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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/16/22 in all areas

  1. Yeah I agree with this, using NOS and you lose some the masochistic charm of NA tuning. Yeah, its just such an incredible difference I dont think I'd want to do it on street tyres again. With the semi slicks you can choose between wheel hop, bog, or spin up. Then it wont stop spinning unless you back right out of it. On these its like a magic carpet ride! Even if rpm is higher it just keeps on propelling you forward. So good! On this car the sound deadening isnt actually stuck to the chassis, its just a thick slab of matting that goes between the carpet and the body. So you literally just lift it out. Then bam 20kg gone! I like some of your other ideas here but reality is I've only got a fairly shoestring budget for this project from here onwards. I'd like to get the carina going again this year. So for the moment I'm just gonna get an exhaust done when I can then worry about whatever else later. And just get some more runs done! And get to a trackday hopefully, which is where I was expecting this car would shine more than the drags.
    9 points
  2. Few more pics of putting it back together. I’m now a master at brake pipes after a few stuff ups
    8 points
  3. Yeah, after my second run I had a sinking feeling I had some beginners luck and I wasnt going to dip into a 13. I was praying for like a 13.999999 haha. But then when it hooked up like that I just knew. Man it was awesome. And yeah, my last run was the fastest and I only got 3, so it's potentially not even tapped out as it is. Still just blows my mind that it's even possible for a 1500cc NA setup to do anywhere near that sort of time. Also just like my first time going on a track with semi slicks. It goes to show just how important the right tyre is. See people spending $$$$$$ on their car but then on the wrong tyre for the job. Cheapest way to go fast. Especially when you borrow them from @Stu haha I just had a look through logs from my fast run. Looks like after dumping the clutch the rpm falls to minimum of 4500, which is great as below that is the area I really need to avoid. So I'm 100% keen to go back and try a higher launch rpm. And now super keen to get the exhaust done.
    8 points
  4. Chev is off to get painted next weekend so spent a day removing as many bits as possible while still keeping it legalish to drive to painter 2 side windows and tail lights are 8 screws so I'll do that when it gets there Found some greeblies hiding under a door rubber so it's off to tin tricks @RXFORD this week for him to once again fix my panel related problems, what a top gentleman
    8 points
  5. Well that was easy. The fucking main hinge is metal-on-metal in these things! Now both bushed. Drilled out the flogged end and pushed these in, trimmed off the excess + lubed up and it’s feeling lush. Dealt to some pitting along the bottom of the door while it was off the car and any crust from door jamb joins.
    8 points
  6. Making good progress. Pedal box ordered this week after discussions with LVVTA and my certifier- will need to get the brake pedal remade but otherwise should be good. Seats are in, new seat guides in the trans tunnel made. Just need to make doubler plates for under the floor now. Spent some more time on the engine, new oil pick up, sump and dipstick assembly fitted, new cambelt and water pump fitted and painted the cam cover. Spent some time sanding and polishing the exhaust manifold too. Also added the accessory drive assembly. The Retroford stuff isn’t cheap but you get what you pay for, everything fits nicely and is really well made. Have also seam sealed and painted the floor pan, in hind sight probably should have sprayed it but not too many people will see it.
    6 points
  7. Yay - rear bumper brackets, need to be bent back into shape but brackets none the less. Also need to find those chrome dome bolts etc to attach the bumper as all i have a a bucket of jap nuts and bolts
    6 points
  8. Last night at Nightspeed. Suuuper busy, but it was really awesome to see a big crowd at the drags, lots of spectators too. Was a cool atmosphere. So first run, set the hoosiers to around 20psi which is very high, but wanted to start out conservative. Ran a 14.092 @ 100.21 mph with a 2.33 60ft. So first run and I've beaten the Carina by every single metric. What the hell! But so stoked! I was convinced at this point that I'd get a 13 tonight. Second run we dropped the pressures a bit, launch wasnt so good and I ran a 14.1 with a higher 60ft. At this point I figured I'd probably cursed myself saying I'll get a 13. Looking at the logs of both runs, the motor was bogging a bit when I was trying to roll into the throttle and clutch. So third run, set a launch limiter at 5500rpm. Full throttle sitting on line, dump the clutch. And holy fucken shit. No wheel hop no big spinning, just felt like stretching out and releasing a rubber band. It felt so much faster than my first run, I crossed the line realizing it must be a 13. Absolutely fucking stoked beyond belief Get my time slip and was blown away 13.83 @ 99.6 mph with a 2.1 60ft Was in about 5000 out of 100 fizz mode, it was so cool. I didnt get any more runs, because it was incredibly busy and was already 10.30pm or so by the time they started the eliminations. But it's incredible to think that it could still possibly go faster yet. Even just doing that time was incredible. It felt like it could have easily launched another 500rpm or 1000rpm higher and hooked up good. Will be back!
