cables on the JDM cars are retained to the bracket via a pair of metal clips with tangs that stop the cable from coming out. I used a tiny flatblade screwdriver to press these tangs in so they were flush with the clip, and the cable could then be removed. I later bent the tangs back out before refitting. With everything up top sorted, the engine was supported by my engine support brace (which was a pain on the Swift, as the engine bay is very short, so it had to almost go on the slam panel and gave very little space to work up top). The axles were then removed, which was also a pain as the outer CVs were seized in the hubs and needed to be smashed out with a sledgehammer. Before the axles were removed I was sure to drain the old gearbox oil, which was very dark, stank and was about as viscous as water; far too thin. Finally, all the various (excessively tight) nuts and bolts around the gearbox, including the rear and LH mounts, were removed and the gearbox gently manhandled down to the ground, using my belly as support. With the gearbox out it was immediately obvious what the issue was The bellhousing was packed with old clutch dust, and the release fork and bearing barely moved by hand. It was all binding badly. The bearing was also really rumbly; no Bueno. I removed the clutch and flywheel next. Interestingly the clutch was already an Exedy, so either they are an OEM supplier, or the clutch has already been changed (from my research it appears it could have been the original OEM clutch plate; its slightly different to the aftermarket kit I got and the pressure plate has no markings) You can see in the photo above that the plate is heavily worn, and almost down to the rivets. There are no signs of the diagonal recesses in the friction material that they have when new. The flywheel had clumps of fibrous clutch material on it Whilst the surface the clutch plate runs on had some bad heat spotting During the week I sent the flywheel off to be machined, and it came back looking really nice I also took the time to knock out the old top bush and remove the clutch fork. There is a special tool to remove this bushing, but I don't have one. So I made do with what I had. The same job can be done with an old 5/8" spark plug socket, cut in half and the end with the square in it cut off. A section of pipe of the same OD would work too. Combine this with a hammer and punch And you can drive the seal and bush out This high-tech tool may scratch up the surface of the clutch fork, which I'm replacing anyway, but do this at your own risk. With the bushing removed, the clutch fork can then also be removed and after a clean, thoroughly inspected. Due to a bad design where the welding is only halfway around the rod, they are prone to cracking at the ends of the weld, causing many issues, since this is what translates the movement in the hydraulic system from your foot, to actually moving the release bearing and pressing on the clutch pressure plate (which takes a lot of force). Mine wasn't cracked and would probably be fine to reuse, but I wasn't taking the risk since I was already here. I had a replacement genuine part on hand, and it's good to see that Suzuki realised it was a flawed design and superseded it with a newer design that is fully welded. I can only really come up with a couple of conclusions as to how this issue happened. The obvious one is that over time the factory fitted grease that should be on all the pivot points, but is now completely missing, wore away and was replaced with high friction clutch dust. This issue was compounded by the leaking slave cylinder, and the flexing pedal bracket which failed to allow the clutch to fully disengage, which caused even more clutch dust, and just bound up the fork and bearing. The alternate theory is the same, except when the clutch was replaced, the mechanic failed to grease the pivot points and it's been operating dry this whole time. I don't know if the clutch was replaced, the car has no service history, so we can only speculate. I cleaned out the bellhousing, and cleaned the lower bush. It appeared ok and cleaned up well, so I chose to reuse it rather than try and work out how to remove it. The replacement fork had a new roll pin fitted both bushes were lubed up, and the new fork fitted I used the old bushing and another 5/8" spark plugs socket (complete this time) to drive the new bush in Followed by the new seal Lots of the fancy purple Exedy grease was used on the snout, input shaft and contact patches of the fork, and the new release bearing was fitted The clutch fork more or less flops about and takes no force to move, which is a huge difference from how it was before. While the gearbox was out, I took the opportunity to also replace the rear engine mount. There was some movement in the engine when coming on and off the throttle, and there would never be an easier time to get at the mount than now. The old one wasn't cracking or torn, but had slumped slightly due to the weight of the engine. Once that was loosely in place (it cant be fully installed until all the other bolts around it are tight, as it and the bracket that attaches to it are in the way) the freshly machined flywheel (with new bearing) was fitted. My paint pen is rubbish, but the marks on the new bolts indicate I have torqued them to spec. The new clutch getting ready to fit And here you can see the recesses that had been worn down on the old clutch. That's quite a lot of material to be missing from the plate The kit came with a spline type alignment tool but I prefer my old style universal one. It seems to be quite accurate. I tested the spline type one once the clutch was fitted and there was enough play in it that I could see it being annoying to use. Now the gearbox could finally go back on. I tried the reverse of removal and lifted the gearbox up onto my torso and tried to bench press it into place, but it was getting hung up somewhere and my lack of upper body strength was starting to show, so I moved on from that technique. The tried and true jack it up and slip it on technique was the winner here, after a few tries. I found that it was easiest if I used the support bar to lower that end of the engine down about as far as it would go, as this put it on a steep angle and gave me more room to fit the gearbox in. Eventually, after some wiggling, the input shaft found its way through the clutch and it all slid together nicely. All that was left was to do the reverse of disassembly. Install lots of annoying to get to bolts, line everything up, and refit all the gubbins. I made sure to clean and grease the splines on the outer CV joints when I refitted them so they come out easier next time. Don't forget to fill the gearbox with your favourite flavour of GL4 oil in about 75W90 weight. Mine is Penrite, it just tastes better (and is a lot thicker than what came out). Before I wrap up the clutch job, there are a few other things I was doing at the same time. One of them was to pull the front off the car and make it look far worse than before. The bumper comes off really easily. Four bolts and two clips up top above the grille, three bolts on the underside, a few clips for the front guard liners, and then a screw on each side in the wheel arch going into the bumper retainer. It then unclips from the retainers and basically falls off. There were two reasons for this work. One, was to replace (or in this case, fit) the ambient temp sensor as mine wasn't working, showing as a series of dashes on the temp display, and a lack of average fuel consumption display (it's a weird thing to be joined). I can't stand things that don't work. It should be here, attached to wires that should be coming out of this sleeve. The sensor clips into that oval hole. The wires are still there, thankfully, but either torn or cut off I grabbed a sensor and a section of the loom a while ago from Pick A Part, so set about joining a new plug onto the remains of the loom. I cut the sleeve back, and stripped back the wires The sensor just clips in And because I'm lazy, I used these solder joiner sleeve things. The wiring here isn't critical, and will be wrapped in tape, so should be ok. A final wrap in some loom tape, and zipped into the little zip tie fasteners, and it all plugged in nicely. A quick test with a jump pack balanced precariously in the engine bay, and we finally had an ambient temp display (and on the test drive the average consumption came to life too) The second task was to replace the headlights. Mine were very cloudy and very yellow. Didn't look too bad in photos but was horrible in person. They were also a bit dubious for the warrant check in a few months. I came across a pair of black housing halogen lights like mine on a local Facebook group, being sold due to upgrade, and they looked spotlessly clear, so I snapped them up. These were the old ones. They are worse in person. They are only three bolts each to remove And the replacements. It's not hard to see the difference. The only little quirk is that these are from an NZDM Swift Sport, which obviously didn't have electronic height control (via a dial, not automatic) as these didn't have the height control motors, and it looks like they couldn't be retrofitted. Not an issue though as they work fine as manual lights, and I hate the height control thing anyway as I never use it (designed for if you have a heavy load in the rear of the car, so you can dip the lights down further and not blind traffic). I'll get a blanking panel and pull the dial out of the dash at some point. The bumper was refitted (as were the wheels, and being lowered to the ground), and it looked like a car again. So, back to the clutch. With the car still up on the Quickjacks I checked that the clutch worked, and all the gears could be found, which they could, so on went the wheels and down onto the ground the car went. It was test drive time. The first drive was just a short one around the block to make sure everything worked and nothing fell off. It was a good start, as the clutch felt good right off the bat. The pedal had a nice spring to it, and a bite point was dead center in the travel. Full disengagement was obtained way before the pedal was fully pressed, so no chance of the clutch dragging anymore. The new rubber pedal stop cushion makes for a nice gentle stop, as opposed to the old one which was completely mashed by having to press the pedal right to the floor and then some. A quick spanner and leak check at home, and then another drive to get dinner. This time I covered a few more KM, and it's all working very well, as it should. It's taking a bit of getting used to as the clutch bites a lot firmer now, I didn't realise just how soft the old clutch engagement was; you could basically dump the clutch as quick as you wanted between gears. I still have 500km or so to bed the clutch in, so oh noooo, I will have to drive the car as much as possible and try and get the miles on it; what a shame. Even with the new clutch, mount, hydraulics etc, it still cost me less than it would for the next cheapest Swift Sport in this condition, mileage and year. I have a couple of modifications to fit soon, including a new rear muffler and some wider wheels. That'll come in the next instalment of Swifty fun times.