    6 points
  9. maaaaaaaan what a mission sorting the roof lining out .the edges are all ripped and brittle. but I got there in the end ...shit loads of spray adhesive.. and then a coat of black to make it all one colour. it's not mint but is is so much better. then thought I would put the carpet back in and rear seat as well as parcel shelf....looks good with all the cream on cream action and some chocolate brown.....even got the neat lines and parishes lined up.
    5 points
  10. With the Tomcat finally on the ground again I could get around to doing some smaller jobs that I didn't have space to do before. The first was to replace the door switch on the RH side, again. I replaced both door switches when I first got the car as both had broken and the interior light didn't work. Unfortunately the same night the gearbox gave up, I opened the door and a piece of plastic fell on the ground and the switch was missing its lever again. Nuts. Old photo as an example. Thankfully Pick a Part still had a Rover 45 in the yard, so I grabbed a couple of original Rover door switches from that, but whilst I was there I had a look at a Honda Concero (the platform brother of the Rover 200) they had and noticed it had a different style of door switch, in the same location and a similar design. The Rover ones look like this; All plastic design. Broken on the right. The Honda one has a metal base with a slightly different plastic lever that has a more gentle radius on the 90 degree bend the Rover one usually breaks at. The underside is more or less the same, and its retained in the same manner It was easy to fit, slots right into place. And the interior light works a treat The best thing is that the Honda switches are also used on the 1st gen RD series CRV, which are a dime a dozen at wrecking yards (Pick a Part currently has 9 on the yard), unlike Rovers (zero on the yard). The next small but satisfying fix was to replace the brake light switch. I looked into an issue with the brake lights back when I first got the car, and I tried to adjust the switch, which did work for a bit, but was really touchy and often left the lights stuck on. I picked up a generic Tridon switch, TBS041, which was listed for a Honda Civic, which has the same thread, plug and design. The switch is tucked up under the dash, in an almost inaccessible spot above the pedals. I removed the panel under the dash, which gave me a little more room to work with but still meant contorting myself into the footwell. It lives here, screwed into a bracket above the brake pedal. There is a lock nut which you need to loosen first There is also a connector on the end you need to unplug so you can rotate the switch and remove it. Before installing the replacement I plugged it in and tested it The new switch is slightly different to the original one, but is close enough. The old one had an original label dating to 1994, so it had never been replaced. It's just a matter of screwing it into the bracket until the button is depressed, but don't screw it in hard against the bracket or you'll probably break it. I wound it in until the button was just completely depressed and then backed it off a turn. Use the lock nut to lock it in place. Check the lights work, and bam, jobs a good'un. The final job I had wanted to do was to install a boost gauge so I could check the turbo system was working correctly. I picked up a cheap second hand electronic Prosport boost gauge (I've used the brand before and like the style) and set about installing it. The electronic gauges have a remote pressure sender, which is mounted in the engine bay. This has a wire that has to go into the cabin to send the data to the gauge. I started by running said wire into the cabin. This turned out to be really easy, as there was an unused grommet in the firewall, which lead into the cabin. When you remove the grommet, behind it there is a pre-cut section of insulation on the inside. A quick poke with a screwdriver removed this The hole in the firewall comes out up to the left of the clutch pedal, which is very easy to access inside the car. I poked a hole carefully in the grommet and fed the cable through And refitted to the firewall I mounted the sender on an unused stud mounted on the firewall The boost reference hose was run to an unused vacuum takeoff point on the manifold With the sender plugged in, that was that part of the job done Moving to the inside of the car I found and tapped into a switched power feed under the dash, and ran the ground to the bolt securing the fuse box. The gauge pod was then carefully placed and stuck down. I used fabric tape on the wires so they wouldn't look shite. The wires are tucked into the gap down the edge of the dash and cant be seen. The view more or less from the drivers seat. It's tucked down quite low but is in line of sight for the driver. It's not too obtrusive. Could look worse. I did want a boost gauge that had a smaller scale so it'd use more of the gauge dial, since these cars are quite low boost (around 10psi), but it was hard to find a good one that was less than a 30psi scale. On a closed road in Mexico, I can now confirm the turbo system is working spot on. I'm seeing about 9psi in the first two gears and 11psi in the rest, which is expected for this system. Boost comes on really quickly and holds all the way through with minimal drop-off. The car doesn't feel fast as such. In first it's pretty hectic, but second onwards it just gains speed quickly with little fuss (other than the noise). I feel like that's a Rover thing, and without torque steer and being thrown into hedges it's all kind of a bit civilised. I have booked a WOF inspection for the end of the month, and will see how we go from there. Hopefully it's a pass and then I will be able to drive the car on the road legally and work on fixing some of the other issues.