    1 point
  27. Pick a part mission turned into a Misson. Both auto crvs had had the CV's pulled out and chucked on the ground. Lucky between the two crvs there I got both larger shafts. Both were missing the inner bearings (which are different to the orthia ones) and inner cv boots were well gone. I pulled a odyssey apart and luckily the bearings are the same and there was a inner boot that also fit. Grabbed a loom out of a crv too as that'll save me some time as plugs etc are different between orthia and crv. This is turning into a bit of a time sink but hopefully it'll be drivable/I can get it sold. It would probably have been less time/effort to part it out Hopefully they install themselves
    1 point
  28. New muffler and rest of the exhaust in 2.25" and driveshaft hoop fitted Idle problem was seat pushing front carb down and creating vacuum leak at the soft gasket. I have used a big hammer to fix that. Things I need to still address: Speedo out by 10% so need to see if I can get a cog with extra teeth for the speedo drive or increase rear tyre size by 10% (5% to get within the threshold) See if I can get a legal sized tyre for the brx rear wheels (13x7j) that fits in guards and doesn't further mess with speedo. Pcv from cam cover to a non vented catch can returning to fittings pressed into all 4 trumpets with a gauze filter on face of trumpets like so There's a bit of renewed enthusiasm from hooning around in it, it goes pretty good even with 3.9 diff and 165/80/13. From memory ae86 diff ratio is a 4.3
    1 point
  29. Finished closing in the rear firewall. Now the rear window can go in once I recieve the new rubbers.
    1 point
  30. I'd never realised how political model building is. There's so many "right" and "wrong" ways of doing things. I started a bit of a row on the model forum with the amount of weathering & rust on my Bergepanther. They'll shit themselves when they see the next one. There's also some big thing about "modulation" of paint colour on panels. So a bit darker at the edges where angles meet. It's too bloody complicated for me and they all seem to get their knickers in a twist about how much/little/right/wrong it is. I can see a rage quit happening on there although they are very nice. Stupid models.
    1 point
  31. And finally I ended up with this.. So I'll paint this and fit it then the rear window can go on.
    1 point
  32. So far, this has been going pretty well. Aside from some problems with cracking on the headers, the car has run pretty well. There's a few tune-based things to tidy up but nothing that really affects the drivability. All the Pioneer stereo gear is now functional. I use a Bluetooth cassette adaptor off Aliexpress to enable me to retain total tape functionality and play tunes from Spotify. It works much better than expected. I also went to town on my cert-spec wheels, as I figured it best look pretty good when I do have to take it for a WOF! Results as below. KP61 Night 21-04-16-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr KP61 Night 21-04-37-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr KP61 Night 21-04-44-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr KP61 Night 21-04-49-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr
    1 point
  33. small update .. *I have managed to set base timing.. and I belive also sync cam trigger. *I have fixed the TPS problem ( tried a few things in the pc link setup...but ended up just swapping 12v and sensore ground over). I think this may be my limit and were I'm going to need help setting up maps and trying to fire her up.... so ill have a chat to my mate tonight and see if he can talk me through it or even come and help me.. but she's closer than see was 3days ago. cheers
    1 point
  34. Car got relegated back outside so i could use shed to build a kids playhouse then mucked around with the ute a bit. Quad bike is next for a quick refurb before winter missions so car will be outside for a bit longer yet. But i did a deal the other week for some spare glass. Now i have 3 spare rear screens, 2 spare sets of rear screen chrome, and 2 spare front door windows. Need to find a set of rear door glass then i will be happy. Ish.