    3 points
  11. I made a dumb cart! This car has no wheels. The proper wheels are a long way away, so it needs some temporary wheels. Especially because Panel McPanelbeaters will need to be able to move it around. After looking at a bunch of vids I decided to lazily over-engineer a cart out of wood, with two arms to attach it at the back where some of the rear suspension subframe bolts in, and just wedges between the front frame rails to give it some lateral stability. I got some annoyingly expensive M12 bolts with 1.25mm pitch long enough to be able to through some of mitre10's finest framing wood and test fitted them with the help of girlface: Turned on my granddad's old circular saw, put it down and used a hand saw instead, did some shitty drilling and screwing and measuring attempts, and after evolving the original plan a bunch I came out the other end with a cart! Three of the bolts even line up! It's a small cart and the footprint looks quite narrow but it's technically not far from where the jack stands would go anyway, and is quite sturdy. Most of the weight is in the back of the car too, so the cart is located quite far back. For the wheels I selected some nice big 100kg fellas with locks. The finest cheapest that mitre10 had to offer. I hear that the bigger the wheel the easier it is to move it around and the less susceptible it is to bumps. The weight capacity of 100kg per wheel or 400kg~ for the distributed load should be plenty, given that I can lift the front half by myself and the back half with a hand. So of course one breaks the first time it hit uneven concrete. This is also with me moving it by lifting the car from the front end, so there's even less weight on the wheel than normal. Nope, doesn't matter. As soon as it snagged on the crappy concrete while trying to rotate it crumpled faster than a hollow easter egg in the hands of a fat kid. Fortunately the mitre10 service desk guy didn't put up a fight and I got my money back. Then splurged on some smaller but 125kg wheels that looked and felt a lot sturdier. Non-locking but I was already paying significantly more for them. So that's that job sorted, and while I'm still trying to locate some new front frame rails the panelbois will at least be able to move it into their shop and get a start on it. I can sit in it and have girlface push me around, so I'd say we're probably over 70% done with the project now.
    3 points
  12. Started on the frame rails over the Christmas break. Ended up using 50x50x2.5mm SHS. Should be plenty strong enough. Especially considering that I can lift the whole rear of the car by hand, with the diff removed. Finally decided on how to do the bends. Was going to get them bent, but have heard horror stories about bending square tube. The mitre cuts turned out pretty good, and both rails are exactly the same. Also plated the existing crossmember. This is tied into the original front leaf spring mounts underneath.
    3 points
  13. pre cooling the intake doesn't do much at all. especially in romans case, since pretty much his whole intake is plastic. which will transfer very little heat. The air going into intake different story NOS goes against the whole NA tuning thing imo. may as well just jam a 150 shot on a stock echo - maybe someone should do this
    2 points
  14. IMO anything faster than 15 seconds needs a proper drag tyre otherwise you are wasting time with any performance mods if you can't use 100% of it to get down the track I've had a few sets of drag specific tyres even on mid-low 14 second cars and if nothing else it makes the car a lot more consistent which is very important if you want to get anywhere in DYO I've raced the VG on street tyres quite a few times, that doesn't have much power and its auto and even then it's a bit of an unknown if it's going to hook or spin
    2 points
  15. @JustHarry I usually go with rectangular box section 3mm plus wall thickness. I would avoid the riser you have to hold the hitch. I preferred a piece of 75x10 drilled and tapped with m10 threads and bolted with capped screws. I also avoid welding across the top of the drawbar to the front of the trailer deck as I have been told it leads to cracking. *how I have done them in the past.*
    2 points
  16. Failed wof inspection on some rust, front left shock knocking, brakes too soft and handbrake to improve. Had the privilege of using a mates hoist and his labour, he made a start on the rust while I sorted the brakes. New rear wheel cylinders courtesy of @bigfoot , also noticed some bent stuff inside the drum which explains why handbrake wouldn't self adjust. Note the bent over edge stopping handbrake from working properly. We straightened both items out and happy days. after removing the front strut It was apparent there was a spacer missing allowing the insert to move within the strut housing causing the noise so we made a spacer from some steel. Problem solved
    2 points
  17. So exhaust and a 50 wetshot of Nitrous and aim for a 12.9?
    2 points
  18. Next step in the puzzle was to sort out a clutch release system. I had a couple of options that could work. I could use the stock Subaru fork but it was not ideal for two reasons ; 1: It would need a the release bearing carrier adapting to take a larger diameter bearing that would suit the Honda pressure plate fingers. 2: Its pivot location, being a centre mounted fulcrum point, would require a slave cylinder that pushed it towards the front of the car. This is because originally the Leone the transmission came from uses a clutch cable. I'd being using a hydraulic slave and it would have to be mounted up high, over the engine. Probably clash with the underside of the parcel shelf and would definitely look ugly there. Option two was to use the Ford Mundano concentric slave cylinder I have had stashed away for ages, acquired with the Duratec engine I was going to fit into the Viva wagon many moons ago. This certainly seemed the most sensible option because it fitted into the location almost perfectly... The pipes even pop out through the Subaru release fork hole like it was made for it... But it was still going to require a little work. First off is that it has a flat bearing face, made to suit curved diaphragm spring ends. It was also too small in diameter to suit the fingers. So a lump of steel was plucked from the store... There was just enough room between the bearing face and the 'slidey hub' bit that the bearing hydraulics slide in and out on for me to machine a locating stub onto the bit of steel... With that being a perfect fitting locating point the other side was machined with a radialised face to suit the flat fingers. The end result looks like this.. This will be stuck in place onto the release bearing face with something like loctite 601. It cant go anywhere anyway. Next issue was fixing this whole unit in place and making sure its dead square to the input shaft centre line. Luckily the units bore was larger that the stub/shaft?* that the Subaru release bearing carrier slides on by about 2mm. It also so happened that when pushed on as far as it would go it allowed for just the right amount of movement of the release bearing, plus a bit to spare. So I machined a thin sleeve with a lip at one end to suit.. This I made a nice snug fit onto the stub/shaft thing and the Mundano assembly slides in place snug, thus making sure it all remains square. I assembled the lot together and checked it all with the transmission bolted in place. Looks good.. The initial throw of the release bearing will be adjusted at the pedal, which will now require me to either use the Mundano master cylinder (plastic..yuck) or machine/ sleeve my Imp one (actually the same as a landrover/most trailer brakes out there..) to suit. I'll look at that when I get to it. Next step is to bolt the assembly in place. The Leone box has splines cast in around the stub base... ..but luckily enough room between them to glue some blocks in place so I machined some alloy down to suit.. Because I knew the assembly was perfectly straight and in line I just needed to give enough clearance on the blocks to allow for some epoxy. I drilled and tapped the blocks to suit, mixed up some of my favourite JB weld and filled the chosen cavities then slide it back in place. Then let it set overnight.. The next day I tried the original Mundano rubber boot for the pipe exit. It almost fitted. I sliced 5mm out of its width and it was sorted. Not perfect looking but it works and cant be seen once the engine is in place anyway... Phew. Done. At this point I really did have a feeling like I had made it past the trickiest bits of the engine work required. But for some possible baffles around the oil pump pick up and maybe an anti surge plate (not that the Goldwing engine has any as stock) I think all the required mods to the engine are done. I felt like having a cold beer. So I did. Then pondered the next jobs to do. Which was to look at where I would run my cooling pipes and finalise the position of the oil filler tube.. In order to properly work through some routing ideas I had to plonk the heads back on. With them in place I might as well have some fun, bolt the transmission on and stand back with my beer and gaze at it all. I took some pics. I'm pretty bloody happy with it how it looks and I really did get a mojo boost looking at it sitting there as a complete unit waiting to go in... Its so neat and compact for a flat six.. Man I'm looking forward to having this setup in the back of my Imp! What's nice to think about is that while there's still a big load of work to do these next jobs will be super fun. I'm especially looking forward to making the ITB arrangement to suit and doing my best to create a really clean looking engine bay.