    1 point
  35. well my brain hurts.... got the unlock code and didn't do much yesterday as I got roped into the decorating that's going on in my daughter's bedroom... so that was annoying . I did watch a few more YouTube videos on setting up the ecu last night and had a go today for a few hours.. I down loaded the new updates and saved it there and then started a new setup and I'm saving that as testing.. (so if I fuck things up I can just go back and load the one saved after update.). So I have managed to .. *setup and test the coils (they work). *setup and test the injectors (they work. *set up and test boost controller..(it works but havnt set any figures in there yet). *setup and test shift light (same as above works but no extra figures added. *setup and test ISCV (works but havnt set any think els up with that). *set and and tested TPS and MAP sensors. tried to calibrate them but both came back with a fault code ... did some searching and most common answer with map sensor is its broken.... so I left it and had a look at TPS (throttle position) and when I was moving it the values on the MAP sensor where changing ..now the MAP and TPS where allready marked out in the loom with the 3 wires needed for them each and a tag at the end starting what ut was for and what wire was what... tours out they git the tags wrong so I just swapped them over on pc link and then ran and other calibration on the MAP and ut came as fine .. so cleared that fault code.. Then I tried the TPS and set that up but the values are the wrong way around for some reason ... wide open is low voltage and closed is hig voltage. .. (not sure if it will work that way around or not will look more into it tonight.). *set up fuel pump aswell and started looking at cutting up triggers... but thats where I left it.. think for tring to set base timing I might pull the plugs out as well so no compression so it should turn over easier as it's still old motor old starter motor hard cranking.. but yes my brain hurts..
    1 point
  36. Got dicked around by Classic Industries for months but we got there in the end. Dash pad, parcel shelf and glovebox innards sorted.
    1 point
  37. Yes correct, the trigger for downsift needs foot on brake and clutch at the same time. (And throttle less than 20%, but I'm imagining its hard to have 20% throttle with no foot on it) So yeah I got this all setup this morning for flat shift (havent configured the blip yet) So the clutch engagement point is at about 30% of travel (from the floor) But doing some testing I need the engagement point for the fuel/ignition cut to be more like 70% to stop the motor from either bogging or revving too soon. However its absolutely savage when it's setup right! Previously the 2nd>3rd shift was about 450ms to get back to full throttle from first lift. Now it's more like 210ms. With flat shift: 1st to 2nd takes around 310ms, 2nd to 3rd is around 210ms, 3rd to 4th is around 190ms All fairly consistently around those times. RIP shift forks hahaha.
    1 point
  38. Sanding like a beach. Last few low spots to fill last night, feel like maybe I'm going overboard a bit but on the other hand I can't bring myself to not fill these low spots after all this work. Front is looking good now. There were a couple of low spots in the centre which is now good. Next will be to prime it again with a more thinned down mix. Then maybe wet sand 400 grit, depends how well the primer goes on.