    2 points
  19. Last time we left off with the gearbox in place, full of oil and the axles in place. Thankfully the gearbox passed the white paper test with no leaks, which means I managed to seal it up correctly and all the new seals are holding oil. Unfortunately, the lower radiator hose was still AWOL; I had planned on waiting for that to arrive, but in the meantime, after work, I decided to fit the freshly rust treated and painted heater pipe and some of the coolant hoses in preparation for the hose to arrive. This did end up with me getting carried away and just sending it and installing the old coolant hose as it was in usable condition and wasn't leaking beforehand, and whacking the whole thing back together. New stainless lower pipe I had to replace this hose to the heater pipe as I found some quite deep cuts/wear in the original hose. It is originally a moulded hose to clear the gearbox and air intake, but some careful trimming and clamping had the generic hose in a good enough position. Starting to look like an engine again, and a huge milestone It had been a long time since I had seen the car without the engine support bar in the engine bay. All the intake and boost pipes were then reinstalled The cooling system was filled, bled and then it was time. Still up on the Quickjacks, with my Wife standing by to check the wheels were turning, I jumped in the car and started it up. Into first, clutch out. Wheels turn. Second. Third. Fourth. and gingerly into fifth since wheel speed was getting up there. All forward gears were doing what they should, and the clutch was actuating correctly. Clutch in, on the brakes, popped into reverse, and bam, the wheels go backwards even. I built a gearbox, and it even works With the wheels back on, and then off again to torque up the hub nuts (oops, that was lucky), and the wheels back on again, the car was lowered to the ground for the first time in a couple of months. Its maiden voyage was out onto the drive to turn the car around, warm the engine up and bleed the cooling system After the thermostat (hey, it has one now!) opened and the fans cycled, the car went back into the garage for the night. The next day, I got home from work and immediately checked the fluid levels and took the car out for a drive. I needed to make sure everything gearbox related was working as it should, before booking the car in for a WOF inspection. First impression of the work done is that the shifter is really good. It's direct, firm and has very little play. The clutch is nice and progressive with a good bite point, and despite being a slightly uprated clutch the feel is good and it's not heavy. The sticky shudder I had when engaging the old clutch is gone (thankfully, I was thinking the cable was sticky, but clearly not). The gearbox works really well. It's silent at idle in neutral, where it used to rumble noticeably beforehand. The synchros are working well with no crunching. There is a slight whine in second gear, but considering what the gearbox has gone through (or what's gone through the gearbox) I'm not surprised the gears didn't survive completely unscathed. It's a huge improvement. I haven't been able to give it a real good test since I don't want to push the car too hard until the clutch has had some time to bed in, and I have checked the rest of the car over a bit more, but the couple of times I came on boost in a corner showed that the diff pulled the car around the corner. The feeling of being pulled wheels first around the corner was quite pronounced, and I feel like I could push even harder into a corner and have the car pull it to the exit. The torque steer everyone comments on was almost non-existent. I say almost, just because if it was there I never noticed it. On boost it just tracks straight and true. I'm really happy with the work I have done, the gearbox is sublime to use. The turbo noises are addictive and hilarious too. So much whoosh. A quick stop to check I wasn't pouring fluids out gave me a chance to take some photos of the car that aren't on my drive, in my garage or broken down. Yes, the front corner splitters will make a comeback at some point (the steel inside them that mounts to the bumper is like a doily so I either need to fix these or find replacements), and yes the bonnet desperately needs paint. The car also happened to tick over 113,000km just where I stopped I have more or less doubled the KM I have covered since I got the car, and *touches wood* the car even made it home under its own power this time. You may (but probably didn't) also notice that the side repeater lamps on the front guard arent orange anymore. I didn't like the fact that all the other indicators on the car are clear but these weren't, so I bought a kit to replace them last time I ordered parts from Rimmers. The old lights were quite faded. They slide back or forward and then wiggle out The bulb on this side was covered in filth. It turns out there should be an O-ring on the bulb holder to seal it. I tried but couldn't find one that fitted, so will just deal with having to clean the light later. The new lights come with orange bulbs Which then twist-lock into the new light, and after a quick clean of the grot that lives behind the light, the new light clips in. So flashy Of course, I couldn't leave you without a video of the whooshy noises. Enjoy.
    2 points
  20. For the first time since... September... the car has moved under its own power again.
    2 points
  21. noticed this when editing video. worse than missing the odo roll over. 1019 runs.. And video of the above stuff
    2 points
  22. So taking what ive read above adding some compromise and a few hours of research I found a different version of the first turbo I saw. V Bands for almost everything no internal wastegate. As I'll fabricate all the manifolds and exhaust a v band setup will make that so much simpler. https://www.trademe.co.nz/3411434776 0.83 A/R Still roller bearing but this brand seem to have a pretty good reputation for been reliable, i won't be doing track days or burnouts to frequently so I think I might be ok. And the photo is of 2 on a buick v6....
    2 points
  23. Tonight's mission was mounting the caster bar brackets/ bumper irons. Got them all mounted and trial fitted the front 1/4 bumpers. Actually fitted up quite nicely so they can stay on. Also managed to get some satin black onto the front panel behind the grille.
    1 point
  24. hay man. I got if from autodec in Auckland. was about $320 delivered (that's just the carpet no underlay). I used them about a decade ago for an escort and it was shit ....but I thought I would try again and I'm very happy mate.....its a great fit
    1 point
  25. @d.p.n.s Where'd you get the carpet? happy with the fit? need to get some for my wagon.
    1 point
  26. To keep in mind for breakages my father in law has a workshop in havelock which is pretty central for the whole ride. Marrku and I will be staying there before the start and at end of day 1
    1 point
  27. @Romansounds like you need to get another Prius engine from the wreckers and build the bottom end with beefier rods and some other go fast mods (cleaning up casting marks etc etc) just don't add any speed holes Good point on the Nos dry shot, typically when I've seen/done Nos its always been when injectors are getting close to the limit on 4 cylinder turbo setups (2200cc injectors) in saying that these days dual injectors per cylinder is more common I forget this is N/A sometimes, effectively you've gotten double the factory horsepower which in most cases would be a bar of boost to achieve (general rule of thumb obviously) Didn't realize the cost of it in NZ was that nuts, its about $14 per 500g here (but can get cheaper options if buying in bulk etc) though the states is like $3.5usd a lb or $1.70usd a lb if you buy 60Lb at a time Though I guess if you work it out then at $14 a run its not that cheap as i'd expect you to use a lb per run and $140 per refill of a 10lb bottle isn't cheap Keen to see the exhaust gains tbh Id say what about pre intake C02 cooling but as your running ITB it wouldn't be that easy, dry ice on the intake manifold between runs? :p Still got sound deadening?
    1 point
  28. Full 90s/00s mini truck paint job plz
    1 point
  29. I dont recall those tyres dropping trap speed at low pressure. well not significantly anyway. 10psi and 8k launch should get it moving. need to run less in them than if it were a rwd 13.8 is pretty impressive, but should go at least 13.6 i recon
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. New exhaust for a 10 second car?