    1 point
  39. So bit of a small update I guess... Got some parts put parts on made other things worse. aka new indicator stalks look lots better... but now I don't have high/low beam but I do have high beam flash. Not sure What I've done checked all the fuses etc. but all look good? Know the local auto sparky anyway he can be handballed the job for the minor price of a small village no doubt. Figuring out why the horns don't go, one of the relays kind of just comes apart? For the life of me I can't find any 80A 5 prong relays anywhere... so ebay had some cheapo no doubt dodgey ones I will try put on and see what happens. Got some hard plastic cover door cards actually came out really good and they were packaged like the world depended on them 5stars. New door handle bezels also. Only thing is all the windscreen winders have had the teeth chewed out of them and the pins snapped so not really much point trying to wind anything currently. Winter anyway. Started doing some cleaning/degreasing/wire brushing and sealing. Then proceeded to slowly paint the underbody which sucks a lot laying on your back constantly. Also custom plates cause why not, also not really my car so she can do whatever with it I just have to fix it. Spent a good fair while cleaning all the grease nipples and then pumping some nice fresh stuff through... 1st one no worries pretty much felt like it had nothing in it... 2nd a large amount of gritty grey/black grease pushed out and then also the fitting got stuck for like half an hour trying to wiggle, turn, twist, yank and swear. Even had to message my brother to see if I'm just stupid or not but after that it finally got free after smacking my knuckles how many times to try pull it off. Following the like 20 others that were absolute scum filled it now has nice new grease. Steering is up 136%, Driveshaft spins 112%, rear suspension felt like what was non existent and with a short wheel base is basically a small rock makes your spine shoot through the back of your skull. It now actually feels stupidly smoother like a completely different car. Made a small list of things as you do while poking around and just want to make yourself feel like the list gets ever longer. New Relay Radiator return hose leaking high/low beam issue Front left locking hub is stuck (opened it up think the rink has a split probs need a new one...) Gearing into H4/L4 is a smidge hard general tune/service/brakes/clutch New speedo cable arrived so install that probably need new bushes all around when I was greasing Front windscreen has a leak (Ray Charles must have personally silicone it) also a decent chip which might start to travel Windscreen wiper drivers side I kind of touched and it fell apart... I force soldered it back into place until a new one is sourced Gauge cluster was bulldog clipped on... so that will be bolted on Slap some big bright spotties instead of the rectangles just so all oncoming traffic can't see for the next 20years. Its the Australian way. This will no doubt keep me entertained for awhile especially while I still wait for the patrol to arrive, which has now been pushed back to the 10th of May Here is some basic photos of stuff to keep you guys going
    1 point
  40. Like all good things, my ownership of the Tomcat wrapped up today. Long story short, after much back and forth, the Tomcat was sold to a collector in Australia who is looking to import this to Australia and add it to his rather sizeable collection of other Rovers. As he still resides in Aus currently, he managed to arrange for a friend to come to collect the car from me and store it until he can make the trip over to arrange the export. It's bittersweet really. I've put so much time, money and effort into this car, to take it from the hunk of junk it was when I got it (thanks previous owner), to the solid, reliable and mechanically sorted car it is today. It's still got a long way to go in terms of cosmetics and things like suspension, but the foundations are there for one of the best examples around; with a gearbox that is just a joy to use and a diff that pulls you around corners like understeer doesn't exist. On the flip side, I didn't get a chance to drive it much (I prefer to use the Swift, and the Honda is the daily) so it only came out occasionally, and I could really do with the space it was taking up on the drive. Hopefully the new owner gets a chance to put some decent miles on it, because it's only done something like 1000km since it was imported to NZ from Japan back in 2016 (says a lot about the condition before I got it then if no one drove it). It deserves to be used and driven hard, now that the gearbox can handle it! So, after a 2 hour bus trip for the chap collecting it, the car was picked up today I'm sad to see it go; the noises it made on boost were just so intoxicating. Nothing I have owned had quite the same sound. Once the suspension is sorted, that thing will be a real weapon, just chewing up corners flat out. I have put the feelers out for a potential new project, but no details will be revealed on that until I know the outcome (since it's likely a no), but we will see how it goes. In the meantime, I have two other cars that need my attention. Goodbye Tomcat
    1 point
  41. No update for a while, I have been slowly pesting though. Made some new motor mounts, connected the hand throttle and altered the factory muffler to clear the bonnet and look more tractoresque. Annoyingly the motor was advertised as having a 1" crank with 1/4 keyway but it turned out to be 25mm with a 7mm keyway. No problem, I got the pulley re keyed and shimmed the difference in diameter with some coke can and lots of locktite. The pulley has provision for a grub screw to help hold it which I'll add when I find one. I also turned up a cupped washer to stop the pulley wanderin. I've used some bearings and another turned up washer to replace the missing belt tensioner. They might fly to bits, time will tell. So if I can get a new drive belt this week I should be able to go for a drive. In other news I visited Dubious Dave today who had found more Pwer Pony parts. Both belt guards which is super handy. They'll need to be modified but it's better than making new ones. Dave also came up trumps with a pair of mower decks. One is stuffed but it has all the mechanical parts on it. The other is in really good condition and appears to be compete. Perfect.