    1 point
  32. Planning on trying to get one job done every night... So last night a fitted up the front x-member.
    1 point
  33. Real estate sign underbody aero whilst your at it
    1 point
  34. Sooooo. There was an actual leak, but it wasn't the turbo feed, it was the new turbo drain where I had welded it into the sump. This is irritating as I was particularly careful when I did it, I MIG'd it then went over it with the TIG to be sure. Not sure enough I guess. I was prepping to drop the sump and have at it when that evil bastart @yoeddynz convinced me to try some JB weld, even if temporarily. He told me that most of his goldwing engine was actually JB weld, cunningly disguised as aluminium... So I went for it and much to my disappointment it actually worked and now there are no leaks. When it's time to do an oil change I will *probably* drop the sump and sort it then, but in the meantime I guess it will do. A pic of my shame....
    1 point
  35. No real progress pictures as such, so here's just a couple I liked. Rusty bits shall be gone soon and I'm excited to get to some meets and just enjoy the car.
    1 point
  36. Summer 20/21 - We didn't do a lot bar finishing body work and getting it all back in primer and painting the engine bay. We also put the motor in temporarily and painted all the front crossmember and suspension parts. Also started a new ITB manifold for it. Summer 21/22 - We did a final guide coat and block sand, then got it painted. Pretty happy considering we painted it all outside, over 3 days. It was probably too hot and too breezy making it a little orange peeley. Feels good to finally have it painted.
    1 point
  37. A good few days progress, hard work in a black shed with 29 degree days. Tunnel is all closed up again, biggest welding job I’ve done so plenty to learn. Finished off the two driveshaft hoops as well, front one was straight forward but the rear one needed a little more thought/work. Fitted crush tubes for the new gearbox mount. Have done more cleaning on the engine and painted the block too. Back to work tomorrow so progress will slow down again.
    1 point
  38. DRZ problem solved, put it back together (with the head/barrel off) put it on trademe, sold, guy picked it up and didn't even haggle on price. Mint. While he was picking it up, @Ash-he came and picked up the passola as well so 2 bikes gone in one morning Now I can concentrate my 2 wheeled efforts on this one. Have ordered a complete exhaust which should be here early Jan. A system for a CB900RR is a bolt on with a couple of easy mods, headers are slightly different and gets rid of the twin mufflers and goes to a conventional single side muff which will tidy the bum up a bit
    1 point
  39. Got a 'ss' stripe kit out of aussy, by first stripes company, hdt ss vk stripe kit, took a while to get here but when it did i wet sanded the quater with high grit sand paper, cut and polished the rest of the passenger side. Pack n saves finest palmolive dishwashing liquid was sprayed on both the car and decals as to line it up (a must otherwise it will stick in the wrong place and never come off) installed it as holden dealer team did back in the day, going off picture of genuine ss cars
    1 point
  40. Clean sheet wof, as it should since it was only complied 6 months ago. I have swapped back to the OG smaller carb for now, I hadn't made much progress with tuning the bigger carb so it was a bit gutless in comparison. I tried a few combos from the KDX jetting database (155ish main, 42 pilot) but it was flat up in the revs. A previous owner had removed the carb bowl overflow tube so I'll sort that first then try again nearer the end of summer. The wideband wasn't much help for anything other than idle, expansion chamber magic would have it reading all over the place, don't know if a different spot would give a better reading, some of the 2t snowmobile crowd have them working fine but I can't be bothered trying any further
    1 point
  41. Good things take time.... Bit of a mission getting it home with a failed condenser, a bit more fettling and I will call it good.
    1 point
  42. After what seemed like an infinity amount of hours doing some exploratory porting on my spare head, and getting comfortable with the various dremel tools and when best to use each shaped bit. I've decided I'm ready to do some porting on the proper head. One problem I needed to address first though. Has been that each time I have needed to get the valve springs fitted, the local engine shop has had to do it. And it's taken then weeks to get it done each time. Buying a generic valve compressor tool probably works fine, but I dont have any budget for that currently. So I did some measuring and printed a tool to work with a G clamp. Works good! I can get those son of a bitch tiny valve retainers in place by my self now. Time to pull things apart. Since I've done this all a few times now, it's pretty quick to get the head off. Quick inspection - No signs of detonation on the pistons, and the really nasty residue buildup from when I first got the motor isnt there anymore. The pistons look quite dark compared to before, not sure why. Perhaps just a bit of regular old carbon build up. Something funny I noticed while pulling things apart to get the head off. The alternator was only hanging on by the tensioner bolt. The main bracket had both of the bolts had come completely out. I'd noticed in the logs from the drags that the motor had been dropping battery voltage with more rpm, and it was worst in first gear. So it was obviously belt slip. I've bought some threaded rod so I'll wind some studs in and loctite them into the block. Then use some spring washers on the nuts. Hopefully that'll fix it. So progress on porting the actual head has been much faster than expected. Everything I've read about porting has said "Do one small part on one cylinder, then move to the others instead of doing 1 port all at once" I thought this would be massively tedious but it actually speeds things up a whole bunch. Because you get your technique good for that area then apply it 3x more. Then figure out how to do the next part. The main issue I need to avoid on this good head, is damaging the valve seat. I absolutely 100% want to avoid needing to get the seat remachined. Because of the time factor involved with getting someone to fix it. So I took 4x valves from my spare engine, and ground the faces down to be just about level with the valve seat. Then put these valves in place while I worked on each combustion chamber. This also made progress massively faster in this area, as I could get stuck in with a higher tool speed, without worrying about critical damage. I'm reasonably convinced that removing the lip around the seats in the combustion chamber, and the bowl area will be responsible for any/all improvements. Which is interesting because I'm pretty sure that most CNC porting jobs I've seen look like they're just hogging out the port from the port end. Rather than doing anything in the chamber. (wild assumption) I'm 50/50 on whether downsizing the injector boss will help much, seeing how it's a bit further up the port. However this is possibly laziness talking as it's quite time consuming. Will do it anyway while this is all apart. Here's some cross sections showing changes made in the chamber. Red is standard shape and green modified. Basically I gave up on trying to be stingy with material removal, and opted to do what I think will maximize flow at low lift for both intake and exhaust. Apart from the combustion chamber changes the exhaust side looks like it will definitely benefit from reshaping the roof at the transition of the machining to the casting in the bowl area, as it was quite gross. All that's left to do now is tidying up the ports from the port sides. Then spend a bit of time polishing the modified combustion chamber faces so there's hopefully no surfaces which will induce knock. Hopefully not too long and I'll have this all back together. Also good news, with Auckland travel restrictions lifting. I'm able to start getting my Hoist in place, in the shed. Once this is done, I will make a start on a better exhaust.
    1 point
  43. Leonie used her connections / google to source some solid carbonic anhydride: Strictly speaking we probably didn't need to remove the sound deadening, but it was already flaking off in some places, possibly had rust under it, and it'd just be weird blasting and repainting a whole car and not be bothered to get the deadening off. It wouldn't feel right. Like a silly billy I didn't get any good vids of us smashing it up. 1. Pour onto sound deadening 2. Listen to the snap crackle and pop of the deadening cracking and releasing from the metal. The cracks are cool to watch appear; sometimes there's enough force to launch bits of dry ice 3. Remove the ice 4. Take to it with fingers/hammer/scraper and it just crumbles off It was very cool to play with this stuff. For the deadening on the tunnel etc we just held some dry ice against it using a towel. Not hard to do, and very fun! Before: After: Happily there's almost no rust under the deadning except in a couple of places. The worst place is where I expected some surface rust to continue under the deadening, on the rear right side seat. But it's not bad. If I could weigh the deadening I would - it's pretty beefy. Somewhere between 15-25kg we think. Now the car is basically ready for blasting... some final zip ties are lurking here and there and I'd like to have a go at removing some seam sealer in places and scrub off the worst of the caked dirt. Here's a shot of the car just before we removed the deadening. We've got a date for blasting: 11 oct
    1 point
  44. Fuck yes- after something like 9 1/2 years its finally got some colour on it, just a home job in the garage, but it's not seen so thought I'd just hit it. Majorly stoked
    1 point
  45. Slow progress recently, but I have made a start on the sills. Now the outer is in place, i can make an inner & then button the outer up to the A pillar/rear arch
    1 point
  46. Got all the tyres on today. Pretty happy with the fitment. Some photos (Sorry about the uneven driveway) Need some SSR's asap
    1 point
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