    1 point
  42. Has this inside.. 2m/70cm radio USB ports Battery and charging plug
    1 point
  43. I may have mentioned I bought a winch... Well I also bought this the other day off Uncle Shep, who owns a pretty sweet army truck that Nelsonians would definitely have seen. This got hacked up pretty hard, then even more so when I weighed the resulting winch and cradle combo; I had to sort out the wiring as it had been extended with all yellow coloured wire. This meant understanding how this worked, which I now do and am pretty proud of myself. I also bought a hydraulic crimper that shit itself after the last crimp I needed to do. That will be going back next week. I made that box to mount it all in, mostly so people could have a solid visual representation of just exactly how shit my TIG welding can be. Anyway it came up pretty ok and compact, although hefty. I might try to find a plastic rope for it and do away with the rollers, this will remove another 10kg or so I imagine. There is an anderson plug to plug it in now, but I need to find a bit more heavy cable to connect it all up. In other news I missioned the sump leak/oil change yesterday, this appears to be a success. I just chucked the old sump back on as I knew it did not leak. That is all. At ease.
    1 point
  44. With a margin of error of +- 500 pages Speaking of barrying, The full results from nightspeed came out. So although I got eliminated in the first round by some poor tactical judgement (lining up against the fast wagon straight away) I was third fastest in class so that's cool. There were 163 cars in total, and my car is the median haha. There were 81 cars faster than mine, and 81 slower. Looking at Trap speeds vs quarter mile times and you can see what's needed to achieve a particular quarter mile time. My trap speed is very low for the time that I'm doing, compared to other cars doing the same time. Which suggests I'm getting off the line quite well and I'm likely pretty close to max potential. The only car faster than mine that did a sub 100mph Trap speed was an A45 AMG Mercedes, which ran a 12.927. Must have had an epic launch! Or maybe hit the brakes early. But no 60ft data included so not sure. However you can see that there are cars hovering just under/over the 100mph mark which are doing way slower quarter mile times. So they'd have heaps more potential with better suspension/tyres rather than more power. The slowest car with a 100+ mph trap speed was a Mirage that ran 103mph over the line, but ran a 15.3 Must have had a really horrible launch! It's got the trap speed to easily do a low 13 or a high 12 instead. EDIT: I just noticed the other sub 100mph dot. This is funny, you're not allowed to run quicker than 11.0 at Nightspeed without getting in trouble. This was a GTR skyline that ran a 10.961, with a trap speed of 97mph hahaha. So obviously absolutely hauling arse off the line, then probably hitting the picks half way down the track to avoid doing faster than an 11.
    1 point
  45. Car was tuned today made 176kw on about 6.5/7psi
    1 point
  46. The engine is a Suzuki GSF1250, so not a big hp R1, Busa type but the price was about a third the cost of a sport bike engine and it has a stacked gearbox which was gonna be useful. It still puts out 110-120hp with some easy mods but its main feature is torque, about 110NM which is all in by 4000rpm. Space was a big concern as these cars are tiny, 3m front to back, 1.295m side to side. From the rear axle to the back of the car is 50cm or something silly so I needed a compact engine to allow enough room for a diff, that's where the stacked gearbox helps as it makes the engine shorter front to back. I spent a while considering different configurations, putting it in front of the axle would make it easier to sort the drivetrain but there is still minimal room in that direction and I really didn't want to chop up the interior. This way around had some benefits but still not enough room. White tube at the bottom is the axle centre. Then I noticed the bumper sized space behind the headers.
    1 point
  47. 3 days after it got its 1st wof in 24 years Probably done 2000miles since dec
    1 point
  48. Just got back from the Rangiora Car Show - EPIC AF. picked up this XE Fairmont console that has the factory material plushness cover. Under is a black console that I will need to clean up and remove the material glue etc before I get too excited. Plus it’s still in chch and is a giant fragile bastrd to move. x series falcons NZ on FB has all the photos I took of anyone is interested. Too many to load here as I struggle to successfully post 2 images. Got a nice beige XE Fairmont steering wheel that was painted black. Currently taking the black paint off
    1 point
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